• Creating the world's new chess capital

    From emf@21:1/5 to All on Thu May 12 23:47:27 2016
    BB News Magazine

    Creating the world's new chess capital http://www.bbc.com/news/magazine-36257742

    Checkmate Me in St Louis is broadcast on Crossing Continents on BBC
    Radio 4 at 11:00 on Thursday 12 May. You can catch up on the iPlayer.

    Listen to the story - 25'

    By David Edmonds BBC News, St Louis
    12 May 2016

    Chess is a global game, enjoyed by millions around the world. For much
    of the 20th Century the nucleus of chess was the former Soviet Union and Eastern Europe. But now a new chess capital of the world is emerging -
    the American Midwest city of St Louis.

    It's a beautiful spring evening and Chuck is sitting opposite me,
    outside the St Louis chess club. He's an African-American in late middle
    age who, during the day, runs a business selling meat. But this is where
    he comes after work. Between us is a beautiful inlaid chess board, on
    which stand elegant wood-carved pieces.

    I'm forcing Chuck's king back: "Check, check, check." Then his king
    finds a safe haven. "Damn," I say, "I've run out of checks."

    "No worries," he says, without pausing for breath and grabbing a pawn:
    "I'll take a credit card."

    Chess is a tricky game to start with, and it's not made any easier by
    having to think and talk at the same time. But in speed games - blitz
    games, as they're called - trash-talk is all part of the competition.
    The aim is to outwit your opponent verbally as well as on the board. And
    Chuck is the King of Trash.

    It's a skill shared by Maurice Ashley, the world's first black
    grandmaster, who grew up with chess and trash-talking in the parks of
    New York."The best trash-talkers blend themes on the board with themes
    from life, with politics, with music - they quote Shakespeare," he says.
    The real art, he says, is to put down your opponent - but in jest, not
    malice. "If you're actually insulting someone while trash-talking,
    you're probably not doing it right."

    Over the past couple of years, St Louis has been in the news for all the
    wrong reasons. In August 2014, a white policeman shot dead a black
    teenager, Michael Brown, in the northern suburb of Ferguson. The riots
    that followed received global coverage. Here was a story about one of
    the most violent cities in the country, a story of racial segregation.
    But chess is an unusual game in that it transcends race, in a way few
    things in America do. "Chess has exploded in the black communities
    here," says Ashley.

    The city's mayor, Francis Slay, wants to rebrand St Louis. If the world
    knows about St Louis for its black-white tension, he'd rather it was
    celebrated for its black and white squares. "It's a great cultural
    attraction. By itself it's not going to change our image. But it adds to
    the mix of things that make our city unique," he says.

    The US Congress has officially declared the city the chess capital of
    the nation. In central St Louis, the plush three-storey St Louis Chess
    Club and Scholastic Center now hosts elite grandmaster tournaments -
    during my visit, it was the American championship.

    Next door is the Kingside Diner, where instead of baseball on its giant
    TV screens, as in a traditional bar, you can follow chess commentary.
    Opposite the club is the Chess Hall of Fame, difficult to miss because
    at its entrance stands a 4.5m-high chess piece (a king). It offers
    classes, including "Toddler Tuesdays", where nought-to-three-year olds
    can use chess for, to quote the leaflet, "cognitive development".

    *Bullet chess*

    At the award ceremony for the US championship one of the world's best grandmasters played some fast and furious games of "bullet chess" -
    where a whole game is over in less than two minutes.

    [Video: Hikaru Nakamura playing bullet chess]

    Much of this has to do with one man. Rex Sinquefield, a grey-haired man
    in his early 70s, is sitting in the audience watching the US Chess Championship. He's in his shorts, wearing a baseball cap, and fuelling
    his concentration with glass after glass of Diet Coke. Sinquefield is a
    rich man, and he likes chess. He likes it so much he's put tens of
    millions of dollars into the game. No, he's not partially responsible
    for the renaissance in American chess, former US champion Yasser
    Seirawan corrects me - he's entirely responsible.

    The scale of Sinquefield's wealth is unknown. He claims, a bit
    implausibly, that he himself has no idea. Unlike other super-rich, he's
    not one to brag about his bank account, though it's widely assumed he's
    a billionaire. The money comes from a career in finance - he created
    some of the first index funds, funds that are cheap to run because they
    simply track the performance of a stock-market index.

    In Missouri, Rex is a deeply contentious figure, a looming giant of
    local politics -Tyrannosaurus Rex, he's been called. He pushes a radical free-market agenda and wants to abolish the state income tax. He's
    funded right-wing think tanks and backed selected candidates to the tune
    of $40m (£28m) - no-one in the state has ever given more. Missouri is
    the only state in the United States which has no limits to campaign
    donations, a freedom Sinquefield has exploited to the full. Laura
    Swinford of Progress Missouri, an advocacy organisation, believes his
    power in politics is pernicious: "I think we would all throw ticker-tape parades down the centre of the city if he would only focus on chess and
    his charitable donations," she says.

    But Sinquefield says his political donations are small change compared
    to the sums he has spent on chess and other charities.

    At the weekend, Sinquefield lives on a vast countryside estate. During
    the week, home is a handsome stone mansion, complete with an extensive
    art collection, just round the corner from the chess club. A solid but
    not expert player himself, he thinks about chess every day. He has about
    18 online games going on at any one time, with opponents from around the
    world (he uses a pseudonym, so they have no idea who they're playing).

    It's not easy to fathom what motivates his philanthropy - Sinquefield
    rarely speaks to the local press, and quickly deflects personal
    questions. But a clue is to be found a 20-minute drive from his city
    home - St Vincent's orphanage, where his mother sent him after his
    father died and where he spent much of his childhood. It was run by
    strict German nuns - the children slept in big dormitories, had to wash
    the dishes, clean the rooms and scrub the floors with steel wool. He's
    oddly nostalgic about his time there. "It was regimented, it taught me self-discipline," he says.

    He did well at school, getting 100% in many of his tests, though he
    still smarts at his 97% for spelling, when he was downgraded for writing "judgement" with an "e", the British way. He went on to do graduate work
    at the University of Chicago, where he was taught "rational economics",
    and the idea that individual investors can't outwit the markets. It was
    this that eventually inspired him to set up index funds - the foundation
    of his fortune.

    [Image caption A regular at the St Louis chess club, eight-year-old
    Arjun Puri is already beating his father]

    But just as he credits the orphanage with strengthening his character,
    so he believes in the transforming power of chess. "It carries over into
    all aspects of a child's academic life," he says.

    Around St Louis there is now an extraordinary clustering of chess
    activity. Three local universities offer chess scholarships, covering
    the tuition fees of top players. They include Webster University, which
    houses SPICE, the Susan Polgar Institute for Chess Excellence. Brainy
    Spice herself, Susan Polgar, was the first woman in history to earn the grandmaster title by successfully competing in chess tournaments. She's
    built a college team at Webster that would trounce almost every national
    chess team in the world.

    And chess is not just funded at university level. It's been introduced
    in after-school classes in more than 100 local schools, including all
    the schools in the Ferguson-Florissant School District, where the riots
    took place.

    At Vogt Elementary School in Ferguson, I meet the principal, Dr Leslie Thomas-Washington. She's wearing a vivid pink trouser suit, and in the
    morning greets each of her students with a hug. Vogt is part of a
    rigorous study designed to assess whether chess really can improve
    attendance and test scores.

    The full results won't be known for several years, but Washington says
    she's already noticed a difference among the children playing chess.
    "I've seen a dramatic change in grades. The children look at things with
    a more critical lens."

    Back at the club, the US Chess Championship concluded with victory for
    Fabiano Caruana - or Fabulous Fabi, as the commentators call him.

    This tournament attracted the strongest field in US chess history - the
    country now has three players in the top 10 in the world. They include
    Wesley So, who was raised in the Philippines, and Caruana, who, though
    born in the United States, later moved to Europe and played for Italy.
    Both players now compete under the Stars and Stripes. Caruana is
    sponsored by the St Louis Chess Club - his move back to the US is all
    part of the Sinquefield effect

    Outside the club, the chess tables - paid for with Sinquefield money -
    are all occupied. I await my turn and decide to take on Chuck in another
    blitz game. He talks incessantly. It's the sedate game of chess - with a
    loud running commentary. "I'm in your house," he says, as a rook enters
    my half of the board. "I didn't want to break in, but you left the back
    door open and I'm in your house." And with that, he captures another pawn.

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