I'm getting a start on fabbing a new exhaust for my truck (currently
down for an engine rebuild/hopup) . This morning I set my Lincoln
Weldpak 100 up to run a couple of beads on the header collector adapters
, and it wasn't at all pretty . The wire is .023 ER309L , shield gas is
argon at varying flow rates , electrode negative . First thing I noticed
is that this wire sure seems to burn a lot faster than ER70S6 , so I
bumped the feed speed up . Still ain't right , so I drop the amps a
notch (this machine has 4 settings for current) and it's a bit better
but still too hot . Drop it another notch and the wire isn't burning
back so fast but there's zero penetration and the bead is very narrow
and tall . Drop the wire feed and it's still too cold .
I'm totally lost here , I was hoping MIG welding the joints would be
fast and easy but ... I ended up using the TIG to flow the welds and got things looking less like pigeons crapped on my weld seam , but that has problems too . I have no means (yet) to purge the back side of welds in
tube . I did get the inside cleaned up with die grinders and flap wheels
, but that ain't going to work on a 6 or 7 foot long piece of exhaust
tube !
I sure could use some tips on MIG welding SS ! I hesitate to use
ER70S6 or flux core since the tubing is stainless , but it may come down
to that to get a decent weld .
"Snag" wrote in message news:so4bph$5e8$1@dont-email.me...
I'm getting a start on fabbing a new exhaust for my truck (currently
down for an engine rebuild/hopup) . This morning I set my Lincoln
Weldpak 100 up to run a couple of beads on the header collector adapters
, and it wasn't at all pretty . The wire is .023 ER309L , shield gas is
argon at varying flow rates , electrode negative . First thing I noticed
is that this wire sure seems to burn a lot faster than ER70S6 , so I
bumped the feed speed up . Still ain't right , so I drop the amps a
notch (this machine has 4 settings for current) and it's a bit better
but still too hot . Drop it another notch and the wire isn't burning
back so fast but there's zero penetration and the bead is very narrow
and tall . Drop the wire feed and it's still too cold .
I'm totally lost here , I was hoping MIG welding the joints would be
fast and easy but ... I ended up using the TIG to flow the welds and got things looking less like pigeons crapped on my weld seam , but that has problems too . I have no means (yet) to purge the back side of welds in
tube . I did get the inside cleaned up with die grinders and flap wheels
, but that ain't going to work on a 6 or 7 foot long piece of exhaust
tube !
I sure could use some tips on MIG welding SS ! I hesitate to use
ER70S6 or flux core since the tubing is stainless , but it may come down
to that to get a decent weld .
--------------
On the welding salesman's recommendation I used 312 rod to stick weld
1/16" sheet stainless into the bucket on the front end loader I made for
my Sears garden tractor. Although the weld area is discolored the
stitched beads were neat and strong enough to survive years of ramming
into snow, ice and occasionally rocks and trees. Road salt didn't seem
to affect the unshielded back side of the welds.
On 11/30/2021 6:28 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Snag" wrote in message news:so4bph$5e8$1@dont-email.me...
I'm getting a start on fabbing a new exhaust for my truck (currently
down for an engine rebuild/hopup) . This morning I set my Lincoln
Weldpak 100 up to run a couple of beads on the header collector adapters
, and it wasn't at all pretty . The wire is .023 ER309L , shield gas is
argon at varying flow rates , electrode negative . First thing I noticed
is that this wire sure seems to burn a lot faster than ER70S6 , so I
bumped the feed speed up . Still ain't right , so I drop the amps a
notch (this machine has 4 settings for current) and it's a bit better
but still too hot . Drop it another notch and the wire isn't burning
back so fast but there's zero penetration and the bead is very narrow
and tall . Drop the wire feed and it's still too cold .
I'm totally lost here , I was hoping MIG welding the joints would be
fast and easy but ... I ended up using the TIG to flow the welds and got
things looking less like pigeons crapped on my weld seam , but that has
problems too . I have no means (yet) to purge the back side of welds in
tube . I did get the inside cleaned up with die grinders and flap wheels
, but that ain't going to work on a 6 or 7 foot long piece of exhaust
tube !
I sure could use some tips on MIG welding SS ! I hesitate to use
ER70S6 or flux core since the tubing is stainless , but it may come down
to that to get a decent weld .
--------------
On the welding salesman's recommendation I used 312 rod to stick weld
1/16" sheet stainless into the bucket on the front end loader I made
for my Sears garden tractor. Although the weld area is discolored the
stitched beads were neat and strong enough to survive years of ramming
into snow, ice and occasionally rocks and trees. Road salt didn't seem
to affect the unshielded back side of the welds.
My thanks to all who responded . I think I'll just figure out a way
to shield the back side of my welds and TIG it all together . I'll have
the bed off the truck for an axle gearing change , that might make it
easier . Or I could just MIG it with ER70S2 ...
Now hold on thar ! I just discovered (browsing a car forum) a product called Solar Flux . Paint it on the back side of your weld area and it
forms a shield as it gets melted by the weld heat . Just exactly what I needed , considering the forums I was browsing are pretty emphatic about
NOT using ER70 to weld SS exhaust tube . The recommended filler is
ER308L , which I happen to have on hand . I was concerned about sugaring causing flow problems ... this has been an exhausting discussion !
On 11/30/2021 10:45 AM, Snag wrote:
On 11/30/2021 6:28 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Snag" wrote in message news:so4bph$5e8$1@dont-email.me...
I'm getting a start on fabbing a new exhaust for my truck (currently >>> down for an engine rebuild/hopup) . This morning I set my Lincoln
Weldpak 100 up to run a couple of beads on the header collector adapters >>> , and it wasn't at all pretty . The wire is .023 ER309L , shield gas is
argon at varying flow rates , electrode negative . First thing I noticed >>> is that this wire sure seems to burn a lot faster than ER70S6 , so I
bumped the feed speed up . Still ain't right , so I drop the amps a
notch (this machine has 4 settings for current) and it's a bit better
but still too hot . Drop it another notch and the wire isn't burning
back so fast but there's zero penetration and the bead is very narrow
and tall . Drop the wire feed and it's still too cold .
I'm totally lost here , I was hoping MIG welding the joints would be >>> fast and easy but ... I ended up using the TIG to flow the welds and got >>> things looking less like pigeons crapped on my weld seam , but that has
problems too . I have no means (yet) to purge the back side of welds in
tube . I did get the inside cleaned up with die grinders and flap wheels >>> , but that ain't going to work on a 6 or 7 foot long piece of exhaust
tube !
I sure could use some tips on MIG welding SS ! I hesitate to use
ER70S6 or flux core since the tubing is stainless , but it may come down >>> to that to get a decent weld .
--------------
On the welding salesman's recommendation I used 312 rod to stick weld
1/16" sheet stainless into the bucket on the front end loader I made
for my Sears garden tractor. Although the weld area is discolored the
stitched beads were neat and strong enough to survive years of
ramming into snow, ice and occasionally rocks and trees. Road salt
didn't seem to affect the unshielded back side of the welds.
My thanks to all who responded . I think I'll just figure out a way
to shield the back side of my welds and TIG it all together . I'll
have the bed off the truck for an axle gearing change , that might
make it easier . Or I could just MIG it with ER70S2 ...
Now hold on thar ! I just discovered (browsing a car forum) a
product called Solar Flux . Paint it on the back side of your weld
area and it forms a shield as it gets melted by the weld heat . Just
exactly what I needed , considering the forums I was browsing are
pretty emphatic about NOT using ER70 to weld SS exhaust tube . The
recommended filler is ER308L , which I happen to have on hand . I was
concerned about sugaring causing flow problems ... this has been an
exhausting discussion !
Paint on flux is a new one on me, but it makes perfect sense. I was
just going to comment that if you plug the ends with just a small weep
hole you really do not use that much gas in a piece of pipe the size you mention. The weep hole is two fold. To allow you to actually purge the air, and to make sure you do not pop your plugs out when the gas inside
the tube starts to expand from heat.
On 11/30/2021 11:17 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 11/30/2021 10:45 AM, Snag wrote:
On 11/30/2021 6:28 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Snag" wrote in message news:so4bph$5e8$1@dont-email.me...
I'm getting a start on fabbing a new exhaust for my truck (currently >>>> down for an engine rebuild/hopup) . This morning I set my Lincoln
Weldpak 100 up to run a couple of beads on the header collector
adapters
, and it wasn't at all pretty . The wire is .023 ER309L , shield gas is >>>> argon at varying flow rates , electrode negative . First thing I
noticed
is that this wire sure seems to burn a lot faster than ER70S6 , so I
bumped the feed speed up . Still ain't right , so I drop the amps a
notch (this machine has 4 settings for current) and it's a bit better
but still too hot . Drop it another notch and the wire isn't burning
back so fast but there's zero penetration and the bead is very narrow
and tall . Drop the wire feed and it's still too cold .
I'm totally lost here , I was hoping MIG welding the joints would be >>>> fast and easy but ... I ended up using the TIG to flow the welds and
got
things looking less like pigeons crapped on my weld seam , but that has >>>> problems too . I have no means (yet) to purge the back side of welds in >>>> tube . I did get the inside cleaned up with die grinders and flap
wheels
, but that ain't going to work on a 6 or 7 foot long piece of exhaust
tube !
I sure could use some tips on MIG welding SS ! I hesitate to use
ER70S6 or flux core since the tubing is stainless , but it may come
down
to that to get a decent weld .
--------------
On the welding salesman's recommendation I used 312 rod to stick
weld 1/16" sheet stainless into the bucket on the front end loader I
made for my Sears garden tractor. Although the weld area is
discolored the stitched beads were neat and strong enough to survive
years of ramming into snow, ice and occasionally rocks and trees.
Road salt didn't seem to affect the unshielded back side of the welds. >>>>
My thanks to all who responded . I think I'll just figure out a
way to shield the back side of my welds and TIG it all together .
I'll have the bed off the truck for an axle gearing change , that
might make it easier . Or I could just MIG it with ER70S2 ...
Now hold on thar ! I just discovered (browsing a car forum) a
product called Solar Flux . Paint it on the back side of your weld
area and it forms a shield as it gets melted by the weld heat . Just
exactly what I needed , considering the forums I was browsing are
pretty emphatic about NOT using ER70 to weld SS exhaust tube . The
recommended filler is ER308L , which I happen to have on hand . I was
concerned about sugaring causing flow problems ... this has been an
exhausting discussion !
Paint on flux is a new one on me, but it makes perfect sense. I was
just going to comment that if you plug the ends with just a small weep
hole you really do not use that much gas in a piece of pipe the size
you mention. The weep hole is two fold. To allow you to actually
purge the air, and to make sure you do not pop your plugs out when the
gas inside the tube starts to expand from heat.
Oh, yeah, and I have to ask. Is exhaust using an pipe expander so the joints can slide together totally out of vogue now?
On Mon, 29 Nov 2021 23:11:14 -0600, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
Tig it and back gas with dry ice - a lot easier than flowing welding
I'm getting a start on fabbing a new exhaust for my truck (currently
down for an engine rebuild/hopup) . This morning I set my Lincoln
Weldpak 100 up to run a couple of beads on the header collector adapters
, and it wasn't at all pretty . The wire is .023 ER309L , shield gas is
argon at varying flow rates , electrode negative . First thing I noticed
is that this wire sure seems to burn a lot faster than ER70S6 , so I
bumped the feed speed up . Still ain't right , so I drop the amps a
notch (this machine has 4 settings for current) and it's a bit better
but still too hot . Drop it another notch and the wire isn't burning
back so fast but there's zero penetration and the bead is very narrow
and tall . Drop the wire feed and it's still too cold .
I'm totally lost here , I was hoping MIG welding the joints would be
fast and easy but ... I ended up using the TIG to flow the welds and got
things looking less like pigeons crapped on my weld seam , but that has
problems too . I have no means (yet) to purge the back side of welds in
tube . I did get the inside cleaned up with die grinders and flap wheels
, but that ain't going to work on a 6 or 7 foot long piece of exhaust
tube !
I sure could use some tips on MIG welding SS ! I hesitate to use
ER70S6 or flux core since the tubing is stainless , but it may come down
to that to get a decent weld .
gas just tape up the "bottom" and throw in a few chunks of dry ice -
it will back purge perfectly and no clinkers inside the pipe.
I'm getting a start on fabbing a new exhaust for my truck (currentlyTig it and back gas with dry ice - a lot easier than flowing welding
down for an engine rebuild/hopup) . This morning I set my Lincoln
Weldpak 100 up to run a couple of beads on the header collector adapters
, and it wasn't at all pretty . The wire is .023 ER309L , shield gas is
argon at varying flow rates , electrode negative . First thing I noticed
is that this wire sure seems to burn a lot faster than ER70S6 , so I
bumped the feed speed up . Still ain't right , so I drop the amps a
notch (this machine has 4 settings for current) and it's a bit better
but still too hot . Drop it another notch and the wire isn't burning
back so fast but there's zero penetration and the bead is very narrow
and tall . Drop the wire feed and it's still too cold .
I'm totally lost here , I was hoping MIG welding the joints would be
fast and easy but ... I ended up using the TIG to flow the welds and got >things looking less like pigeons crapped on my weld seam , but that has >problems too . I have no means (yet) to purge the back side of welds in
tube . I did get the inside cleaned up with die grinders and flap wheels
, but that ain't going to work on a 6 or 7 foot long piece of exhaust
tube !
I sure could use some tips on MIG welding SS ! I hesitate to use
ER70S6 or flux core since the tubing is stainless , but it may come down
to that to get a decent weld .
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:so6avl$1nfn$1@gioia.aioe.org...
That is clever. I was not aware pure C02 was good for shielding
stainless.
-------------------
I wanted to suggest using CO2 if you have a tank of it for steel, but
a fairly brief Google search only returned advice not to, without
describing bad experiences.
On 11/30/2021 3:24 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Mon, 29 Nov 2021 23:11:14 -0600, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
Tig it and back gas with dry ice - a lot easier than flowing welding
I'm getting a start on fabbing a new exhaust for my truck (currently
down for an engine rebuild/hopup) . This morning I set my Lincoln
Weldpak 100 up to run a couple of beads on the header collector adapters >>> , and it wasn't at all pretty . The wire is .023 ER309L , shield gas is
argon at varying flow rates , electrode negative . First thing I noticed >>> is that this wire sure seems to burn a lot faster than ER70S6 , so I
bumped the feed speed up . Still ain't right , so I drop the amps a
notch (this machine has 4 settings for current) and it's a bit better
but still too hot . Drop it another notch and the wire isn't burning
back so fast but there's zero penetration and the bead is very narrow
and tall . Drop the wire feed and it's still too cold .
I'm totally lost here , I was hoping MIG welding the joints would be
fast and easy but ... I ended up using the TIG to flow the welds and got >>> things looking less like pigeons crapped on my weld seam , but that has
problems too . I have no means (yet) to purge the back side of welds in
tube . I did get the inside cleaned up with die grinders and flap wheels >>> , but that ain't going to work on a 6 or 7 foot long piece of exhaust
tube !
I sure could use some tips on MIG welding SS ! I hesitate to use
ER70S6 or flux core since the tubing is stainless , but it may come down >>> to that to get a decent weld .
gas just tape up the "bottom" and throw in a few chunks of dry ice -
it will back purge perfectly and no clinkers inside the pipe.
That is clever. I was not aware pure C02 was good for shielding stainless. 100% effective at eliminating oxygen from the hot joint. Maybee niotas good as tri-mix - ot ideally Argon but better than plain atmosphere
On Tue, 30 Nov 2021 16:09:42 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:
On 11/30/2021 3:24 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:100% effective at eliminating oxygen from the hot joint. Maybee niot
On Mon, 29 Nov 2021 23:11:14 -0600, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
Tig it and back gas with dry ice - a lot easier than flowing welding
I'm getting a start on fabbing a new exhaust for my truck (currently >>>> down for an engine rebuild/hopup) . This morning I set my Lincoln
Weldpak 100 up to run a couple of beads on the header collector adapters >>>> , and it wasn't at all pretty . The wire is .023 ER309L , shield gas is >>>> argon at varying flow rates , electrode negative . First thing I noticed >>>> is that this wire sure seems to burn a lot faster than ER70S6 , so I
bumped the feed speed up . Still ain't right , so I drop the amps a
notch (this machine has 4 settings for current) and it's a bit better
but still too hot . Drop it another notch and the wire isn't burning
back so fast but there's zero penetration and the bead is very narrow
and tall . Drop the wire feed and it's still too cold .
I'm totally lost here , I was hoping MIG welding the joints would be >>>> fast and easy but ... I ended up using the TIG to flow the welds and got >>>> things looking less like pigeons crapped on my weld seam , but that has >>>> problems too . I have no means (yet) to purge the back side of welds in >>>> tube . I did get the inside cleaned up with die grinders and flap wheels >>>> , but that ain't going to work on a 6 or 7 foot long piece of exhaust
tube !
I sure could use some tips on MIG welding SS ! I hesitate to use
ER70S6 or flux core since the tubing is stainless , but it may come down >>>> to that to get a decent weld .
gas just tape up the "bottom" and throw in a few chunks of dry ice -
it will back purge perfectly and no clinkers inside the pipe.
That is clever. I was not aware pure C02 was good for shielding stainless.
as good as tri-mix - ot ideally Argon but better than plain atmosphere
at stopping "sugaring". You can't use co2 as sheilding gas but I've
seen it used as a back purge. (Wouldn't use it on a Nuke installation,
but it's better than a mild steel MIG weld on exhaust pipes - and I;ve
seen a LOT of that!!!
On 11/30/2021 7:52 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Tue, 30 Nov 2021 16:09:42 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
wrote:
On 11/30/2021 3:24 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:100% effective at eliminating oxygen from the hot joint. Maybee niot
On Mon, 29 Nov 2021 23:11:14 -0600, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
Tig it and back gas with dry ice - a lot easier than flowing welding >>>> gas just tape up the "bottom" and throw in a few chunks of dry ice -
I'm getting a start on fabbing a new exhaust for my truck
(currently
down for an engine rebuild/hopup) . This morning I set my Lincoln
Weldpak 100 up to run a couple of beads on the header collector
adapters
, and it wasn't at all pretty . The wire is .023 ER309L , shield
gas is
argon at varying flow rates , electrode negative . First thing I
noticed
is that this wire sure seems to burn a lot faster than ER70S6 , so I >>>>> bumped the feed speed up . Still ain't right , so I drop the amps a
notch (this machine has 4 settings for current) and it's a bit better >>>>> but still too hot . Drop it another notch and the wire isn't burning >>>>> back so fast but there's zero penetration and the bead is very narrow >>>>> and tall . Drop the wire feed and it's still too cold .
I'm totally lost here , I was hoping MIG welding the joints
would be
fast and easy but ... I ended up using the TIG to flow the welds
and got
things looking less like pigeons crapped on my weld seam , but that
has
problems too . I have no means (yet) to purge the back side of
welds in
tube . I did get the inside cleaned up with die grinders and flap
wheels
, but that ain't going to work on a 6 or 7 foot long piece of exhaust >>>>> tube !
I sure could use some tips on MIG welding SS ! I hesitate to use >>>>> ER70S6 or flux core since the tubing is stainless , but it may come
down
to that to get a decent weld .
it will back purge perfectly and no clinkers inside the pipe.
That is clever. I was not aware pure C02 was good for shielding
stainless.
as good as tri-mix - ot ideally Argon but better than plain atmosphere
at stopping "sugaring". You can't use co2 as sheilding gas but I've
seen it used as a back purge. (Wouldn't use it on a Nuke installation,
but it's better than a mild steel MIG weld on exhaust pipes - and I;ve
seen a LOT of that!!!
I've seen lots of pictures of what it looks like down the road ...
which is why I want to do it with SS filler . Too bad the MIG experiment didn't work out for me , but I gots TIG and plenty of 308L filler . Also
got some of that Solar Flux coming - the dry ice idea is intriguing ,
but I'm not aware of any place near here to get some . I do have a
bottle of CO2 for the MIG , but wasn't sure if it was suitable for a
back purge .
Now I know !
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