replying to andy, Ray in NH wrote:
Try two (2) Walker 35337 Hardware Clamps, available at auto-parts stores. These are 3-1/2" diameter muffler clamps, with heavy-gauge steel "saddles" and
3/8" U-bolts. Drill matching holes through the back of the box and the saddles
of the clamps, then attach toe box to the saddles with machine screws and nuts.
--
for full context, visit https://www.polytechforum.com/metalworking/mounting-electrical-box-to-lally-column-195152-.htm
replying to andy, Ray in NH wrote:
Try two (2) Walker 35337 Hardware Clamps, available at auto-parts stores. These are 3-1/2" diameter muffler clamps, with heavy-gauge steel "saddles" and
3/8" U-bolts. Drill matching holes through the back of the box and the saddles
of the clamps, then attach toe box to the saddles with machine screws and nuts.
--
for full context, visit https://www.polytechforum.com/metalworking/mounting-electrical-box-to-lally-column-195152-.htm
"Michael Terrell" wrote in message news:9e7c250e-1f05-4fac-b4ac-4436b626c0b3n@googlegroups.com...
On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 9:18:06 PM UTC-5, Ray in NH wrote:
replying to andy, Ray in NH wrote:
Try two (2) Walker 35337 Hardware Clamps, available at auto-parts stores.
These are 3-1/2" diameter muffler clamps, with heavy-gauge steel
"saddles" and
3/8" U-bolts. Drill matching holes through the back of the box and the
saddles
of the clamps, then attach toe box to the saddles with machine screws
and nuts.
--
for full context, visit
https://www.polytechforum.com/metalworking/mounting-electrical-box-to-lally-column-195152-.htm
You replied to a 12 year old post.
For context, polytechforum.com is a crap web portal to Usenet. Even
Google groups works better.
----------------------
Nevertheless muffler clamps are very useful to attach things to round
tubes. I have a steel shelf rack braced to a lally column with a muffler clamp and 3/8-16 threaded rod, and I used them to temporarily attach
boat winches to the legs of tripods to hoist the 200 Lb gantry track
into position overhead. For that I bought 1/4" larger clamps and padded
under them with strips of 1/8" steel to avoid denting and weakening the
legs. So far the ones I bought all have had inch-sized threads.
"Michael Terrell" wrote in message news:9e7c250e-1f05-4fac-b4ac-4436b626c0b3n@googlegroups.com...
On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 9:18:06 PM UTC-5, Ray in NH wrote:
replying to andy, Ray in NH wrote:
Try two (2) Walker 35337 Hardware Clamps, available at auto-parts stores.
These are 3-1/2" diameter muffler clamps, with heavy-gauge steel
"saddles" and
3/8" U-bolts. Drill matching holes through the back of the box and the
saddles
of the clamps, then attach toe box to the saddles with machine screws and
nuts.
--
for full context, visit
https://www.polytechforum.com/metalworking/mounting-electrical-box-to-lally-column-195152-.htm
You replied to a 12 year old post.
For context, polytechforum.com is a crap web portal to Usenet. Even Google groups works better.
----------------------
Nevertheless muffler clamps are very useful to attach things to round
tubes. I have a steel shelf rack braced to a lally column with a muffler clamp and 3/8-16 threaded rod, and I used them to temporarily attach boat winches to the legs of tripods to hoist the 200 Lb gantry track into
position overhead. For that I bought 1/4" larger clamps and padded under
them with strips of 1/8" steel to avoid denting and weakening the legs. So far the ones I bought all have had inch-sized threads.
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:snb70b$9fi$1@gioia.aioe.org...
On 11/20/2021 4:55 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Michael Terrell" wrote in message
news:9e7c250e-1f05-4fac-b4ac-4436b626c0b3n@googlegroups.com...
On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 9:18:06 PM UTC-5, Ray in NH wrote:
replying to andy, Ray in NH wrote:
Try two (2) Walker 35337 Hardware Clamps, available at auto-parts
stores.
These are 3-1/2" diameter muffler clamps, with heavy-gauge steel
"saddles" and
3/8" U-bolts. Drill matching holes through the back of the box and
the saddles
of the clamps, then attach toe box to the saddles with machine screws
and nuts.
--
for full context, visit
https://www.polytechforum.com/metalworking/mounting-electrical-box-to-lally-column-195152-.htm
You replied to a 12 year old post.
For context, polytechforum.com is a crap web portal to Usenet. Even
Google groups works better.
----------------------
Nevertheless muffler clamps are very useful to attach things to round
tubes. I have a steel shelf rack braced to a lally column with a
muffler clamp and 3/8-16 threaded rod, and I used them to temporarily
attach boat winches to the legs of tripods to hoist the 200 Lb gantry
track into position overhead. For that I bought 1/4" larger clamps and
padded under them with strips of 1/8" steel to avoid denting and
weakening the legs. So far the ones I bought all have had inch-sized
threads.
And muffler clamps are cheap. I tend towards making a purpose built
round clamp/mount with one or two bolts (depending on application) out
of aluminum for jobs like this, but I recognize that not everybody can
do that or has piles of failed mold projects laying on the scrap cart
that they can salvage for the purpose. A muffler clamp the right size
can be implemented in mere minutes. Well... not counting the time to go
to the store and buy one, which could take longer than making something
in my shop.
----------------
I watch for common items that can be misused to solve unexpected design problems quickly, if not permanently. For instance EMT has the ID of Sch
40 pipe sizes while chain link fence posts and tubing has pipe OD. Some
sizes of EMT telescope into fence tubing.
The rubber bulb from a $5 siphon hose is part of the gas tank
pressurizer I made to prime the carbs of small engines that I ran dry
before storing.
I do like you and machine clamps for permanent outdoor use from scrap aluminum. In the 80's I traded something I couldn't use for 60 Lbs of
bar stock ends from a scrap dealer and haven't consumed more than half
of them yet. One such custom clamp supports the top end swivel ring for
my rotating antenna's guy lines.
I don't have CNC (or a DRO) and need to cut the round opening with a
boring head, so for me a trip to the store may be quicker.
"Michael Terrell" wrote in message news:9e7c250e-1f05-4fac...@googlegroups.com...
On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 9:18:06 PM UTC-5, Ray in NH wrote:
replying to andy, Ray in NH wrote:
Try two (2) Walker 35337 Hardware Clamps, available at auto-parts stores. These are 3-1/2" diameter muffler clamps, with heavy-gauge steel "saddles" and
3/8" U-bolts. Drill matching holes through the back of the box and the saddles
of the clamps, then attach toe box to the saddles with machine screws and nuts.
--
for full context, visit https://www.polytechforum.com/metalworking/mounting-electrical-box-to-lally-column-195152-.htm
You replied to a 12 year old post.
For context, polytechforum.com is a crap web portal to Usenet. Even Google groups works better.
----------------------
Nevertheless muffler clamps are very useful to attach things to round tubes. I have a steel shelf rack braced to a lally column with a muffler clamp and 3/8-16 threaded rod, and I used them to temporarily attach boat winches to the legs of tripods to hoist the 200 Lb gantry track into position overhead. For that I bought 1/4" larger clamps and padded under them with strips of 1/8" steel to avoid denting and weakening the legs. So far the ones I bought all have had inch-sized threads.
...
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:snbgoi$uc0$1@gioia.aioe.org...
On 11/20/2021 11:07 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
...
I think with a more basic shop I might make a clamp like that mostly on
the lathe. It could be done all on the lathe, but its easier I think to drill for the clamping bolts on the mill or even on a drill press.
-----------------------
I would too, if my lathe's tailstock was in good enough condition to
drive a hole saw to rough out the opening (and save the plug). The trade school kids used its spindle as an anvil horn. The dealer swapped in
another old spindle but it's not perfect either.
On 11/20/2021 2:45 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:snbgoi$uc0$1@gioia.aioe.org...
On 11/20/2021 11:07 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
...
I think with a more basic shop I might make a clamp like that mostly on
the lathe. It could be done all on the lathe, but its easier I think to
drill for the clamping bolts on the mill or even on a drill press.
-----------------------
I would too, if my lathe's tailstock was in good enough condition to
drive a hole saw to rough out the opening (and save the plug). The
trade school kids used its spindle as an anvil horn. The dealer
swapped in another old spindle but it's not perfect either.
Sounds like maybe a sleeve job would be a good project for that
tailstock.
While not ideal you could trepan out the slug if you are that gungho
to save it.
...The trade school kids used its spindle as an anvil horn. ...
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:sngrc6$1c6l$1@gioia.aioe.org...
On 11/20/2021 2:45 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
...The trade school kids used its spindle as an anvil horn. ...
Sounds like maybe a sleeve job would be a good project for that tailstock.
------------------
That's my plan, if the lathe ever rises high enough on the to-do list.
What would you sleeve it with?
On 11/22/2021 3:28 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:sngrc6$1c6l$1@gioia.aioe.org...
On 11/20/2021 2:45 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
...The trade school kids used its spindle as an anvil horn. ...
Sounds like maybe a sleeve job would be a good project for that
tailstock.
------------------
That's my plan, if the lathe ever rises high enough on the to-do
list. What would you sleeve it with?
I guess that would depend really. I think most tailstocks are just
cast iron, but I'm not sure I would feel very comfortable pressing in
a cast iron sleeve in cast iron. Maybe some sort of bronze bushing material. I've used hardened straight shank collet chucks spinning in
oilite bronze bushings before. I don't know what the longevity would
be. When I wear one out I'll let you know. I don't think the moving
wear would be significant with a material like that in that
application. The only issue might be side load forces. Since its
full supported if done right... Heck I don't know Jim. I'm making
this up as I go along. LOL.
I'd probably spend more time stressing over getting the size right and
on center. Drill fast, bore straight, ream to size except a reamer
that size might cost as much as a whole-nuther tail stock, and
recently I've found even name brand reamers vary a little more than I
might like.
On 11/22/2021 3:28 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:sngrc6$1c6l$1@gioia.aioe.org...
On 11/20/2021 2:45 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
...The trade school kids used its spindle as an anvil horn. ...
Sounds like maybe a sleeve job would be a good project for that
tailstock.
------------------
That's my plan, if the lathe ever rises high enough on the to-do list.
What would you sleeve it with?
I guess that would depend really. I think most tailstocks are just cast iron, but I'm not sure I would feel very comfortable pressing in a cast
iron sleeve in cast iron. Maybe some sort of bronze bushing material.
I've used hardened straight shank collet chucks spinning in oilite bronze bushings before. I don't know what the longevity would be. When I wear
one out I'll let you know. I don't think the moving wear would be significant with a material like that in that application. The only issue might be side load forces. Since its full supported if done right...
Heck I don't know Jim. I'm making this up as I go along. LOL.
I'd probably spend more time stressing over getting the size right and on center. Drill fast, bore straight, ream to size except a reamer that size might cost as much as a whole-nuther tail stock, and recently I've found
even name brand reamers vary a little more than I might like.
"David Billington" wrote in message news:snhe1v$75m$1@dont-email.me...
On 23/11/2021 00:11, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 11/22/2021 3:28 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:Maybe keep an eye on ebay for a spare tailstock if the lathe is common, that's what I did with my M300 as I wanted one to convert to a lever tailstock as I do jobs that require deep peck drilling or drilling of multiple items and the screw tailstock was getting tedious with all the winding and unwinding. One eventually came up at an acceptable price so
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:sngrc6$1c6l$1@gioia.aioe.org...
On 11/20/2021 2:45 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
...The trade school kids used its spindle as an anvil horn. ...
Sounds like maybe a sleeve job would be a good project for that
tailstock.
------------------
That's my plan, if the lathe ever rises high enough on the to-do
list. What would you sleeve it with?
I guess that would depend really. I think most tailstocks are just
cast iron, but I'm not sure I would feel very comfortable pressing in
a cast iron sleeve in cast iron. Maybe some sort of bronze bushing
material. I've used hardened straight shank collet chucks spinning in
oilite bronze bushings before. I don't know what the longevity would
be. When I wear one out I'll let you know. I don't think the moving
wear would be significant with a material like that in that
application. The only issue might be side load forces. Since its
full supported if done right... Heck I don't know Jim. I'm making
this up as I go along. LOL.
I'd probably spend more time stressing over getting the size right and
on center. Drill fast, bore straight, ream to size except a reamer
that size might cost as much as a whole-nuther tail stock, and
recently I've found even name brand reamers vary a little more than I
might like.
I bought it, turns out I knew the guy as he was a local engine machinist
I had used in the past. He had been unfortunate when moving the lathe
with a mate and a moving skate had shifted and wasn't noticed so when pushed it fell on its front and wrote the lathe off, he sold all the salvageable parts on ebay to my benefit with the tailstock.
------------------------
People collect and restore the South Bend Heavy 10 lathe so good parts
have become harder to find now than in the early 90's when I bought it,
and every useful spare part I saw. https://www.ebay.com/b/South-Bend-Metalworking-Equipment-Replacement-Parts/258169/bn_7116077721
I did a little necessary restoration and found that some pieces were individually hand-fitted and don't easily interchange. The tailstock
might be one of them, the one on mine may not be original and seems
slightly low, though wear and play make it difficult to measure. The
clamping plate under the tailstock was obviously a student project.
Except for the 70 position threading gearbox there's little difference between my 1965 lathe and the one described in the 1914 edition of "How
to Run a Lathe". In it the tumbler that drives the leadscrew is called a recent improvement.
"David Billington" wrote in message news:snhe1v$75m$1@dont-email.me...
On 23/11/2021 00:11, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 11/22/2021 3:28 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:Maybe keep an eye on ebay for a spare tailstock if the lathe is common, that's what I did with my M300 as I wanted one to convert to a lever tailstock as I do jobs that require deep peck drilling or drilling of multiple items and the screw tailstock was getting tedious with all the winding and unwinding. One eventually came up at an acceptable price so
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:sngrc6$1c6l$1@gioia.aioe.org...
On 11/20/2021 2:45 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
...The trade school kids used its spindle as an anvil horn. ...
Sounds like maybe a sleeve job would be a good project for that
tailstock.
------------------
That's my plan, if the lathe ever rises high enough on the to-do
list. What would you sleeve it with?
I guess that would depend really. I think most tailstocks are just
cast iron, but I'm not sure I would feel very comfortable pressing in
a cast iron sleeve in cast iron. Maybe some sort of bronze bushing
material. I've used hardened straight shank collet chucks spinning in
oilite bronze bushings before. I don't know what the longevity would
be. When I wear one out I'll let you know. I don't think the moving
wear would be significant with a material like that in that
application. The only issue might be side load forces. Since its
full supported if done right... Heck I don't know Jim. I'm making
this up as I go along. LOL.
I'd probably spend more time stressing over getting the size right
and on center. Drill fast, bore straight, ream to size except a
reamer that size might cost as much as a whole-nuther tail stock, and
recently I've found even name brand reamers vary a little more than I
might like.
I bought it, turns out I knew the guy as he was a local engine machinist
I had used in the past. He had been unfortunate when moving the lathe
with a mate and a moving skate had shifted and wasn't noticed so when pushed it fell on its front and wrote the lathe off, he sold all the salvageable parts on ebay to my benefit with the tailstock.
------------------------
People collect and restore the South Bend Heavy 10 lathe so good parts
have become harder to find now than in the early 90's when I bought
it, and every useful spare part I saw. https://www.ebay.com/b/South-Bend-Metalworking-Equipment-Replacement-Parts/258169/bn_7116077721
I did a little necessary restoration and found that some pieces were individually hand-fitted and don't easily interchange. The tailstock
might be one of them, the one on mine may not be original and seems
slightly low, though wear and play make it difficult to measure. The
clamping plate under the tailstock was obviously a student project.
Except for the 70 position threading gearbox there's little difference between my 1965 lathe and the one described in the 1914 edition of
"How to Run a Lathe". In it the tumbler that drives the leadscrew is
called a recent improvement.
"David Billington" wrote in message news:snhe1v$75m$1@dont-email.me...
On 23/11/2021 00:11, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 11/22/2021 3:28 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:Maybe keep an eye on ebay for a spare tailstock if the lathe is common, that's what I did with my M300 as I wanted one to convert to a lever tailstock as I do jobs that require deep peck drilling or drilling of multiple items and the screw tailstock was getting tedious with all the winding and unwinding. One eventually came up at an acceptable price so
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:sngrc6$1c6l$1@gioia.aioe.org...
On 11/20/2021 2:45 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
...The trade school kids used its spindle as an anvil horn. ...
Sounds like maybe a sleeve job would be a good project for that
tailstock.
------------------
That's my plan, if the lathe ever rises high enough on the to-do
list. What would you sleeve it with?
I guess that would depend really. I think most tailstocks are just
cast iron, but I'm not sure I would feel very comfortable pressing in
a cast iron sleeve in cast iron. Maybe some sort of bronze bushing
material. I've used hardened straight shank collet chucks spinning in
oilite bronze bushings before. I don't know what the longevity would
be. When I wear one out I'll let you know. I don't think the moving
wear would be significant with a material like that in that
application. The only issue might be side load forces. Since its
full supported if done right... Heck I don't know Jim. I'm making
this up as I go along. LOL.
I'd probably spend more time stressing over getting the size right and
on center. Drill fast, bore straight, ream to size except a reamer
that size might cost as much as a whole-nuther tail stock, and
recently I've found even name brand reamers vary a little more than I
might like.
I bought it, turns out I knew the guy as he was a local engine machinist
I had used in the past. He had been unfortunate when moving the lathe
with a mate and a moving skate had shifted and wasn't noticed so when pushed it fell on its front and wrote the lathe off, he sold all the salvageable parts on ebay to my benefit with the tailstock.
------------------------
People collect and restore the South Bend Heavy 10 lathe so good parts
have become harder to find now than in the early 90's when I bought it,
and every useful spare part I saw. https://www.ebay.com/b/South-Bend-Metalworking-Equipment-Replacement-Parts/258169/bn_7116077721
I did a little necessary restoration and found that some pieces were individually hand-fitted and don't easily interchange. The tailstock
might be one of them, the one on mine may not be original and seems
slightly low, though wear and play make it difficult to measure. The
clamping plate under the tailstock was obviously a student project.
Except for the 70 position threading gearbox there's little difference between my 1965 lathe and the one described in the 1914 edition of "How
to Run a Lathe". In it the tumbler that drives the leadscrew is called a recent improvement.
...As to the clamping plate on the bottom. It may be original. I haveThere is nothing special about any of them.
three lathes with similar tail stocks and plates for clamping in place.
generic plate with a hole tapped through it.
what I seek.
jsw
what I seek.
jsw
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:snlq7q$gq5$1@gioia.aioe.org...I have a rack of assorted tool boxes (yard sale dollar or less finds)
On 11/23/2021 4:43 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
It's like I have to prove I'm worthy before finding
what I seek.
jsw
I feel your pain. I've got multiples of tools for that reason. Last
time I needed a powder actuated pin driver I couldn't find mine. I knew
I had two of them One hammer actuated, and one trigger actuated. After >spending three days searching I gave up and bought a new one. I figured
at some point an ex-employee forgot to return mine. I hadn't even
opened the package when I found the one I already had. The new one is
still in the package some years later. LOL. I figure if I ever
misplace them again I can just threaten to open the package and they
will re-appear. Now I know all I need to do to find a tool or figure
out an easy way to fix one is buy its replacement.
---------------------
After buying and using the new one I look for a logical place to store it, >and more often than not that's where I find the missing one. Why couldn't I >have remembered to look there before?
"Gerry" wrote in message
news:1do0qgh6l7fq2oa5on3636i4agbs0r385o@4ax.com...
I have a rack of assorted tool boxes (yard sale dollar or less finds)
for items like pin driver, oscillating tool, etc. which keeps the tool together with its pins, bits, or spares; which does help somewhat.
Sons find this helpfull when they come to borrow as well.
------------------------
That's a good idea that can be hard to implement. I've found stackable plastic cases with latching lids for the manual , tools and spares for chainsaws and generators that may be used away from the house, but not
for air tools, especially those with whips for easier handling. They are
all in cardboard boxes with the hoses and packages of sanding belts and
disks protruding from the top. As my power tools evolved from NiCds to replacement NiMH batteries that are slightly larger I had to carve up
the fitted case's interior or remove it completely. For at-home use the
lack of restraint doesn't hurt them.
I've given up trying to separately package angle and die grinders since
their parts often interchange, especially since I machine spindle
adapters to misuse them such as making a compact right angle drill from
a grinder, or jack up my car with a drill.
Some of my small bench-mount tools are on rolling stands with invertable two-sided tops on trunnions, one tool on each side. In one case a single motor on a hinged base drives the table saw or belt sander that is on
top. A box or drawer below stores parts for both.
It might have been better to mount two unrelated tools on each stand so
I could have all the sheetmetal or woodworking tools on top
simultaneously instead of frequently swapping between two on one stand.
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:snr7ls$aqj$1@gioia.aioe.org...
My current dream project is a 56(ish) foot long monolithic steel top
bench along the back wall of my shop with bench top to floor drawers
with 6 foot long wings about every 8 feet with 6 foot deep drawers for
long stock and long tools. I have the steel for the top, and some of
the steel tube.
--------------------------
That's not much different from the benches in several labs I've worked
in. At Segway a rep from MSC came in periodically to make sure the
hardware drawers under the long bench in the machine shop remained fully stocked.
Long open benches tended to acquire a population of small bench-mount equipment that has to be far enough apart to not interfere with turning, cutting, grinding, drilling or tapping long stock, and soon the open
space isn't that long any more. That's where I got my preference for
mounting it in pairs on carts that could be temporarily clamped to the
edge of the bench, then stored compactly together.
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