• Re: What Do You Know About Annular Cutters?

    From David Billington@21:1/5 to Bob La Londe on Wed Oct 27 19:11:49 2021
    On 27/10/2021 18:58, Bob La Londe wrote:
    * What Do You Know About Annular Cutters?

    * Do you have some?

    * How do you like them?

    * Compared to what?

    I've got 15 of them in sizes from 10mm to 49mm and use them regularly in
    the lathe and mill for cutting holes. They produce accurate size holes,
    much better than the Starrett hole saws I have, and sometimes the cut
    slug is useful. In the BP mill I just hold them in a 3/4" collet, in the
    lathe I use a modified MT to MT adapter to take them although I
    subsequently found you could buy holders for them to suit various MT
    sizes. I think you can tell I like them.

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  • From Bob La Londe@21:1/5 to All on Wed Oct 27 10:58:38 2021
    * What Do You Know About Annular Cutters?

    * Do you have some?

    * How do you like them?

    * Compared to what?

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  • From Bob La Londe@21:1/5 to David Billington on Wed Oct 27 12:45:58 2021
    On 10/27/2021 11:11 AM, David Billington wrote:
    On 27/10/2021 18:58, Bob La Londe wrote:
    * What Do You Know About Annular Cutters?

    * Do you have some?

    * How do you like them?

    * Compared to what?

    I've got 15 of them in sizes from 10mm to 49mm and use them regularly in
    the lathe and mill for cutting holes. They produce accurate size holes,
    much better than the Starrett hole saws I have, and sometimes the cut
    slug is useful. In the BP mill I just hold them in a 3/4" collet, in the lathe I use a modified MT to MT adapter to take them although I
    subsequently found you could buy holders for them to suit various MT
    sizes. I think you can tell I like them.



    I do more machining (mostly CNC) than fabrication, but recently in a fabrication project I had to punch 4 1" holes in 1/4 wall tube, and a 1"
    hole in a piece of 3/8 flat bar. I smoked a decent Lennox bi-metal hole
    saw, and drilled the 5th hole with Silver and Deming bit on the mill.
    It got me to thinking about annular cutters, and yes that the slug might
    be usable had not escaped me. If nothing else so I could give away bags
    of slugs. LOL.

    FYI: The S&D bit (with a web diameter pilot) cut its hole as fast or
    faster than the hole saw, and it doesn't even look like it needs to be sharpened. Ok, it is a 5HP mill and I put it in back gear.

    Thanks for the feedback. I'm seriously considering adding a set or two
    now.



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  • From David Billington@21:1/5 to Bob La Londe on Wed Oct 27 21:03:52 2021
    On 27/10/2021 20:45, Bob La Londe wrote:
    On 10/27/2021 11:11 AM, David Billington wrote:
    On 27/10/2021 18:58, Bob La Londe wrote:
    * What Do You Know About Annular Cutters?

    * Do you have some?

    * How do you like them?

    * Compared to what?

    I've got 15 of them in sizes from 10mm to 49mm and use them regularly
    in the lathe and mill for cutting holes. They produce accurate size
    holes, much better than the Starrett hole saws I have, and sometimes
    the cut slug is useful. In the BP mill I just hold them in a 3/4"
    collet, in the lathe I use a modified MT to MT adapter to take them
    although I subsequently found you could buy holders for them to suit
    various MT sizes. I think you can tell I like them.



    I do more machining (mostly CNC) than fabrication, but recently in a fabrication project I had to punch 4 1" holes in 1/4 wall tube, and a
    1" hole in a piece of 3/8 flat bar.  I smoked a decent Lennox bi-metal
    hole saw, and drilled the 5th hole with  Silver and Deming bit on the
    mill. It got me to thinking about annular cutters, and yes that the
    slug might be usable had not escaped me.  If nothing else so I could
    give away bags of slugs.  LOL.

    FYI:  The S&D bit (with a web diameter pilot) cut its hole as fast or
    faster than the hole saw, and it doesn't even look like it needs to be sharpened.  Ok, it is a 5HP mill and I put it in back gear.

    Thanks for the feedback.  I'm seriously considering adding a set or
    two now.



    I forgot to mention that they come in 2 types. Most if not all the ones
    I have will only cut through a single thickness of material, I presume
    this is due to the slug having a thin flange the size of the hole which
    would spin an any material underneath preventing further cutting. The
    other type is obviously ground differently so they can cut through
    multiple material layers, I presume producing a cylindrical slug without
    the flange.

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  • From David Billington@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Wed Oct 27 23:53:27 2021
    On 27/10/2021 23:23, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "David Billington"  wrote in message news:slc4p6$kou$1@dont-email.me...

    On 27/10/2021 18:58, Bob La Londe wrote:
    * What Do You Know About Annular Cutters?

    * Do you have some?

    * How do you like them?

    * Compared to what?

    I've got 15 of them in sizes from 10mm to 49mm and use them regularly in
    the lathe and mill for cutting holes. They produce accurate size holes,
    much better than the Starrett hole saws I have, and sometimes the cut
    slug is useful. In the BP mill I just hold them in a 3/4" collet, in the lathe I use a modified MT to MT adapter to take them although I
    subsequently found you could buy holders for them to suit various MT
    sizes. I think you can tell I like them.

    ----------------------

    I have a small Clausing mill in a crowded basement shop, so I usually
    cut and drill structural steel such as the gantry track outdoors. I
    learned to locate, drill and tap holes in steel fairly accurately with
    hand drills when building large custom machinery. My 16' gantry track assembly has about two dozen 3/8" (0.370" shank) bolts in 3/8" drilled
    holes. Most can be started by hand.

    Do you think annular cutters would work hand-held, or in a Portalign
    drill guide which isn't all that much steadier?

    I save thicker hole saw cutouts to make bushings, spacers, drilling
    guides etc on the lathe.

    I think if I was to try it hand held I would put the annular cutter in a pre-drilled hole in some plate clamped in place as a support guide, the Portalign may be OK as is and should hold it square to the plate. Once
    the cut is started it seems to be self supported/guided by the hole and
    the centre stub soon to become the slug. I did ask a company selling
    them if they were OK to use in a mill but got a non committal answer as
    I expect it was out of their comfort zone in this age of liability. I've
    used them for cutting material square on, at angle, cutting tubing,
    notching ends of round bar, even cutting semi-circles out of the edge of
    plate. I've had no issues so far but if doing an unbalanced cut I'll
    take it easy at first until the cut is established just to be on the
    safe side.

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  • From Jim Wilkins@21:1/5 to Bob La Londe on Wed Oct 27 18:23:14 2021
    "David Billington" wrote in message news:slc4p6$kou$1@dont-email.me...

    On 27/10/2021 18:58, Bob La Londe wrote:
    * What Do You Know About Annular Cutters?

    * Do you have some?

    * How do you like them?

    * Compared to what?

    I've got 15 of them in sizes from 10mm to 49mm and use them regularly in
    the lathe and mill for cutting holes. They produce accurate size holes,
    much better than the Starrett hole saws I have, and sometimes the cut
    slug is useful. In the BP mill I just hold them in a 3/4" collet, in the
    lathe I use a modified MT to MT adapter to take them although I
    subsequently found you could buy holders for them to suit various MT
    sizes. I think you can tell I like them.

    ----------------------

    I have a small Clausing mill in a crowded basement shop, so I usually cut
    and drill structural steel such as the gantry track outdoors. I learned to locate, drill and tap holes in steel fairly accurately with hand drills when building large custom machinery. My 16' gantry track assembly has about two dozen 3/8" (0.370" shank) bolts in 3/8" drilled holes. Most can be started
    by hand.

    Do you think annular cutters would work hand-held, or in a Portalign drill guide which isn't all that much steadier?

    I save thicker hole saw cutouts to make bushings, spacers, drilling guides
    etc on the lathe.

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  • From Jim Wilkins@21:1/5 to All on Thu Oct 28 08:06:33 2021
    "David Billington" wrote in message news:slcl97$7vi$1@dont-email.me...

    I think if I was to try it hand held I would put the annular cutter in a pre-drilled hole in some plate clamped in place as a support guide, the Portalign may be OK as is and should hold it square to the plate. Once
    the cut is started it seems to be self supported/guided by the hole and
    the centre stub soon to become the slug. I did ask a company selling
    them if they were OK to use in a mill but got a non committal answer as
    I expect it was out of their comfort zone in this age of liability. I've
    used them for cutting material square on, at angle, cutting tubing,
    notching ends of round bar, even cutting semi-circles out of the edge of
    plate. I've had no issues so far but if doing an unbalanced cut I'll
    take it easy at first until the cut is established just to be on the
    safe side.

    ---------------------

    Thanks, I'll look for one to test. The support guide with the pre-cut hole could be done on the mill. Mild steel drill guides usually last long enough
    for the few holes in my one-off home projects and when worn can be recycled
    to a larger pilot drill size. Much of my work is too large for the mill and
    has to be match-drilled to a guide or another part. I wouldn't design for production that way but it's fine for making one unit.

    This is a good tool for punching the center of a large hole into a piece clamped underneath: https://www.fowlerprecision.com/Products/Punches/Fowler-1-4-11-16-Universal-Transfer-Punch-52-482-002-0.html
    The spring-loaded outer sleeve slides forward against the work to hold the punch square.

    I've used hole saws to fish-mouth tubing for practice welding clusters, and
    the surface finish was good enough for welding but not much else.

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