"Snag" wrote in message news:uic36j$mo71$
1@dont-email.me...
A friend had a wider HF unit , I was less than impressed . Might have been
a lemon ...
I have the 30" Central Machinery model, with some Dayton replacement parts
the previous owner tried before giving up on it. The Dayton manual gives the adjustment procedures but like welding bandsaw blades, having someone show
and correct you would be better.
https://www.grainger.com/ec/pdf/13W869_1.pdf
With care and attention lemonade is possible. Mine has rolled stainless into stovepipe. It struggles with its rated maximum thickness but works
reasonably well with thinner stock, such as 0.050" 5052. It's been happy
with bending 22 ga galvy for some under car rust repair, though I cut it
with an 8" Enco scissors shear that should be less trouble to sharpen. I
formed the radii by reversing the die and pressing the proper size of rod
stock into the sheet with its flat edge. Along with the HF spotwelder it's
let me copy some difficult 3D curved shapes such as the intersection with
the inner fender well.
Before I bought it I had a Pexto shear and a finger brake available at work, plus a 24" "Triok" model of the 3-in-1 that was built properly in Taiwan. If
I had the space I'd own US versions of the separate machines, but I don't except for a Whitney corner notcher and have learned to manage with the CM, which will do almost as much, just not as easily. Adjustments are fussy and don't hold for long, especially on max stock. It helped to have learned how
to adjust the Pexto to cut paper. The CM was definitely an assembled kit
that needed to be cleaned up to work properly. Sheet metal work can be
tricky with a learning curve even with good equipment, it was part of my machine design apprenticeship plus I learned a lot of it in 7th grade
drafting class. Save the scrap for practice pieces, such as bend allowances.
--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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