>>cross-posted<<
Today I scored a muzzle loader at a yard sale for a measly 15 bucks . Great deal , right ? Well , maybe . I got looking at the bore a bit ago
and there is some pretty heavy rust in there - much more than I expected
from the condition of the outside .
I believe the 2 top contenders for derusting are phosphoric acid and Evaporust . I'm wondering which will be best in this situation . I
intend to cast some lead laps to polish the bore if needed , but I won't
know the true condition until the rust is gone . And the barrel may not
be salvageable ...
The plan is to pull the breech plug and strip the barrel , stick it inside a piece of PVC of the proper size and fill the pipe with solution
. Pumping a bore brush in the barrel to circulate fresh solution will be
done periodically .
So kids , which shall it be ?
>>cross-posted<<
Today I scored a muzzle loader at a yard sale for a measly 15 bucks .
Great deal , right ? Well , maybe . I got looking at the bore a bit ago
and there is some pretty heavy rust in there - much more than I expected
from the condition of the outside .
I believe the 2 top contenders for derusting are phosphoric acid and Evaporust . I'm wondering which will be best in this situation . I
intend to cast some lead laps to polish the bore if needed , but I won't
know the true condition until the rust is gone . And the barrel may not
be salvageable ...
The plan is to pull the breech plug and strip the barrel , stick it
inside a piece of PVC of the proper size and fill the pipe with solution
. Pumping a bore brush in the barrel to circulate fresh solution will be
done periodically .
So kids , which shall it be ?
On 10/8/2021 4:25 PM, Snag wrote:
>>cross-posted<<
Today I scored a muzzle loader at a yard sale for a measly 15 bucks
. Great deal , right ? Well , maybe . I got looking at the bore a bit
ago and there is some pretty heavy rust in there - much more than I
expected from the condition of the outside .
I believe the 2 top contenders for derusting are phosphoric acid
and Evaporust . I'm wondering which will be best in this situation . I
intend to cast some lead laps to polish the bore if needed , but I
won't know the true condition until the rust is gone . And the barrel
may not be salvageable ...
The plan is to pull the breech plug and strip the barrel , stick it
inside a piece of PVC of the proper size and fill the pipe with
solution . Pumping a bore brush in the barrel to circulate fresh
solution will be done periodically .
So kids , which shall it be ?
I've used EvaporRust and its "okay." It neutralizes most rust, but in
the case of a muzzle loader bore I'd probably power a brass brush
through at several times, and then take a look at what's left. The
biggest issue would be if the muzzle is eroded. The crown and muzzle
are as important to accuracy as the rifling. Honestly some pretty bad rifling can still spin stabilize the bullet, but the muzzle needs to be uniform. Often if the crown is messed up they can be recrowned.
I've shot BP since my mid teens. Maybe 40 years. Not an expert... well except at doing things wrong.
I believe the 2 top contenders for derusting are phosphoric acid and Evaporust . I'm wondering which will be best in this situationCitric acid is great for heavier derusting. The converted iron citrate
On 9/10/21 10:25 am, Snag wrote:
I believe the 2 top contenders for derusting are phosphoric acidCitric acid is great for heavier derusting. The converted iron citrate
and Evaporust . I'm wondering which will be best in this situation
is easier to remove from the surface than iron phosphate. Phosphoric
acid is better for light rust when you intend to paint over it
afterwards, as the iron phosphate is stable and won't loosen.
On 9/10/21 10:25 am, Snag wrote:
I believe the 2 top contenders for derusting are phosphoric acidCitric acid is great for heavier derusting. The converted iron citrate
and Evaporust . I'm wondering which will be best in this situation
is easier to remove from the surface than iron phosphate. Phosphoric
acid is better for light rust when you intend to paint over it
afterwards, as the iron phosphate is stable and won't loosen.
"Snag" wrote in message news:sjr5it$hmk$1@dont-email.me...
On 10/8/2021 11:14 PM, Clifford Heath wrote:
On 9/10/21 10:25 am, Snag wrote:
I believe the 2 top contenders for derusting are phosphoric acidCitric acid is great for heavier derusting. The converted iron citrate
and Evaporust . I'm wondering which will be best in this situation
is easier to remove from the surface than iron phosphate. Phosphoric
acid is better for light rust when you intend to paint over it
afterwards, as the iron phosphate is stable and won't loosen.
I think we have a bottle of powdered CA on the shelf ... we use it
when we can tomatoes !
Snag
Let's Go Brandon !
--------------------------
How about electrolytic derusting??
cross-posted<<
Today I scored a muzzle loader at a yard sale for a measly 15 bucks .
Great deal , right ? Well , maybe . I got looking at the bore a bit ago
and there is some pretty heavy rust in there - much more than I expected
from the condition of the outside .
I believe the 2 top contenders for derusting are phosphoric acid and Evaporust . I'm wondering which will be best in this situation . I
intend to cast some lead laps to polish the bore if needed , but I won't
know the true condition until the rust is gone . And the barrel may not
be salvageable ...
The plan is to pull the breech plug and strip the barrel , stick it
inside a piece of PVC of the proper size and fill the pipe with solution
. Pumping a bore brush in the barrel to circulate fresh solution will be
done periodically .
So kids , which shall it be ?
--
Snag
Race only matters to racists ...
cross-posted<<
Today I scored a muzzle loader at a yard sale for a measly 15 bucks .
Great deal , right ? Well , maybe . I got looking at the bore a bit ago
and there is some pretty heavy rust in there - much more than I expected
from the condition of the outside .
I believe the 2 top contenders for derusting are phosphoric acid and Evaporust . I'm wondering which will be best in this situation . I
intend to cast some lead laps to polish the bore if needed , but I won't
know the true condition until the rust is gone . And the barrel may not
be salvageable ...
The plan is to pull the breech plug and strip the barrel , stick it
inside a piece of PVC of the proper size and fill the pipe with solution
. Pumping a bore brush in the barrel to circulate fresh solution will be
done periodically .
So kids , which shall it be ?
--
Snag
Race only matters to racists ...
How about electrolytic derusting??
"Snag" wrote in message news:sjs25t$j13$1@dont-email.me...
On 10/9/2021 6:30 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
How about electrolytic derusting??
I'm not sure electrolytic will work inside that confined space , not
much circulation of the solution .
------------
I asked to see if anyone had obtained good results. I would expect
difficulty sealing the ends into a circulating system and insulating a central iron wire. Maybe a spiral of string around it would be enough? I bought Flex paste to make custom rubber parts such as odd sized tubing adapters and antiskid feet but wasn't impressed with its low tear
strength. Perhaps you could turn tubing to barrel adapters from wood and
line them with Flex or liquid electrical tape.
Today I scored a muzzle loader at a yard sale for a measly 15 bucks .
Great deal , right ? Well , maybe . I got looking at the bore a bit ago
and there is some pretty heavy rust in there - much more than I expected
from the condition of the outside .
I believe the 2 top contenders for derusting are phosphoric acid and Evaporust . I'm wondering which will be best in this situation.
The plan is to pull the breech plug and strip the barrel , stick it
inside a piece of PVC of the proper size and fill the pipe with solution.
Pumping a bore brush in the barrel to circulate fresh solution will be
done periodically .
"Snag" wrote in message news:sjs25t$j13$1@dont-email.me...
On 10/9/2021 6:30 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
How about electrolytic derusting??
I'm not sure electrolytic will work inside that confined space , not
much circulation of the solution .
------------
I asked to see if anyone had obtained good results. I would expect
difficulty sealing the ends into a circulating system and insulating a central iron wire. Maybe a spiral of string around it would be enough? I bought Flex paste to make custom rubber parts such as odd sized tubing adapters and antiskid feet but wasn't impressed with its low tear
strength. Perhaps you could turn tubing to barrel adapters from wood and
line them with Flex or liquid electrical tape.
"Snag" wrote in message news:sjs25t$j13$1@dont-email.me...
On 10/9/2021 6:30 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
How about electrolytic derusting??
I'm not sure electrolytic will work inside that confined space , not
much circulation of the solution .
------------
I asked to see if anyone had obtained good results. I would expect
difficulty sealing the ends into a circulating system and insulating a central iron wire. Maybe a spiral of string around it would be enough? I bought Flex paste to make custom rubber parts such as odd sized tubing adapters and antiskid feet but wasn't impressed with its low tear
strength. Perhaps you could turn tubing to barrel adapters from wood and
line them with Flex or liquid electrical tape.
"wws" wrote in message news:afe29c65-03ef-451c-8c7d-4c59c9696c16n@googlegroups.com...
On Friday, October 8, 2021 at 6:25:54 PM UTC-5, Snag wrote:
cross-posted<<
Today I scored a muzzle loader at a yard sale for a measly 15 bucks .
Great deal , right ? Well , maybe . I got looking at the bore a bit ago
and there is some pretty heavy rust in there - much more than I expected
from the condition of the outside .
I believe the 2 top contenders for derusting are phosphoric acid and
Evaporust . I'm wondering which will be best in this situation . I
intend to cast some lead laps to polish the bore if needed , but I won't
know the true condition until the rust is gone . And the barrel may not
be salvageable ...
The plan is to pull the breech plug and strip the barrel , stick it
inside a piece of PVC of the proper size and fill the pipe with solution
. Pumping a bore brush in the barrel to circulate fresh solution will be
done periodically .
So kids , which shall it be ?
--
Snag
Race only matters to racists ...
One not mentioned, Oxalic acid... https://azrust.com/oxalic-acid-for-rust-removal/
-----------------------
https://www.woodreview.com.au/how-to/removing-rust
Be careful, oxalic acid is toxic.
On 10/9/2021 11:37 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Snag" wrote in message news:sjs25t$j13$1@dont-email.me...
On 10/9/2021 6:30 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
How about electrolytic derusting??
I'm not sure electrolytic will work inside that confined space , not
much circulation of the solution .
------------
I asked to see if anyone had obtained good results. I would expect
difficulty sealing the ends into a circulating system and insulating a
central iron wire. Maybe a spiral of string around it would be enough?
I bought Flex paste to make custom rubber parts such as odd sized
tubing adapters and antiskid feet but wasn't impressed with its low
tear strength. Perhaps you could turn tubing to barrel adapters from
wood and line them with Flex or liquid electrical tape.
Slotted sleeves over the ends of the barrel , plugs in those made of
HDPE drilled to hold a TIG electrode centered in the barrel . Suspend in
a PVC pipe full of electrolyte with an aquarium pump air stone
alongside the barrel to set up circulation . We've been discussing this
over at the Logan Lathe email list .
On 10/8/2021 4:25 PM, Snag wrote:
?? >>cross-posted<<
??Today I scored a muzzle loader at a yard sale for a measly 15 bucks .
Great deal , right ? Well , maybe . I got looking at the bore a bit ago
and there is some pretty heavy rust in there - much more than I expected
from the condition of the outside .
?? I believe the 2 top contenders for derusting are phosphoric acid and
Evaporust . I'm wondering which will be best in this situation . I
intend to cast some lead laps to polish the bore if needed , but I won't
know the true condition until the rust is gone . And the barrel may not
be salvageable ...
?? The plan is to pull the breech plug and strip the barrel , stick it
inside a piece of PVC of the proper size and fill the pipe with solution
. Pumping a bore brush in the barrel to circulate fresh solution will be
done periodically .
?? So kids , which shall it be ?
I've used EvaporRust and its "okay." It neutralizes most rust, but in
I asked to see if anyone had obtained good results. I would expect
difficulty sealing the ends into a circulating system and insulating a central iron wire. Maybe a spiral of string around it would be enough? I bought Flex paste to make custom rubber parts such as odd sized tubing adapters and antiskid feet but wasn't impressed with its low tear
strength. Perhaps you could turn tubing to barrel adapters from wood and
line them with Flex or liquid electrical tape.
"Snag" wrote in message news:sjt190$gho$1@dont-email.me...
On 10/9/2021 11:37 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
I asked to see if anyone had obtained good results. I would expect
difficulty sealing the ends into a circulating system and insulating a
central iron wire. Maybe a spiral of string around it would be enough?
I bought Flex paste to make custom rubber parts such as odd sized
tubing adapters and antiskid feet but wasn't impressed with its low
tear strength. Perhaps you could turn tubing to barrel adapters from
wood and line them with Flex or liquid electrical tape.
Slotted sleeves over the ends of the barrel , plugs in those made of
HDPE drilled to hold a TIG electrode centered in the barrel . Suspend in
a PVC pipe full of electrolyte with an aquarium pump air stone
alongside the barrel to set up circulation . We've been discussing this
over at the Logan Lathe email list .
Snag
Let's Go Brandon !
-------------------
OK. I was trying to think of a setup that wouldn't affect the bluing or browning on the outside.
On 10/8/2021 8:37 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 10/8/2021 4:25 PM, Snag wrote:
>>cross-posted<<
Today I scored a muzzle loader at a yard sale for a measly 15 bucks
. Great deal , right ? Well , maybe . I got looking at the bore a bit
ago and there is some pretty heavy rust in there - much more than I
expected from the condition of the outside .
I believe the 2 top contenders for derusting are phosphoric acid
and Evaporust . I'm wondering which will be best in this situation .
I intend to cast some lead laps to polish the bore if needed , but I
won't know the true condition until the rust is gone . And the barrel
may not be salvageable ...
The plan is to pull the breech plug and strip the barrel , stick
it inside a piece of PVC of the proper size and fill the pipe with
solution . Pumping a bore brush in the barrel to circulate fresh
solution will be done periodically .
So kids , which shall it be ?
I've used EvaporRust and its "okay." It neutralizes most rust, but in
the case of a muzzle loader bore I'd probably power a brass brush
through at several times, and then take a look at what's left. The
biggest issue would be if the muzzle is eroded. The crown and muzzle
are as important to accuracy as the rifling. Honestly some pretty bad
rifling can still spin stabilize the bullet, but the muzzle needs to
be uniform. Often if the crown is messed up they can be recrowned.
I've shot BP since my mid teens. Maybe 40 years. Not an expert...
well except at doing things wrong.
I think there's decent rifling under the rust , for sure the muzzle
and the last couple of inches look not too bad, we'll see after I scrub
it out . I hesitate to use anything solvent based , I think soap and
water first off with a brass brush . Somewhere around here I think I
have a small bottle of JB's Bore Scrub . I used that stuff to polish a
22-250 bore many years ago and it went from 3/4" groups to under 5/8 '
... actually I almost hope it needs to be rebarrelled . Gives me a
chance to maybe build a .36 to match my C&B revolver .
My very first powder burner was a .36 Navy CVA kit. I let it get away
years ago, but recently decided I wanted one again. I found Dixie
Gunworks sold a Pietta kit. Its rumored on Internet forums that Pietta likely made my original CVA kit so I bought one.
Timed to start at the big reveal.
https://youtu.be/9OuR1x9BK4o?t=269
So... do you have a source for a .36 barrel liner? I've looked at
Redman liners before with a thought to use some of them for higher power airgun builds. I don't recall a .36 liner. Not that there isn't one.
Its just something I'ld like to know about.
On 10/10/2021 11:20 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
My very first powder burner was a .36 Navy CVA kit. I let it get away
years ago, but recently decided I wanted one again. I found Dixie
Gunworks sold a Pietta kit. Its rumored on Internet forums that
Pietta likely made my original CVA kit so I bought one.
Timed to start at the big reveal.
https://youtu.be/9OuR1x9BK4o?t=269
So... do you have a source for a .36 barrel liner? I've looked at
Redman liners before with a thought to use some of them for higher
power airgun builds. I don't recall a .36 liner. Not that there
isn't one. Its just something I'ld like to know about.
My first was also a CVA , a .50 plains rifle . It's standing in a
corner . It now wears a 2-7 variable extended eye relief scope intended
for a Mosin-Nagant ... my eyes ain't what they useta be . I followed up
the rifle with an 1860 Navy .36 revolver kit (Navy version of the 1858 Remington I think) , mostly just sanding and polishing the frame , wood
, and brass parts . Dad liked mine so much he bought and built a .45
Kentucky Rifle and an 1858 Remington .44 revolver . I got the revolver ,
one of my brothers got the Kentucky Rifle .
On 10/11/2021 6:20 AM, Snag wrote:
On 10/10/2021 11:20 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
My very first powder burner was a .36 Navy CVA kit. I let it get
away years ago, but recently decided I wanted one again. I found
Dixie Gunworks sold a Pietta kit. Its rumored on Internet forums
that Pietta likely made my original CVA kit so I bought one.
Timed to start at the big reveal.
https://youtu.be/9OuR1x9BK4o?t=269
So... do you have a source for a .36 barrel liner? I've looked at
Redman liners before with a thought to use some of them for higher
power airgun builds. I don't recall a .36 liner. Not that there
isn't one. Its just something I'ld like to know about.
My first was also a CVA , a .50 plains rifle . It's standing in a
corner . It now wears a 2-7 variable extended eye relief scope
intended for a Mosin-Nagant ... my eyes ain't what they useta be . I
followed up the rifle with an 1860 Navy .36 revolver kit (Navy version
of the 1858 Remington I think) , mostly just sanding and polishing the
frame , wood , and brass parts . Dad liked mine so much he bought and
built a .45 Kentucky Rifle and an 1858 Remington .44 revolver . I got
the revolver , one of my brothers got the Kentucky Rifle .
I'm playing the idea right now (just in the mental images stage at the moment) with the idea making a 209 primer cylinder and firing pin
hammer. It will still be functionally a cap and ball, but it should
have better ignition, lower chance of cap jams, and better weather resistance. I haven't decided to "do it" just yet. Lots of other
projects going. It would require off gun loading unless I invent some
other stuff too, but if I make one cylinder I could make a couple.
On 10/13/2021 3:41 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 10/11/2021 6:20 AM, Snag wrote:
On 10/10/2021 11:20 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
My very first powder burner was a .36 Navy CVA kit. I let it get
away years ago, but recently decided I wanted one again. I found
Dixie Gunworks sold a Pietta kit. Its rumored on Internet forums
that Pietta likely made my original CVA kit so I bought one.
Timed to start at the big reveal.
https://youtu.be/9OuR1x9BK4o?t=269
So... do you have a source for a .36 barrel liner? I've looked at
Redman liners before with a thought to use some of them for higher
power airgun builds. I don't recall a .36 liner. Not that there
isn't one. Its just something I'ld like to know about.
My first was also a CVA , a .50 plains rifle . It's standing in a
corner . It now wears a 2-7 variable extended eye relief scope
intended for a Mosin-Nagant ... my eyes ain't what they useta be . I
followed up the rifle with an 1860 Navy .36 revolver kit (Navy
version of the 1858 Remington I think) , mostly just sanding and
polishing the frame , wood , and brass parts . Dad liked mine so
much he bought and built a .45 Kentucky Rifle and an 1858 Remington
.44 revolver . I got the revolver , one of my brothers got the
Kentucky Rifle .
I'm playing the idea right now (just in the mental images stage at
the moment) with the idea making a 209 primer cylinder and firing pin
hammer. It will still be functionally a cap and ball, but it should
have better ignition, lower chance of cap jams, and better weather
resistance. I haven't decided to "do it" just yet. Lots of other
projects going. It would require off gun loading unless I invent
some other stuff too, but if I make one cylinder I could make a couple.
Is a 209 significantly longer than a nipple and cap ? Well , I guess
it wouldn't matter , since you'll be making contact with a point (more
or less) rather than a flat surface - can you source or fabricate a
new hammer so you don't destroy the original ? Does it matter to you
to be able to restore it to original ? I think you'd want to make a
new drum and the "nipple" can be just a short cylinder ... would you
want the flash hole a tiny bit larger due to the increased gas output
from the 209 ? <<My neighbor is a fast-draw competitor , they use
209's as the propellant for a wax bullet>>
Dammit , all I need is more potential projects whirling around in my
head ! Today I ordered the rest of the parts I know I need to tear
down my 1990 FLH trans and replace a whining main drive
gear/countershaft 5th pair and the primary chain and both sprockets .
Plus next week I'll be bringing my truck home (son in Memphis , Grrr.)
with the potential of rebuilding the motor because it got ran out of
oil - not his fault , broken oil pressure switch for the ID10T light .
I'll bore scope the cylinders when I get it home and decide then which
way to go . I might be lucky and it didn't damage the cylinder walls -
but I doubt that , he thought it had seized so ... If I gotta tear it
down it ain't goin' back together stock !
On 10/13/2021 3:41 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 10/11/2021 6:20 AM, Snag wrote:
On 10/10/2021 11:20 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
My very first powder burner was a .36 Navy CVA kit. I let it get
away years ago, but recently decided I wanted one again. I found
Dixie Gunworks sold a Pietta kit. Its rumored on Internet forums
that Pietta likely made my original CVA kit so I bought one.
Timed to start at the big reveal.
https://youtu.be/9OuR1x9BK4o?t=269
So... do you have a source for a .36 barrel liner? I've looked at
Redman liners before with a thought to use some of them for higher
power airgun builds. I don't recall a .36 liner. Not that there
isn't one. Its just something I'ld like to know about.
My first was also a CVA , a .50 plains rifle . It's standing in a
corner . It now wears a 2-7 variable extended eye relief scope
intended for a Mosin-Nagant ... my eyes ain't what they useta be . I
followed up the rifle with an 1860 Navy .36 revolver kit (Navy
version of the 1858 Remington I think) , mostly just sanding and
polishing the frame , wood , and brass parts . Dad liked mine so much
he bought and built a .45 Kentucky Rifle and an 1858 Remington .44
revolver . I got the revolver , one of my brothers got the Kentucky
Rifle .
I'm playing the idea right now (just in the mental images stage at the
moment) with the idea making a 209 primer cylinder and firing pin
hammer. It will still be functionally a cap and ball, but it should
have better ignition, lower chance of cap jams, and better weather
resistance. I haven't decided to "do it" just yet. Lots of other
projects going. It would require off gun loading unless I invent some
other stuff too, but if I make one cylinder I could make a couple.
Is a 209 significantly longer than a nipple and cap ? Well , I guess it wouldn't matter , since you'll be making contact with a point (more or
less) rather than a flat surface - can you source or fabricate a new
hammer so you don't destroy the original ? Does it matter to you to be
able to restore it to original ? I think you'd want to make a new drum
and the "nipple" can be just a short cylinder ... would you want the
flash hole a tiny bit larger due to the increased gas output from the
209 ? <<My neighbor is a fast-draw competitor , they use 209's as the propellant for a wax bullet>>
Dammit , all I need is more potential projects whirling around in my
head ! Today I ordered the rest of the parts I know I need to tear down
my 1990 FLH trans and replace a whining main drive gear/countershaft 5th
pair and the primary chain and both sprockets . Plus next week I'll be bringing my truck home (son in Memphis , Grrr.) with the potential of rebuilding the motor because it got ran out of oil - not his fault ,
broken oil pressure switch for the ID10T light . I'll bore scope the cylinders when I get it home and decide then which way to go . I might
be lucky and it didn't damage the cylinder walls - but I doubt that , he thought it had seized so ... If I gotta tear it down it ain't goin' back together stock !
On 10/21/21 3:58 PM, Snag wrote:
On 10/13/2021 3:41 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 10/11/2021 6:20 AM, Snag wrote:
On 10/10/2021 11:20 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
My very first powder burner was a .36 Navy CVA kit. I let it get
away years ago, but recently decided I wanted one again. I found
Dixie Gunworks sold a Pietta kit. Its rumored on Internet forums
that Pietta likely made my original CVA kit so I bought one.
Timed to start at the big reveal.
https://youtu.be/9OuR1x9BK4o?t=269
So... do you have a source for a .36 barrel liner? I've looked at
Redman liners before with a thought to use some of them for higher
power airgun builds. I don't recall a .36 liner. Not that there
isn't one. Its just something I'ld like to know about.
My first was also a CVA , a .50 plains rifle . It's standing in a >>>> corner . It now wears a 2-7 variable extended eye relief scope
intended for a Mosin-Nagant ... my eyes ain't what they useta be . I
followed up the rifle with an 1860 Navy .36 revolver kit (Navy
version of the 1858 Remington I think) , mostly just sanding and
polishing the frame , wood , and brass parts . Dad liked mine so
much he bought and built a .45 Kentucky Rifle and an 1858 Remington
.44 revolver . I got the revolver , one of my brothers got the
Kentucky Rifle .
I'm playing the idea right now (just in the mental images stage at
the moment) with the idea making a 209 primer cylinder and firing pin
hammer. It will still be functionally a cap and ball, but it should
have better ignition, lower chance of cap jams, and better weather
resistance. I haven't decided to "do it" just yet. Lots of other
projects going. It would require off gun loading unless I invent
some other stuff too, but if I make one cylinder I could make a couple.
Is a 209 significantly longer than a nipple and cap ? Well , I guess
it wouldn't matter , since you'll be making contact with a point (more
or less) rather than a flat surface - can you source or fabricate a
new hammer so you don't destroy the original ? Does it matter to you
to be able to restore it to original ? I think you'd want to make a
new drum and the "nipple" can be just a short cylinder ... would you
want the flash hole a tiny bit larger due to the increased gas output
from the 209 ? <<My neighbor is a fast-draw competitor , they use
209's as the propellant for a wax bullet>>
Dammit , all I need is more potential projects whirling around in my
head ! Today I ordered the rest of the parts I know I need to tear
down my 1990 FLH trans and replace a whining main drive
gear/countershaft 5th pair and the primary chain and both sprockets .
Plus next week I'll be bringing my truck home (son in Memphis , Grrr.)
with the potential of rebuilding the motor because it got ran out of
oil - not his fault , broken oil pressure switch for the ID10T light .
I'll bore scope the cylinders when I get it home and decide then which
way to go . I might be lucky and it didn't damage the cylinder walls -
but I doubt that , he thought it had seized so ... If I gotta tear it
down it ain't goin' back together stock !
You should film all this shit and put it up on utube.
On 10/21/2021 12:58 PM, Snag wrote:
On 10/13/2021 3:41 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 10/11/2021 6:20 AM, Snag wrote:
On 10/10/2021 11:20 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
My very first powder burner was a .36 Navy CVA kit. I let it get
away years ago, but recently decided I wanted one again. I found
Dixie Gunworks sold a Pietta kit. Its rumored on Internet forums
that Pietta likely made my original CVA kit so I bought one.
Timed to start at the big reveal.
https://youtu.be/9OuR1x9BK4o?t=269
So... do you have a source for a .36 barrel liner? I've looked at
Redman liners before with a thought to use some of them for higher
power airgun builds. I don't recall a .36 liner. Not that there
isn't one. Its just something I'ld like to know about.
My first was also a CVA , a .50 plains rifle . It's standing in a >>>> corner . It now wears a 2-7 variable extended eye relief scope
intended for a Mosin-Nagant ... my eyes ain't what they useta be . I
followed up the rifle with an 1860 Navy .36 revolver kit (Navy
version of the 1858 Remington I think) , mostly just sanding and
polishing the frame , wood , and brass parts . Dad liked mine so
much he bought and built a .45 Kentucky Rifle and an 1858 Remington
.44 revolver . I got the revolver , one of my brothers got the
Kentucky Rifle .
I'm playing the idea right now (just in the mental images stage at
the moment) with the idea making a 209 primer cylinder and firing pin
hammer. It will still be functionally a cap and ball, but it should
have better ignition, lower chance of cap jams, and better weather
resistance. I haven't decided to "do it" just yet. Lots of other
projects going. It would require off gun loading unless I invent
some other stuff too, but if I make one cylinder I could make a couple.
Is a 209 significantly longer than a nipple and cap ? Well , I guess
it wouldn't matter , since you'll be making contact with a point (more
or less) rather than a flat surface - can you source or fabricate a
new hammer so you don't destroy the original ? Does it matter to you
to be able to restore it to original ? I think you'd want to make a
new drum and the "nipple" can be just a short cylinder ... would you
want the flash hole a tiny bit larger due to the increased gas output
from the 209 ? <<My neighbor is a fast-draw competitor , they use
209's as the propellant for a wax bullet>>
I think it would be no big deal to duplicate the hammer with a hammer
held firing pin much like many early cartridge revolvers like the .32
S&W and the H&R 922 .22 among many others. I think ideally the firing
pin should depress the primer just enough as the area around it lays
flat across the primer. Should help reduce primer bulge or primer pop
as well. With a setup like that I'd start with a light load and work up until either I got primer bulge or I got similar velocities to regular
#10/11 cap guns.
Dammit , all I need is more potential projects whirling around in
my head ! Today I ordered the rest of the parts I know I need to tear
down my 1990 FLH trans and replace a whining main drive
gear/countershaft 5th pair and the primary chain and both sprockets .
Plus next week I'll be bringing my truck home (son in Memphis , Grrr.)
with the potential of rebuilding the motor because it got ran out of
oil - not his fault , broken oil pressure switch for the ID10T light .
I'll bore scope the cylinders when I get it home and decide then which
way to go . I might be lucky and it didn't damage the cylinder walls -
but I doubt that , he thought it had seized so ... If I gotta tear it
down it ain't goin' back together stock !
Good luck. I've gotten to hate working on vehicles. Only reason I do
it is because I hate paying somebody to do it wrong or not do what I
asked even more. To many times in my youth I was up late fixing my
vehicle so I could make it to work the next morning. Usually very
early. One time I got home early with a need for sleep when smoke
poured out from under the dash because the entire wiring harness
suddenly melted down. I was up until 3am chasing wires so I could be to work by 6:30. It wasn't the first time I had set that car on fire
either. The first time there was less smoke, but more fire when a
hydraulic clutch line burst spraying fluid all over a red hot header
pipe. I hate working on vehicles. When I can I get my son to do it.
He's not the world's best mechanic, but with him I can work in the shop
and walk out every once in a while to double check his work. He also follows directions fairly well, and he isn't afraid to tell me when I am
just plane wrong.
On 10/21/2021 3:22 PM, Nic wrote:
On 10/21/21 3:58 PM, Snag wrote:
On 10/13/2021 3:41 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 10/11/2021 6:20 AM, Snag wrote:
On 10/10/2021 11:20 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
My very first powder burner was a .36 Navy CVA kit. I let it get >>>>>> away years ago, but recently decided I wanted one again. I found >>>>>> Dixie Gunworks sold a Pietta kit. Its rumored on Internet forums
that Pietta likely made my original CVA kit so I bought one.
Timed to start at the big reveal.
https://youtu.be/9OuR1x9BK4o?t=269
So... do you have a source for a .36 barrel liner? I've looked
at Redman liners before with a thought to use some of them for
higher power airgun builds. I don't recall a .36 liner. Not
that there isn't one. Its just something I'ld like to know about.
My first was also a CVA , a .50 plains rifle . It's standing in >>>>> a corner . It now wears a 2-7 variable extended eye relief scope
intended for a Mosin-Nagant ... my eyes ain't what they useta be .
I followed up the rifle with an 1860 Navy .36 revolver kit (Navy
version of the 1858 Remington I think) , mostly just sanding and
polishing the frame , wood , and brass parts . Dad liked mine so
much he bought and built a .45 Kentucky Rifle and an 1858
Remington .44 revolver . I got the revolver , one of my brothers
got the Kentucky Rifle .
I'm playing the idea right now (just in the mental images stage at
the moment) with the idea making a 209 primer cylinder and firing
pin hammer. It will still be functionally a cap and ball, but it
should have better ignition, lower chance of cap jams, and better
weather resistance. I haven't decided to "do it" just yet. Lots
of other projects going. It would require off gun loading unless I
invent some other stuff too, but if I make one cylinder I could
make a couple.
Is a 209 significantly longer than a nipple and cap ? Well , I guess
it wouldn't matter , since you'll be making contact with a point
(more or less) rather than a flat surface - can you source or
fabricate a new hammer so you don't destroy the original ? Does it
matter to you to be able to restore it to original ? I think you'd
want to make a new drum and the "nipple" can be just a short
cylinder ... would you want the flash hole a tiny bit larger due to
the increased gas output from the 209 ? <<My neighbor is a fast-draw
competitor , they use 209's as the propellant for a wax bullet>>
Dammit , all I need is more potential projects whirling around in
my head ! Today I ordered the rest of the parts I know I need to
tear down my 1990 FLH trans and replace a whining main drive
gear/countershaft 5th pair and the primary chain and both sprockets
. Plus next week I'll be bringing my truck home (son in Memphis ,
Grrr.) with the potential of rebuilding the motor because it got ran
out of oil - not his fault , broken oil pressure switch for the
ID10T light . I'll bore scope the cylinders when I get it home and
decide then which way to go . I might be lucky and it didn't damage
the cylinder walls - but I doubt that , he thought it had seized so
... If I gotta tear it down it ain't goin' back together stock !
You should film all this shit and put it up on utube.
I think I'll pass ... I've got nothing to prove to anyone , and
these days I prefer to keep as low a profile as I can .
I will not let anyone else work on my bikes in particular . Nobody
cares as much about Snag's ass as Snag ... The cars , well , it's as you
say much cheaper to do it yourself . My son can wrench some , but unfortunately his work doesn't quite meet my standards . I don't take shortcuts . The one exception to do it myself is automatic transmissions
. I know there's nothing mysterious about them , but I just don't have
the specialized tools needed and have no desire to buy or make them .
On 10/21/2021 3:56 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 10/21/2021 12:58 PM, Snag wrote:
On 10/13/2021 3:41 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 10/11/2021 6:20 AM, Snag wrote:
On 10/10/2021 11:20 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
My very first powder burner was a .36 Navy CVA kit. I let it get >>>>>> away years ago, but recently decided I wanted one again. I found >>>>>> Dixie Gunworks sold a Pietta kit. Its rumored on Internet forums >>>>>> that Pietta likely made my original CVA kit so I bought one.
Timed to start at the big reveal.
https://youtu.be/9OuR1x9BK4o?t=269
So... do you have a source for a .36 barrel liner? I've looked at >>>>>> Redman liners before with a thought to use some of them for higher >>>>>> power airgun builds. I don't recall a .36 liner. Not that there >>>>>> isn't one. Its just something I'ld like to know about.
My first was also a CVA , a .50 plains rifle . It's standing in >>>>> a corner . It now wears a 2-7 variable extended eye relief scope
intended for a Mosin-Nagant ... my eyes ain't what they useta be .
I followed up the rifle with an 1860 Navy .36 revolver kit (Navy
version of the 1858 Remington I think) , mostly just sanding and
polishing the frame , wood , and brass parts . Dad liked mine so
much he bought and built a .45 Kentucky Rifle and an 1858 Remington
.44 revolver . I got the revolver , one of my brothers got the
Kentucky Rifle .
I'm playing the idea right now (just in the mental images stage at
the moment) with the idea making a 209 primer cylinder and firing
pin hammer. It will still be functionally a cap and ball, but it
should have better ignition, lower chance of cap jams, and better
weather resistance. I haven't decided to "do it" just yet. Lots of >>>> other projects going. It would require off gun loading unless I
invent some other stuff too, but if I make one cylinder I could make
a couple.
Is a 209 significantly longer than a nipple and cap ? Well , I guess
it wouldn't matter , since you'll be making contact with a point
(more or less) rather than a flat surface - can you source or
fabricate a new hammer so you don't destroy the original ? Does it
matter to you to be able to restore it to original ? I think you'd
want to make a new drum and the "nipple" can be just a short cylinder
... would you want the flash hole a tiny bit larger due to the
increased gas output from the 209 ? <<My neighbor is a fast-draw
competitor , they use 209's as the propellant for a wax bullet>>
I think it would be no big deal to duplicate the hammer with a hammer
held firing pin much like many early cartridge revolvers like the .32
S&W and the H&R 922 .22 among many others. I think ideally the firing
pin should depress the primer just enough as the area around it lays
flat across the primer. Should help reduce primer bulge or primer pop
as well. With a setup like that I'd start with a light load and work
up until either I got primer bulge or I got similar velocities to
regular #10/11 cap guns.
Dammit , all I need is more potential projects whirling around in
my head ! Today I ordered the rest of the parts I know I need to tear
down my 1990 FLH trans and replace a whining main drive
gear/countershaft 5th pair and the primary chain and both sprockets .
Plus next week I'll be bringing my truck home (son in Memphis ,
Grrr.) with the potential of rebuilding the motor because it got ran
out of oil - not his fault , broken oil pressure switch for the ID10T
light . I'll bore scope the cylinders when I get it home and decide
then which way to go . I might be lucky and it didn't damage the
cylinder walls - but I doubt that , he thought it had seized so ...
If I gotta tear it down it ain't goin' back together stock !
Good luck. I've gotten to hate working on vehicles. Only reason I do
it is because I hate paying somebody to do it wrong or not do what I
asked even more. To many times in my youth I was up late fixing my
vehicle so I could make it to work the next morning. Usually very
early. One time I got home early with a need for sleep when smoke
poured out from under the dash because the entire wiring harness
suddenly melted down. I was up until 3am chasing wires so I could be
to work by 6:30. It wasn't the first time I had set that car on fire
either. The first time there was less smoke, but more fire when a
hydraulic clutch line burst spraying fluid all over a red hot header
pipe. I hate working on vehicles. When I can I get my son to do it.
He's not the world's best mechanic, but with him I can work in the
shop and walk out every once in a while to double check his work. He
also follows directions fairly well, and he isn't afraid to tell me
when I am just plane wrong.
I don't hate it ... I just don't enjoy it as much as I did 40 years
ago .
I will not let anyone else work on my bikes in particular . Nobody
cares as much about Snag's ass as Snag ... The cars , well , it's as you
say much cheaper to do it yourself . My son can wrench some , but unfortunately his work doesn't quite meet my standards . I don't take shortcuts . The one exception to do it myself is automatic transmissions
. I know there's nothing mysterious about them , but I just don't have
the specialized tools needed and have no desire to buy or make them .
I gotta say , I'm kinda looking forward to building this motor . The
GM 305 has a lot of potential , I'm thinking a low RPM torque cam , say around .460" lift and around 270° duration with around 9.25 CR , a mid
rise manifold (Edelbrock Torker ?) and some small tube headers . It's
got a 700R4 trans , and I'll be installing that set of 3.42's that are sitting next to my desk in the axle . It's not going to be a screamer ,
just a decent truck with snappy acceleration .
On 10/21/2021 3:22 PM, Nic wrote:
On 10/21/21 3:58 PM, Snag wrote:
On 10/13/2021 3:41 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 10/11/2021 6:20 AM, Snag wrote:
On 10/10/2021 11:20 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
My very first powder burner was a .36 Navy CVA kit. I let it get >>>>>> away years ago, but recently decided I wanted one again. I found >>>>>> Dixie Gunworks sold a Pietta kit. Its rumored on Internet forums >>>>>> that Pietta likely made my original CVA kit so I bought one.
Timed to start at the big reveal.
https://youtu.be/9OuR1x9BK4o?t=269
So... do you have a source for a .36 barrel liner? I've looked at >>>>>> Redman liners before with a thought to use some of them for higher >>>>>> power airgun builds. I don't recall a .36 liner. Not that there >>>>>> isn't one. Its just something I'ld like to know about.
My first was also a CVA , a .50 plains rifle . It's standing in >>>>> a corner . It now wears a 2-7 variable extended eye relief scope
intended for a Mosin-Nagant ... my eyes ain't what they useta be .
I followed up the rifle with an 1860 Navy .36 revolver kit (Navy
version of the 1858 Remington I think) , mostly just sanding and
polishing the frame , wood , and brass parts . Dad liked mine so
much he bought and built a .45 Kentucky Rifle and an 1858 Remington
.44 revolver . I got the revolver , one of my brothers got the
Kentucky Rifle .
I'm playing the idea right now (just in the mental images stage at
the moment) with the idea making a 209 primer cylinder and firing
pin hammer. It will still be functionally a cap and ball, but it
should have better ignition, lower chance of cap jams, and better
weather resistance. I haven't decided to "do it" just yet. Lots of >>>> other projects going. It would require off gun loading unless I
invent some other stuff too, but if I make one cylinder I could make
a couple.
Is a 209 significantly longer than a nipple and cap ? Well , I guess
it wouldn't matter , since you'll be making contact with a point
(more or less) rather than a flat surface - can you source or
fabricate a new hammer so you don't destroy the original ? Does it
matter to you to be able to restore it to original ? I think you'd
want to make a new drum and the "nipple" can be just a short cylinder
... would you want the flash hole a tiny bit larger due to the
increased gas output from the 209 ? <<My neighbor is a fast-draw
competitor , they use 209's as the propellant for a wax bullet>>
Dammit , all I need is more potential projects whirling around in
my head ! Today I ordered the rest of the parts I know I need to tear
down my 1990 FLH trans and replace a whining main drive
gear/countershaft 5th pair and the primary chain and both sprockets .
Plus next week I'll be bringing my truck home (son in Memphis ,
Grrr.) with the potential of rebuilding the motor because it got ran
out of oil - not his fault , broken oil pressure switch for the ID10T
light . I'll bore scope the cylinders when I get it home and decide
then which way to go . I might be lucky and it didn't damage the
cylinder walls - but I doubt that , he thought it had seized so ...
If I gotta tear it down it ain't goin' back together stock !
You should film all this shit and put it up on utube.
I think I'll pass ... I've got nothing to prove to anyone , and these days I prefer to keep as low a profile as I can .
On 10/21/2021 03:45 PM, Snag wrote:
I will not let anyone else work on my bikes in particular . Nobody
cares as much about Snag's ass as Snag ... The cars , well , it's as you
say much cheaper to do it yourself . My son can wrench some , but
unfortunately his work doesn't quite meet my standards . I don't take
shortcuts . The one exception to do it myself is automatic transmissions
. I know there's nothing mysterious about them , but I just don't have
the specialized tools needed and have no desire to buy or make them .
My only brush with an AT was the Torqueflite out of a '60 Plymouth. I
had big balls and no special tools. Taking out internal snap rings with
a couple of ice picks was interesting.
Ultimately the car wound up with a manual, which involved fabricating a hydraulic clutch. After a roadside inspection courtesy of the NY State
Police I replaced the rear axle. The AT parking brake was a drum on the
tail of the tranny and I needed a working parking brake to make Occifer Friendly happy. More fabrication.
When I went into the service I pulled the engine, drove over to a
friend's house, and left it hanging from the garage rafters, He wasn't
home and his mother was a little bemused but she was sort of used to
strange shit when I was around.
I work on the bikes and the semi-retired F150 but the Toyota doesn't ask
for much except an oil change every 5000. Can't say I miss the drama.
The next project will be the DR650 which marks its spot. I think it is
the chain tensioner gasket which isn't too bad. The earlier versions
tended to have base gasket problems but mine has the steel gasket that
was supposed to be the fix. Oil being what it is means a tablespoon full covers everything and looks like the end of the world making the source difficult to find. I've got to remember to pick up some baby powder. I
tried some chalk I had in the shop but it didn't work all that well.
Today most frequent YouTube posters seemed to be focused on views,
likes, and monetization. When I first discovered YouTube there seemed
to be a fair amount of just paying it forward and helping people out.
There is still a certain amount of that, but often they get drowned out
by the noise. Some started out as just paying it forward and helping
and they still produce helpful content, but not to the same level
because they are trying to crank out a video every so often. Sadly
YouTube has become like Google. The search results are driven by ad
revenue instead of accuracy so there is a lot of great content that's
hard to find now.
On 10/21/21 7:30 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 10/21/2021 03:45 PM, Snag wrote:
I will not let anyone else work on my bikes in particular . Nobody
cares as much about Snag's ass as Snag ... The cars , well , it's as you >>> say much cheaper to do it yourself . My son can wrench some , but
unfortunately his work doesn't quite meet my standards . I don't take
shortcuts . The one exception to do it myself is automatic transmissions >>> . I know there's nothing mysterious about them , but I just don't have
the specialized tools needed and have no desire to buy or make them .
My only brush with an AT was the Torqueflite out of a '60 Plymouth. I
had big balls and no special tools. Taking out internal snap rings
with a couple of ice picks was interesting.
Ultimately the car wound up with a manual, which involved fabricating
a hydraulic clutch. After a roadside inspection courtesy of the NY
State Police I replaced the rear axle. The AT parking brake was a drum
on the tail of the tranny and I needed a working parking brake to make
Occifer Friendly happy. More fabrication.
When I went into the service I pulled the engine, drove over to a
friend's house, and left it hanging from the garage rafters, He wasn't
home and his mother was a little bemused but she was sort of used to
strange shit when I was around.
I work on the bikes and the semi-retired F150 but the Toyota doesn't
ask for much except an oil change every 5000. Can't say I miss the drama.
The next project will be the DR650 which marks its spot. I think it is
the chain tensioner gasket which isn't too bad. The earlier versions
tended to have base gasket problems but mine has the steel gasket that
was supposed to be the fix. Oil being what it is means a tablespoon
full covers everything and looks like the end of the world making the
source difficult to find. I've got to remember to pick up some baby
powder. I tried some chalk I had in the shop but it didn't work all
that well.
I wonder if I may interrupt all this mainsplaining macho talk to ask you
your opinion on this article. Not so much your opinion about the
journalist who wrote it, but how accurately it describes Montana where
you live.
https://www.chron.com/news/article/Montanans-used-to-live-and-let-live-Now-bitter-16561244.php
I wonder if I may interrupt all this mainsplaining macho talk to ask you
your opinion on this article. Not so much your opinion about the
journalist who wrote it, but how accurately it describes Montana where
you live.
https://www.chron.com/news/article/Montanans-used-to-live-and-let-live-Now-bitter-16561244.php
--
On 10/25/2021 5:50 PM, Bruce Jender wrote:
On 10/21/21 7:30 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 10/21/2021 03:45 PM, Snag wrote:
I will not let anyone else work on my bikes in particular . Nobody
cares as much about Snag's ass as Snag ... The cars , well , it's as
you
say much cheaper to do it yourself . My son can wrench some , but
unfortunately his work doesn't quite meet my standards . I don't take
shortcuts . The one exception to do it myself is automatic
transmissions
. I know there's nothing mysterious about them , but I just don't have >>>> the specialized tools needed and have no desire to buy or make them .
My only brush with an AT was the Torqueflite out of a '60 Plymouth. I
had big balls and no special tools. Taking out internal snap rings
with a couple of ice picks was interesting.
Ultimately the car wound up with a manual, which involved fabricating
a hydraulic clutch. After a roadside inspection courtesy of the NY
State Police I replaced the rear axle. The AT parking brake was a
drum on the tail of the tranny and I needed a working parking brake
to make Occifer Friendly happy. More fabrication.
When I went into the service I pulled the engine, drove over to a
friend's house, and left it hanging from the garage rafters, He
wasn't home and his mother was a little bemused but she was sort of
used to strange shit when I was around.
I work on the bikes and the semi-retired F150 but the Toyota doesn't
ask for much except an oil change every 5000. Can't say I miss the
drama.
The next project will be the DR650 which marks its spot. I think it
is the chain tensioner gasket which isn't too bad. The earlier
versions tended to have base gasket problems but mine has the steel
gasket that was supposed to be the fix. Oil being what it is means a
tablespoon full covers everything and looks like the end of the world
making the source difficult to find. I've got to remember to pick up
some baby powder. I tried some chalk I had in the shop but it didn't
work all that well.
I wonder if I may interrupt all this mainsplaining macho talk to ask
you your opinion on this article. Not so much your opinion about the
journalist who wrote it, but how accurately it describes Montana where
you live.
https://www.chron.com/news/article/Montanans-used-to-live-and-let-live-Now-bitter-16561244.php
Be quiet boy the men are talking . If you shut your mouth and open
your ears you might learn something ...
On 10/21/21 7:30 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 10/21/2021 03:45 PM, Snag wrote:
I will not let anyone else work on my bikes in particular . Nobody
cares as much about Snag's ass as Snag ... The cars , well , it's as you >>> say much cheaper to do it yourself . My son can wrench some , but
unfortunately his work doesn't quite meet my standards . I don't take
shortcuts . The one exception to do it myself is automatic transmissions >>> . I know there's nothing mysterious about them , but I just don't have
the specialized tools needed and have no desire to buy or make them .
My only brush with an AT was the Torqueflite out of a '60 Plymouth. I
had big balls and no special tools. Taking out internal snap rings
with a couple of ice picks was interesting.
Ultimately the car wound up with a manual, which involved fabricating
a hydraulic clutch. After a roadside inspection courtesy of the NY
State Police I replaced the rear axle. The AT parking brake was a drum
on the tail of the tranny and I needed a working parking brake to make
Occifer Friendly happy. More fabrication.
When I went into the service I pulled the engine, drove over to a
friend's house, and left it hanging from the garage rafters, He wasn't
home and his mother was a little bemused but she was sort of used to
strange shit when I was around.
I work on the bikes and the semi-retired F150 but the Toyota doesn't
ask for much except an oil change every 5000. Can't say I miss the drama.
The next project will be the DR650 which marks its spot. I think it is
the chain tensioner gasket which isn't too bad. The earlier versions
tended to have base gasket problems but mine has the steel gasket that
was supposed to be the fix. Oil being what it is means a tablespoon
full covers everything and looks like the end of the world making the
source difficult to find. I've got to remember to pick up some baby
powder. I tried some chalk I had in the shop but it didn't work all
that well.
I wonder if I may interrupt all this mainsplaining macho talk to ask you
your opinion on this article. Not so much your opinion about the
journalist who wrote it, but how accurately it describes Montana where
you live.
https://www.chron.com/news/article/Montanans-used-to-live-and-let-live-Now-bitter-16561244.php
He probably supports colorful diversity like this:
https://nbcmontana.com/news/local/afghan-teen-facing-rape-charge-in-missoula-is-part-of-resettlement-program
What really sucks about assholes like that is they cast a shadow on the people who came here and are leading productive lives.
https://www.arabamerica.com/arab-flavors-iraqi-syrian-families-start-new-food-truck-in-missoula/
For historical reasons we have a lot of Hmong that came here when the US pulled out of Vietnam. I don't recall there ever being problems after
the learned that elk are not really big deer and you need a separate tag.
I'm sure there are a lot of hard working Afghans that just want a new
life but they aren't off to a very good start in this state.
rbowman wrote:
He probably supports colorful diversity like this:
https://nbcmontana.com/news/local/afghan-teen-facing-rape-charge-in-missoula-is-part-of-resettlement-program
What really sucks about assholes like that is they cast a shadow on the
people who came here and are leading productive lives.
https://www.arabamerica.com/arab-flavors-iraqi-syrian-families-start-new-food-truck-in-missoula/
For historical reasons we have a lot of Hmong that came here when the US
pulled out of Vietnam. I don't recall there ever being problems after
the learned that elk are not really big deer and you need a separate tag.
I'm sure there are a lot of hard working Afghans that just want a new
life but they aren't off to a very good start in this state.
WHAT, Elk are not just big deer? Since when... Guess I'll need toTry a full grown bull moose!
apologize to the Elk farm again this year.... (But they do taste
better, even though they are a bitch to drag out of the woods)
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