I have a couple of thousandths runout on the grinding disc for my new
end mill sharpening fixture . So I look online and I see diamond single
point wheel dressing doodads . And I think to myself , "Myself , you
should buy some of those so you can true that grinding disc" . So I
bought some cheap ones six for just under 15 bucks . And I got what I
paid for ... these things will cut a standard grindstone like it's
butter , in fact too aggressive to do by hand . I don't know what that grinding disc is made of , but it cut the diamond point - it also cuts carbide end mills quite well. The diamond still cuts the regular wheels
like before , but there's a definite flat on the tip where there was a
point before . I did mount the dresser in a collet for the mill part of
this exercise .
On 5/7/2023 1:56 PM, Snag wrote:
I have a couple of thousandths runout on the grinding disc for my
new end mill sharpening fixture . So I look online and I see diamond
single point wheel dressing doodads . And I think to myself , "Myself
, you should buy some of those so you can true that grinding disc" .
So I bought some cheap ones six for just under 15 bucks . And I got
what I paid for ... these things will cut a standard grindstone like
it's butter , in fact too aggressive to do by hand . I don't know what
that grinding disc is made of , but it cut the diamond point - it also
cuts carbide end mills quite well. The diamond still cuts the regular
wheels like before , but there's a definite flat on the tip where
there was a point before . I did mount the dresser in a collet for the
mill part of this exercise .
Recent epiphany... sorta. Sometime back I asked similar questions about dressing and truing diamond wheels. I did get some responses, but there wasn't really an easy answer. Not like dressing an aluminum oxide wheel with a diamond nib.
The other day I was making the 18 degree chamfer mill (D-drill), and I
came up with a good way to find my zero on the base round carbide blank (broken end mill). I took a very light pass on one side, bumped the
tool head around, and took another pass repeating until I had a visibly uniform width flat the length of the cut. While I know its not perfect
I am sure its "pretty good." The reason I "know" this is that
significantly less than the line width of the degree mark on the head
made a significant visible difference in the line width from end to end
of the flat. Am I going to be making custom production tooling in some
big shop? No. Of course not. Will I get this job done? I'll let you know when I stop being afraid of it and just do it.
I have no idea how flat the flat face of the diamond wheel is, but if I
set the head to zero, and run the tool across it I get a uniform flat
cut. If I just feed the tool into the face of the wheel, maybe not so
much.
I just did a CAD model to find the zero point I want to use on this tool yesterday. I might work up the nerve to run it today.
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:u4gjta$28rfc$1@dont-email.me...
Recent epiphany... sorta. Sometime back I asked similar questions about dressing and truing diamond wheels. I did get some responses, but there wasn't really an easy answer. Not like dressing an aluminum oxide wheel with a diamond nib.
The other day I was making the 18 degree chamfer mill (D-drill), and I
came up with a good way to find my zero on the base round carbide blank (broken end mill). I took a very light pass on one side, bumped the
tool head around, and took another pass repeating until I had a visibly uniform width flat the length of the cut. While I know its not perfect
I am sure its "pretty good." The reason I "know" this is that
significantly less than the line width of the degree mark on the head
made a significant visible difference in the line width from end to end
of the flat. Am I going to be making custom production tooling in some
big shop? No. Of course not. Will I get this job done? I'll let you know when I stop being afraid of it and just do it.
I have no idea how flat the flat face of the diamond wheel is, but if I
set the head to zero, and run the tool across it I get a uniform flat
cut. If I just feed the tool into the face of the wheel, maybe not so
much.
-----------------------
Are you saying you got good results by grinding slowly with only the
highest area on the undressed diamond wheel?
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:u4gjta$28rfc$1@dont-email.me...
Recent epiphany... sorta. Sometime back I asked similar questions about dressing and truing diamond wheels. I did get some responses, but there wasn't really an easy answer. Not like dressing an aluminum oxide wheel with a diamond nib.
The other day I was making the 18 degree chamfer mill (D-drill), and I
came up with a good way to find my zero on the base round carbide blank (broken end mill). I took a very light pass on one side, bumped the
tool head around, and took another pass repeating until I had a visibly uniform width flat the length of the cut. While I know its not perfect
I am sure its "pretty good." The reason I "know" this is that
significantly less than the line width of the degree mark on the head
made a significant visible difference in the line width from end to end
of the flat. Am I going to be making custom production tooling in some
big shop? No. Of course not. Will I get this job done? I'll let you know when I stop being afraid of it and just do it.
I have no idea how flat the flat face of the diamond wheel is, but if I
set the head to zero, and run the tool across it I get a uniform flat
cut. If I just feed the tool into the face of the wheel, maybe not so
much.
-----------------------
Are you saying you got good results by grinding slowly with only the
highest area on the undressed diamond wheel?
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