• Re: PING ! Bob La Londe

    From Bob La Londe@21:1/5 to Joe Gwinn on Wed May 10 15:19:39 2023
    On 5/10/2023 2:54 PM, Joe Gwinn wrote:
    On Wed, 10 May 2023 13:44:31 -0700, Bob La Londe <none@none.com99>
    wrote:

    On 5/10/2023 1:33 PM, Snag wrote:
        Or anyone else with pertinent information ...
     Did I see you post something a while back about brazing carbide ? I
    have some brazed boring bars (for my boring head) that are chewed up ,
    and a stash of high quality solid carbide router bits ...
      I have regular brazing rod with and without flux , regular brazing
    flux , and  phosphor bronze TIG filler .


    It wasn't me. At least not in a meaningful or useful way. I thought
    you were the one talking about brazing carbide for a glass blower or
    something like that a while back. Now I am all confused.

    The toughest thing I ever brazed was refrigeration lines with self
    fluxing silvphos15. I did it with OA and kept blowing out lines in
    place. In the end I made the assembly on the welding table and
    connected it in with flair fittings. More recently a refrigeration tech
    said he has better luck with a turbo torch with just air instead of OA.

    It sounds like the OA torch did not have the needed total BTUs per
    second to get the assembly up to brazing temperature. The OA may also
    have been too hot in one place. From what I've read, for OA, one
    would use a rosebud torch. I always used acetylene-air or
    propane-air. Sometimes I build a muffle from stacked fire bricks.

    Joe Gwinn


    I was easily able to do it on the bench. Out of position on the
    compressor I kept blowing it out. Drove me bonkers. I was using a
    welding tip. Using a rosebud never occurred to me. About the only time
    I use the rosebud is either for a quick forging job, or for welding
    preheat.
    --
    Bob La Londe
    CNC Molds N Stuff


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  • From David Billington@21:1/5 to Bob La Londe on Wed May 10 23:17:47 2023
    On 10/05/2023 21:44, Bob La Londe wrote:
    On 5/10/2023 1:33 PM, Snag wrote:
         Or anyone else with pertinent information ...
      Did I see you post something a while back about brazing carbide ? I
    have some brazed boring bars (for my boring head) that are chewed up
    , and a stash of high quality solid carbide router bits ...
       I have regular brazing rod with and without flux , regular brazing
    flux , and  phosphor bronze TIG filler .


    It wasn't me.  At least not in a meaningful or useful way.  I thought
    you were the one talking about brazing carbide for a glass blower or something like that a while back.  Now I am all confused.

    The toughest thing I ever brazed was refrigeration lines with self
    fluxing silvphos15.  I did it with OA and kept blowing out lines in
    place.  In the end I made the assembly on the welding table and
    connected it in with flair fittings.  More recently a refrigeration
    tech said he has better luck with a turbo torch with just air instead
    of OA.

    Sorry that's all I got.


    When I've used Silphos rod for brazing copper I've just used the likes
    of a Benzomatic/Rotherberger propane/MAPP torch and no problem at all
    getting it to the right temperature even for larger tube like 15mm
    plumbing tube. I tried to instruct someone else and she was like a deer
    in the headlight lights and overheated it even with one of those as she
    was concentrating all the heat in one spot, got it done in the end
    though once she got used to it. I have in the past used OA for soft
    soldering as it gave me better control but you need to know how to move
    the torch to control and get the heat where required.

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  • From shiggins@21:1/5 to David Billington on Wed May 10 17:53:42 2023
    On 5/10/2023 5:17 PM, David Billington wrote:
    On 10/05/2023 21:44, Bob La Londe wrote:
    On 5/10/2023 1:33 PM, Snag wrote:
         Or anyone else with pertinent information ...
      Did I see you post something a while back about brazing carbide ? I
    have some brazed boring bars (for my boring head) that are chewed up
    , and a stash of high quality solid carbide router bits ...
       I have regular brazing rod with and without flux , regular brazing
    flux , and  phosphor bronze TIG filler .


    It wasn't me.  At least not in a meaningful or useful way.  I thought
    you were the one talking about brazing carbide for a glass blower or
    something like that a while back.  Now I am all confused.

    The toughest thing I ever brazed was refrigeration lines with self
    fluxing silvphos15.  I did it with OA and kept blowing out lines in
    place.  In the end I made the assembly on the welding table and
    connected it in with flair fittings.  More recently a refrigeration
    tech said he has better luck with a turbo torch with just air instead
    of OA.

    Sorry that's all I got.


    When I've used Silphos rod for brazing copper I've just used the likes
    of a Benzomatic/Rotherberger propane/MAPP torch and no problem at all
    getting it to the right temperature even for larger tube like 15mm
    plumbing tube. I tried to instruct someone else and she was like a deer
    in the headlight lights and overheated it even with one of those as she
    was concentrating all the heat in one spot, got it done in the end
    though once she got used to it. I have in the past used OA for soft
    soldering as it gave me better control but you need to know how to move
    the torch to control and get the heat where required.

    I've done a lot of brazing using the prefluxed brazing rod and silphos.
    I have 2 OA torch setups, a Victor Journeyman and a Uniweld. For both I
    use a "0" welding tip with 5# oxy and 5# acetylene. I prefer neutral
    flame color.
    For copper to copper and copper to brass I use the silphos moving the
    flametip slowly along the weld path. When it gets red and not yet cherry
    I start dippin and movin. I haven't burned through I think due to the
    fact I don't stay in one place with the flame tip.
    For steel to steel or steel to anything else I use the prefluxed brazing
    rod. I don't know the composition but it looks like brass or brass
    alloy. I get a spot almost yellow before I dip the rod. If you get the
    temp right you can lay the rod down in the path of the tip and it will
    flow nicely.
    I've had good luck with these methods. YMMV

    Steve

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  • From Snag@21:1/5 to Bob La Londe on Wed May 10 23:30:10 2023
    On 5/10/2023 3:44 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
    On 5/10/2023 1:33 PM, Snag wrote:
         Or anyone else with pertinent information ...
      Did I see you post something a while back about brazing carbide ? I
    have some brazed boring bars (for my boring head) that are chewed up ,
    and a stash of high quality solid carbide router bits ...
       I have regular brazing rod with and without flux , regular brazing
    flux , and  phosphor bronze TIG filler .


    It wasn't me.  At least not in a meaningful or useful way.  I thought
    you were the one talking about brazing carbide for a glass blower or something like that a while back.  Now I am all confused.

    The toughest thing I ever brazed was refrigeration lines with self
    fluxing silvphos15.  I did it with OA and kept blowing out lines in
    place.  In the end I made the assembly on the welding table and
    connected it in with flair fittings.  More recently a refrigeration tech said he has better luck with a turbo torch with just air instead of OA.

    Sorry that's all I got.



    I was making glass bead mandrels , TIG welding TIG electrode pieces
    to SS handles with Invar42 nickel/iron filler .
    She doesn't call me any more . I think she found out about my
    conservative leanings ... she's friends with the libs at the (dead)end
    of our road , might have seen my Trump flags <grin> .
    --
    Snag
    "You can lead a dummy to facts
    but you can't make him think."

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Snag@21:1/5 to shiggins on Wed May 10 23:23:27 2023
    On 5/10/2023 5:53 PM, shiggins wrote:
    On 5/10/2023 5:17 PM, David Billington wrote:
    On 10/05/2023 21:44, Bob La Londe wrote:
    On 5/10/2023 1:33 PM, Snag wrote:
         Or anyone else with pertinent information ...
      Did I see you post something a while back about brazing carbide ?
    I have some brazed boring bars (for my boring head) that are chewed
    up , and a stash of high quality solid carbide router bits ...
       I have regular brazing rod with and without flux , regular
    brazing flux , and  phosphor bronze TIG filler .


    It wasn't me.  At least not in a meaningful or useful way.  I thought
    you were the one talking about brazing carbide for a glass blower or
    something like that a while back.  Now I am all confused.

    The toughest thing I ever brazed was refrigeration lines with self
    fluxing silvphos15.  I did it with OA and kept blowing out lines in
    place.  In the end I made the assembly on the welding table and
    connected it in with flair fittings.  More recently a refrigeration
    tech said he has better luck with a turbo torch with just air instead
    of OA.

    Sorry that's all I got.


    When I've used Silphos rod for brazing copper I've just used the likes
    of a Benzomatic/Rotherberger propane/MAPP torch and no problem at all
    getting it to the right temperature even for larger tube like 15mm
    plumbing tube. I tried to instruct someone else and she was like a
    deer in the headlight lights and overheated it even with one of those
    as she was concentrating all the heat in one spot, got it done in the
    end though once she got used to it. I have in the past used OA for
    soft soldering as it gave me better control but you need to know how
    to move the torch to control and get the heat where required.

    I've done a lot of brazing using the prefluxed brazing rod and silphos.
    I have 2 OA torch setups, a Victor Journeyman and a Uniweld. For both I
    use a "0" welding tip with 5# oxy and 5# acetylene. I prefer neutral
    flame color.
    For copper to copper and copper to brass I use the silphos moving the flametip slowly along the weld path. When it gets red and not yet cherry
    I start dippin and movin. I haven't burned through I think due to the
    fact I don't stay in one place with the flame tip.
    For steel to steel or steel to anything else I use the prefluxed brazing
    rod. I don't know the composition but it looks like brass or brass
    alloy.  I get a spot almost yellow before I dip the rod.  If you get the temp right you can lay the rod down in the path of the tip and it will
    flow nicely.
    I've had good luck with these methods.  YMMV

    Steve

    Gee , thanks guys for all the responses ... I guess I should have
    been more specific on the information I was seeking . I was looking for information on filler rod composition and type of flux to use .
    --
    Snag
    "You can lead a dummy to facts
    but you can't make him think."

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Jim Wilkins@21:1/5 to All on Thu May 11 06:35:51 2023
    "Snag" wrote in message news:u3hr0l$10b76$1@dont-email.me...

    I was making glass bead mandrels , TIG welding TIG electrode pieces
    to SS handles with Invar42 nickel/iron filler .
    She doesn't call me any more . I think she found out about my
    conservative leanings ... she's friends with the libs at the (dead)end
    of our road , might have seen my Trump flags <grin> .
    Snag

    --------------------

    They preach tolerance, but only for their own beliefs.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From David Billington@21:1/5 to Snag on Thu May 11 19:20:54 2023
    On 11/05/2023 05:23, Snag wrote:
    On 5/10/2023 5:53 PM, shiggins wrote:
    On 5/10/2023 5:17 PM, David Billington wrote:
    On 10/05/2023 21:44, Bob La Londe wrote:
    On 5/10/2023 1:33 PM, Snag wrote:
         Or anyone else with pertinent information ...
      Did I see you post something a while back about brazing carbide
    ? I have some brazed boring bars (for my boring head) that are
    chewed up , and a stash of high quality solid carbide router bits ... >>>>>    I have regular brazing rod with and without flux , regular
    brazing flux , and  phosphor bronze TIG filler .


    It wasn't me.  At least not in a meaningful or useful way. I
    thought you were the one talking about brazing carbide for a glass
    blower or something like that a while back.  Now I am all confused.

    The toughest thing I ever brazed was refrigeration lines with self
    fluxing silvphos15.  I did it with OA and kept blowing out lines in
    place.  In the end I made the assembly on the welding table and
    connected it in with flair fittings.  More recently a refrigeration
    tech said he has better luck with a turbo torch with just air
    instead of OA.

    Sorry that's all I got.


    When I've used Silphos rod for brazing copper I've just used the
    likes of a Benzomatic/Rotherberger propane/MAPP torch and no problem
    at all getting it to the right temperature even for larger tube like
    15mm plumbing tube. I tried to instruct someone else and she was
    like a deer in the headlight lights and overheated it even with one
    of those as she was concentrating all the heat in one spot, got it
    done in the end though once she got used to it. I have in the past
    used OA for soft soldering as it gave me better control but you need
    to know how to move the torch to control and get the heat where
    required.

    I've done a lot of brazing using the prefluxed brazing rod and silphos.
    I have 2 OA torch setups, a Victor Journeyman and a Uniweld. For both
    I use a "0" welding tip with 5# oxy and 5# acetylene. I prefer
    neutral flame color.
    For copper to copper and copper to brass I use the silphos moving the
    flametip slowly along the weld path. When it gets red and not yet
    cherry I start dippin and movin. I haven't burned through I think due
    to the fact I don't stay in one place with the flame tip.
    For steel to steel or steel to anything else I use the prefluxed
    brazing rod. I don't know the composition but it looks like brass or
    brass alloy.  I get a spot almost yellow before I dip the rod.  If
    you get the temp right you can lay the rod down in the path of the
    tip and it will flow nicely.
    I've had good luck with these methods.  YMMV

    Steve

      Gee , thanks guys for all the responses ... I guess I should have
    been more specific on the information I was seeking . I was looking
    for information on filler rod composition and type of flux to use .

    On the subject of flux I was told regarding silver soldering inserts to
    use a more active flux intended for stainless steel rather than one
    intended for steel.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Bob La Londe@21:1/5 to David Billington on Thu May 11 11:27:58 2023
    On 5/11/2023 11:20 AM, David Billington wrote:
    On 11/05/2023 05:23, Snag wrote:
    On 5/10/2023 5:53 PM, shiggins wrote:
    On 5/10/2023 5:17 PM, David Billington wrote:
    On 10/05/2023 21:44, Bob La Londe wrote:
    On 5/10/2023 1:33 PM, Snag wrote:
         Or anyone else with pertinent information ...
      Did I see you post something a while back about brazing carbide >>>>>> ? I have some brazed boring bars (for my boring head) that are
    chewed up , and a stash of high quality solid carbide router bits ... >>>>>>    I have regular brazing rod with and without flux , regular
    brazing flux , and  phosphor bronze TIG filler .


    It wasn't me.  At least not in a meaningful or useful way. I
    thought you were the one talking about brazing carbide for a glass
    blower or something like that a while back.  Now I am all confused. >>>>>
    The toughest thing I ever brazed was refrigeration lines with self
    fluxing silvphos15.  I did it with OA and kept blowing out lines in >>>>> place.  In the end I made the assembly on the welding table and
    connected it in with flair fittings.  More recently a refrigeration >>>>> tech said he has better luck with a turbo torch with just air
    instead of OA.

    Sorry that's all I got.


    When I've used Silphos rod for brazing copper I've just used the
    likes of a Benzomatic/Rotherberger propane/MAPP torch and no problem
    at all getting it to the right temperature even for larger tube like
    15mm plumbing tube. I tried to instruct someone else and she was
    like a deer in the headlight lights and overheated it even with one
    of those as she was concentrating all the heat in one spot, got it
    done in the end though once she got used to it. I have in the past
    used OA for soft soldering as it gave me better control but you need
    to know how to move the torch to control and get the heat where
    required.

    I've done a lot of brazing using the prefluxed brazing rod and silphos.
    I have 2 OA torch setups, a Victor Journeyman and a Uniweld. For both
    I use a "0" welding tip with 5# oxy and 5# acetylene. I prefer
    neutral flame color.
    For copper to copper and copper to brass I use the silphos moving the
    flametip slowly along the weld path. When it gets red and not yet
    cherry I start dippin and movin. I haven't burned through I think due
    to the fact I don't stay in one place with the flame tip.
    For steel to steel or steel to anything else I use the prefluxed
    brazing rod. I don't know the composition but it looks like brass or
    brass alloy.  I get a spot almost yellow before I dip the rod.  If
    you get the temp right you can lay the rod down in the path of the
    tip and it will flow nicely.
    I've had good luck with these methods.  YMMV

    Steve

      Gee , thanks guys for all the responses ... I guess I should have
    been more specific on the information I was seeking . I was looking
    for information on filler rod composition and type of flux to use .

    On the subject of flux I was told regarding silver soldering inserts to
    use a more active flux intended for stainless steel rather than one
    intended for steel.


    That makes sense since the chromium oxide layer is less reactive than
    the iron.
    --
    Bob La Londe
    CNC Molds N Stuff


    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software.
    www.avg.com

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