• Suitable for a countershaft ?

    From Snag@21:1/5 to All on Fri Jun 10 22:45:56 2022
    I ordered a piece of O1 drill rod to make a spindle for a mower deck
    , and realized today it's the right diameter to make a new countershaft
    for my Logan lathe ! I bought new oilite bushings a while back but
    didn't want to install them on the worn shaft I have in service . I
    guess it's done it's job well , it's over 70 years old - the lathe was
    built in November 1951 and as far as I know it's original .
    Is there any reason this material won't be good as a replacement countershaft ?
    --
    Snag
    “Free speech is my right to say what you don’t
    want to hear.” -George Orwell

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  • From Hul Tytus@21:1/5 to Snag on Sat Jun 11 08:06:18 2022
    err.. what's a counter shaft?

    Hul

    Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
    I ordered a piece of O1 drill rod to make a spindle for a mower deck
    , and realized today it's the right diameter to make a new countershaft
    for my Logan lathe ! I bought new oilite bushings a while back but
    didn't want to install them on the worn shaft I have in service . I
    guess it's done it's job well , it's over 70 years old - the lathe was
    built in November 1951 and as far as I know it's original .
    Is there any reason this material won't be good as a replacement countershaft ?
    --
    Snag
    ???Free speech is my right to say what you don???t
    want to hear.??? -George Orwell

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Jim Wilkins@21:1/5 to All on Sat Jun 11 07:21:19 2022
    "Snag" wrote in message news:t8136f$bqn$1@dont-email.me...

    I ordered a piece of O1 drill rod to make a spindle for a mower deck
    , and realized today it's the right diameter to make a new countershaft
    for my Logan lathe ! I bought new oilite bushings a while back but
    didn't want to install them on the worn shaft I have in service . I
    guess it's done it's job well , it's over 70 years old - the lathe was
    built in November 1951 and as far as I know it's original .
    Is there any reason this material won't be good as a replacement countershaft ?
    --
    Snag
    “Free speech is my right to say what you don’t
    want to hear.” -George Orwell
    -----------------------------

    I usually buy keyed shafting because it's cheaper and threads cleanly, but
    O1 should be fine and has a better finish. My first night-school lathe
    project was an O1 main shaft for a woodworking bandsaw that the previous
    owner didn't know to oil.

    Is this for the back gears or the motor drive? I rebuilt a partly
    cannibalized SB Heavy 10 headstock's backgear assembly and there's some
    tricky hand fitting involved.
    jsw

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  • From Snag@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Sat Jun 11 06:39:36 2022
    On 6/11/2022 6:21 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Snag"  wrote in message news:t8136f$bqn$1@dont-email.me...

      I ordered a piece of O1 drill rod to make a spindle for a mower deck
    , and realized today it's the right diameter to make a new countershaft
    for my Logan lathe ! I bought new oilite bushings a while back but
    didn't want to install them on the worn shaft I have in service . I
    guess it's done it's job well , it's over 70 years old - the lathe was
    built in November 1951 and as far as I know it's original .
      Is there any reason this material won't be good as a replacement countershaft ?
    -----------------

    I usually buy keyed shafting because it's cheaper and threads cleanly,
    but O1 should be fine and has a better finish. My first night-school
    lathe project was an O1 main shaft for a woodworking bandsaw that the
    previous owner didn't know to oil.

    Is this for the back gears or the motor drive? I rebuilt a partly
    cannibalized SB Heavy 10 headstock's backgear assembly and there's some
    tricky hand fitting involved.
    jsw

    --------------------


    It's for the motor drive . There are no keys on this one . I'm
    thinking about milling some flats for the set screws to bear on since
    this stock is probably harder than the original shaft .
    --
    Snag
    “Free speech is my right to say what you don’t
    want to hear.” -George Orwell

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Snag@21:1/5 to Hul Tytus on Sat Jun 11 06:30:35 2022
    On 6/11/2022 3:06 AM, Hul Tytus wrote:
    err.. what's a counter shaft?

    Hul

    Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
    I ordered a piece of O1 drill rod to make a spindle for a mower deck
    , and realized today it's the right diameter to make a new countershaft
    for my Logan lathe ! I bought new oilite bushings a while back but
    didn't want to install them on the worn shaft I have in service . I
    guess it's done it's job well , it's over 70 years old - the lathe was
    built in November 1951 and as far as I know it's original .
    Is there any reason this material won't be good as a replacement
    countershaft ?
    --
    Snag
    ???Free speech is my right to say what you don???t
    want to hear.??? -George Orwell

    It's a shaft that has pulleys on it for mechanical speed reduction .
    In this case it has a large pulley on one end that is driven by a
    smaller pulley on the motor and a 3 step flat belt pulley to drive the
    lathe spindle . It is also mounted on a pivoting yoke with a lever
    system that lets you tighten or loosen the flat belt .
    --
    Snag
    “Free speech is my right to say what you don’t
    want to hear.” -George Orwell

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From fos@sdf.org@21:1/5 to Snag on Sat Jun 11 15:28:03 2022
    On 2022-06-11, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
    On 6/11/2022 6:21 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Snag"  wrote in message news:t8136f$bqn$1@dont-email.me...

      I ordered a piece of O1 drill rod to make a spindle for a mower deck
    , and realized today it's the right diameter to make a new countershaft
    for my Logan lathe ! I bought new oilite bushings a while back but
    didn't want to install them on the worn shaft I have in service . I
    guess it's done it's job well , it's over 70 years old - the lathe was
    built in November 1951 and as far as I know it's original .
      Is there any reason this material won't be good as a replacement
    countershaft ?
    -----------------

    I usually buy keyed shafting because it's cheaper and threads cleanly,
    but O1 should be fine and has a better finish. My first night-school
    lathe project was an O1 main shaft for a woodworking bandsaw that the previous owner didn't know to oil.

    Is this for the back gears or the motor drive? I rebuilt a partly cannibalized SB Heavy 10 headstock's backgear assembly and there's some tricky hand fitting involved.
    jsw

    --------------------

    It's for the motor drive . There are no keys on this one . I'm
    thinking about milling some flats for the set screws to bear on since
    this stock is probably harder than the original shaft .

    i'd reach for 4140 pre-hard for a shaft which wasn't going to be heat
    treated. 8620 or 6150 for one that would be. annealed O1 isn't much better
    than mild steel for such an application but if all you have on hand is mild steel or annealed O1 i'd choose the O1.

    --
    fos@sdf.org
    SDF Public Access UNIX System - https://sdf.org

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  • From Snag@21:1/5 to fos@sdf.org on Sat Jun 11 14:06:54 2022
    On 6/11/2022 10:28 AM, fos@sdf.org wrote:
    On 2022-06-11, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
    On 6/11/2022 6:21 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Snag"  wrote in message news:t8136f$bqn$1@dont-email.me...

      I ordered a piece of O1 drill rod to make a spindle for a mower deck >>> , and realized today it's the right diameter to make a new countershaft
    for my Logan lathe ! I bought new oilite bushings a while back but
    didn't want to install them on the worn shaft I have in service . I
    guess it's done it's job well , it's over 70 years old - the lathe was
    built in November 1951 and as far as I know it's original .
      Is there any reason this material won't be good as a replacement
    countershaft ?
    -----------------

    I usually buy keyed shafting because it's cheaper and threads cleanly,
    but O1 should be fine and has a better finish. My first night-school
    lathe project was an O1 main shaft for a woodworking bandsaw that the
    previous owner didn't know to oil.

    Is this for the back gears or the motor drive? I rebuilt a partly
    cannibalized SB Heavy 10 headstock's backgear assembly and there's some
    tricky hand fitting involved.
    jsw

    --------------------

    It's for the motor drive . There are no keys on this one . I'm
    thinking about milling some flats for the set screws to bear on since
    this stock is probably harder than the original shaft .

    i'd reach for 4140 pre-hard for a shaft which wasn't going to be heat treated. 8620 or 6150 for one that would be. annealed O1 isn't much better than mild steel for such an application but if all you have on hand is mild steel or annealed O1 i'd choose the O1.


    Well , I had this on hand from another project , so I used it . And it
    made a dandy shaft , the lathe runs smoother now .
    --
    Snag
    “Free speech is my right to say what you don’t
    want to hear.” -George Orwell

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Hul Tytus@21:1/5 to Snag on Sun Jun 12 00:19:22 2022
    Thanks, Snag.

    Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
    On 6/11/2022 3:06 AM, Hul Tytus wrote:
    err.. what's a counter shaft?

    Hul

    Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:
    I ordered a piece of O1 drill rod to make a spindle for a mower deck
    , and realized today it's the right diameter to make a new countershaft
    for my Logan lathe ! I bought new oilite bushings a while back but
    didn't want to install them on the worn shaft I have in service . I
    guess it's done it's job well , it's over 70 years old - the lathe was
    built in November 1951 and as far as I know it's original .
    Is there any reason this material won't be good as a replacement
    countershaft ?
    --
    Snag
    ???Free speech is my right to say what you don???t
    want to hear.??? -George Orwell

    It's a shaft that has pulleys on it for mechanical speed reduction .
    In this case it has a large pulley on one end that is driven by a
    smaller pulley on the motor and a 3 step flat belt pulley to drive the
    lathe spindle . It is also mounted on a pivoting yoke with a lever
    system that lets you tighten or loosen the flat belt .
    --
    Snag
    ???Free speech is my right to say what you don???t
    want to hear.??? -George Orwell

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Bob La Londe@21:1/5 to Snag on Sun Jun 12 07:32:03 2022
    On 6/11/2022 4:39 AM, Snag wrote:
    On 6/11/2022 6:21 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Snag"  wrote in message news:t8136f$bqn$1@dont-email.me...

       I ordered a piece of O1 drill rod to make a spindle for a mower deck
    , and realized today it's the right diameter to make a new countershaft
    for my Logan lathe ! I bought new oilite bushings a while back but
    didn't want to install them on the worn shaft I have in service . I
    guess it's done it's job well , it's over 70 years old - the lathe was
    built in November 1951 and as far as I know it's original .
       Is there any reason this material won't be good as a replacement
    countershaft ?
     -----------------

    I usually buy keyed shafting because it's cheaper and threads cleanly,
    but O1 should be fine and has a better finish. My first night-school
    lathe project was an O1 main shaft for a woodworking bandsaw that the previous owner didn't know to oil.

    Is this for the back gears or the motor drive? I rebuilt a partly cannibalized SB Heavy 10 headstock's backgear assembly and there's some tricky hand fitting involved.
    jsw

    --------------------


      It's for the motor drive . There are no keys on this one . I'm
    thinking about milling some flats for the set screws to bear on since
    this stock is probably harder than the original shaft .

    Flats or dimples are a good idea for set screws anyway. That way if
    they raise a burr the shaft can still be disassembled. Hopefully without
    the use of a hammer.

    --
    This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
    https://www.avg.com

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  • From Snag@21:1/5 to Bob La Londe on Sun Jun 12 13:02:02 2022
    On 6/12/2022 9:32 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
    On 6/11/2022 4:39 AM, Snag wrote:
    On 6/11/2022 6:21 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Snag"  wrote in message news:t8136f$bqn$1@dont-email.me...

       I ordered a piece of O1 drill rod to make a spindle for a mower deck >>> , and realized today it's the right diameter to make a new countershaft
    for my Logan lathe ! I bought new oilite bushings a while back but
    didn't want to install them on the worn shaft I have in service . I
    guess it's done it's job well , it's over 70 years old - the lathe was
    built in November 1951 and as far as I know it's original .
       Is there any reason this material won't be good as a replacement
    countershaft ?
      -----------------

    I usually buy keyed shafting because it's cheaper and threads cleanly,
    but O1 should be fine and has a better finish. My first night-school
    lathe project was an O1 main shaft for a woodworking bandsaw that the
    previous owner didn't know to oil.

    Is this for the back gears or the motor drive? I rebuilt a partly
    cannibalized SB Heavy 10 headstock's backgear assembly and there's
    some tricky hand fitting involved.
    jsw

    --------------------


       It's for the motor drive . There are no keys on this one . I'm
    thinking about milling some flats for the set screws to bear on since
    this stock is probably harder than the original shaft .

    Flats or dimples are a good idea for set screws anyway.  That way if
    they raise a burr the shaft can still be disassembled. Hopefully without
    the use of a hammer.


    Or a gear puller ...
    --
    Snag
    “Free speech is my right to say what you don’t
    want to hear.” -George Orwell

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Jim Wilkins@21:1/5 to All on Sun Jun 12 15:18:26 2022
  • From Snag@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Sun Jun 12 16:14:30 2022
    On 6/12/2022 2:18 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/logan-lathe-countershaft-bushings-getting-hot.163555/


    https://redlinerennsport.homestead.com/LoganDriveboxLateColored.jpg


    I have an earlier (shipped to Monkey Wards in November 1951) model
    than that 2nd link , and the side that supports the driven end of the
    shaft does run a bit warmer . Never been hot enough to burn me though ...
    --
    Snag
    “Free speech is my right to say what you don’t
    want to hear.” -George Orwell

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Snag@21:1/5 to Clare Snyder on Mon Jun 13 22:36:06 2022
    On 6/13/2022 10:20 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
    On Sun, 12 Jun 2022 13:02:02 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:

    On 6/12/2022 9:32 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
    On 6/11/2022 4:39 AM, Snag wrote:
    On 6/11/2022 6:21 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Snag"  wrote in message news:t8136f$bqn$1@dont-email.me...

       I ordered a piece of O1 drill rod to make a spindle for a mower deck
    , and realized today it's the right diameter to make a new countershaft >>>>> for my Logan lathe ! I bought new oilite bushings a while back but
    didn't want to install them on the worn shaft I have in service . I
    guess it's done it's job well , it's over 70 years old - the lathe was >>>>> built in November 1951 and as far as I know it's original .
       Is there any reason this material won't be good as a replacement >>>>> countershaft ?
      -----------------

    I usually buy keyed shafting because it's cheaper and threads cleanly, >>>> but O1 should be fine and has a better finish. My first night-school
    lathe project was an O1 main shaft for a woodworking bandsaw that the
    previous owner didn't know to oil.

    Is this for the back gears or the motor drive? I rebuilt a partly
    cannibalized SB Heavy 10 headstock's backgear assembly and there's
    some tricky hand fitting involved.
    jsw

    --------------------


       It's for the motor drive . There are no keys on this one . I'm
    thinking about milling some flats for the set screws to bear on since
    this stock is probably harder than the original shaft .

    Flats or dimples are a good idea for set screws anyway.  That way if
    they raise a burr the shaft can still be disassembled. Hopefully without >>> the use of a hammer.


    Or a gear puller ...
    Or a cutting torch - - -


    It can't be tight if it's a liquid !
    --
    Snag
    “Free speech is my right to say what you don’t
    want to hear.” -George Orwell

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Clare Snyder@21:1/5 to Snag on Mon Jun 13 23:20:38 2022
    On Sun, 12 Jun 2022 13:02:02 -0500, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:

    On 6/12/2022 9:32 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
    On 6/11/2022 4:39 AM, Snag wrote:
    On 6/11/2022 6:21 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Snag" wrote in message news:t8136f$bqn$1@dont-email.me...

    I ordered a piece of O1 drill rod to make a spindle for a mower deck >>>> , and realized today it's the right diameter to make a new countershaft >>>> for my Logan lathe ! I bought new oilite bushings a while back but
    didn't want to install them on the worn shaft I have in service . I
    guess it's done it's job well , it's over 70 years old - the lathe was >>>> built in November 1951 and as far as I know it's original .
    Is there any reason this material won't be good as a replacement
    countershaft ?
    -----------------

    I usually buy keyed shafting because it's cheaper and threads cleanly,
    but O1 should be fine and has a better finish. My first night-school
    lathe project was an O1 main shaft for a woodworking bandsaw that the
    previous owner didn't know to oil.

    Is this for the back gears or the motor drive? I rebuilt a partly
    cannibalized SB Heavy 10 headstock's backgear assembly and there's
    some tricky hand fitting involved.
    jsw

    --------------------


    It's for the motor drive . There are no keys on this one . I'm
    thinking about milling some flats for the set screws to bear on since
    this stock is probably harder than the original shaft .

    Flats or dimples are a good idea for set screws anyway. That way if
    they raise a burr the shaft can still be disassembled. Hopefully without
    the use of a hammer.


    Or a gear puller ...
    Or a cutting torch - - -

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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