Yesterday I found myself cleaning up a bit of square tube in
preparation for welding and later paint. It was outside, but in SW
Arizona, that just means it has developed a small amount of protective
rust over the mill scale.
I started with an angle grinder and a flap disc. It made short work
of the light loose rust, but would hardly touch the mill scale. It
also showed some rust down "in the" the mill scale. I probably could
have stopped there, but I got carried away with myself. This stuff
welds really nice if you have bright shiny metal and takes a good
paint coat as well with an etching primer, and proper cure times.
I probably I could have just used extend or some other rust
neutralizing primer after knocking off the loose rust, but this
construct will be going into a humid environment.
I noticed a fresh flap disc stripped rust, and mill scale amazingly
fast. It did more work with less effort in the first minute or two
than it did in the next ten. Now the flap disc was still nearly new,
but it was performing like one that was half worn away. There was
still plenty of grit, but the edge was mostly the flaps rather than
the grit, and the face was the same, but also gummed up with mill scale.
I am NOT trying to get longer life out of a flap disc. I am trying to
get more time performing like the first minute or two of a new disc.
I don't care if the total life of the disc is less. Is there a
practical way to dress these so that you can expose more grit
quickly. I tried spinning it against a wire wheel on a bench
grinder. The result was less than amazing.
Sans the solution I am looking for is there a better disc for
stripping metal than an abbrasive flap disc? I can do the work with a grinding wheel, but its much more skilled to avoid gouging the base
metal and doing damage. I tend to only use a grinding wheel to make
the bevels before welding.
In rec.crafts.metalworking Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> wrote:
Yesterday I found myself cleaning up a bit of square tube in preparation
Snap childish temper tantrum
Yesterday I found myself cleaning up a bit of square tube in preparation
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:t5gles$nd7$1@gioia.aioe.org...
Sans the solution I am looking for is there a better disc for stripping
metal than an abbrasive flap disc? I can do the work with a grinding
wheel, but its much more skilled to avoid gouging the base metal and
doing damage. I tend to only use a grinding wheel to make the bevels
before welding.
----------------
I cleaned the paint and rust from the 4" channels for the gantry hoist
track with an HF "2 in. Mini Orbital Air Sander" and a 2" coarse
scouring pad, the only power sander I own that fit flat inside the
channels. It was fast enough on the outside to satisfy my laid-back
retiree working rate. After stripping the four 8' channels it seemed
clogged with paint but still cut well enough to remove the leak-causing corrosion from the rims of the aluminum motorcycle wheels the sawmill
blade runs on. I don't remember if there was mill scale under the paint
on the channels. The pad left shiny metal.
The HF tool was meant to be double action but it cut faster with the
rubber disk mounted to seat on the outer bearing race and spin instead
of oscillating.
The sander and the 2" and 3" pad kits don't work well together as
received. I made a stub arbor of 1/4-20 threaded rod and used nuts and washers to control whether the pad spun or oscillated.
It seemed that a 3" pad on a 2" backing conformed to inside curves
better and may have been better on edge for shallow rust pits. Although
the used pallet rack channels had been stored outdoors they weren't
pitted enough to require my needle scaler or sandblaster.
My faster hand held metal flattening tool is a 7" angle grinder with a
saucer wheel. Unlike with the usual disk I can see and feel when it
makes contact around the arc and is cutting flat. I use it where welds
will be bolted together or support something, like the warped engine
mount plate on my second-hand log splitter.
Cleaning square tubing seems like a belt sander task.
On 11/05/2022 16:41, Bob La Londe wrote:
Yesterday I found myself cleaning up a bit of square tube inI know what you're experiencing with flap discs and have used this type
preparation for welding and later paint. It was outside, but in SW
Arizona, that just means it has developed a small amount of protective
rust over the mill scale.
I started with an angle grinder and a flap disc. It made short work
of the light loose rust, but would hardly touch the mill scale. It
also showed some rust down "in the" the mill scale. I probably could
have stopped there, but I got carried away with myself. This stuff
welds really nice if you have bright shiny metal and takes a good
paint coat as well with an etching primer, and proper cure times.
I probably I could have just used extend or some other rust
neutralizing primer after knocking off the loose rust, but this
construct will be going into a humid environment.
I noticed a fresh flap disc stripped rust, and mill scale amazingly
fast. It did more work with less effort in the first minute or two
than it did in the next ten. Now the flap disc was still nearly new,
but it was performing like one that was half worn away. There was
still plenty of grit, but the edge was mostly the flaps rather than
the grit, and the face was the same, but also gummed up with mill scale.
I am NOT trying to get longer life out of a flap disc. I am trying to
get more time performing like the first minute or two of a new disc. I
don't care if the total life of the disc is less. Is there a practical
way to dress these so that you can expose more grit quickly. I tried
spinning it against a wire wheel on a bench grinder. The result was
less than amazing.
Sans the solution I am looking for is there a better disc for
stripping metal than an abbrasive flap disc? I can do the work with a
grinding wheel, but its much more skilled to avoid gouging the base
metal and doing damage. I tend to only use a grinding wheel to make
the bevels before welding.
of disc to good effect
https://www.weldequip.com/cleaning-fleece-115mm.htm . I've seen many of
this type for sale on ebay and most don't have a high enough speed
rating for use on a 4.5" grinder so check what you get if you try one.
On 5/11/2022 9:20 AM, David Billington wrote:
On 11/05/2022 16:41, Bob La Londe wrote:
Yesterday I found myself cleaning up a bit of square tube inI know what you're experiencing with flap discs and have used this
preparation for welding and later paint. It was outside, but in SW
Arizona, that just means it has developed a small amount of
protective rust over the mill scale.
I started with an angle grinder and a flap disc. It made short work
of the light loose rust, but would hardly touch the mill scale. It
also showed some rust down "in the" the mill scale. I probably
could have stopped there, but I got carried away with myself. This
stuff welds really nice if you have bright shiny metal and takes a
good paint coat as well with an etching primer, and proper cure times.
I probably I could have just used extend or some other rust
neutralizing primer after knocking off the loose rust, but this
construct will be going into a humid environment.
I noticed a fresh flap disc stripped rust, and mill scale amazingly
fast. It did more work with less effort in the first minute or two
than it did in the next ten. Now the flap disc was still nearly
new, but it was performing like one that was half worn away. There
was still plenty of grit, but the edge was mostly the flaps rather
than the grit, and the face was the same, but also gummed up with
mill scale.
I am NOT trying to get longer life out of a flap disc. I am trying
to get more time performing like the first minute or two of a new
disc. I don't care if the total life of the disc is less. Is there a
practical way to dress these so that you can expose more grit
quickly. I tried spinning it against a wire wheel on a bench
grinder. The result was less than amazing.
Sans the solution I am looking for is there a better disc for
stripping metal than an abbrasive flap disc? I can do the work with
a grinding wheel, but its much more skilled to avoid gouging the
base metal and doing damage. I tend to only use a grinding wheel to
make the bevels before welding.
type of disc to good effect
https://www.weldequip.com/cleaning-fleece-115mm.htm . I've seen many
of this type for sale on ebay and most don't have a high enough speed
rating for use on a 4.5" grinder so check what you get if you try one.
I looked at that. I've seen those type of wheels before. How well
does it work on mill scale.
On 5/11/2022 12:58 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 5/11/2022 10:23 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:t5gles$nd7$1@gioia.aioe.org...
Sans the solution I am looking for is there a better disc for stripping
metal than an abbrasive flap disc? I can do the work with a grinding
wheel, but its much more skilled to avoid gouging the base metal and
doing damage. I tend to only use a grinding wheel to make the bevels
before welding.
----------------
I cleaned the paint and rust from the 4" channels for the gantry
hoist track with an HF "2 in. Mini Orbital Air Sander" and a 2"
coarse scouring pad, the only power sander I own that fit flat inside
the channels. It was fast enough on the outside to satisfy my
laid-back retiree working rate. After stripping the four 8' channels
it seemed clogged with paint but still cut well enough to remove the
leak-causing corrosion from the rims of the aluminum motorcycle
wheels the sawmill blade runs on. I don't remember if there was mill
scale under the paint on the channels. The pad left shiny metal.
The HF tool was meant to be double action but it cut faster with the
rubber disk mounted to seat on the outer bearing race and spin
instead of oscillating.
The sander and the 2" and 3" pad kits don't work well together as
received. I made a stub arbor of 1/4-20 threaded rod and used nuts
and washers to control whether the pad spun or oscillated.
It seemed that a 3" pad on a 2" backing conformed to inside curves
better and may have been better on edge for shallow rust pits.
Although the used pallet rack channels had been stored outdoors they
weren't pitted enough to require my needle scaler or sandblaster.
My faster hand held metal flattening tool is a 7" angle grinder with
a saucer wheel. Unlike with the usual disk I can see and feel when it
makes contact around the arc and is cutting flat. I use it where
welds will be bolted together or support something, like the warped
engine mount plate on my second-hand log splitter.
Cleaning square tubing seems like a belt sander task.
I had not thought of that. I have one around somewhere, but have not
used it since my last cabinet building project a few years ago.
If it has a dust bag , remove it and tape over the outlet . I learned
the exciting way ...
On 5/11/2022 10:23 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:t5gles$nd7$1@gioia.aioe.org...
Sans the solution I am looking for is there a better disc for stripping
metal than an abbrasive flap disc? I can do the work with a grinding
wheel, but its much more skilled to avoid gouging the base metal and
doing damage. I tend to only use a grinding wheel to make the bevels
before welding.
----------------
I cleaned the paint and rust from the 4" channels for the gantry hoist
track with an HF "2 in. Mini Orbital Air Sander" and a 2" coarse
scouring pad, the only power sander I own that fit flat inside the
channels. It was fast enough on the outside to satisfy my laid-back
retiree working rate. After stripping the four 8' channels it seemed
clogged with paint but still cut well enough to remove the
leak-causing corrosion from the rims of the aluminum motorcycle wheels
the sawmill blade runs on. I don't remember if there was mill scale
under the paint on the channels. The pad left shiny metal.
The HF tool was meant to be double action but it cut faster with the
rubber disk mounted to seat on the outer bearing race and spin instead
of oscillating.
The sander and the 2" and 3" pad kits don't work well together as
received. I made a stub arbor of 1/4-20 threaded rod and used nuts and
washers to control whether the pad spun or oscillated.
It seemed that a 3" pad on a 2" backing conformed to inside curves
better and may have been better on edge for shallow rust pits.
Although the used pallet rack channels had been stored outdoors they
weren't pitted enough to require my needle scaler or sandblaster.
My faster hand held metal flattening tool is a 7" angle grinder with a
saucer wheel. Unlike with the usual disk I can see and feel when it
makes contact around the arc and is cutting flat. I use it where welds
will be bolted together or support something, like the warped engine
mount plate on my second-hand log splitter.
Cleaning square tubing seems like a belt sander task.
I had not thought of that. I have one around somewhere, but have not
used it since my last cabinet building project a few years ago.
Cleaning square tubing seems like a belt sander task.
On 5/11/2022 1:30 PM, Snag wrote:
On 5/11/2022 12:58 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 5/11/2022 10:23 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:t5gles$nd7$1@gioia.aioe.org...
Sans the solution I am looking for is there a better disc for stripping >>>> metal than an abbrasive flap disc? I can do the work with a grinding >>>> wheel, but its much more skilled to avoid gouging the base metal and
doing damage. I tend to only use a grinding wheel to make the bevels >>>> before welding.
----------------
I cleaned the paint and rust from the 4" channels for the gantry
hoist track with an HF "2 in. Mini Orbital Air Sander" and a 2"
coarse scouring pad, the only power sander I own that fit flat
inside the channels. It was fast enough on the outside to satisfy my
laid-back retiree working rate. After stripping the four 8' channels
it seemed clogged with paint but still cut well enough to remove the
leak-causing corrosion from the rims of the aluminum motorcycle
wheels the sawmill blade runs on. I don't remember if there was mill
scale under the paint on the channels. The pad left shiny metal.
The HF tool was meant to be double action but it cut faster with the
rubber disk mounted to seat on the outer bearing race and spin
instead of oscillating.
The sander and the 2" and 3" pad kits don't work well together as
received. I made a stub arbor of 1/4-20 threaded rod and used nuts
and washers to control whether the pad spun or oscillated.
It seemed that a 3" pad on a 2" backing conformed to inside curves
better and may have been better on edge for shallow rust pits.
Although the used pallet rack channels had been stored outdoors they
weren't pitted enough to require my needle scaler or sandblaster.
My faster hand held metal flattening tool is a 7" angle grinder with
a saucer wheel. Unlike with the usual disk I can see and feel when
it makes contact around the arc and is cutting flat. I use it where
welds will be bolted together or support something, like the warped
engine mount plate on my second-hand log splitter.
Cleaning square tubing seems like a belt sander task.
I had not thought of that. I have one around somewhere, but have not
used it since my last cabinet building project a few years ago.
If it has a dust bag , remove it and tape over the outlet . I learned
the exciting way ...
Did you ignite a bag of sawdust or shoot sparks down your shirt? Either
way it sounds exciting. Did you by any chance get video?
Yesterday I found myself cleaning up a bit of square tube in preparation
for welding and later paint. It was outside, but in SW Arizona, that
just means it has developed a small amount of protective rust over the
mill scale.
I started with an angle grinder and a flap disc. It made short work of
the light loose rust, but would hardly touch the mill scale. It also
showed some rust down "in the" the mill scale. I probably could have stopped there, but I got carried away with myself. This stuff welds
really nice if you have bright shiny metal and takes a good paint coat
as well with an etching primer, and proper cure times.
I probably I could have just used extend or some other rust neutralizing primer after knocking off the loose rust, but this construct will be
going into a humid environment.
I noticed a fresh flap disc stripped rust, and mill scale amazingly
fast. It did more work with less effort in the first minute or two than
it did in the next ten. Now the flap disc was still nearly new, but it
was performing like one that was half worn away. There was still plenty
of grit, but the edge was mostly the flaps rather than the grit, and the
face was the same, but also gummed up with mill scale.
I am NOT trying to get longer life out of a flap disc. I am trying to
get more time performing like the first minute or two of a new disc. I don't care if the total life of the disc is less. Is there a practical
way to dress these so that you can expose more grit quickly. I tried spinning it against a wire wheel on a bench grinder. The result was
less than amazing.
Sans the solution I am looking for is there a better disc for stripping
metal than an abbrasive flap disc? I can do the work with a grinding
wheel, but its much more skilled to avoid gouging the base metal and
doing damage. I tend to only use a grinding wheel to make the bevels
before welding.
I
don't get 10-20 year paint durability on auto body work unless I
sand-blast, which also cleans out the rust pits better than they do.
"David Billington" wrote in message news:t5gnp1$71v$1@dont-email.me...
I know what you're experiencing with flap discs and have used this type
of disc to good effect
https://www.weldequip.com/cleaning-fleece-115mm.htm . I've seen many of
this type for sale on ebay and most don't have a high enough speed
rating for use on a 4.5" grinder so check what you get if you try one.
Good stuff, though to me they are over-priced and too short-lived,
perhaps from being sheared down by rust-through holes they
uncovered.
I don't get 10-20 year paint durability on auto body work unless I sand-blast, which also cleans out the rust pits better than they do.
I thought that flap discs worked by having the used-up edges wear away
and expose new grit. But that never happens for me. The various
things that I've tried to expose new grit have never worked. So
either I'm missing something or they just don't work that way. If I'm missing something, I would really appreciate being clued in. If they
don't work that way, what is the point of having flaps?
I don't get 10-20 year paint durability on auto body work unless I sand-blast, which also cleans out the rust pits better than they do.
"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> writes:
"David Billington" wrote in message news:t5gnp1$71v$1@dont-email.me...I've been using these for many years, first noticed when B&D started
I know what you're experiencing with flap discs and have used this type
of disc to good effect
https://www.weldequip.com/cleaning-fleece-115mm.htm . I've seen many of
this type for sale on ebay and most don't have a high enough speed
rating for use on a 4.5" grinder so check what you get if you try one.
selling a consumer version in the 70s, later same product from 3M and Germany. They're the only thing that will remove mill scale without
gouging the metal.
But I haven't seen them as angle grinder wheels. I use them on a
high-speed end grinder, ones meant for that use. Just the edge of the
wheel hits the metal. Any steel in otherwise forged ornamental work
that is going to be left unworked can be stripped of mill scale
leaving only faint linear striations, no overlapping partial-circualar grinder marks. Among other things, I've made 16 ga. panels stripped
this way and blued with Oxpho-Blue(tm). Blueing would take poorly/unevenly if the mill scale were not stripped and angle grinder marks would look
really bad.
You have to have supporting widgets -- collars with spurs -- to hold
them because they -- at least all the ones I've bought -- come without
any hub.
Good stuff, though to me they are over-priced and too short-lived,Yeah, you do have to be careful to avoid sharp (or any) edges, holes, protrusions which eat them away very quickly. Where you can do that,
perhaps from being sheared down by rust-through holes they
uncovered.
they last pretty well.
I don't get 10-20 year paint durability on auto body work unless II've used bead blasting for forged ornamental work but, where
sand-blast, which also cleans out the rust pits better than they do.
possible, I prefer phosphoric acid pickle. Probably overkill for
typical structuraal welding work and it does NOT work all that well on
mill scale.
Yesterday I found myself cleaning up a bit of square tube in preparation
for welding and later paint. It was outside, but in SW Arizona, that
just means it has developed a small amount of protective rust over the
mill scale.
I started with an angle grinder and a flap disc. It made short work of
the light loose rust, but would hardly touch the mill scale. It also
showed some rust down "in the" the mill scale. I probably could have stopped there, but I got carried away with myself. This stuff welds
really nice if you have bright shiny metal and takes a good paint coat
as well with an etching primer, and proper cure times.
I probably I could have just used extend or some other rust neutralizing primer after knocking off the loose rust, but this construct will be
going into a humid environment.
I noticed a fresh flap disc stripped rust, and mill scale amazingly
fast. It did more work with less effort in the first minute or two than
it did in the next ten. Now the flap disc was still nearly new, but it
was performing like one that was half worn away. There was still plenty
of grit, but the edge was mostly the flaps rather than the grit, and the
face was the same, but also gummed up with mill scale.
I am NOT trying to get longer life out of a flap disc. I am trying to
get more time performing like the first minute or two of a new disc. I don't care if the total life of the disc is less. Is there a practical
way to dress these so that you can expose more grit quickly. I tried spinning it against a wire wheel on a bench grinder. The result was
less than amazing.
Sans the solution I am looking for is there a better disc for stripping
metal than an abbrasive flap disc? I can do the work with a grinding
wheel, but its much more skilled to avoid gouging the base metal and
doing damage. I tend to only use a grinding wheel to make the bevels
before welding.
"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> writes:
"David Billington" wrote in message news:t5gnp1$71v$1@dont-email.me...
I know what you're experiencing with flap discs and have used this type
of disc to good effect
https://www.weldequip.com/cleaning-fleece-115mm.htm . I've seen many of
this type for sale on ebay and most don't have a high enough speed
rating for use on a 4.5" grinder so check what you get if you try one.
I've been using these for many years, first noticed when B&D started
selling a consumer version in the 70s, later same product from 3M and >Germany. They're the only thing that will remove mill scale without
gouging the metal.
But I haven't seen them as angle grinder wheels. I use them on a
high-speed end grinder, ones meant for that use. Just the edge of the
wheel hits the metal. Any steel in otherwise forged ornamental work
that is going to be left unworked can be stripped of mill scale
leaving only faint linear striations, no overlapping partial-circualar >grinder marks. Among other things, I've made 16 ga. panels stripped
this way and blued with Oxpho-Blue(tm). Blueing would take poorly/unevenly >if the mill scale were not stripped and angle grinder marks would look
really bad.
You have to have supporting widgets -- collars with spurs -- to hold
them because they -- at least all the ones I've bought -- come without
any hub.
Good stuff, though to me they are over-priced and too short-lived,
perhaps from being sheared down by rust-through holes they
uncovered.
Yeah, you do have to be careful to avoid sharp (or any) edges, holes, >protrusions which eat them away very quickly. Where you can do that,
they last pretty well.
On body work I pickle after either blasting OR grinding/sandingI don't get 10-20 year paint durability on auto body work unless I
sand-blast, which also cleans out the rust pits better than they do.
I've used bead blasting for forged ornamental work but, where
possible, I prefer phosphoric acid pickle. Probably overkill for
typical structuraal welding work and it does NOT work all that well on
mill scale.
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