• Use of rebreathers on high altitude climbs

    From swichkite@hotmail.com@21:1/5 to All on Sun Jan 6 15:39:52 2019
    They are used in technical diving and also safety escape systems, The main advantages of rebreather diving are extended gas endurance, and lack of bubbles. Rebreathers are generally used for scuba applications, but are also occasionally used for bailout
    systems for surface supplied diving

    They take loads of training and skill the systems are used in deeper dives or long times under water, they are a lot smaller and less bulky than taking normal mixed gas systems that used in deep sat diving as you need less gas the system scrubs and
    recycles the air breathed out as we don’t use all the oxygen that’s breathed out, the air that is inhaled is about 20-percent oxygen, and the air that is exhaled is about 15-percent oxygen, so about 5-percent of the volume of air is consumed in each
    breath and converted to carbon dioxide.
    Therefore, a human being uses about 550 liters of pure oxygen (19 cubic feet) per day.ey

    They work well but can be temperamental they have to be constantly checked and monitored if they stop working they can kill quite quickly due to breathing in carbon dioxide and lose consciousness and game over
    But definitely something that takes a lot of training and skills

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  • From swichkite@hotmail.com@21:1/5 to All on Sun Jan 6 15:24:11 2019
    Hi
    Don’t mean to be picky but Rebreathers are definitely not Suba it’s the same as say some one that is a hill Walker is a mountaineer

    They are used in technical diving,the systems are used more in deeper dives, they are a lot smaller and less bulky than taking normal mixed gas systems that used in deep sat diving as you need less gas the system scrubs and recycles the air breathed out
    as we don’t use all the oxygen that’s breathed out, the air that is inhaled is about 20-percent oxygen, and the air that is exhaled is about 15-percent oxygen, so about 5-percent of the volume of air is consumed in each breath and converted to carbon
    dioxide. Therefore, a human being uses about 550 liters of pure oxygen (19 cubic feet) per day.ey
    They work well but can be temperamental they have to be constantly checked and monitored if they stop working they can kill quite quickly due to breathing in carbon dioxide and lose consciousness and game over
    But definitely something that takes a lot of training and skills

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  • From hlillywh45@gmail.com@21:1/5 to swic...@hotmail.com on Tue Jan 8 15:04:32 2019
    On Sunday, January 6, 2019 at 3:39:53 PM UTC-8, swic...@hotmail.com wrote:
    They are used in technical diving and also safety escape systems, The main advantages of rebreather diving are extended gas endurance, and lack of bubbles. Rebreathers are generally used for scuba applications, but are also occasionally used for
    bailout systems for surface supplied diving

    They take loads of training and skill the systems are used in deeper dives or long times under water, they are a lot smaller and less bulky than taking normal mixed gas systems that used in deep sat diving as you need less gas the system scrubs and
    recycles the air breathed out as we don’t use all the oxygen that’s breathed out, the air that is inhaled is about 20-percent oxygen, and the air that is exhaled is about 15-percent oxygen, so about 5-percent of the volume of air is consumed in each
    breath and converted to carbon dioxide.
    Therefore, a human being uses about 550 liters of pure oxygen (19 cubic feet) per day.ey

    They work well but can be temperamental they have to be constantly checked and monitored if they stop working they can kill quite quickly due to breathing in carbon dioxide and lose consciousness and game over
    But definitely something that takes a lot of training and skills

    Well, I doubt that the people posting on this thread ten years ago will see our comments. However, I will say that I have a hard time seeing the advantages of a rebreather for high altitude mountaineering. It's more complicated than a normal oxygen set-up and the advantages for diving don't apply. The primary advantage for a diver is stealth. No bubbles and it's quieter. Not likely to be an issue at 27,000 feet on K-2. It also has the advantage that the diver need carry only oxygen since it re-uses the nitrogen, again not an issue at altitude.
    For a good summary of advantages for divers, see https://oceanicventures.com/rebreather-scuba-diving-the-advantages-of-silent-scuba-diving/

    One thing that I suspect might be useful at altitude is something I've seen advertised for medical uses. It concentrates oxygen from the air, freeing the patient from the weight of tanks and need to change tanks so frequently. Would that work at 27,000 feet? I don't know but suspect it would. Batteries might
    be an issue, however.

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  • From hlillywh45@gmail.com@21:1/5 to hlill...@gmail.com on Tue Jan 8 15:32:06 2019
    On Tuesday, January 8, 2019 at 3:04:33 PM UTC-8, hlill...@gmail.com wrote:
    On Sunday, January 6, 2019 at 3:39:53 PM UTC-8, swic...@hotmail.com wrote:
    They are used in technical diving and also safety escape systems, The main advantages of rebreather diving are extended gas endurance, and lack of bubbles. Rebreathers are generally used for scuba applications, but are also occasionally used for
    bailout systems for surface supplied diving

    They take loads of training and skill the systems are used in deeper dives or long times under water, they are a lot smaller and less bulky than taking normal mixed gas systems that used in deep sat diving as you need less gas the system scrubs and
    recycles the air breathed out as we don’t use all the oxygen that’s breathed out, the air that is inhaled is about 20-percent oxygen, and the air that is exhaled is about 15-percent oxygen, so about 5-percent of the volume of air is consumed in each
    breath and converted to carbon dioxide.
    Therefore, a human being uses about 550 liters of pure oxygen (19 cubic feet) per day.ey

    They work well but can be temperamental they have to be constantly checked and monitored if they stop working they can kill quite quickly due to breathing in carbon dioxide and lose consciousness and game over
    But definitely something that takes a lot of training and skills

    Well, I doubt that the people posting on this thread ten years ago will see our
    comments. However, I will say that I have a hard time seeing the advantages of
    a rebreather for high altitude mountaineering. It's more complicated than a normal oxygen set-up and the advantages for diving don't apply. The primary advantage for a diver is stealth. No bubbles and it's quieter. Not likely to be
    an issue at 27,000 feet on K-2. It also has the advantage that the diver need carry only oxygen since it re-uses the nitrogen, again not an issue at altitude.
    For a good summary of advantages for divers, see https://oceanicventures.com/rebreather-scuba-diving-the-advantages-of-silent-scuba-diving/

    One thing that I suspect might be useful at altitude is something I've seen advertised for medical uses. It concentrates oxygen from the air, freeing the patient from the weight of tanks and need to change tanks so frequently. Would
    that work at 27,000 feet? I don't know but suspect it would. Batteries might be an issue, however.

    Oops. Actually make that twenty years ago. I doubt posters from then are reading
    this.

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  • From lee.thompson.media@gmail.com@21:1/5 to All on Sat Feb 16 10:01:20 2019
    Just watching Everest, I’m a diver not a climber. You could build a rebreather with two 2 litre tanks that would last you a day, the partial pressures of the o2 would change per pressure gradient; the same as under the sea so you are always breathing
    the correct mix for your altitude. Weight would be an issue to combat but you are already varying one 3lt tank and demand valve so you could make it work for a similar weight. The issue would be if it went wrong, same as under the sea, you die.

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  • From lee.thompson.media@gmail.com@21:1/5 to All on Sat Feb 16 10:03:49 2019
    The primary benefit is nothing to do with silence and bubbles unless you are a photographer, it’s all to do with the correct Po2 at all times, you do less deco at depth:
    It makes deadly dives possible and rescues the risk of decompression I’llness and reduces weight as you don’t need 5 tanks of different mix hanging off you to do the same dive profile, each swap is a risk.

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  • From hlillywh45@gmail.com@21:1/5 to lee.thomp...@gmail.com on Sun Feb 17 16:27:59 2019
    On Saturday, February 16, 2019 at 10:03:50 AM UTC-8, lee.thomp...@gmail.com wrote:
    The primary benefit is nothing to do with silence and bubbles unless you are a photographer, it’s all to do with the correct Po2 at all times, you do less deco at depth:
    It makes deadly dives possible and rescues the risk of decompression I’llness and reduces weight as you don’t need 5 tanks of different mix hanging off you to do the same dive profile, each swap is a risk.

    Interesting, but I still don't see the advantage of a rebreather for climbers. There is air at altitude, just not as much as nearer sea level. And climbers seldom
    face pressure that changes as fast as do divers. The issue at altitude is getting
    enough oxygen. Something that concentrates the oxygen as some medical devices do
    seems more useful.

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  • From jemtone@gmail.com@21:1/5 to All on Wed Dec 25 03:21:14 2019
    The aDvantage is.. You don't run out on the way down.. When most people die cause their either tired or their empty O2 has left them incapable of finishing the decent to below the death zone etc...

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  • From hlillywh45@gmail.com@21:1/5 to jem...@gmail.com on Wed Dec 25 15:10:43 2019
    On Wednesday, December 25, 2019 at 3:21:15 AM UTC-8, jem...@gmail.com wrote:
    The aDvantage is.. You don't run out on the way down.. When most people die cause their either tired or their empty O2 has left them incapable of finishing the decent to below the death zone etc...

    I am still intrigued by battery-powered oxygen concentrators. Lighter and no limit
    on how much O2 they can provide. The obvious question is battery life and function
    in the cold at high altitudes. I've not found anything about their use for mountaineering but there is a discussion about them for medical use at https://www.usoxygensales.com/resources/news-articles/oxygen-concentrators-high-altitudes/

    And a link to many such concentrators at https://www.usoxygensales.com/all-portable-oxygen-concentrators/

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  • From wacki zacki@21:1/5 to Mike Yukish on Sun Jun 20 01:59:57 2021
    On Wednesday, June 3, 1998 at 12:00:00 AM UTC-7, Mike Yukish wrote:
    Richard Hall wrote:
    Come on guys, wake up.
    <yawn> Its not even 12:00 yet, but I guess I shall rise...
    The problem is not weight, nor is it the level
    of CO2. The problem is that at elevation the air density is so thin
    that getting enough oxygen is the problem. Typically they supplement
    with oxygen to increase the percentage of oxygen. The air density is
    still basically the same, but the percentage of oxygen to other gasses
    is higher. Since a rebreather does nothing to increase the air density,
    it would be no help whatsoever...


    Normally you carry the oxygen up in a tank, and the majority of what you deliver to the climber is expired without being used. So you get low efficiency use ofthe oxygen you lugged up.
    A rebreather could help by allowing the same oxygen bottle to last *much* longer (couldn't it?)
    From my days as a military pilot, we used to breathe 100% oxygen from
    takeoff to landing, delivered at slightly over ambient pressure. Our LOX bottles would last much longer at high altitudes, since the pressure was lower and the quantity per breathe lower. We also used to get what I
    called 'Oxygen Ear', for lack of a better name. It is where the inner ear gets saturated with O2, and later that night when asleep your body soaks
    up the O2, and you wake up having to pop your ear something fierce. But I digress...
    --
    Mike Yukish
    may...@psu.edu
    ARL/Penn State U
    http://elvis.arl.psu.edu/~may106

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