• SAILING ALONE AROUND THE WORLD (completed 1+1) (1/3)

    From Captain Joshua Slocum@21:1/5 to All on Fri Jan 25 18:01:00 2019
    By Captain Joshua Slocum




    A blue-nose ancestry with Yankee proclivities - Youthful fondness for the sea
    - Master of the ship Northern Light - Loss of the Aquidneck - Return home from Brazil in the canoe Liberdade - The gift of a "ship" - The rebuilding
    of the Spray - Conundrums in regard to finance and calking - The launching
    of the Spray.


    Failure as a fisherman - A voyage around the world projected - From Boston to Gloucester - Fitting out for the ocean voyage - Half of a dory for a ship's boat - The run from Gloucester to Nova Scotia - A shaking up in home waters - Among old friends.


    Good-by to the American coast - Off Sable Island in a fog - In the open sea - The man in the moon takes an interest in the voyage - The first fit of loneliness - The Spray encounters La Vaguisa - A bottle of wine from the Spaniard - A bout of words with the captain of the Java - The steamship Olympia spoken - Arrival at the Azores.


    Squally weather in the Azores - High living - Delirious from cheese and plums
    - The pilot of the Pinta - At Gibraltar - Compliments exchanged with the British navy - A picnic on the Morocco shore.


    Sailing from Gibraltar with the assistance of her Majesty's tug - The Spray's course changed from the Suez Canal to Cape Horn - Chased by a Moorish pirate -
    A comparison with Columbus - The Canary Islands - The Cape Verde Islands -
    Sea life - Arrival at Pernambuco - A bill against the Brazilian government - Preparing for the stormy weather of the cape.



    A blue-nose ancestry with Yankee proclivities - Youthful fondness for the sea
    - Master of the ship Northern Light - Loss of the Aquidneck - Return home from Brazil in the canoe Liberdade - The gift of a "ship" - The rebuilding
    of the Spray -Conundrums in regard to finance and calking - The launching of the Spray.

    In the fair land of Nova Scotia, a maritime province, there is a ridge called North Mountain, overlooking the Bay of Fundy on one side and the fertile Annapolis valley on the other. On the northern slope of the range grows the hardy spruce-tree, well adapted for ship-timbers, of which many vessels of
    all classes have been built. The people of this coast, hardy, robust, and strong, are disposed to compete in the world's commerce, and it is nothing against the master mariner if the birthplace mentioned on his certificate be Nova Scotia. I was born in a cold spot, on coldest North Mountain, on a cold February 20, though I am a citizen of the United States - a naturalized
    Yankee, if it may be said that Nova Scotians are not Yankees in the truest sense of the word. On both sides my family were sailors; and if any Slocum should be found not seafaring, he will show at least an inclination to
    whittle models of boats and contemplate voyages.

    My father was the sort of man who, if wrecked on a desolate island, would
    find his way home, if he had a jack-knife and could find a tree. He was a
    good judge of a boat, but the old clay farm which some calamity made his was
    an anchor to him. He was not afraid of a capful of wind, and he never took a back seat at a camp-meeting or a good, old-fashioned revival.

    As for myself, the wonderful sea charmed me from the first. At the age of
    eight I had already been afloat along with other boys on the bay, with
    chances greatly in favor of being drowned. When a lad I filled the important post of cook on a fishing-schooner; but I was not long in the galley, for the crew mutinied at the appearance of my first duff, and "chucked me out" before
    I had a chance to shine as a culinary artist. The next step toward the goal
    of happiness found me before the mast in a full-rigged ship bound on a
    foreign voyage. Thus I came "over the bows," and not in through the cabin windows, to the command of a ship.

    My best command was that of the magnificent ship Northern Light , of which I was part-owner. I had a right to be proud of her, for at that time - in the eighties - she was the finest American sailing-vessel afloat. Afterward I
    owned and sailed the Aquidneck , a little bark which of all man's handiwork seemed to me the nearest to perfection of beauty, and which in speed, when
    the wind blew, asked no favors of steamers, I had been nearly twenty years a shipmaster when I quit her deck on the coast of Brazil, where she was
    wrecked. My home voyage to New York with my family was made in the canoe Liberdade , without accident.

    My voyages were all foreign. I sailed as freighter and trader principally to China, Australia, and Japan, and among the Spice Islands. Mine was not the
    sort of life to make one long to coil up one's ropes on land, the customs and ways of which I had finally almost forgotten. And so when times for
    freighters got bad, as at last they did, and I tried to quit the sea, what
    was there for an old sailor to do? I was born in the breezes, and I had
    studied the sea as perhaps few men have studied it, neglecting all else. Next in attractiveness, after seafaring, came ship-building. I longed to be master in both professions, and in a small way, in time, I accomplished my desire. >From the decks of stout ships in the worst gales I had made calculations as
    to the size and sort of ship safest for all weather and all seas. Thus the voyage which I am now to narrate was a natural outcome not only of my love of adventure, but of my lifelong experience.

    One midwinter day of 1892, in Boston, where I had been cast up from old
    ocean, so to speak, a year or two before, I was cogitating whether I should apply for a command, and again eat my bread and butter on the sea, or go to work at the shipyard, when I met an old acquaintance, a whaling-captain, who said: "Come to Fairhaven and I'll give you a ship. But," he added, "she wants some repairs." The captain's terms, when fully explained, were more than satisfactory to me. They included all the assistance I would require to fit
    the craft for sea. I was only too glad to accept, for I had already found
    that I could not obtain work in the shipyard without first paying fifty
    dollars to a society, and as for a ship to command - there were not enough ships to go round. Nearly all our tall vessels had been cut down for coal- barges, and were being ignominiously towed by the nose from port to port,
    while many worthy captains addressed themselves to Sailors' Snug Harbor.

    The next day I landed at Fairhaven, opposite New Bedford, and found that my friend had something of a joke on me. For seven years the joke had been on
    him. The "ship" proved to be a very antiquated sloop called the Spray, which the neighbors declared had been built in the year 1. She was affectionately propped up in a field, some distance from salt water, and was covered with canvas. The people of Fairhaven, I hardly need say, are thrifty and
    observant. For seven years they had asked, "I wonder what Captain Eben Pierce is going to do with the old Spray?" The day I appeared there was a buzz at
    the gossip exchange: at last some one had come and was actually at work on
    the old Spray. "Breaking her up, I s'pose?" "No; going to rebuild her." Great was the amazement. "Will it pay?" was the question which for a year or more I answered by declaring that I would make it pay.

    My ax felled a stout oak-tree near by for a keel, and Farmer Howard, for a small sum of money, hauled in this and enough timbers for the frame of the
    new vessel. I rigged a steam-box and a pot for a boiler. The timbers for
    ribs, being straight saplings, were dressed and steamed till supple, and then bent over a log, where they were secured till set. Something tangible
    appeared every day to show for my labor, and the neighbors made the work sociable. It was a great day in the Spray shipyard when her new stem was set
    up and fastened to the new keel. Whaling-captains came from far to survey it. With one voice they pronounced it "A 1," and in their opinion "fit to smash ice." The oldest captain shook my hand warmly when the breast-hooks were put in, declaring that he could see no reason why the Spray should not "cut in bow-head" yet off the coast of Greenland. The much-esteemed stem-piece was
    from the butt of the smartest kind of a pasture oak. It afterward split a
    coral patch in two at the Keeling Islands, and did not receive a blemish. Better timber for a ship than pasture white oak never grew. The breast-hooks, as well as all the ribs, were of this wood, and were steamed and bent into shape as required. It was hard upon March when I began work in earnest; the weather was cold; still, there were plenty of inspectors to back me with advice. When a whaling-captain hove in sight I just rested on my adz awhile
    and "gammed" with him.

    New Bedford, the home of whaling-captains, is connected with Fairhaven by a bridge, and the walking is good. They never "worked along up" to the shipyard too often for me. It was the charming tales about arctic whaling that
    inspired me to put a double set of breast-hooks in the Spray , that she might shunt ice.

    The seasons came quickly while I worked. Hardly were the ribs of the sloop up before apple-trees were in bloom. Then the daisies and the cherries came soon after. Close by the place where the old Spray had now dissolved rested the ashes of John Cook, a revered Pilgrim father. So the new Spray rose from hallowed ground. From the deck of the new craft I could put out my hand and pick cherries that grew over the humble grave. The planks for the new vessel, which I soon came to put on, were of Georgia pine an inch and a half thick.
    The operation of putting them on was tedious, but, when on, the calking was easy. The outward edges stood slightly open to receive the calking, but the inner edges were so close that I could not see daylight between them. All the butts were fastened by through bolts, with screw-nuts tightening them to the timbers, so that there would be no complaint from them. Many bolts with screw- nuts were used in other parts of the construction, in all about a thousand.

    It was my purpose to make my good vessel stout and strong. Now, it is a law
    in Lloyd's that the Jane repaired all out of the old until she is entirely
    new is still the Jane. The Spray changed her being so gradually that it was hard to say at what point the old died or the new took birth, and it was no matter. The bulwarks I built up of white-oak stanchions fourteen inches high, and covered with seven-eighth-inch white pine. These stanchions, mortised through a two-inch covering-board, I caulked with thin cedar wedges. They
    have remained perfectly tight ever since. The deck I made of one-and-a-half- inch by three-inch white pine spiked to beams, six by six inches, of yellow
    or Georgia pine, placed three feet apart. The deck-inclosures were one over
    the aperture of the main hatch, six feet by six, for a cooking-galley, and a trunk farther aft, about ten feet by twelve, for a cabin. Both of these rose about three feet above the deck, and were sunk sufficiently into the hold to afford head-room. In the spaces along the sides of the cabin, under the deck,
    I arranged a berth to sleep in, and shelves for small storage, not forgetting
    a place for the medicine-chest. In the midship hold, that is, the space
    between cabin and galley, under the deck, was room for provision of water,
    salt beef, etc., enough for many months.

    The hull of my vessel being now put together as strongly as wood and iron
    could make her, and the various rooms partitioned off, I set about "calking ship." Grave fears were entertained by some that at this point I should fail.
    I myself gave some thought to the advisability of a "professional caulker."
    The very first blow I struck on the cotton with the calking-iron, which I thought was right, many others thought wrong. "It'll crawl!" cried a man from Marion, passing with a basket of clams on his back. "It'll crawl!" cried another from West Island, when he saw me driving cotton into the seams. Bruno simply wagged his tail. Even Mr. Ben J, a noted authority on whaling-ships, whose mind, however, was said to totter, asked rather confidently if I did
    not think "it would crawl." "How fast will it crawl?" cried my old captain friend, who had been towed by many a lively sperm-whale. "Tell us how fast," cried he, "that we may get into port in time."

    However, I drove a thread of oakum on top of the cotton, as from the first I had intended to do. And Bruno again wagged his tail. The cotton never "crawled." When the calking was finished, two coats of copper paint were slapped on the bottom, two of white lead on the topsides and bulwarks. The rudder was then shipped and painted, and on the following day the Spray was launched. As she rode at her ancient, rust-eaten anchor, she sat on the water like a swan.

    The Spray's dimensions were, when finished, thirty-six feet nine inches long, over all, fourteen feet two inches wide, and four feet two inches deep in the hold, her tonnage being nine tons net and twelve and seventy-one hundredths tons gross.

    Then the mast, a smart New Hampshire spruce, was fitted, and likewise all the small appurtenances necessary for a short cruise. Sails were bent, and away
    she flew with my friend Captain Pierce and me, across Buzzard's Bay on a trial-trip - all right. The only thing that now worried my friends along the beach was, "Will she pay?" The cost of my new vessel was $553.62 for
    materials, and thirteen months of my own labor. I was several months more
    than that at Fairhaven, for I got work now and then on an occasional whale- ship fitting farther down the harbor, and that kept me the overtime.


    Failure as a fisherman - A voyage around the world projected - From Boston to Gloucester - Fitting out for the ocean voyage - Half of a dory for a ship's boat - The run from Gloucester to Nova Scotia - A shaking up in home waters - Among old friends.

    I spent a season in my new craft fishing on the coast, only to find that I
    had not the cunning properly to bait a hook. But at last the time arrived to weigh anchor and get to sea in earnest. I had resolved on a voyage around the world, and as the wind on the morning of April 24,1895, was fair, at noon I weighed anchor, set sail, and filled away from Boston, where the Spray had
    been moored snugly all winter. The twelve-o'clock whistles were blowing just
    as the sloop shot ahead under full sail. A short board was made up the harbor on the port tack, then coming about she stood seaward, with her boom well off to port, and swung past the ferries with lively heels. A photographer on the outer pier at East Boston got a picture of her as she swept by, her flag at
    the peak throwing its folds clear. A thrilling pulse beat high in me. My step was light on deck in the crisp air. I felt that there could be no turning
    back, and that I was engaging in an adventure the meaning of which I
    thoroughly understood. I had taken little advice from any one, for I had a right to my own opinions in matters pertaining to the sea. That the best of sailors might do worse than even I alone was borne in upon me not a league
    from Boston docks, where a great steamship, fully manned, officered, and piloted, lay stranded and broken. This was the Venetian. She was broken completely in two over a ledge. So in the first hour of my lone voyage I had proof that the Spray could at least do better than this full-handed
    steamship, for I was already farther on my voyage than she. "Take warning, Spray, and have a care," I uttered aloud to my bark, passing fairylike
    silently down the bay.

    The wind freshened, and the Spray rounded Deer Island light at the rate of seven knots.

    Passing it, she squared away direct for Gloucester to procure there some fishermen's stores. Waves dancing joyously across Massachusetts Bay met her coming out of the harbor to dash them into myriads of sparkling gems that
    hung about her at every surge. The day was perfect, the sunlight clear and strong. Every particle of water thrown into the air became a gem, and the Spray, bounding ahead, snatched necklace after necklace from the sea, and as often threw them away. We have all seen miniature rainbows about a ship's
    prow, but the Spray flung out a bow of her own that day, such as I had never seen before. Her good angel had embarked on the voyage; I so read it in the sea.

    Bold Nahant was soon abeam, then Marblehead was put astern. Other vessels
    were outward bound, but none of them passed the Spray flying along on her course. I heard the clanking of the dismal bell on Norman's Woe as we went
    by; and the reef where the schooner Hesperus struck I passed close aboard.
    The "bones" of a wreck tossed up lay bleaching on the shore abreast. The wind still freshening, I settled the throat of the mainsail to ease the sloop's helm, for I could hardly hold her before it with the whole mainsail set. A schooner ahead of me lowered all sail and ran into port under bare poles, the wind being fair. As the Spray brushed by the stranger, I saw that some of his sails were gone, and much broken canvas hung in his rigging, from the effects of a squall.

    I made for the cove, a lovely branch of Gloucester's fine harbor, again to
    look the Spray over and again to weigh the voyage, and my feelings, and all that. The bay was feather-white as my little vessel tore in, smothered in
    foam. It was my first experience of coming into port alone, with a craft of
    any size, and in among shipping. Old fishermen ran down to the wharf for
    which the Spray was heading, apparently intent upon braining herself there. I hardly know how a calamity was averted, but with my heart in my mouth,
    almost, I let go the wheel, stepped quickly forward, and downed the jib. The sloop naturally rounded in the wind, and just ranging ahead, laid her cheek against a mooring-pile at the windward corner of the wharf, so quietly, after all, that she would not have broken an egg. Very leisurely I passed a rope around the post, and she was moored. Then a cheer went up from the little
    crowd on the wharf. "You couldn't 'a' done it better," cried an old skipper, "if you weighed a ton!" Now, my weight was rather less than the fifteenth
    part of a ton, but I said nothing, only putting on a look of careless indifference to say for me, "Oh, that's nothing"; for some of the ablest sailors in the world were looking at me, and my wish was not to appear green, for I had a mind to stay in Gloucester several days. Had I uttered a word it surely would have betrayed me, for I was still quite nervous and short of breath.

    I remained in Gloucester about two weeks, fitting out with the various
    articles for the voyage most readily obtained there. The owners of the wharf where I lay, and of many fishing-vessels, put on board dry cod galore, also a barrel of oil to calm the waves. They were old skippers themselves, and took
    a great interest in the voyage. They also made the Spray a present of a "fisherman's own" lantern, which I found would throw a light a great distance round. Indeed, a ship that would run another down having such a good light aboard would be capable of running into a light-ship. A gaff, a pugh, and a dip-net, all of which an old fisherman declared I could not sail without,
    were also put aboard. Then, top, from across the cove came a case of copper paint, a famous antifouling article, which stood me in good stead long after.
    I slapped two coats of this paint on the bottom of the Spray while she lay a tide or so on the hard beach.

    For a boat to take along, I made shift to cut a castaway dory in two athwartships, boarding up the end where it was cut. This half-dory I could hoist in and out by the nose easily enough, by hooking the throat-halyards
    into a strop fitted for the purpose. A whole dory would be heavy and awkward
    to handle alone. Manifestly there was not room on deck for more than the half of a boat, which, after all, was better than no boat at all, and was large enough for one man. I perceived, moreover, that the newly arranged craft
    would answer for a washing-machine when placed athwartships, and also for a bath-tub. Indeed, for the former office my razeed dory gained such a
    reputation on the voyage that my washerwoman at Samoa would not take no for
    an answer. She could see with one eye that it was a new invention which beat any Yankee notion ever brought by missionaries to the islands, and she had to have it.

    The want of a chronometer for the voyage was all that now worried me. In our newfangled notions of navigation it is supposed that a mariner cannot find
    his way without one; and I had myself drifted into this way of thinking. My
    old chronometer, a good one, had been long in disuse. It would cost fifteen dollars to clean and rate it. Fifteen dollars! For sufficient reasons I left that timepiece at home, where the Dutchman left his anchor. I had the great lantern, and a lady in Boston sent me the price of a large two-burner cabin lamp, which lighted the cabin at night, and by some small contriving served
    for a stove through the day.

    Being thus refitted I was once more ready for sea, and on May 7 again made sail. With little room in which to turn, the Spray , in gathering headway, scratched the paint off an old, fine-weather craft in the fairway, being puttied and painted for a summer voyage. "Who'll pay for that?" growled the painters. "I will," said I. "With the main-sheet," echoed the captain of the Bluebird , close by, which was his way of saying that I was off. There was nothing to pay for above five cents' worth of paint, maybe, but such a din
    was raised between the old "hooker" and the Bluebird , which now took up my case, that the first cause of it was forgotten altogether. Anyhow, no bill
    was sent after me.

    The weather was mild on the day of my departure from Gloucester. On the point ahead, as the Spray stood out of the cove, was a lively picture, for the
    front of a tall factory was a flutter of handkerchiefs and caps. Pretty faces peered out of the windows from the top to the bottom of the building, all smiling bon voyage. Some hailed me to know where away and why alone. Why?
    When I made as if to stand in, a hundred pairs of arms reached out, and said come, but the shore was dangerous! The sloop worked out of the bay against a light southwest wind, and about noon squared away off Eastern Point,
    receiving at the same time a hearty salute - the last of many kindnesses to
    her at Gloucester. The wind freshened off the point, and skipping along smoothly, the Spray was soon off Thatcher's Island lights. Thence shaping her course east, by compass, to go north of Cashes Ledge and the Amen Rocks, I
    sat and considered the matter all over again, and asked myself once more whether it were best to sail beyond the ledge and rocks at all.

    I had only said that I would sail round the world in the Spray , "dangers of the sea excepted," but I must have said it very much in earnest. The "charter- party" with myself seemed to bind me, and so I sailed on. Toward night I
    hauled the sloop to the wind, and baiting a hook, sounded for bottom-fish, in thirty fathoms of water, on the edge of Cashes Ledge. With fair success I hauled till dark, landing on deck three cod and two haddocks, one hake, and, best of all, a small halibut, all plump and spry. This, I thought, would be
    the place to take in a good stock of provisions above what I already had; so
    I put out a sea-anchor that would hold her head to windward. The current
    being southwest, against the wind, I felt quite sure I would find the Spray still on the bank or near it in the morning. Then "stradding" the cable and putting my great lantern in the rigging, I lay down, for the first time at
    sea alone, not to sleep, but to doze and to dream.

    I had read somewhere of a fishing-schooner hooking her anchor into a whale,
    and being towed a long way and at great speed. This was exactly what happened to the Spray - in my dream! I could not shake it off entirely when I awoke
    and found that it was the wind blowing and the heavy sea now running that had disturbed my short rest. A scud was flying across the moon. A storm was brewing; indeed, it was already stormy. I reefed the sails, then hauled in my sea-anchor, and setting what canvas the sloop could carry, headed her away
    for Monhegan light, which she made before daylight on the morning of the 8th. The wind being free, I ran on into Round Pond harbor, which is a little port east from Pemaquid. Here I rested a day, while the wind rattled among the pine-trees on shore. But the following day was fine enough, and I put to sea, first writing up my log from Cape Ann, not omitting a full account of my adventure with the whale.

    The Spray , heading east, stretched along the coast among many islands and
    over a tranquil sea. At evening of this day, May 10, she came up with a considerable island, which I shall always think of as the Island of Frogs,
    for the Spray was charmed by a million voices. From the Island of Frogs we
    made for the Island of Birds, called Gannet Island, and sometimes Gannet
    Rock, whereon is a bright, intermittent light, which flashed fitfully across the Spray's deck as she coasted along under its light and shade. Thence
    shaping a course for Briar's Island, I came among vessels the following afternoon on the western fishing-grounds, and after speaking a fisherman at anchor, who gave me a wrong course, the Spray sailed directly over the southwest ledge through the worst tide-race in the Bay of Fundy, and got into Westport harbor in Nova Scotia, where I had spent eight years of my life as a lad.

    The fisherman may have said "east-southeast," the course I was steering when
    I hailed him; but I thought he said "east-northeast," and I accordingly
    changed it to that. Before he made up his mind to answer me at all, he
    improved the occasion of his own curiosity to know where I was from, and if I was alone, and if I didn't have "no dorg nor no cat." It was the first time
    in all my life at sea that I had heard a hail for information answered by a question. I think the chap belonged to the Foreign Islands. There was one
    thing I was sure of, and that was that he did not belong to Briar's Island, because he dodged a sea that slopped over the rail, and stopping to brush the water from his face, lost a fine cod which he was about to ship. My islander would not have done that. It is known that a Briar Islander, fish or no fish
    on his hook, never flinches from a sea. He just tends to his lines and hauls
    or "saws." Nay, have I not seen my old friend Deacon W. D - -, a good man of the island, while listening to a sermon in the little church on the hill,
    reach out his hand over the door of his pew and "jig" imaginary squid in the aisle, to the intense delight of the young people, who did not realize that
    to catch good fish one must have good bait, the thing most on the deacon's mind.

    I was delighted to reach Westport. Any port at all would have been delightful after the terrible thrashing I got in the fierce sou'west rip, and to find myself among old schoolmates now was charming. It was the 13th of the month, and 13 is my lucky number - a fact registered long before Dr. Nansen sailed
    in search of the north pole with his crew of thirteen. Perhaps he had heard
    of my success in taking a most extraordinary ship successfully to Brazil with that number of crew. The very stones on Briar's Island I was glad to see
    again, and I knew them all. The little shop round the corner, which for thirty-five years I had not seen, was the same, except that it looked a deal smaller. It wore the same shingles - I was sure of it; for did not I know the roof where we boys, night after night, hunted for the skin of a black cat, to be taken on a dark night, to make a plaster for a poor lame man? Lowry the tailor lived there when boys were boys. In his day he was fond of the gun. He always carried his powder loose in the tail pocket of his coat. He usually
    had in his mouth a short dudeen; but in an evil moment he put the dudeen, lighted, in the pocket among the powder. Mr. Lowry was an eccentric man.

    At Briar's Island I overhauled the Spray once more and tried her seams, but found that even the test of the sou'west rip had started nothing. Bad weather and much head wind prevailing outside, I was in no hurry to round Cape Sable.
    I made a short excursion with some friends to St. Mary's Bay, an old cruising- ground, and back to the island. Then I sailed, putting into Yarmouth the following day on account of fog and head wind. I spent some days pleasantly enough in Yarmouth, took in some butter for the voyage, also a barrel of potatoes, filled six barrels of water, and stowed all under deck. At
    Yarmouth, too, I got my famous tin clock, the only timepiece I carried on the whole voyage. The price of it was a dollar and a half, but on account of the face being smashed the merchant let me have it for a dollar.


    Good-by to the American coast - Off Sable Island in a fog - In the open sea - The man in the moon takes an interest in the voyage - The first fit of loneliness - The Spray encounters La Vaguisa - A bottle of wine from the Spaniard - A bout of words with the captain of the Java - The steamship Olympia spoken - Arrival at the Azores.

    I now stowed all my goods securely, for the boisterous Atlantic was before
    me, and I sent the topmast down, knowing that the Spray would be the
    wholesomer with it on deck. Then I gave the lanyards a pull and hitched them afresh, and saw that the gammon was secure, also that the boat was lashed,
    for even in summer one may meet with bad weather in the crossing.

    In fact, many weeks of bad weather had prevailed. On July 1, however, after a rude gale, the wind came out nor'west and clear, propitious for a good run.
    On the following day, the head sea having gone down, I sailed from Yarmouth, and let go my last hold on America. The log of my first day on the Atlantic
    in the Spray reads briefly: "9:30 A.M. sailed from Yarmouth. 4:30 P.M. passed Cape Sable; distance, three cables from the land. The sloop making eight
    knots. Fresh breeze N.W." Before the sun went down I was taking my supper of strawberries and tea in smooth water under the lee of the east-coast land, along which the Spray was now leisurely skirting.

    At noon on July 3 Ironbound Island was abeam. The Spray was again at her
    best. A large schooner came out of Liverpool, Nova Scotia, this morning, steering eastward. The Spray put her hull down astern in five hours. At 6:45 P.M. I was in close under Chebucto Head light, near Halifax harbor. I set my flag and squared away, taking my departure from George's Island before dark
    to sail east of Sable Island.

    There are many beacon lights along the coast. Sambro, the Rock of
    Lamentations, carries a noble light, which, however, the liner Atlantic , on the night of her terrible disaster, did not see. I watched light after light sink astern as I sailed into the unbounded sea, till Sambro, the last of them all, was below the horizon. The Spray was then alone, and sailing on, she
    held her course. July 4, at 6 A.M., I put in double reefs, and at 8:30 A.M. turned out all reefs. At 9:40 P.M. I raised the sheen only of the light on
    the west end of Sable Island, which may also be called the Island of
    Tragedies. The fog, which till this moment had held off, now lowered over the sea like a pall. I was in a world of fog, shut off from the universe. I did
    not see any more of the light. By the lead, which I cast often, I found that
    a little after midnight I was passing the east point of the island, and
    should soon be clear of dangers of land and shoals. The wind was holding
    free, though it was from the foggy point, south-southwest. It is said that within a few years Sable Island has been reduced from forty miles in length
    to twenty, and that of three lighthouses built on it since 1880, two have

    [continued in next message]

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