Has anyone rebuilt the internals of the Al-Ko surge brake mechanism on a Cobra trailer? To be clear I am not referring to the brake mechanisms at the wheels, just the mechanism inside the tongue.have been lubricating it through the Zerk grease fittings.
I, and a friend, have noticed that our surge brakes seems to get "stuck" in the engaged position from time to time. I then need to give it a disengage pull by giving a quick jerk acceleration (or setting the manual brake and pulling forward). Yes, I
So I think that it might needs to be taken apart, cleaned, and reassembled. Anyone seen any documentation?
Thanks, John (OHM)
Has anyone rebuilt the internals of the Al-Ko surge brake mechanism on a Cobra trailer? To be clear I am not referring to the brake mechanisms at the wheels, just the mechanism inside the tongue.have been lubricating it through the Zerk grease fittings.
I, and a friend, have noticed that our surge brakes seems to get "stuck" in the engaged position from time to time. I then need to give it a disengage pull by giving a quick jerk acceleration (or setting the manual brake and pulling forward). Yes, I
So I think that it might needs to be taken apart, cleaned, and reassembled. Anyone seen any documentation?I replaced the damper on my Cobra circa 1995 trailer. My trailer has a round tongue. It was not difficult but did not really solve the problem which was a clunking sound when I applied the brake. What mine actually need was a brake adjustment. I have
Thanks, John (OHM)
Just seeing if I can attach a file using Thunderbird and
eternal-september...
Dan
5J
the innards in pdf form which I will email you, because I can't figure
out how to attach to this post.
Dan - You cannot attach a file to a posting within any USENET (NNTP) groups like rec.aviation.soaring (except for groups starting with alt.binaries.xxx). This is the case even if you are reading rec.aviation.soaring via http://groups.google.com whosegroups allow attachments. My $0.02.
Well, I can see it in my Thunderbird RAS viewer at the bottom of the
previous message. Can anyone else see it?
Well, I can see it in my Thunderbird RAS viewer at the bottom of the previous message. Can anyone else see it?
Dan
5J
On 10/22/22 08:37, Dan Marotta wrote:
Just seeing if I can attach a file using Thunderbird and eternal-september...
Dan
5J
<Snip> I have some information on
the innards in pdf form which I will email you, because I can't figure
out how to attach to this post.
groups allow attachments. My $0.02.Dan - You cannot attach a file to a posting within any USENET (NNTP) groups like rec.aviation.soaring (except for groups starting with alt.binaries.xxx). This is the case even if you are reading rec.aviation.soaring via http://groups.google.com whose
John,
Really? See my above post. I can see and open Dan's attached file. Same configuration: Thunderbird and eternal-september (the latter working OK
even in October :-) )
Tom BravoMike
On 10/22/2022 8:41 AM, Dan Marotta wrote:Yep
Well, I can see it in my Thunderbird RAS viewer at the bottom of the previous message. Can anyone else see it?
DanYeo
5J
Well, I can see it in my Thunderbird RAS viewer at the bottom of theYeo
previous message. Can anyone else see it?
Dan
5J
On 10/22/22 08:37, Dan Marotta wrote:
Just seeing if I can attach a file using Thunderbird and<Snip> I have some information on
eternal-september...
Dan
5J
the innards in pdf form which I will email you, because I can't
figure out how to attach to this post.
I've posted about Cobra surge brake problems before. I've done all the usual stuff (disassemble and clean, lube, replace the damper, grease the fittings, adjust the shoes with the starwheel, etc.). But only this spring--after owning the trailer for 30years--did I solve the problem of the brakes overheating!
My worst case was always a hard stop. The surge brake would sometimes stick in the compressed position, with the brakes actuated. Sometimes it was difficult to force it open even with hard acceleration. After it happened the first few times, I alwayspulled over to check after a hard stop. PIA, like a lot of things in soaring.
There are two stout fiber bushings in the round tongue that appeared to have swollen after getting wet over the years. These bushings are in the outer tube. The inner tube/tongue slides in them. This swelling is a known problem that's written up invarious groups and postings. One indication that the rear bushing was swollen was the very slightly expanded round steel outer tube, like a snake swallowing an egg. One solution was to replace the bushings. But I was able to open them up by sanding/
The front bushing is easily accessible so you can use a half-round file or grinding wheel or whatever. The rear bushing is far enough in the tube that it's more difficult. I'd tried various things but what worked this spring was taking a length ofstainless steel tubing from a swimming pool I had removed and cutting a slit in the end of it. I slid a length of sandpaper into the slit and then wrapped it around the tubing until the total diameter was very close to the inside diameter of the bushing.
When I put it all back together (not a big deal, though I benefited from having done it a few dozen times over the years) and lubed it up, everything worked perfectly on two long trips. I'm not declaring victory yet because I've been down this road somany times, but I'm optimistic.
I haven't read enough of the online docs to know for sure but I believe the same issue can occur with the square tube tongue, too.to extend or retract the sliding tongue slightly to align the holes. You'll note that the grease fittings are located at the points where the bushings are mounted, as those are where the sliding friction occurs.
One hint: when greasing the zerk fittings every year, I remove the bolt for the rear damper mount. This allows me to rotate the inner tube 360 degrees, distributing the grease evenly to all parts of the bushings. Replacing the bolt is easy; just have
Personally, I think the damper is sometimes blamed for problems with other causes. Yeah, if the trailer overuns the car with a thump and then releases with another thump under acceleration, it's probably a weak damper. Otherwise I'd look elsewherefirst. Replacing the damper is a pain on my trailer because the front end is retained by one of the same bolts that holds the coupler to the sliding tube, with various spacers inserted. Take photos before you take it apart.
One other place to look, as others have noted, is the Bowden cables. I removed mine (at both ends) and spun them by chucking the ends in an electric drill while squirting lube into the cable housings. Then I reinstalled them on the opposite sides ofthe trailer so the "set" they had taken was reversed (one was actually slightly bent, otherwise I would have reinstalled them as is). The problem can get worse much more quickly if the rubber boot that protects the forward-facing cable where it emerges
AL-KO has a lot of detailed instructions on how to set up and adjust the brakes so pay attention to them. Like a lot of things from Germany, the company seems to assume we Americans will lavish love and attention on our machines and make carefuladjustments every few thousand kilometers; i.e., half way to a contest on the other side of the country for me. :)
Chip BeardenI have a later model Komet trailer with a surge brake. It’s been inoperative since day one. Not really a problem except the clunk when you accelerate and decelerate. What would it take to make the tongue solid?
ASW 24 "JB" (1992)
On Saturday, October 22, 2022 at 6:47:36 PM UTC-4, chip.b...@gmail.com wrote:30 years--did I solve the problem of the brakes overheating!
I've posted about Cobra surge brake problems before. I've done all the usual stuff (disassemble and clean, lube, replace the damper, grease the fittings, adjust the shoes with the starwheel, etc.). But only this spring--after owning the trailer for
pulled over to check after a hard stop. PIA, like a lot of things in soaring.My worst case was always a hard stop. The surge brake would sometimes stick in the compressed position, with the brakes actuated. Sometimes it was difficult to force it open even with hard acceleration. After it happened the first few times, I always
various groups and postings. One indication that the rear bushing was swollen was the very slightly expanded round steel outer tube, like a snake swallowing an egg. One solution was to replace the bushings. But I was able to open them up by sanding/There are two stout fiber bushings in the round tongue that appeared to have swollen after getting wet over the years. These bushings are in the outer tube. The inner tube/tongue slides in them. This swelling is a known problem that's written up in
stainless steel tubing from a swimming pool I had removed and cutting a slit in the end of it. I slid a length of sandpaper into the slit and then wrapped it around the tubing until the total diameter was very close to the inside diameter of the bushing.The front bushing is easily accessible so you can use a half-round file or grinding wheel or whatever. The rear bushing is far enough in the tube that it's more difficult. I'd tried various things but what worked this spring was taking a length of
so many times, but I'm optimistic.When I put it all back together (not a big deal, though I benefited from having done it a few dozen times over the years) and lubed it up, everything worked perfectly on two long trips. I'm not declaring victory yet because I've been down this road
to extend or retract the sliding tongue slightly to align the holes. You'll note that the grease fittings are located at the points where the bushings are mounted, as those are where the sliding friction occurs.I haven't read enough of the online docs to know for sure but I believe the same issue can occur with the square tube tongue, too.
One hint: when greasing the zerk fittings every year, I remove the bolt for the rear damper mount. This allows me to rotate the inner tube 360 degrees, distributing the grease evenly to all parts of the bushings. Replacing the bolt is easy; just have
first. Replacing the damper is a pain on my trailer because the front end is retained by one of the same bolts that holds the coupler to the sliding tube, with various spacers inserted. Take photos before you take it apart.Personally, I think the damper is sometimes blamed for problems with other causes. Yeah, if the trailer overuns the car with a thump and then releases with another thump under acceleration, it's probably a weak damper. Otherwise I'd look elsewhere
the trailer so the "set" they had taken was reversed (one was actually slightly bent, otherwise I would have reinstalled them as is). The problem can get worse much more quickly if the rubber boot that protects the forward-facing cable where it emergesOne other place to look, as others have noted, is the Bowden cables. I removed mine (at both ends) and spun them by chucking the ends in an electric drill while squirting lube into the cable housings. Then I reinstalled them on the opposite sides of
adjustments every few thousand kilometers; i.e., half way to a contest on the other side of the country for me. :)AL-KO has a lot of detailed instructions on how to set up and adjust the brakes so pay attention to them. Like a lot of things from Germany, the company seems to assume we Americans will lavish love and attention on our machines and make careful
You could weld it in place, like my '69 Eberle🤷Chip BeardenI have a later model Komet trailer with a surge brake. It’s been inoperative since day one. Not really a problem except the clunk when you accelerate and decelerate. What would it take to make the tongue solid?
ASW 24 "JB" (1992)
Charlie
Welding is a possibility, but there may be a gap between the piston/plunger and the housing that holds the plastic slide bushing. A bolt through the plunger is a bad idea because it will introduce a stress point that could break and set your trailerfree to roam around on its own while you drive away with the hitch coupler. Probably the easiest method would be a steel collar that fits between the coupler and the tongue housing to eliminate the fore/aft travel of the piston. A hard link that replaces
I have a later model Komet trailer with a surge brake. It’s been inoperative since day one. Not really a problem except the clunk when you accelerate and decelerate. What would it take to make the tongue solid?
Charlie
On Saturday, October 22, 2022 at 10:13:52 PM UTC-4, kuzi...@gmail.com wrote:arrogantly fancy themselves to be clever, wildly popular champions of the people. As has been said many times in the past, it's unfortunate that how certain people behave online often diverges from the admirable way they behave in person. And they
I have a later model Komet trailer with a surge brake. It’s been inoperative since day one. Not really a problem except the clunk when you accelerate and decelerate. What would it take to make the tongue solid?
CharlieI've stopped reading RAS very often so I missed your post. It's like panning for gold: a few flakes of good info but too much work slogging through a lot of mud spewed by a small number of people who have co-opted RAS as their personal blog and
I agree with Mark: a collar around the sliding piston or a solid strut to replace the damper should disable the overrun mechanism and is reversible. If you pull the sliding portion out (a 5 min. operation involving one bolt on my trailer), you couldtry inserting a short length of tubing/rod behind it (the same length as the stroke of the sliding piston/inner tube), then reassembling it. That might also prevent compressing the drawbar/tongue. I personally wouldn't do anything non-reversible (e.g.,
Define "inoperative". Clunking in both directions (compression/extension) with some braking action? Just clunking with no braking? Does the handbrake have any effect, or does it go past vertical without encountering much resistance and with little/nobraking action? Is the long actuating rod that runs under the trailer and connects the front tongue assembly to the axle still attached at both ends? Have you checked to see if there is a damper installed inside the drawbar and secured at both ends (I've
One frustration is that the same problem (i.e., brakes jamming on) can be caused by a list of possible problems, and everyone has their story. Some years ago, I helped 5E diagnose and fix the problem on his Cobra. After he put all the fixes in, he wentout on the runway and did some hard stops to make sure everything worked. Often (based on my experience), we fix what we think is the problem (e.g., disassemble, clean, lube, and reassemble) but it turns it the problem is something else. Testing is the
Chip BeardenNo hand brake. The previous owner must’ve removed it. No braking/hydraulic action either direction. I am just going to put a plastic collar into it for now. I might do a rebuild later.
ASW 24 "JB"
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