• Shortening tail dolly valve stem

    From Alex Neigher@21:1/5 to All on Mon Aug 29 20:17:28 2022
    Found plenty of info on here about using a value extender in the event that the value is too short, however I have the opposite problem...

    I have an asw20 with a tail dolly of a similar vintage. I recently had to change a flat, and thankfully the split wheel made replacing the tube a piece of cake. I now have a problem where the valve stem that is part of the replacement tube is too long,
    such that it rubs against the sides of the tail dolly assembly when rotating. I noticed that the old tube's stem has a wear pattern indicative of a similar problem, so I suspect it was a problem there as well.

    Does anyone have any advice on how I can get the valve stem to sit deeper in the wheel (or something) so that it does not stick out as far?

    Best Idea i've come up with so far is a collection of washers on the valve before the two wheel halves come together? Is there risk of pinching the tube in an awkward way such that it will prematurely rupture doing this?

    Thanks!
    Alex
    4B

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  • From Mark Mocho@21:1/5 to All on Mon Aug 29 20:40:12 2022
    Best Idea i've come up with so far is a collection of washers on the valve before the two wheel halves come together? Is there risk of pinching the tube in an awkward way such that it will prematurely rupture doing this?


    Spacers between the wheel halves will allow the pressurized tube to extrude into the space and the sharp edges of the wheel halves will carve a hole into the tube almost instantly.
    Inner tubes are available with valve stems that can be straight up like a bicycle tire (which won't work in this case) 90 degrees from the axis of rotation or 45 degrees (which probably won't work either). However, there are 90 degree valve stems that
    are shorter than what you have. You might have to contact Desser Tire to see whether they stock a short valve stem tube. There is also a possibility that a low profile valve stem cap may give enough clearance. Most regular valve stem caps stick out about
    1/4 inch from the end of the stem. Low profile caps reduce the overall length and may provide enough room.

    If you can't find a suitable tube, spread the fork width with some washers between the wheel bearing and the fork flange to clear the valve stem. This is the quickest and easiest method to solve the problem.

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  • From Roy B.@21:1/5 to All on Mon Aug 29 21:22:06 2022
    Alex:
    You probably got the wrong tube model. But, that said I have seen people do a field fix for your problem with safety wire to gently bend the offending valve stem out of the way.
    Roy

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  • From Hank Nixon@21:1/5 to Alex Neigher on Tue Aug 30 06:00:23 2022
    On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:17:30 PM UTC-4, Alex Neigher wrote:
    Found plenty of info on here about using a value extender in the event that the value is too short, however I have the opposite problem...

    I have an asw20 with a tail dolly of a similar vintage. I recently had to change a flat, and thankfully the split wheel made replacing the tube a piece of cake. I now have a problem where the valve stem that is part of the replacement tube is too long,
    such that it rubs against the sides of the tail dolly assembly when rotating. I noticed that the old tube's stem has a wear pattern indicative of a similar problem, so I suspect it was a problem there as well.

    Does anyone have any advice on how I can get the valve stem to sit deeper in the wheel (or something) so that it does not stick out as far?

    Best Idea i've come up with so far is a collection of washers on the valve before the two wheel halves come together? Is there risk of pinching the tube in an awkward way such that it will prematurely rupture doing this?

    Thanks!
    Alex
    4B
    Sometimes a piece of plastic tubing, cut to the right length, and slipped over the valve stem, can limit how far it extends.
    UH

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  • From Dan Marotta@21:1/5 to Mark Mocho on Tue Aug 30 11:39:03 2022
    Mark's suggestion to spread the fork seems like the quickest and easiest solution.

    If you're adventitious and don't have a large supply of large washers
    like Mark, you might increase the depth of the threads on the inside of
    the valve stem with the correct size tap and then shorten the stem to
    fit the application. I've done that with success.

    But I think Mark's suggestion is the best...

    Dan
    5J

    On 8/29/22 21:40, Mark Mocho wrote:

    Best Idea i've come up with so far is a collection of washers on the valve before the two wheel halves come together? Is there risk of pinching the tube in an awkward way such that it will prematurely rupture doing this?


    Spacers between the wheel halves will allow the pressurized tube to extrude into the space and the sharp edges of the wheel halves will carve a hole into the tube almost instantly.
    Inner tubes are available with valve stems that can be straight up like a bicycle tire (which won't work in this case) 90 degrees from the axis of rotation or 45 degrees (which probably won't work either). However, there are 90 degree valve stems that
    are shorter than what you have. You might have to contact Desser Tire to see whether they stock a short valve stem tube. There is also a possibility that a low profile valve stem cap may give enough clearance. Most regular valve stem caps stick out about
    1/4 inch from the end of the stem. Low profile caps reduce the overall length and may provide enough room.

    If you can't find a suitable tube, spread the fork width with some washers between the wheel bearing and the fork flange to clear the valve stem. This is the quickest and easiest method to solve the problem.

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  • From George Haeh@21:1/5 to All on Tue Aug 30 10:51:42 2022
    I ordered a Chinese tire and tube, but the tube packed it in after a few months. Possibly Tost offers better tubes.

    You are very fortunate to have a split rim. A wheelchair shop will sell you a solid tire that will be easy to install on a split rim.

    Some tire shops can put a solid fill into the tire. Once it sets, you can cut off the valve stem.

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  • From andy l@21:1/5 to georg...@gmail.com on Tue Aug 30 14:45:47 2022
    On Tuesday, 30 August 2022 at 18:51:43 UTC+1, georg...@gmail.com wrote:
    A wheelchair shop will sell you a solid tire that will be easy to install on a split rim.

    I've seen those on a couple of tail dollies recently.

    Quite easy to twist it off, with a heavy tail and the wheel being pushed sideways in a place it won't easily caster, such as a rough bit at the edge of a runway or perimeter track.

    I twisted it back on using a couple of screwdrivers as tyre levers, but I wondered about strong double sided tape or glue inside the rim halves for slightly more resistance to it coming off again.

    I've forgotten to ask the owner if it's happened again since.

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  • From Bob Gibbons@21:1/5 to aneigher@gmail.com on Tue Aug 30 16:57:50 2022
    Years ago I tired of filling the pneumatic tailwheel on my Ventus cT.
    As a trial I replaced the identical tube in my tail dolly with a solid
    inner tube sold for off-road bicycles. I did take some trimming to fit
    the smaller diameter wheel, but simply butt-joining the solid tubes
    worked fine. I recall the oiginal tube was for a 26 inch bike wheel
    and was in one piece and had to be cut to size for the smaller tail
    wheel.

    When I saw the tail wheel dolly replacement worked fine, the next year
    I went ahead and replaced the main tail wheel tube with a similar
    solid tube. Weight and balance impact, as measured, was minimal.

    10 years later and tail wheel and dolly wheel are working fine.

    Bob


    On Mon, 29 Aug 2022 20:17:28 -0700 (PDT), Alex Neigher
    <aneigher@gmail.com> wrote:

    Found plenty of info on here about using a value extender in the event that the value is too short, however I have the opposite problem...

    I have an asw20 with a tail dolly of a similar vintage. I recently had to change a flat, and thankfully the split wheel made replacing the tube a piece of cake. I now have a problem where the valve stem that is part of the replacement tube is too long,
    such that it rubs against the sides of the tail dolly assembly when rotating. I noticed that the old tube's stem has a wear pattern indicative of a similar problem, so I suspect it was a problem there as well.

    Does anyone have any advice on how I can get the valve stem to sit deeper in the wheel (or something) so that it does not stick out as far?

    Best Idea i've come up with so far is a collection of washers on the valve before the two wheel halves come together? Is there risk of pinching the tube in an awkward way such that it will prematurely rupture doing this?

    Thanks!
    Alex
    4B

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  • From Roy B.@21:1/5 to All on Tue Aug 30 15:13:16 2022
    How easily it comes off depends on the fit between tire and rim. Mine was a major PITA to get on; hopefully a sign that it'll stay put.

    George:
    When mounting a difficult tire on a rim, make a 30/70 mix of dishwashing liquid soap and water. Apply it generously to the tire bead before trying to mount the tire on the rim. It makes the bead slippery and helps a lot. It sometimes also helps to get
    the new tire warm so it flexes better.
    ROY

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  • From George Haeh@21:1/5 to All on Tue Aug 30 14:58:21 2022
    How easily it comes off depends on the fit between tire and rim. Mine was a major PITA to get on; hopefully a sign that it'll stay put.

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  • From George Haeh@21:1/5 to All on Tue Aug 30 15:27:37 2022
    Did all that.

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  • From Dan Marotta@21:1/5 to George Haeh on Tue Aug 30 18:23:20 2022
    I put a solid wheel chair tire on a one-piece wheel using a hydraulic
    press and a short length of 4 inch PVC pipe as a tool to push the tire.
    Turned out the inside diameter of the tire was just a little too big
    and you could see daylight between the tire and wheel. Back to a tube...

    Dan
    5J

    On 8/30/22 11:51, George Haeh wrote:
    I ordered a Chinese tire and tube, but the tube packed it in after a few months. Possibly Tost offers better tubes.

    You are very fortunate to have a split rim. A wheelchair shop will sell you a solid tire that will be easy to install on a split rim.

    Some tire shops can put a solid fill into the tire. Once it sets, you can cut off the valve stem.

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  • From 3C@21:1/5 to Alex Neigher on Tue Aug 30 21:33:34 2022
    OOn Monday, August 29, 2022 at 10:17:30 PM UTC-5, Alex Neigher wrote:
    Found plenty of info on here about using a value extender in the event that the value is too short, however I have the opposite problem...

    I have an asw20 with a tail dolly of a similar vintage. I recently had to change a flat, and thankfully the split wheel made replacing the tube a piece of cake. I now have a problem where the valve stem that is part of the replacement tube is too long,
    such that it rubs against the sides of the tail dolly assembly when rotating. I noticed that the old tube's stem has a wear pattern indicative of a similar problem, so I suspect it was a problem there as well.

    Does anyone have any advice on how I can get the valve stem to sit deeper in the wheel (or something) so that it does not stick out as far?

    Best Idea i've come up with so far is a collection of washers on the valve before the two wheel halves come together? Is there risk of pinching the tube in an awkward way such that it will prematurely rupture doing this?

    Thanks!
    Alex
    4B
    The aviation department at Tractor Supply has a variety of inexpensive wheels with solid tires that can be used to replace tail dolly original equipment. Replacements have lasted longer than original wheels delivered new on 2 tail dollies.

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  • From Rakel@21:1/5 to All on Wed Aug 31 01:51:56 2022
    On Wednesday, August 31, 2022 at 12:33:36 AM UTC-4, 3C wrote:
    The aviation department at Tractor Supply has a variety of inexpensive wheels with solid tires that can be used to replace tail dolly original equipment. Replacements have lasted longer than original wheels delivered new on 2 tail dollies.

    This is what I did, except that I went to Home Depot and got a 5 inch caster wheel with a cast iron wheel and solid rubber tire. The mounting holes are the same as what was previously on my tail dolly.

    Hay guys, it's a tail dolly. It is not going flying with you. We do not need to overthink this.

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  • From AS@21:1/5 to Rakel on Wed Aug 31 05:28:24 2022
    On Wednesday, August 31, 2022 at 4:51:58 AM UTC-4, Rakel wrote:
    On Wednesday, August 31, 2022 at 12:33:36 AM UTC-4, 3C wrote:
    The aviation department at Tractor Supply has a variety of inexpensive wheels with solid tires that can be used to replace tail dolly original equipment. Replacements have lasted longer than original wheels delivered new on 2 tail dollies.
    This is what I did, except that I went to Home Depot and got a 5 inch caster wheel with a cast iron wheel and solid rubber tire. The mounting holes are the same as what was previously on my tail dolly.

    Hay guys, it's a tail dolly. It is not going flying with you. We do not need to overthink this.

    Beg to differ on this comment! Yes, it does not fly with you but the choice of tail dolly wheel greatly depends on the surfaces you tow your glider over. If you are 100% operating on grass/turf, then the stiffness/hardness of the tail-dolly wheel almost
    does not matter. My glider is very heavy on the tail and the previous owner had installed a solid, hard rubber wheel - he operated on grass only. I have to tow over a lot of broken asphalt and concrete and the tail got almost beaten to a pulp! One could
    hear the control rods and cables banging around inside the tail boom. I installed an air tire with a rubber damper element (W&W has them), which makes for a super-smooth tow over our bumpy terrain. Be good to your tail!

    Uli
    'AS'

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  • From Charlie M. (UH & 002 owner/pilot)@21:1/5 to All on Wed Aug 31 05:22:04 2022
    On Wednesday, August 31, 2022 at 12:33:36 AM UTC-4, 3C wrote:
    OOn Monday, August 29, 2022 at 10:17:30 PM UTC-5, Alex Neigher wrote:
    Found plenty of info on here about using a value extender in the event that the value is too short, however I have the opposite problem...

    I have an asw20 with a tail dolly of a similar vintage. I recently had to change a flat, and thankfully the split wheel made replacing the tube a piece of cake. I now have a problem where the valve stem that is part of the replacement tube is too
    long, such that it rubs against the sides of the tail dolly assembly when rotating. I noticed that the old tube's stem has a wear pattern indicative of a similar problem, so I suspect it was a problem there as well.

    Does anyone have any advice on how I can get the valve stem to sit deeper in the wheel (or something) so that it does not stick out as far?

    Best Idea i've come up with so far is a collection of washers on the valve before the two wheel halves come together? Is there risk of pinching the tube in an awkward way such that it will prematurely rupture doing this?

    Thanks!
    Alex
    4B
    The aviation department at Tractor Supply has a variety of inexpensive wheels with solid tires that can be used to replace tail dolly original equipment. Replacements have lasted longer than original wheels delivered new on 2 tail dollies.

    The issue with solid tires on heavy tails is on hot days on a runway/taxiway. The heat and weight can squish a tire to a larger diameter allowing it to come off the rim.

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  • From AS@21:1/5 to All on Wed Aug 31 05:32:40 2022
    On Wednesday, August 31, 2022 at 8:22:06 AM UTC-4, Charlie M. (UH & 002 owner/pilot) wrote:
    On Wednesday, August 31, 2022 at 12:33:36 AM UTC-4, 3C wrote:
    OOn Monday, August 29, 2022 at 10:17:30 PM UTC-5, Alex Neigher wrote:
    Found plenty of info on here about using a value extender in the event that the value is too short, however I have the opposite problem...

    I have an asw20 with a tail dolly of a similar vintage. I recently had to change a flat, and thankfully the split wheel made replacing the tube a piece of cake. I now have a problem where the valve stem that is part of the replacement tube is too
    long, such that it rubs against the sides of the tail dolly assembly when rotating. I noticed that the old tube's stem has a wear pattern indicative of a similar problem, so I suspect it was a problem there as well.

    Does anyone have any advice on how I can get the valve stem to sit deeper in the wheel (or something) so that it does not stick out as far?

    Best Idea i've come up with so far is a collection of washers on the valve before the two wheel halves come together? Is there risk of pinching the tube in an awkward way such that it will prematurely rupture doing this?

    Thanks!
    Alex
    4B
    The aviation department at Tractor Supply has a variety of inexpensive wheels with solid tires that can be used to replace tail dolly original equipment. Replacements have lasted longer than original wheels delivered new on 2 tail dollies.
    The issue with solid tires on heavy tails is on hot days on a runway/taxiway. The heat and weight can squish a tire to a larger diameter allowing it to come off the rim.

    I can confirm that! Have seen it twice in Moriarty, NM, where you can fry an egg on the taxi-ways! One of the occurrences was my own solid tire!

    Uli
    'AS'

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  • From 3C@21:1/5 to All on Wed Aug 31 19:01:49 2022
    On Wednesday, August 31, 2022 at 7:32:42 AM UTC-5, AS wrote:
    On Wednesday, August 31, 2022 at 8:22:06 AM UTC-4, Charlie M. (UH & 002 owner/pilot) wrote:
    On Wednesday, August 31, 2022 at 12:33:36 AM UTC-4, 3C wrote:
    OOn Monday, August 29, 2022 at 10:17:30 PM UTC-5, Alex Neigher wrote:
    Found plenty of info on here about using a value extender in the event that the value is too short, however I have the opposite problem...

    I have an asw20 with a tail dolly of a similar vintage. I recently had to change a flat, and thankfully the split wheel made replacing the tube a piece of cake. I now have a problem where the valve stem that is part of the replacement tube is too
    long, such that it rubs against the sides of the tail dolly assembly when rotating. I noticed that the old tube's stem has a wear pattern indicative of a similar problem, so I suspect it was a problem there as well.

    Does anyone have any advice on how I can get the valve stem to sit deeper in the wheel (or something) so that it does not stick out as far?

    Best Idea i've come up with so far is a collection of washers on the valve before the two wheel halves come together? Is there risk of pinching the tube in an awkward way such that it will prematurely rupture doing this?

    Thanks!
    Alex
    4B
    The aviation department at Tractor Supply has a variety of inexpensive wheels with solid tires that can be used to replace tail dolly original equipment. Replacements have lasted longer than original wheels delivered new on 2 tail dollies.
    The issue with solid tires on heavy tails is on hot days on a runway/taxiway. The heat and weight can squish a tire to a larger diameter allowing it to come off the rim.
    I can confirm that! Have seen it twice in Moriarty, NM, where you can fry an egg on the taxi-ways! One of the occurrences was my own solid tire!

    Uli
    'AS'
    The other one you saw may have been mine as I lost a cobra dolly solid tire there a few years back!

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  • From eastpennservices@ptd.net@21:1/5 to Alex Neigher on Mon Sep 5 17:02:37 2022
    On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:17:30 PM UTC-4, Alex Neigher wrote:
    Found plenty of info on here about using a value extender in the event that the value is too short, however I have the opposite problem...

    I have an asw20 with a tail dolly of a similar vintage. I recently had to change a flat, and thankfully the split wheel made replacing the tube a piece of cake. I now have a problem where the valve stem that is part of the replacement tube is too long,
    such that it rubs against the sides of the tail dolly assembly when rotating. I noticed that the old tube's stem has a wear pattern indicative of a similar problem, so I suspect it was a problem there as well.

    Does anyone have any advice on how I can get the valve stem to sit deeper in the wheel (or something) so that it does not stick out as far?

    Best Idea i've come up with so far is a collection of washers on the valve before the two wheel halves come together? Is there risk of pinching the tube in an awkward way such that it will prematurely rupture doing this?

    Thanks!
    Alex
    4B
    Hello Alex
    I replaced my tail dolly tube two weeks ago and had a problem with the stem contacting the side . Hmmmm??? The new tube has the same length as the original . After a closer look the spacers are actually different thicknesses so easy fix was to switch
    the spacers and the problem was gone. The wheel is actually offset in the fork .
    Thanks
    Bob
    D8

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  • From Alex Neigher@21:1/5 to All on Tue Sep 6 07:01:08 2022
    Hi all,

    Thanks for the advice. I was able to procure a new tube that had a 90* bend in the vale stem like the original, but it also had a 30* degree rotation offset. This allows the valve stem to protrude in a much less perpendicular direction providing the
    necessary clearance from the hub frame. Wings and Wheels stocks them :)

    Cheers,
    Alex

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