• Re: California salvage title - lessons learned fixing all the lights, e

    From ""Retired"@home.com@21:1/5 to Mayayana on Wed Dec 22 17:05:41 2021
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On 12/22/21 4:32 PM, Mayayana wrote:
    California salvage title - lessons learned (it took 3 tries to pass!)

    1. If your car is old (like mine) then it's easy to "total" it
    2. Their insurance company pay almost nothing for it (at over 300K miles)
    3. Their insurance will pay you even less than that to let you keep it
    4. Then their insurance will report it to the DMV as a "salvage" vehicle
    5. After that you can stay on your registration only until it expires
    6. When your registration expires, you can NOT ever renew it ever again
    7. You must get a _new_ title & plates from the DMV as a salvage vehicle

    The requirements for a new title for a California vehicle apparently are:
    a. You must pass a specific STAR smog inspection for non-standard vehicles
    b. You must pass all brake requirements for new vehicles sold in California c. That means they will drive the vehicle to test the brakes (including ABS) d. And they remove all four wheels to check pad, shoe, rotor & drum specs
    e. They will check the calipers, boots & brake lines for evidence of wear
    f. You must pass all light requirements for new vehicles sold in California g. All exterior lights must work & all dash light indicators must also work h. That means even the blue highbeam indicator on the panel must be working i. And all turn signal lights must work and the emergency brake light too
    j. No light is allowed to be cracked, broken, crooked, or fogged in any way k. That means even the license plate lights must work (ask me how I know)
    l. Headlights do not need to be aimed properly but they must be adjustable
    m. All dash indicators for lights must be working properly such as signals

    The smog check can be done at any STAR certified smog station but the brake and light checks can only be done by California certified independent shops.

    When you finally get to the California DMV office
    A. They will physically check the VIN in about a dozen places on the vehicle B. They told me they're looking for stolen parts and stolen vehicles
    C. You will surrender to the DMV your old title (they give you a new one)
    D. You will surrender to the DMV your old plates (they give you new ones)
    E. You must give them the two certificates (one for brake & one for lights) F. They didn't ask me for the smog certificate (must be on file already)
    G. They need a claim number & price insurance paid (ask me how I know this) H. They didn't ask for proof of insurance (probably it too is on file)
    I. A few hundred dollars (California charges tax on all cars yearly)

    If you miss any one of those (e.g., sheet metal screws in the side marker lights), they will not issue the salvage title & you can't register it.

    The hardest part for me was my license plate light bulbs weren't working which turned out to be a need to solder & splice fatigued often bent wires.

    The process in CT sounds even worse

    https://portal.ct.gov/-/media/DMV/20/29/b256pdf.pdf

    includes things like before and after photos of repairs, receipts for
    all part used, car has to be *towed* to and from the inspection site,
    etc etc


    My 2008 Ford Fusion with *only* 43,000 miles was totaled re $5000 repair estimate. I could have done it myself for about $1500, all cosmetic,
    nothing mechanical,  right front end scrape.

    I saw where ins. co sold it at auction for $1200 to a body shop/used car
    lot who will probably either repair and sell it, or use as a part out.
    Rest of car was showroom clean.

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  • From John Robertson@21:1/5 to Mayayana on Wed Dec 22 14:06:26 2021
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On 2021/12/22 1:32 p.m., Mayayana wrote:
    California salvage title - lessons learned (it took 3 tries to pass!)

    1. If your car is old (like mine) then it's easy to "total" it

    Do they not have a Classic Car licence for vehicles over X years? Or
    does that have too many restrictions?

    John :-#)#

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  • From AMuzi@21:1/5 to Mayayana on Wed Dec 22 16:18:49 2021
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    On 12/22/2021 3:32 PM, Mayayana wrote:
    California salvage title - lessons learned (it took 3 tries to pass!)

    1. If your car is old (like mine) then it's easy to "total" it
    2. Their insurance company pay almost nothing for it (at over 300K miles)
    3. Their insurance will pay you even less than that to let you keep it
    4. Then their insurance will report it to the DMV as a "salvage" vehicle
    5. After that you can stay on your registration only until it expires
    6. When your registration expires, you can NOT ever renew it ever again
    7. You must get a _new_ title & plates from the DMV as a salvage vehicle

    The requirements for a new title for a California vehicle apparently are:
    a. You must pass a specific STAR smog inspection for non-standard vehicles
    b. You must pass all brake requirements for new vehicles sold in California c. That means they will drive the vehicle to test the brakes (including ABS) d. And they remove all four wheels to check pad, shoe, rotor & drum specs
    e. They will check the calipers, boots & brake lines for evidence of wear
    f. You must pass all light requirements for new vehicles sold in California g. All exterior lights must work & all dash light indicators must also work h. That means even the blue highbeam indicator on the panel must be working i. And all turn signal lights must work and the emergency brake light too
    j. No light is allowed to be cracked, broken, crooked, or fogged in any way k. That means even the license plate lights must work (ask me how I know)
    l. Headlights do not need to be aimed properly but they must be adjustable
    m. All dash indicators for lights must be working properly such as signals

    The smog check can be done at any STAR certified smog station but the brake and light checks can only be done by California certified independent shops.

    When you finally get to the California DMV office
    A. They will physically check the VIN in about a dozen places on the vehicle B. They told me they're looking for stolen parts and stolen vehicles
    C. You will surrender to the DMV your old title (they give you a new one)
    D. You will surrender to the DMV your old plates (they give you new ones)
    E. You must give them the two certificates (one for brake & one for lights) F. They didn't ask me for the smog certificate (must be on file already)
    G. They need a claim number & price insurance paid (ask me how I know this) H. They didn't ask for proof of insurance (probably it too is on file)
    I. A few hundred dollars (California charges tax on all cars yearly)

    If you miss any one of those (e.g., sheet metal screws in the side marker lights), they will not issue the salvage title & you can't register it.

    The hardest part for me was my license plate light bulbs weren't working which turned out to be a need to solder & splice fatigued often bent wires.



    "We're from the government. We're here to help you."

    Not.

    --
    Andrew Muzi
    <www.yellowjersey.org/>
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971

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  • From Mayayana@21:1/5 to "Retired on Wed Dec 22 19:17:36 2021
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    ""Retired" <@home.com> wrote

    The process in CT sounds even worse

    https://portal.ct.gov/-/media/DMV/20/29/b256pdf.pdf

    That Connecticut process _does_ look even worse than California!
    But what does it mean when they said "salvages cannot be rebuilt".

    In Connecticut you need before and after photos and descriptions of how th3e repairs were made and receipts and they can even inspect the undercoating by scraping it away for the DMV inspection process to be completed.

    Also in Connecticut you apparently need the airbags inspected by licensed technicians.

    I'm amazed they check the hood latches, the hinges, the bumpers and energy absorbers, even the height and length, the windshield and window tinting,
    the adhesives used, the visibility of the VIN from outside, the windows, and even the interior seats, seat position locks, seat back locks, seat belts, defroster, heater fan, trunk, and even trunk seals and underbody rust.

    They check the alignment it says in the PDF (how can they do that at a DMV?)
    includes things like before and after photos of repairs, receipts for
    all part used, car has to be *towed* to and from the inspection site,
    etc etc

    Wow. Towing. Mandatory. With no wheels on the road.

    Luckily for me I drove mine to the smog and brake and light inspection
    shops, and then to the DMV office but I've also been driving it for months where in Connecticut, based on your pdf, they "cancel" your registration the instant the DMV gets the notice from the insurance company so that would
    have made it illegal to drive on the public roads.

    My 2008 Ford Fusion with *only* 43,000 miles was totaled re $5000 repair estimate. I could have done it myself for about $1500, all cosmetic,
    nothing mechanical,  right front end scrape.

    This has only about 250K miles but it's still going strong. The damage is cosmetic, but as you noted, almost anything will total a twenty-five year
    old vehicle even if the engine and drive train are still running strong.

    One difference is California keeps the "salvage" title while Connecticut apparently changes the title from salvage to "rebuilt" if that matters.

    I saw where ins. co sold it at auction for $1200 to a body shop/used car
    lot who will probably either repair and sell it, or use as a part out.
    Rest of car was showroom clean.

    I saw in the DMV a sign saying you need a special license just to dismantle your car or to sell the parts off your own car! https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/vehicle-industry-services/occupational-licensing/occupational-licenses/dismantler-license/

    There seem to be tons of rules for just taking a fender off and selling it
    as a used part. https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/handbook/dismantlers-handbook-of-registration-procedures/dismantlers-license/

    Maybe they only apply to dealers but the sign in the DMV said nobody can dismantle a car or sell the parts without a license. https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/handbook/dismantlers-handbook-of-registration-procedures/acquiring-and-dismantling-vehicles/

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  • From Scott Dorsey@21:1/5 to mayayana@invalid.nospam on Thu Dec 23 18:42:59 2021
    XPost: alt.home.repair, sci.electronics.repair

    Mayayana <mayayana@invalid.nospam> wrote:
    ""Retired" <@home.com> wrote

    The process in CT sounds even worse

    https://portal.ct.gov/-/media/DMV/20/29/b256pdf.pdf

    That Connecticut process _does_ look even worse than California!
    But what does it mean when they said "salvages cannot be rebuilt".

    It means you can't get a salvage title on a car and then build a car from random parts and use the salvage title on it.

    In general, getting a car totalled is not worth it for a car that is of
    low value. You get a couple hundred dollars from the insurance company,
    then you go through all sorts of craziness in order to get it back on the
    road.

    That craziness exists to prevent people from getting hundreds of thousands
    in insurance on a Ferrari and then getting a salvage title and driving it around while paying minimal taxes on it.

    It is assumed that unless you're going to be getting a lot of money from your insurance company that you'll just withdraw the claim. Which is what the original poster should have done.
    --scott

    --
    "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

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  • From Michael Trew@21:1/5 to Mayayana on Fri Dec 24 00:34:02 2021
    On 12/22/2021 18:17, Mayayana wrote:
    ""Retired"<@home.com> wrote

    The process in CT sounds even worse

    https://portal.ct.gov/-/media/DMV/20/29/b256pdf.pdf

    That Connecticut process _does_ look even worse than California!
    But what does it mean when they said "salvages cannot be rebuilt".

    In Connecticut you need before and after photos and descriptions of how th3e repairs were made and receipts and they can even inspect the undercoating by scraping it away for the DMV inspection process to be completed.

    Also in Connecticut you apparently need the airbags inspected by licensed technicians.

    I'm amazed they check the hood latches, the hinges, the bumpers and energy absorbers, even the height and length, the windshield and window tinting,
    the adhesives used, the visibility of the VIN from outside, the windows, and even the interior seats, seat position locks, seat back locks, seat belts, defroster, heater fan, trunk, and even trunk seals and underbody rust.

    I thought Ohio's salvage car inspection to make the title rebuilt was
    annoying. Boy, I'm sure glad that I don't live in one of these states.
    Vermont is nice, I've heard, with NO titles for vehicles over 15 years
    of age; just bill of sale to register the car!

    Me, I'm blessed to live in an area with NO emissions or inspection. I literally drive whatever I want, and pick up cars from Pennsylvania that
    won't pass their state inspection for sometimes just a few hundred dollars.

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  • From Michael Trew@21:1/5 to Mayayana on Fri Dec 24 00:30:06 2021
    On 12/22/2021 16:32, Mayayana wrote:
    California salvage title - lessons learned (it took 3 tries to pass!)

    1. If your car is old (like mine) then it's easy to "total" it
    2. Their insurance company pay almost nothing for it (at over 300K miles)
    3. Their insurance will pay you even less than that to let you keep it
    4. Then their insurance will report it to the DMV as a "salvage" vehicle
    5. After that you can stay on your registration only until it expires
    6. When your registration expires, you can NOT ever renew it ever again
    7. You must get a _new_ title& plates from the DMV as a salvage vehicle

    The requirements for a new title for a California vehicle apparently are:
    a. You must pass a specific STAR smog inspection for non-standard vehicles
    b. You must pass all brake requirements for new vehicles sold in California c. That means they will drive the vehicle to test the brakes (including ABS) d. And they remove all four wheels to check pad, shoe, rotor& drum specs
    e. They will check the calipers, boots& brake lines for evidence of wear
    f. You must pass all light requirements for new vehicles sold in California g. All exterior lights must work& all dash light indicators must also work h. That means even the blue highbeam indicator on the panel must be working i. And all turn signal lights must work and the emergency brake light too
    j. No light is allowed to be cracked, broken, crooked, or fogged in any way k. That means even the license plate lights must work (ask me how I know)
    l. Headlights do not need to be aimed properly but they must be adjustable
    m. All dash indicators for lights must be working properly such as signals

    The smog check can be done at any STAR certified smog station but the brake and light checks can only be done by California certified independent shops.

    When you finally get to the California DMV office
    A. They will physically check the VIN in about a dozen places on the vehicle B. They told me they're looking for stolen parts and stolen vehicles
    C. You will surrender to the DMV your old title (they give you a new one)
    D. You will surrender to the DMV your old plates (they give you new ones)
    E. You must give them the two certificates (one for brake& one for lights) F. They didn't ask me for the smog certificate (must be on file already)
    G. They need a claim number& price insurance paid (ask me how I know this) H. They didn't ask for proof of insurance (probably it too is on file)
    I. A few hundred dollars (California charges tax on all cars yearly)

    If you miss any one of those (e.g., sheet metal screws in the side marker lights), they will not issue the salvage title& you can't register it.

    The hardest part for me was my license plate light bulbs weren't working which turned out to be a need to solder& splice fatigued often bent wires.

    Yikes! No wonder I find old/salvage cars pop up in California for
    cheap. I can never figure out why sometimes almost perfect looking cars
    in Cali will be for sale for well under $1k sometimes.

    I've also heard that if the car sits not registered for years with prior California registration, you must pay for ALL of those years before they
    will register it again, hence the owner would rather sell it to someone
    out of state.

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  • From knuttle@21:1/5 to Michael Trew on Sun Dec 26 21:54:27 2021
    On 2021/12/24 5:30 am, Michael Trew wrote:

    I've also heard that if the car sits not registered for years with prior California registration, you must pay for ALL of those years before they
    will register it again, hence the owner would rather sell it to someone
    out of state.

    I've heard different stories on California registration when you skip a year
    or two or three so it would be nice if someone who lives in California could clarify which it is.

    One story is as you said above that if you don't register in any one year or two or three (say you're not using the car all that time) you still have to
    pay ALL the missing registration (plus penalties) before you can register it
    in California ever again.

    Another story I've heard is you only have to pay the full fees for that year that you finally register it so if it's a January registration and you
    register it in June, you have to pay all the way back to January of that
    year.

    Which is it?
    I don't know.

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