I never did brakes but my dual piston front brake caliper boots are torn. Calling parts suppliers tells me I have two economical choices.
One is a $50 "semi loaded" rebuilt caliper (with $50 core charge) and the other is a $15 O'Reilly or Napa gasket rebuild rebuild kit. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/brakebest-hardware---hydraulics-261/brake-systems-4579/brake-hydraulics-4611/brake-caliper-repair-kit-199/d3a58bb0a88a/brakebest-brake-caliper-repair-kit/41248/227853?pos=2
What does semi loaded mean and how hard is it to rebuild a caliper anyway?
I never did brakes but my dual piston front brake caliper boots are torn. Calling parts suppliers tells me I have two economical choices.
One is a $50 "semi loaded" rebuilt caliper (with $50 core charge) and the other is a $15 O'Reilly or Napa gasket rebuild rebuild kit. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/brakebest-hardware---hydraulics-261/brake-systems-4579/brake-hydraulics-4611/brake-caliper-repair-kit-199/d3a58bb0a88a/brakebest-brake-caliper-repair-kit/41248/227853?pos=2
What does semi loaded mean and how hard is it to rebuild a caliper anyway?
What does semi loaded mean and how hard is it to rebuild a caliper anyway?
https://homegearly.com/difference-between-loaded-and-unloaded-brake-calipers/
The car is more than twenty years old so it specifies DOT3 but I googled and it seems I can put DOT4 in the master cylinder instead which google said has higher heat resistance.
Semi loaded could mean anything. Call and ask what comes with the calipers.
You can easily rebuild the existing calipers yourself, IF:
1) the insides of the calibers are not too rusty.
2) the pistons are not rusty, not scratched, and still chrome plated.
3) the bleeder is removable and not rusty.
Check the slides. May need new slide hardware.
Don't let any air get into the system.
Paul in Houston TX <Paul@Houston.Texas> wrote:
Semi loaded could mean anything. Call and ask what comes with the calipers. >>
You can easily rebuild the existing calipers yourself, IF:
1) the insides of the calibers are not too rusty.
2) the pistons are not rusty, not scratched, and still chrome plated.
3) the bleeder is removable and not rusty.
Check the slides. May need new slide hardware.
Don't let any air get into the system.
I bought this kind of brake piston spreader which won't fit because the calipers are completely enclosed so I can't spread the pistons with it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085HF434D/
What kind of piston spreader works when there is no side opening?
DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 are compatible. DOT 5 is silicone based and in not compatible. Why DOT didn't go to 6 to avoid confusion is beyond me.
the only thing 5 has going for it is it doesn't remove paint if you're sloppy. Other than that it's a PITA.
""Retired" <@home.com> wrote:
What does semi loaded mean and how hard is it to rebuild a caliper anyway? >>https://homegearly.com/difference-between-loaded-and-unloaded-brake-calipers/
After reading that reference, is this correct on the package differences?
Loaded = Caliper & pistons & caliper mounting gear & pads & pad mounting H/W Semiloaded = Caliper & pistons & caliper mounting gear but not pads or H/W Unloaded = Caliper & pistons only (even some caliper components are missing) The missing caliper mounting gear might be brackets, bolts, bleeders & pins.
I tried rockauto but that system of ever expanding plus signs was too difficult for me as a novice. I'm sure it's fine for you experts though.
I ordered over the phone from Carid the pads, the rotors, and the
semi-loaded calipers but not the high temperature grease as it was a $16 shipping for a $0.55 cent 0.14 ounce tube. The brake fluid was only by the case so I still have to get the brake fluid (is one quart enough?).
The car is more than twenty years old so it specifies DOT3 but I googled and it seems I can put DOT4 in the master cylinder instead which google said has higher heat resistance.
What someone said about rebuilding being a pain influenced that decision.
So did what someone else said about pistons can be pitted or rusted.
To clarify what someone else asked, I meant the boots on the dual pistons. And for lube a friend lent me a tub of quality Mobil1 wheel bearing grease.
The range of rotors was so confusingly huge that I opted for the cheapest.
The decision on pads was only $3 between semi-metallic and ceramic and the Carid salesman said the ceramic was better for less dusting (not that I care all that much about brake dust on twenty year old blackened steel wheels).
As someone mentioned I will ask my girlfriend to help me bleed. The caliper has a metal line going into it so I may have to plug it up with something.
I never did brakes but my dual piston front brake caliper boots are torn. Calling parts suppliers tells me I have two economical choices.
One is a $50 "semi loaded" rebuilt caliper (with $50 core charge) and the other is a $15 O'Reilly or Napa gasket rebuild rebuild kit. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/brakebest-hardware---hydraulics-261/brake-systems-4579/brake-hydraulics-4611/brake-caliper-repair-kit-199/d3a58bb0a88a/brakebest-brake-caliper-repair-kit/41248/227853?pos=2
What does semi loaded mean and how hard is it to rebuild a caliper anyway?
""Retired" <@home.com> wrote:
What does semi loaded mean and how hard is it to rebuild a caliper anyway? >>https://homegearly.com/difference-between-loaded-and-unloaded-brake-calipers/
After reading that reference, is this correct on the package differences?
Loaded = Caliper & pistons & caliper mounting gear & pads & pad mounting H/W >Semiloaded = Caliper & pistons & caliper mounting gear but not pads or H/W >Unloaded = Caliper & pistons only (even some caliper components are missing) >The missing caliper mounting gear might be brackets, bolts, bleeders & pins.
I tried rockauto but that system of ever expanding plus signs was too >difficult for me as a novice. I'm sure it's fine for you experts though.
I ordered over the phone from Carid the pads, the rotors, and the
semi-loaded calipers but not the high temperature grease as it was a $16 >shipping for a $0.55 cent 0.14 ounce tube.
The brake fluid was only by the
case so I still have to get the brake fluid (is one quart enough?).
The car is more than twenty years old so it specifies DOT3 but I googled and >it seems I can put DOT4 in the master cylinder instead which google said has >higher heat resistance.
What someone said about rebuilding being a pain influenced that decision.
So did what someone else said about pistons can be pitted or rusted.
To clarify what someone else asked, I meant the boots on the dual pistons. >And for lube a friend lent me a tub of quality Mobil1 wheel bearing grease.
The range of rotors was so confusingly huge that I opted for the cheapest.
The decision on pads was only $3 between semi-metallic and ceramic and the >Carid salesman said the ceramic was better for less dusting (not that I care >all that much about brake dust on twenty year old blackened steel wheels).
As someone mentioned I will ask my girlfriend to help me bleed. The caliper
has a metal line going into it so I may have to plug it up with something.
Go find some hi-temp brake grease locally. Don't use the
Mobil bearing grease.
bottle.You can bleed the brakes yourself with a hose from the bleeder to a
On 12/12/2021 12:22 AM, Paul in Houston TX wrote:
bottle.You can bleed the brakes yourself with a hose from the bleeder to a
Does that work with antilock brakes?
On 12/13/2021 7:10 PM, bud-- wrote:
On 12/12/2021 12:22 AM, Paul in Houston TX wrote:
bottle.You can bleed the brakes yourself with a hose from the bleeder to a
Does that work with antilock brakes?
It does for me. Google it for your vehicle.
On 12/12/2021 12:22 AM, Paul in Houston TX wrote:
bottle.You can bleed the brakes yourself with a hose from the bleeder to a
Does that work with antilock brakes?
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