XPost: alt.home.repair
In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 10 Dec 2021 10:40:31 -0700, John Robertson <
spam@flippers.com> wrote:
Debugged about half of sixteen wires in the tightly wrapped rear hatchback >door wiring harness snorkel loom as broken at the exact same point for each.
I know all the other words but what do you mean by snorkel loom?
Harness is too much work and expense to replace as too much has to be ripped >open to replace it and it doesn't even seem that they sell it so I can only >find used ones on Ebay. Plus time is of the essence as I have to pass an >inspection.
I'll stagger the splices so that none of the connections are actually in the >snorkel bend that flex when the rear hatchback door is opened & closed. I'll >also position the splices (one at each end of the inserted wires) so that no >two splices are next to each other.
It looks like about ~20 AWG wire for most of the broken wires.
Some are slightly larger but not by much.
What kind of ~20 gauge wire splice would you suggest given it's a tight fit?
Solder connections are the thinnest, if you get pretty good at it. If
you haven't done much, practice on something else. Make sure the work is
hot before applying the solder and it should melt and take barely any
width other than what the wires themselves take up. If you scrape the
wire ends with knife first, and twist one wire around the other, end to
end, the solder will stick right away, and the soldered part only has to
be 1/4" long if that is an issue. Put shrink wrap on the wire before
the second soldering!
Even if you don't use the perfecly flexible wire, it last for ? years
the first time and will probably last almost that long this time.
I doubt anything uses more current than 20 gauge will handle. In my
limited experience, up to 1995, American cars had thick wire and Toyota
had thinner wire. My guess is that after the war, the Japanese were econmizing in wire and saw no reason to stop.
--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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