• How do YOU choose your tires when you buy them online like I often do?

    From Andy Burnelli@21:1/5 to All on Thu Dec 9 21:32:44 2021
    I'm buying tires at SimpleTire and the default sort is "recommended" but
    other options are "highest to lowest" and "lowest to highest" choices.

    It got me wondering...
    Who sorts a set of 4 tires by price high to low? Or by brand?

    I'm 75 and have replaced my tires for decades where my current philosophy is that (a) tires are tires, and (if you're replacing all four as a set), then
    you (b) you buy that set by the spec and finally, (c), if the specs are
    almost or exactly the same, then you decide by price (lower is better).

    Hence I sort tires online by spec first, not by price nor by brand.
    1. It has to fit (for example, P225/75R15 if buying for all four wheels)
    2. It has to be right (for example, All-Season, load range 102S or better)
    3. It has to be good (for example, TRACTION=AA TREADWEAR=500 TEMPERATURE=A)

    I know people who buy by warranty, which means that what they care about
    isn't the price performance qualities of the tire itself since warranty is
    an artificial marketing component of the tire sale.

    Others will tell you that they buy the most well advertised brand (for
    example, Michelin or GoodYear) but they usually don't even know WHERE their tires are built (Indonesia for example) before that brand is stamped on the tires (the point being that multiple brands are the same exact tire in many cases).

    And yet, others buy by price, but from highest to lowest, and they're often
    the same people claiming that "you get what you pay for" which is never
    correct (you get what others set the price at which is almost always a
    function of brand marketing and almost never of quality in tires).

    In the end, the price is a function of the basics:
    A. The cost of the tire (for example, $100/tire)
    B. The cost of sales tax (for example 10%)
    C. The cost of shipping (for example $15/tire)
    D. The cost of mounting/balancing/valves/disposal (for example $20/wheel)

    While any online tire seller (Tire Rack, Simple Tire, Carid, etc.) will ship directly to the tire mounting shop, I mount/balance my own so I save on a
    few things (e.g., SimpleTire doesn't charge for shipping and dynamic balance DIY tests are free, or if you don't trust your own dynamic balance tests, I think Costco will check the dynamic balance for $5/tire last I asked and
    they will dispose of old tires for $1/tire plus local sales tax).

    Anyway, I was just shopping for tires and wondered why the default sort
    order is what it is, given the default should be lowest-to-highest within
    spec, in my humble opinion.

    What's your humble opinion?
    How do YOU choose a set of new tires when you order them online?

    (Maybe I can learn something from your experience and acumen.)
    --
    If you're replacing fewer than 4/5 tires, then of course matching the tires becomes an issue that you don't have when you are replacing the entire set.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Wade Garrett@21:1/5 to Andy Burnelli on Thu Dec 9 18:44:11 2021
    On 12/9/21 4:32 PM, Andy Burnelli wrote:
    I'm buying tires at SimpleTire and the default sort is "recommended" but other options are "highest to lowest" and "lowest to highest" choices.

    It got me wondering...
    Who sorts a set of 4 tires by price high to low? Or by brand?

    I'm 75 and have replaced my tires for decades where my current philosophy is that (a) tires are tires, and (if you're replacing all four as a set), then you (b) you buy that set by the spec and finally, (c), if the specs are almost or exactly the same, then you decide by price (lower is better).

    Hence I sort tires online by spec first, not by price nor by brand.
    1. It has to fit (for example, P225/75R15 if buying for all four wheels)
    2. It has to be right (for example, All-Season, load range 102S or better)
    3. It has to be good (for example, TRACTION=AA TREADWEAR=500 TEMPERATURE=A)

    I know people who buy by warranty, which means that what they care about isn't the price performance qualities of the tire itself since warranty is
    an artificial marketing component of the tire sale.

    Others will tell you that they buy the most well advertised brand (for example, Michelin or GoodYear) but they usually don't even know WHERE their tires are built (Indonesia for example) before that brand is stamped on the tires (the point being that multiple brands are the same exact tire in many cases).

    And yet, others buy by price, but from highest to lowest, and they're often the same people claiming that "you get what you pay for" which is never correct (you get what others set the price at which is almost always a function of brand marketing and almost never of quality in tires).

    In the end, the price is a function of the basics:
    A. The cost of the tire (for example, $100/tire)
    B. The cost of sales tax (for example 10%)
    C. The cost of shipping (for example $15/tire)
    D. The cost of mounting/balancing/valves/disposal (for example $20/wheel)

    While any online tire seller (Tire Rack, Simple Tire, Carid, etc.) will ship directly to the tire mounting shop, I mount/balance my own so I save on a
    few things (e.g., SimpleTire doesn't charge for shipping and dynamic balance DIY tests are free, or if you don't trust your own dynamic balance tests, I think Costco will check the dynamic balance for $5/tire last I asked and
    they will dispose of old tires for $1/tire plus local sales tax).

    Anyway, I was just shopping for tires and wondered why the default sort
    order is what it is, given the default should be lowest-to-highest within spec, in my humble opinion.

    What's your humble opinion?
    How do YOU choose a set of new tires when you order them online?

    (Maybe I can learn something from your experience and acumen.)

    For the first tire replacement on a purchased-new vehicle, I usually
    install the same ones that the manufacturer supplied. Of course that
    assumes I liked how they handled and gave reasonable tread life.

    --
    If a man says he will fix it, he will. There’s no need to remind him
    every three months.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Ken Olson@21:1/5 to Wade Garrett on Thu Dec 9 19:07:18 2021
    On 12/9/2021 6:44 PM, Wade Garrett wrote:
    On 12/9/21 4:32 PM, Andy Burnelli wrote:
    I'm buying tires at SimpleTire and the default sort is "recommended" but
    other options are "highest to lowest" and "lowest to highest" choices.

    It got me wondering...
    Who sorts a set of 4 tires by price high to low? Or by brand?

    I'm 75 and have replaced my tires for decades where my current
    philosophy is
    that (a) tires are tires, and (if you're replacing all four as a set),
    then
    you (b) you buy that set by the spec and finally, (c), if the specs are
    almost or exactly the same, then you decide by price (lower is better).

    Hence I sort tires online by spec first, not by price nor by brand.
    1. It has to fit (for example, P225/75R15 if buying for all four wheels)
    2. It has to be right (for example, All-Season, load range 102S or
    better)
    3. It has to be good (for example, TRACTION=AA TREADWEAR=500
    TEMPERATURE=A)

    I know people who buy by warranty, which means that what they care about
    isn't the price performance qualities of the tire itself since
    warranty is
    an artificial marketing component of the tire sale.

    Others will tell you that they buy the most well advertised brand (for
    example, Michelin or GoodYear) but they usually don't even know WHERE
    their
    tires are built (Indonesia for example) before that brand is stamped
    on the
    tires (the point being that multiple brands are the same exact tire in
    many
    cases).

    And yet, others buy by price, but from highest to lowest, and they're
    often
    the same people claiming that "you get what you pay for" which is never
    correct (you get what others set the price at which is almost always a
    function of brand marketing and almost never of quality in tires).

    In the end, the price is a function of the basics:
    A. The cost of the tire (for example, $100/tire)
    B. The cost of sales tax (for example 10%)
    C. The cost of shipping (for example $15/tire)
    D. The cost of mounting/balancing/valves/disposal (for example $20/wheel)

    While any online tire seller (Tire Rack, Simple Tire, Carid, etc.)
    will ship
    directly to the tire mounting shop, I mount/balance my own so I save on a
    few things (e.g., SimpleTire doesn't charge for shipping and dynamic
    balance
    DIY tests are free, or if you don't trust your own dynamic balance
    tests, I
    think Costco will check the dynamic balance for $5/tire last I asked and
    they will dispose of old tires for $1/tire plus local sales tax).

    Anyway, I was just shopping for tires and wondered why the default sort
    order is what it is, given the default should be lowest-to-highest within
    spec, in my humble opinion.

    What's your humble opinion?
    How do YOU choose a set of new tires when you order them online?

    (Maybe I can learn something from your experience and acumen.)

    For the first tire replacement on a purchased-new vehicle, I usually
    install the same ones that the manufacturer supplied. Of course that
    assumes I liked how they handled and gave reasonable tread life.


    So far, I like Nokian tires.

    --
    ÄLSKAR - Fänga Dagen

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Vic Smith@21:1/5 to Wade Garrett on Fri Dec 10 09:45:02 2021
    On Thu, 9 Dec 2021 18:44:11 -0500, Wade Garrett <Wade@cooler.net> wrote:

    On 12/9/21 4:32 PM, Andy Burnelli wrote:
    I'm buying tires at SimpleTire and the default sort is "recommended" but
    other options are "highest to lowest" and "lowest to highest" choices.

    It got me wondering...
    Who sorts a set of 4 tires by price high to low? Or by brand?

    I'm 75 and have replaced my tires for decades where my current philosophy is >> that (a) tires are tires, and (if you're replacing all four as a set), then >> you (b) you buy that set by the spec and finally, (c), if the specs are
    almost or exactly the same, then you decide by price (lower is better).

    Hence I sort tires online by spec first, not by price nor by brand.
    1. It has to fit (for example, P225/75R15 if buying for all four wheels)
    2. It has to be right (for example, All-Season, load range 102S or better) >> 3. It has to be good (for example, TRACTION=AA TREADWEAR=500 TEMPERATURE=A) >>
    I know people who buy by warranty, which means that what they care about
    isn't the price performance qualities of the tire itself since warranty is >> an artificial marketing component of the tire sale.

    Others will tell you that they buy the most well advertised brand (for
    example, Michelin or GoodYear) but they usually don't even know WHERE their >> tires are built (Indonesia for example) before that brand is stamped on the >> tires (the point being that multiple brands are the same exact tire in many >> cases).

    And yet, others buy by price, but from highest to lowest, and they're often >> the same people claiming that "you get what you pay for" which is never
    correct (you get what others set the price at which is almost always a
    function of brand marketing and almost never of quality in tires).

    In the end, the price is a function of the basics:
    A. The cost of the tire (for example, $100/tire)
    B. The cost of sales tax (for example 10%)
    C. The cost of shipping (for example $15/tire)
    D. The cost of mounting/balancing/valves/disposal (for example $20/wheel)

    While any online tire seller (Tire Rack, Simple Tire, Carid, etc.) will ship >> directly to the tire mounting shop, I mount/balance my own so I save on a
    few things (e.g., SimpleTire doesn't charge for shipping and dynamic balance >> DIY tests are free, or if you don't trust your own dynamic balance tests, I >> think Costco will check the dynamic balance for $5/tire last I asked and
    they will dispose of old tires for $1/tire plus local sales tax).

    Anyway, I was just shopping for tires and wondered why the default sort
    order is what it is, given the default should be lowest-to-highest within
    spec, in my humble opinion.

    What's your humble opinion?
    How do YOU choose a set of new tires when you order them online?

    (Maybe I can learn something from your experience and acumen.)

    For the first tire replacement on a purchased-new vehicle, I usually
    install the same ones that the manufacturer supplied. Of course that
    assumes I liked how they handled and gave reasonable tread life.

    That makes sense. I look at Tirerack reviews for a reviewer driving the same car
    who talks about ride, handling and tread life and sounds like he knows what he's talking
    about. That only happened once, and it worked out fine.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From fos@21:1/5 to Andy Burnelli on Fri Dec 10 15:48:19 2021
    On 2021-12-09, Andy Burnelli <spam@nospam.com> wrote:

    How do YOU choose a set of new tires when you order them online?

    i don't.

    support your local community by not buying them online. i've been using
    Cooper tires purchased from the same locally owned family business for
    the last 30 years. that kind of loyalty, when you walk into a business
    and they treat you like part of the family, really pays off well when
    you need something in a pinch.

    what happens when you purchase tires online and find out one is
    defective after the tires are mounted and driven on? defects happen,
    nothing is perfect. yeah, good luck getting that straightened out.

    --
    fos@sdf.org
    SDF Public Access UNIX System - https://sdf.org

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Ken Olson@21:1/5 to fos on Fri Dec 10 16:47:38 2021
    On 12/10/2021 10:48 AM, fos wrote:
    On 2021-12-09, Andy Burnelli <spam@nospam.com> wrote:

    How do YOU choose a set of new tires when you order them online?

    i don't.

    support your local community by not buying them online. i've been using Cooper tires purchased from the same locally owned family business for
    the last 30 years. that kind of loyalty, when you walk into a business
    and they treat you like part of the family, really pays off well when
    you need something in a pinch.

    what happens when you purchase tires online and find out one is
    defective after the tires are mounted and driven on? defects happen,
    nothing is perfect. yeah, good luck getting that straightened out.


    The local shop where I buy is usually within $5 per tire of online
    source prices.

    --
    ÄLSKAR - Fänga Dagen

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Michael Trew@21:1/5 to Andy Burnelli on Fri Dec 10 21:02:35 2021
    On 12/9/2021 16:32, Andy Burnelli wrote:
    I'm buying tires at SimpleTire and the default sort is "recommended" but other options are "highest to lowest" and "lowest to highest" choices.

    It got me wondering...
    Who sorts a set of 4 tires by price high to low? Or by brand?

    I'm 75 and have replaced my tires for decades where my current philosophy is that (a) tires are tires, and (if you're replacing all four as a set), then you (b) you buy that set by the spec and finally, (c), if the specs are almost or exactly the same, then you decide by price (lower is better).

    Depends on the car. I own a lot of cars. If a decent vehicle, I'll try
    to not buy the cheapest brand. Most Walmart tires are not recommended.
    I'd prefer to go to a local shop to get tires and keep the money in my
    local economy.

    If it's a cheap beater (or a truck with big/expensive tires), I buy used
    tires on steep discount. My Geo Metro has a rare size 12" rim, and
    those tires are very hard to find. I think I found them on eBay a
    couple of years ago, and I took the only brand that I found, because you
    take what you can get at that point.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Wade Garrett@21:1/5 to Michael Trew on Sat Dec 11 07:37:34 2021
    On 12/10/21 9:02 PM, Michael Trew wrote:
    On 12/9/2021 16:32, Andy Burnelli wrote:
    I).

    Depends on the car.  I own a lot of cars.  If a decent vehicle, I'll try
    to not buy the cheapest brand.  Most Walmart tires are not recommended.
     I'd prefer to go to a local shop to get tires and keep the money in my local economy.


    What's the problem with Walmart tires?

    They sell many of the same brands other tire retailers do-- and since
    they order them six or seven bazillion at a time, the tire manufacturers
    give them a good price- which is why they can give you the same.

    ...And don't tell me that Michelin and Goodyear, etc., send Wally their
    rejects and Walmart-only special models poorly made with cheap materials...

    --
    Karl Marx is a well-known historical figure...but no one ever mentions
    his sister Onya who invented the Starter’s Pistol

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Michael Trew@21:1/5 to Wade Garrett on Sun Dec 12 00:03:37 2021
    On 12/11/2021 7:37, Wade Garrett wrote:
    On 12/10/21 9:02 PM, Michael Trew wrote:
    On 12/9/2021 16:32, Andy Burnelli wrote:
    I).

    Depends on the car. I own a lot of cars. If a decent vehicle, I'll
    try to not buy the cheapest brand. Most Walmart tires are not
    recommended. I'd prefer to go to a local shop to get tires and keep
    the money in my local economy.


    What's the problem with Walmart tires?

    They sell many of the same brands other tire retailers do-- and since
    they order them six or seven bazillion at a time, the tire manufacturers
    give them a good price- which is why they can give you the same.

    Don't people only go to Walmart for cheap stuff? I've never bought
    their tires, but I've owned a couple cars where people bought Walmart
    tires. They are usually not very good. I guess that depends on the brand.

    ...And don't tell me that Michelin and Goodyear, etc., send Wally their rejects and Walmart-only special models poorly made with cheap materials...

    That isn't what I was going to say, but you bring up an excellent point.
    Walmart cuts deals with name-brand manufacturers to get their products cheaper. This is well known.

    There was a documentary made about Snapper mowers that stood up to
    Walmart, and said they wouldn't sell a cheaper version of their mower to
    make a ton of money retailing them at Walmart stores.

    Unfortunately, someone later bought the Snapper brand, and they
    immediately caved into corporate pressure. You now find cheap Snapper
    mowers at Walmart, that are not quality -- they only retain the old name.

    --------------------

    From an example article online:

    "*Walmart is well known for demanding lower prices from manufacturers
    each year. In order to meet low prices, manufacturers can use lower
    quality components, use marginally failing devices, or remove some
    features. In many cases, the SKUs at different stores are different."

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Dan Purgert@21:1/5 to Vic Smith on Sun Dec 12 06:01:51 2021
    Vic Smith wrote:
    I look at Tirerack reviews for a reviewer driving the same car

    As you noticed, it's rare to have the same car, the same weather conditions, the same driving style, the same driving use, etc., such that the boy racer reviews are almost always worthless to me (rarely are they even applicable).

    All you really have to compare is what's molded on the tire sidewall.
    Take these three tires.

    Tire Rack: $101.00 Kumho Solus TA11 Standard Touring All-Season
    P225/75R15 102T UTQG 700AB

    Simple Tire: $88.28 Eldorado Custom 428 A/S
    P225/75R15 102S UTQG 440AB

    Carid & TireEasy: $87.98 Nexen PRIZ AH5
    P225/75R15 102S UTQG 460AA

    All have the same load range (102 is 1874 pounds/tire) and all have the same traction (A) rating.

    The main difference appears to be in the temperature (aka speed).

    The temperature rating of the Nexen is slightly better (both are rated S but one tested at an A temperature while Eldorado is a lower temp at B) and yet
    the speed rating of the Kumho is T even as the temperature (aka speed) is
    rated at only a B. Such are the vagaries when the government specifies the
    test versus when the tire manufacturer specifies the test, given they're
    both a "speed" test (what kills tires, at speed, is flexing heat buildup).

    That's all you have that is of any value in choosing between tires.
    Everything else is just a guess (and even that is a guess in some ways).

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Wade Garrett@21:1/5 to Michael Trew on Sun Dec 12 09:35:17 2021
    On 12/12/21 12:03 AM, Michael Trew wrote:
    On 12/11/2021 7:37, Wade Garrett wrote:
    On 12/10/21 9:02 PM, Michael Trew wrote:
    On 12/9/2021 16:32, Andy Burnelli wrote:
    I).

    Depends on the car.  I own a lot of cars.  If a decent vehicle, I'll
    try to not buy the cheapest brand.  Most Walmart tires are not
    recommended.  I'd prefer to go to a local shop to get tires and keep
    the money in my local economy.


    What's the problem with Walmart tires?

    They sell many of the same brands other tire retailers do-- and since
    they order them six or seven bazillion at a time, the tire manufacturers
    give them a good price- which is why they can give you the same.

    Don't people only go to Walmart for cheap stuff?  I've never bought
    their tires, but I've owned a couple cars where people bought Walmart tires.  They are usually not very good.  I guess that depends on the brand.

    ...And don't tell me that Michelin and Goodyear, etc., send Wally their
    rejects and Walmart-only special models poorly made with cheap
    materials...

    That isn't what I was going to say, but you bring up an excellent point.
     Walmart cuts deals with name-brand manufacturers to get their products cheaper.  This is well known.

    There was a documentary made about Snapper mowers that stood up to
    Walmart, and said they wouldn't sell a cheaper version of their mower to
    make a ton of money retailing them at Walmart stores.

    Unfortunately, someone later bought the Snapper brand, and they
    immediately caved into corporate pressure.  You now find cheap Snapper mowers at Walmart, that are not quality -- they only retain the old name.

    --------------------

    From an example article online:

    "*Walmart is well known for demanding lower prices from manufacturers
    each year. In order to meet low prices, manufacturers can use lower
    quality components, use marginally failing devices, or remove some
    features. In many cases, the SKUs at different stores are different."

    Yeah, some owners aren't concerned about the image slide that occurs
    from selling a cheap version of their brand. I'd think it would mostly
    be done by investment/financial firms that buy a brand, milk it dry,
    then flip it- not caring about the damage done to a household name
    that's been around for 50-100 years.

    What you said about Walmart squeezing vendors (as many other companies
    do as well) is true. I used to regularly visit a client in Rogers,
    Arkansas- flying into Fayetteville, AR which is just down the road from Bentonville.

    Half the guys on the plane were salesmen and account managers heading to Walmart headquarters. Seatmate conversation frequently centered around
    how they were getting beaten up and price-squeezed and thinking about
    whether it was time to pull the plug.

    --
    Why is it that the politicians who want more government control over
    your life are the same ones who want you to be disarmed?

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Michael Trew@21:1/5 to Wade Garrett on Sun Dec 12 21:33:18 2021
    On 12/12/2021 9:35, Wade Garrett wrote:
    On 12/12/21 12:03 AM, Michael Trew wrote:
    Walmart cuts deals with name-brand manufacturers to get their
    products cheaper. This is well known.

    There was a documentary made about Snapper mowers that stood up to
    Walmart, and said they wouldn't sell a cheaper version of their mower
    to make a ton of money retailing them at Walmart stores.

    Unfortunately, someone later bought the Snapper brand, and they
    immediately caved into corporate pressure. You now find cheap Snapper
    mowers at Walmart, that are not quality -- they only retain the old name.

    --------------------

    From an example article online:

    "*Walmart is well known for demanding lower prices from manufacturers
    each year. In order to meet low prices, manufacturers can use lower
    quality components, use marginally failing devices, or remove some
    features. In many cases, the SKUs at different stores are different."

    Yeah, some owners aren't concerned about the image slide that occurs
    from selling a cheap version of their brand. I'd think it would mostly
    be done by investment/financial firms that buy a brand, milk it dry,
    then flip it- not caring about the damage done to a household name
    that's been around for 50-100 years.

    I'm a sentimental person to boot, and it's quite unfortunate, but what
    can you do? There aren't many brands that I buy for the name anymore.
    I regularly buy old appliances and tools that were built to last second
    hand. I no longer shop at Walmart either.

    What you said about Walmart squeezing vendors (as many other companies
    do as well) is true. I used to regularly visit a client in Rogers,
    Arkansas- flying into Fayetteville, AR which is just down the road from Bentonville.

    Half the guys on the plane were salesmen and account managers heading to Walmart headquarters. Seatmate conversation frequently centered around
    how they were getting beaten up and price-squeezed and thinking about
    whether it was time to pull the plug.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Dan Purgert@21:1/5 to Michael Trew on Mon Dec 13 06:57:59 2021
    Michael Trew wrote:
    I'm a sentimental person to boot, and it's quite unfortunate, but what
    can you do? There aren't many brands that I buy for the name anymore.
    I regularly buy old appliances and tools that were built to last second
    hand. I no longer shop at Walmart either.

    IMHO, they all sell about the same brand and make and model of tires.
    1. Simple Tire 888-410-0604 https://simpletire.com
    2. Carid 800-505-3274 https://www.carid.com
    3. Tire Easy 855-978-6789 https://www.tires-easy.com
    4. Tire Rack 888-541-1777 https://www.tirerack.com
    5. Walmart https://www.walmart.com/cp/tires-accessories/1077064
    6. Costco Tire Center https://tires.costco.com/

    It seems basic tires are priced as a commodity at about the same price each.
    $ 74.94 Nexen N Priz AH5 P225/75R15 102S WSW UTQG 460AA (walmart)
    $ 87.98 Nexen N Priz AH5 P225/75R15 102S WSW UTQG 460AA (tires-easy)
    $ 88.28 Eldorado Custom 428 A/S P225/75R15 102S BSW UTQG 440AB (simple)
    $ 94.65 Hankook Kinergy ST H735 P225/75R15 102T BSW UTQG 680AA (tireseasy)
    $ 97.99 Hankook Kinergy ST H735 P225/75R15 102T BSW UTQG 680AA (simple)
    $ 97.00 Kumho Solus TA11 P225/75R15 102T BSW UTQG 700AB (tirerack)
    $ 97.00 Kumho Solus TA11 P225/75R15 102T BSW UTQG 700AB (amazon)
    $101.57 TOYO EXTENSA A/S II P225/75R15 102T BSW UTQG 620AB (carid)
    $101.57 TOYO EXTENSA A/S II P225/75R15 102T BSW UTQG 620AB (tiresEasy)
    $101.57 TOYO EXTENSA A/S II P225/75R15 102T BSW UTQG 620AB (walmart)

    Probably racing or specialty tires have different pricing though.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From fos@21:1/5 to Michael Trew on Mon Dec 13 14:02:20 2021
    On 2021-12-12, Michael Trew <michael.trew@att.net> wrote:

    There was a documentary made about Snapper mowers that stood up to
    Walmart, and said they wouldn't sell a cheaper version of their mower to
    make a ton of money retailing them at Walmart stores.

    Unfortunately, someone later bought the Snapper brand, and they
    immediately caved into corporate pressure. You now find cheap Snapper
    mowers at Walmart, that are not quality -- they only retain the old name.

    Snapper was bought by Simplicity and Briggs and Stratton bought
    Simplicity not long after that. I'm pretty sure it was Briggs and Stratton
    that caved and put Snapper mowers on Walmart shelves.

    i refuse to even purchase power equipment at big box stores such as Home
    Depot and Lowes. That equipment suffers from the same thing as equipment
    at Walmart, it's made cheaper.

    riding mowers for example. they're all powered by the same engines,
    Kohler, Briggs, Kawasaki, etc, and all have the same transmissions, Tuff
    Torq, but none are of commercial quality. The sheet metal frames and
    decks are made from is thinner, and the moving hardware is the same.
    When you see Cub Cadet's, Deere's, Husqvarna's, etc at a box store, those
    are cheaply made knock offs compared to the models sold at actual dealers.

    you buy a riding mower at a box store, you're buying a 5-10 year throw
    away machine. a few years ago i purchased a Simplicity riding mower from
    a local farm supply. Briggs and Stratton commercial v-twin engine, heavy
    duty Tuff Torq trans, cast aluminum deck, serviceable spindles with
    grease fittings, steering components have grease fitting, heavy gage sheet metal, minimal plastic. with proper maintenance i'll easily get 30 years
    out of it. on the other hand, my next door neighbor buys box store riding mowers and is on his third one in 25 years. his mowers are priced half of
    what i paid sure, but i'm further ahead by buying a quality product that
    will last 3 times or more as long up front.

    back to tires, or anything auto related, at walmart. the tire shop i use
    and the collision shop down the street from them both say they see vehicles with loose wheels or damaged vehicles from improperly tightened lug nuts on vehicles serviced by walmart several times a year. i can't vouch for
    whether walmart has lower gradetires as i've never compared specs, but if i
    did ever buy tires from there, i sure as hell would not have them
    mounted and balanced there based on their crappy reputation alone. if
    you ever do, check the lug nuts for proper torque.

    --
    fos@sdf.org
    SDF Public Access UNIX System - https://sdf.org

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From fos@21:1/5 to Ken Olson on Mon Dec 13 14:25:12 2021
    On 2021-12-10, Ken Olson <kolson@freedomnet.org> wrote:
    On 12/10/2021 10:48 AM, fos wrote:
    On 2021-12-09, Andy Burnelli <spam@nospam.com> wrote:

    How do YOU choose a set of new tires when you order them online?

    i don't.

    support your local community by not buying them online. i've been using
    Cooper tires purchased from the same locally owned family business for
    the last 30 years. that kind of loyalty, when you walk into a business
    and they treat you like part of the family, really pays off well when
    you need something in a pinch.

    what happens when you purchase tires online and find out one is
    defective after the tires are mounted and driven on? defects happen,
    nothing is perfect. yeah, good luck getting that straightened out.

    The local shop where I buy is usually within $5 per tire of online
    source prices.

    that's about what i came up with the one and only time i compared
    prices.

    --
    fos@sdf.org
    SDF Public Access UNIX System - https://sdf.org

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Michael Trew@21:1/5 to fos on Mon Dec 13 14:30:57 2021
    On 12/13/2021 9:02, fos wrote:
    On 2021-12-12, Michael Trew<michael.trew@att.net> wrote:

    There was a documentary made about Snapper mowers that stood up to
    Walmart, and said they wouldn't sell a cheaper version of their mower to
    make a ton of money retailing them at Walmart stores.

    Unfortunately, someone later bought the Snapper brand, and they
    immediately caved into corporate pressure. You now find cheap Snapper
    mowers at Walmart, that are not quality -- they only retain the old name.

    Snapper was bought by Simplicity and Briggs and Stratton bought
    Simplicity not long after that. I'm pretty sure it was Briggs and Stratton that caved and put Snapper mowers on Walmart shelves.

    i refuse to even purchase power equipment at big box stores such as Home Depot and Lowes. That equipment suffers from the same thing as equipment
    at Walmart, it's made cheaper.

    riding mowers for example.

    Agreed, my father has been through a few cheap big box riding mowers in
    past years. I have a 1975 Wheelhouse that keeps chugging along.

    back to tires, or anything auto related, at walmart. the tire shop i use
    and the collision shop down the street from them both say they see vehicles with loose wheels or damaged vehicles from improperly tightened lug nuts on vehicles serviced by walmart several times a year. i can't vouch for
    whether walmart has lower gradetires as i've never compared specs, but if i did ever buy tires from there, i sure as hell would not have them
    mounted and balanced there based on their crappy reputation alone. if
    you ever do, check the lug nuts for proper torque.

    I tried to take an '83 F150 to Walmart to have a new valve stem put on.
    Truck has a 3 on the tree. Not one of the guys working there knew how
    to drive it up on the rack. They asked me to do it. Whatever, I'd
    prefer that over them breaking the linkage or whatever.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From fos@21:1/5 to Michael Trew on Wed Dec 15 13:14:51 2021
    On 2021-12-13, Michael Trew <michael.trew@att.net> wrote:
    On 12/13/2021 9:02, fos wrote:

    i refuse to even purchase power equipment at big box stores such as Home
    Depot and Lowes. That equipment suffers from the same thing as equipment
    at Walmart, it's made cheaper.

    riding mowers for example.

    Agreed, my father has been through a few cheap big box riding mowers in
    past years. I have a 1975 Wheelhouse that keeps chugging along.

    i have a 1985 Ford snow blower. and just picked up a late 70's Sears
    chipper shredder off craigslist that needed a carb rebuild and now runs
    great. both still have many years left in them.

    I tried to take an '83 F150 to Walmart to have a new valve stem put on.
    Truck has a 3 on the tree. Not one of the guys working there knew how
    to drive it up on the rack. They asked me to do it. Whatever, I'd
    prefer that over them breaking the linkage or whatever.

    the only way i'd ever have service done at a Walmart would be if i was
    on the road far from home, and on a sunday when in many places it'd be
    the only place open for business.

    i do buy my motor oil, and dispose of the used oil there. last time i
    took my 5 gallon container, which i want back, of used oil there it took
    three techs to dump it in the storage tank. i wonder if it takes those
    three guys to change a tire? on second thought, i don't want to know.
    no. just no. run away. fast. lol.

    --
    fos@sdf.org
    SDF Public Access UNIX System - https://sdf.org

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Michael Trew@21:1/5 to fos on Wed Dec 15 12:07:49 2021
    On 12/15/2021 8:14, fos wrote:
    On 2021-12-13, Michael Trew<michael.trew@att.net> wrote:
    On 12/13/2021 9:02, fos wrote:

    i refuse to even purchase power equipment at big box stores such as Home >>> Depot and Lowes. That equipment suffers from the same thing as equipment >>> at Walmart, it's made cheaper.

    riding mowers for example.

    Agreed, my father has been through a few cheap big box riding mowers in
    past years. I have a 1975 Wheelhouse that keeps chugging along.

    i have a 1985 Ford snow blower. and just picked up a late 70's Sears
    chipper shredder off craigslist that needed a carb rebuild and now runs great. both still have many years left in them.

    Yes, the old stuff just goes on and on. I have a 70's JcPenney brand (Penncraft?) 1100 watt generator that I paid $40 for from Craigslist,
    and it works well to keep the fridge, DSL modem, and a light on if the
    power goes out.

    I picked up a Gilson late 60's front tine tiller from the original owner
    (with original manual) last spring for a similar price to turn over a
    small plot of soil. I had to pick the soil first, but that's a really
    nice little machine.

    I tried to take an '83 F150 to Walmart to have a new valve stem put on.
    Truck has a 3 on the tree. Not one of the guys working there knew how
    to drive it up on the rack. They asked me to do it. Whatever, I'd
    prefer that over them breaking the linkage or whatever.

    the only way i'd ever have service done at a Walmart would be if i was
    on the road far from home, and on a sunday when in many places it'd be
    the only place open for business.

    Haha, it *was* on a Sunday... I'm certain that influenced my decision at
    the time (the tire held air for maybe 30 minutes as the valve stem was).

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From fos@21:1/5 to Michael Trew on Sun Dec 19 03:23:32 2021
    On 2021-12-15, Michael Trew <michael.trew@att.net> wrote:
    On 12/15/2021 8:14, fos wrote:

    i have a 1985 Ford snow blower. and just picked up a late 70's Sears
    chipper shredder off craigslist that needed a carb rebuild and now runs
    great. both still have many years left in them.

    Yes, the old stuff just goes on and on. I have a 70's JcPenney brand (Penncraft?) 1100 watt generator that I paid $40 for from Craigslist,
    and it works well to keep the fridge, DSL modem, and a light on if the
    power goes out.

    I picked up a Gilson late 60's front tine tiller from the original owner (with original manual) last spring for a similar price to turn over a
    small plot of soil. I had to pick the soil first, but that's a really
    nice little machine.

    Ha. We can do this all week it seems. I forgot the 1980 Ariens front
    tine tiller I picked up a couple years ago from a retired guy who bought
    it new. Came with the manuals and original sales receipt. I've worked
    the hell out it tearing up several hundred square feet of sod and dug
    down at least a foot, in rocky soil, for garden beds and it doesn't skip
    a beat. Local power equipment dealer told me Ariens is great at keeping
    track of parts for old equipment like that and getting any common wear components for it are available.

    Everything else is much newer. Generator, Briggs, bought new in 2006.
    Rarely use it but don't want to be without it. Change the oil, and drain
    & replace the fuel annually, and it always starts on the first or second
    pull. Push mower, Exmark commercial mower, Kawasaki engine, 2010. Weed
    eater, sidewalk edger, leaf blower, and chainsaw, Stihl, all the lower
    end models of the pro series, not the homeowner series, 1 per year for
    the last 4 years.

    When I'm done with it all in 10 or so years after I retire to a hut on a
    beach somewhere in the Caribbean, I'll give it to my son who will easily
    get several more decades out of it.

    People, don't piss away good money on department or big box store power equipment. That deal you think you're getting is 5 year recycle bin scrap,
    if even that long. Invest in quality products from knowledgeable and
    reputable dealers, maintain them well, and they'll last you nearly a
    lifetime.

    --
    fos@sdf.org
    SDF Public Access UNIX System - https://sdf.org

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From The Real Bev@21:1/5 to fos on Sat Dec 18 20:00:44 2021
    On 12/18/2021 07:23 PM, fos wrote:

    People, don't piss away good money on department or big box store power equipment. That deal you think you're getting is 5 year recycle bin scrap,
    if even that long. Invest in quality products from knowledgeable and reputable dealers, maintain them well, and they'll last you nearly a lifetime.

    Haunt the estate sales. I bought a new Craftsman 10mm socket maybe 10
    years ago and I peeled some of the chrome off with my thumbnail.

    --
    Cheers, Bev
    "Don't sweat it -- it's not real life. It's only ones and zeroes."
    -- spaf (1988?)

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From fos@21:1/5 to The Real Bev on Sun Dec 19 04:42:32 2021
    On 2021-12-19, The Real Bev <bashley101@gmail.com> wrote:
    On 12/18/2021 07:23 PM, fos wrote:

    People, don't piss away good money on department or big box store power
    equipment. That deal you think you're getting is 5 year recycle bin scrap, >> if even that long. Invest in quality products from knowledgeable and
    reputable dealers, maintain them well, and they'll last you nearly a
    lifetime.

    Haunt the estate sales. I bought a new Craftsman 10mm socket maybe 10
    years ago and I peeled some of the chrome off with my thumbnail.

    Bought my first Craftsman tool set when I was but a wee young lad in the
    late 70's. The ratchets that came with that set were indestructible. I
    still have the severely abused 3/8 drive ratchet that came with that set
    and it has never been rebuilt.

    The 1/2 drive ratchet I left setting in an engine compartment in the
    late 80's and I'm sure it's still decomposing into iron oxide on the side
    of a frequently traveled road. That motherfucker was much more severely
    abused than the 3/8 ratchet. I have a 30 inch piece of pipe leverage
    extender I used on that 1/2 inch Craftsman ratchet to break either nuts
    and bolts loose or failing that, break sockets, including impact sockets.
    I was a broke ass bitch back then, had to make do with what I could get
    my hands on. I've stood and bounced on that ratchet with the 24 inch lever extender attached and it never winced. I really miss that ratchet. I've
    broken 3 1/2 inch Craftsman breaker bars with the same leverage extender
    since.

    --
    fos@sdf.org
    SDF Public Access UNIX System - https://sdf.org

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Michael Trew@21:1/5 to fos on Sat Dec 18 23:17:40 2021
    On 12/18/2021 22:23, fos wrote:
    On 2021-12-15, Michael Trew<michael.trew@att.net> wrote:
    On 12/15/2021 8:14, fos wrote:

    i have a 1985 Ford snow blower. and just picked up a late 70's Sears
    chipper shredder off craigslist that needed a carb rebuild and now runs
    great. both still have many years left in them.

    Yes, the old stuff just goes on and on. I have a 70's JcPenney brand
    (Penncraft?) 1100 watt generator that I paid $40 for from Craigslist,
    and it works well to keep the fridge, DSL modem, and a light on if the
    power goes out.

    I picked up a Gilson late 60's front tine tiller from the original owner
    (with original manual) last spring for a similar price to turn over a
    small plot of soil. I had to pick the soil first, but that's a really
    nice little machine.

    Ha. We can do this all week it seems. I forgot the 1980 Ariens front
    tine tiller I picked up a couple years ago from a retired guy who bought
    it new. Came with the manuals and original sales receipt. I've worked
    the hell out it tearing up several hundred square feet of sod and dug
    down at least a foot, in rocky soil, for garden beds and it doesn't skip
    a beat. Local power equipment dealer told me Ariens is great at keeping
    track of parts for old equipment like that and getting any common wear components for it are available.

    I was surprised that the owner of my tiller made some custom tines that replaced a few of the original ones. It's belt driven, but doesn't seem
    to have issue.

    Everything else is much newer. Generator, Briggs, bought new in 2006.
    Rarely use it but don't want to be without it. Change the oil, and drain
    & replace the fuel annually, and it always starts on the first or second pull. Push mower, Exmark commercial mower, Kawasaki engine, 2010. Weed
    eater, sidewalk edger, leaf blower, and chainsaw, Stihl, all the lower
    end models of the pro series, not the homeowner series, 1 per year for
    the last 4 years.

    I'm fortunate that my old Generator sat for 1.5 years and fired RIGHT up
    when I filled the fuel. The prior owner installed a shut-off valve to
    the carburetor. Turn the shut-off valve, and wait for the bowl to run
    out of fuel. I very rarely use it, but I'm sure it's time for an oil
    change.

    People, don't piss away good money on department or big box store power equipment.

    I agree, buy the right tools to last. That being said, in a pinch, I
    bought a $69 weed eater at Home Depot 4 years ago (I think I forgot my
    check book, and only had cash to buy that one). I can't believe that
    cheap unit is running strong all of this time later. Keep in mind I
    only mow a couple of small city residential lots, nothing high demand.
    I think ethanol free fuel keeps this weed eater running well.

    I can't recall the brand of the old 70's/80's 22" push mower that I
    picked up for $50, but the guy said it was his father's, and he had put
    a brand new briggs/stratton engine on it a year prior. Nice higher
    horse engine. He moved to a big lot and decided he no longer needed the
    mower. It was unusual in the fact that it has a VERY heavy duty
    aluminum deck. It'll never rust out! I bet I'll have this thing for a
    life time.

    SIDE NOTE: I do NOT put ethanol fuel into ANY of these small engines.
    Not even into my cheap spare power mower that gets used for a rocky part
    of the lawn and thrown into the truck to be taken elsewhere. I drive an
    hour away to buy at least 5 gallons of ethanol free 90 octane fuel twice
    per season for all of the small engines.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From The Real Bev@21:1/5 to fos on Sat Dec 18 22:06:37 2021
    On 12/18/2021 08:42 PM, fos wrote:
    On 2021-12-19, The Real Bev <bashley101@gmail.com> wrote:
    On 12/18/2021 07:23 PM, fos wrote:

    People, don't piss away good money on department or big box store power
    equipment. That deal you think you're getting is 5 year recycle bin scrap, >>> if even that long. Invest in quality products from knowledgeable and
    reputable dealers, maintain them well, and they'll last you nearly a
    lifetime.

    Haunt the estate sales. I bought a new Craftsman 10mm socket maybe 10
    years ago and I peeled some of the chrome off with my thumbnail.

    Bought my first Craftsman tool set when I was but a wee young lad in the
    late 70's. The ratchets that came with that set were indestructible. I
    still have the severely abused 3/8 drive ratchet that came with that set
    and it has never been rebuilt.

    The 1/2 drive ratchet I left setting in an engine compartment in the
    late 80's and I'm sure it's still decomposing into iron oxide on the side
    of a frequently traveled road. That motherfucker was much more severely abused than the 3/8 ratchet. I have a 30 inch piece of pipe leverage
    extender I used on that 1/2 inch Craftsman ratchet to break either nuts
    and bolts loose or failing that, break sockets, including impact sockets.

    When we had new tires put on our monsterhome the shop REALLY tightened
    the lugnuts. We bent the good lug wrench (one of us pulling up, the
    other pushing down with pipe cheaters) until we were afraid it would
    break. Had to drive back to the shop to have them re-set to something
    WE could deal with on the road. Fortunately, we never had to change a flat.

    I was a broke ass bitch back then, had to make do with what I could get
    my hands on. I've stood and bounced on that ratchet with the 24 inch lever extender attached and it never winced. I really miss that ratchet. I've broken 3 1/2 inch Craftsman breaker bars with the same leverage extender since.

    In contrast, I broke a Harbor Freight open-end wrench loosening an
    oilpan drain bolt.

    The problem with us old farts is that we have no one to leave our GOOD
    tools to. My friend has his dad's tools -- the huge ones he used on earthmoving equipment back when we were still building freeways. Same
    problem.

    --
    Cheers, Bev
    "To liberals, building a wall across the Mexican border is a
    violation of the Voting Rights Act." -- Ann Coulter

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From fos@21:1/5 to Michael Trew on Mon Dec 20 17:15:19 2021
    On 2021-12-19, Michael Trew <michael.trew@att.net> wrote:

    SIDE NOTE: I do NOT put ethanol fuel into ANY of these small engines.
    Not even into my cheap spare power mower that gets used for a rocky part
    of the lawn and thrown into the truck to be taken elsewhere. I drive an
    hour away to buy at least 5 gallons of ethanol free 90 octane fuel twice
    per season for all of the small engines.

    this! never put anything but ethanol free fuel in gas cans for power
    equipment. and maintenance is key. 4-6 months a year my power equipment hibernates for winter. the two strokes get their covers removed and
    cleaned up, air cleaners cleaned or replaced, fuel tanks drained, then
    run out of fuel. have always done that, and that's actually the procedure printed in the manuals for the Stihl equipment i've recently purchased
    new so i guess i've been doing it right all these years. 4 strokes. near
    the end of the season i keep the fuel in the tanks low. the machines get cleaned, lubed, air cleaners cleaned or replaced, up, blades sharpened,
    engine oil changed, tanks drained if tool is handheld (mantis cultivator
    for example), petcocks in fuel lines (installed by me if came without)
    shut off and engines run until they stall to empty carburetors. generator
    gets the same treatment at the same annually whether it gets used or not.

    any fuel that's left in the cans get dumped into the older car. in the
    spring, the cans are filled with ethanol free fuel, Stabil added, and
    the first couple tanks of fuel in each piece of equipment in the spring
    gets a fuel system cleaner such as Seafoam for Gumout added at a rate
    of 1oz per gallon. also, is as a rule of thumb i add a can of Seafoam or
    Gumout to a full tank of fuel with every oil change on the motor vehicles.

    happy engines are reliable, easy starting engines that last a long time.

    --
    fos@sdf.org
    SDF Public Access UNIX System - https://sdf.org

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Scott Dorsey@21:1/5 to spam@nospam.com on Mon Dec 20 23:34:04 2021
    Andy Burnelli <spam@nospam.com> wrote:

    It got me wondering...
    Who sorts a set of 4 tires by price high to low? Or by brand?

    My father would sort by price. He would always buy the cheapest possible tires. It's a wonder he wasn't killed on the highway as a result, too.

    I will sort by brand, because in general once I find a tire I like, I will stick with that particular model of tire, or the successor to that model,
    as long as possible.

    I'm 75 and have replaced my tires for decades where my current philosophy is >that (a) tires are tires, and (if you're replacing all four as a set), then >you (b) you buy that set by the spec and finally, (c), if the specs are >almost or exactly the same, then you decide by price (lower is better).

    Tires are not tires. Find a set you like, then keep buying them. Someday
    they will be discontinued and then you will have an adventure. Put that off
    as long as possible.

    Specs are nice, but two tires with the same numbers on the website may feel totally different on your car.
    --scott

    --
    "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From The Real Bev@21:1/5 to Scott Dorsey on Mon Dec 20 20:49:21 2021
    On 12/20/2021 03:34 PM, Scott Dorsey wrote:
    Andy Burnelli <spam@nospam.com> wrote:

    It got me wondering...
    Who sorts a set of 4 tires by price high to low? Or by brand?

    My father would sort by price. He would always buy the cheapest possible tires. It's a wonder he wasn't killed on the highway as a result, too.

    A man after my own heart. That's what we buy, although the stock tires
    on my Corolla have convinced me that softer tires are WAY more fun to
    drive down mountain roads. Not as much fun as the fancy tires on my
    friend's S2000, though!

    I will sort by brand, because in general once I find a tire I like, I will stick with that particular model of tire, or the successor to that model,
    as long as possible.

    I'm 75 and have replaced my tires for decades where my current philosophy is >>that (a) tires are tires, and (if you're replacing all four as a set), then >>you (b) you buy that set by the spec and finally, (c), if the specs are >>almost or exactly the same, then you decide by price (lower is better).

    Tires are not tires. Find a set you like, then keep buying them. Someday they will be discontinued and then you will have an adventure. Put that off as long as possible.

    Especially if you buy from the Cadillac dealer. The bastard sold my mom
    a set of obsolete/discontinued Bridgestones for a premium price and then refused to replace them when the bubbles formed, sending us to the
    Bridgestone dealer -- who replaced them at no charge, which is what the
    damn dealer should have done. Bastard went belly-up a few years later :-)

    Never had that trouble with any of the cheap tires I ever bought at Pep
    Boys or America's/Discount Tire.

    Specs are nice, but two tires with the same numbers on the website may feel totally different on your car.

    And a good alignment can make a world of difference too.


    --
    Cheers, Bev
    If I gave a shit, you'd be the first one I'd give it to.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Michael Trew@21:1/5 to The Real Bev on Wed Dec 22 13:24:16 2021
    On 12/20/2021 23:49, The Real Bev wrote:
    On 12/20/2021 03:34 PM, Scott Dorsey wrote:

    Tires are not tires. Find a set you like, then keep buying them. Someday
    they will be discontinued and then you will have an adventure. Put
    that off
    as long as possible.

    Especially if you buy from the Cadillac dealer. The bastard sold my mom
    a set of obsolete/discontinued Bridgestones for a premium price and then refused to replace them when the bubbles formed, sending us to the Bridgestone dealer -- who replaced them at no charge, which is what the
    damn dealer should have done. Bastard went belly-up a few years later :-)

    Never had that trouble with any of the cheap tires I ever bought at Pep
    Boys or America's/Discount Tire.

    Specs are nice, but two tires with the same numbers on the website may
    feel
    totally different on your car.

    And a good alignment can make a world of difference too.

    Especially if your car is very out of line. I had a set of very worn
    tires on a car, and I did not align it when I put new tires on. I put
    off the alignment, even though it was pulling. Long story short, I
    trashed the new front tires in short of 10,000 miles, and had to buy two
    new ones then got the alignment (first new tie rod ends).

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From The Real Bev@21:1/5 to Michael Trew on Thu Dec 23 22:28:55 2021
    On 12/22/2021 10:24 AM, Michael Trew wrote:
    On 12/20/2021 23:49, The Real Bev wrote:
    On 12/20/2021 03:34 PM, Scott Dorsey wrote:

    Tires are not tires. Find a set you like, then keep buying them. Someday >>> they will be discontinued and then you will have an adventure. Put
    that off
    as long as possible.

    Especially if you buy from the Cadillac dealer. The bastard sold my mom
    a set of obsolete/discontinued Bridgestones for a premium price and then
    refused to replace them when the bubbles formed, sending us to the
    Bridgestone dealer -- who replaced them at no charge, which is what the
    damn dealer should have done. Bastard went belly-up a few years later :-)

    Never had that trouble with any of the cheap tires I ever bought at Pep
    Boys or America's/Discount Tire.

    Specs are nice, but two tires with the same numbers on the website may
    feel totally different on your car.

    And a good alignment can make a world of difference too.

    Especially if your car is very out of line. I had a set of very worn
    tires on a car, and I did not align it when I put new tires on. I put
    off the alignment, even though it was pulling. Long story short, I
    trashed the new front tires in short of 10,000 miles, and had to buy two
    new ones then got the alignment (first new tie rod ends).

    It's a real bitch finding someone who can do a proper alignment on a
    1970 Dodge pickup. The race people (now out of business) said Sure we
    can do it, but they didn't. I found an old guy in a neighboring town
    who did it by hand while I watched and chatted, and it was like a
    miracle. I could have even used a 4-turn steering wheel instead of the 7-turn-lock-to-lock original!

    --
    Cheers, Bev
    Polish loan sharks: they loan you money and then skip town.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From The Real Bev@21:1/5 to The Real Bev on Fri Dec 24 09:54:51 2021
    On 12/23/2021 10:28 PM, The Real Bev wrote:
    On 12/22/2021 10:24 AM, Michael Trew wrote:
    On 12/20/2021 23:49, The Real Bev wrote:
    On 12/20/2021 03:34 PM, Scott Dorsey wrote:

    Tires are not tires. Find a set you like, then keep buying them. Someday >>>> they will be discontinued and then you will have an adventure. Put
    that off
    as long as possible.

    Especially if you buy from the Cadillac dealer. The bastard sold my mom
    a set of obsolete/discontinued Bridgestones for a premium price and then >>> refused to replace them when the bubbles formed, sending us to the
    Bridgestone dealer -- who replaced them at no charge, which is what the
    damn dealer should have done. Bastard went belly-up a few years later :-) >>>
    Never had that trouble with any of the cheap tires I ever bought at Pep
    Boys or America's/Discount Tire.

    Specs are nice, but two tires with the same numbers on the website may >>>> feel totally different on your car.

    And a good alignment can make a world of difference too.

    Especially if your car is very out of line. I had a set of very worn
    tires on a car, and I did not align it when I put new tires on. I put
    off the alignment, even though it was pulling. Long story short, I
    trashed the new front tires in short of 10,000 miles, and had to buy two
    new ones then got the alignment (first new tie rod ends).

    It's a real bitch finding someone who can do a proper alignment on a
    1970 Dodge pickup. The race people (now out of business) said Sure we
    can do it, but they didn't. I found an old guy in a neighboring town
    who did it by hand while I watched and chatted, and it was like a
    miracle. I could have even used a 4-turn steering wheel instead of the 7-turn-lock-to-lock original!

    My hubby reminds me that it is NOT the wheel itself that determines the
    number of lock-to-lock turns. I counseled him soundly about the head
    and shoulders.

    I knew I was unclear, I was just too lazy to go back and fix it and I
    KNEW that everyone would know what I meant. Carry on.


    --
    Cheers, Bev
    "On the other hand, I live in California so I'd be willing to
    squeeze schoolchildren to death if I thought some oil would
    come out." -- Scott Adams

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Michael Trew@21:1/5 to The Real Bev on Fri Dec 24 22:29:39 2021
    On 12/24/2021 1:28, The Real Bev wrote:
    On 12/22/2021 10:24 AM, Michael Trew wrote:
    On 12/20/2021 23:49, The Real Bev wrote:
    On 12/20/2021 03:34 PM, Scott Dorsey wrote:

    Tires are not tires. Find a set you like, then keep buying them.
    Someday
    they will be discontinued and then you will have an adventure. Put
    that off
    as long as possible.

    Especially if you buy from the Cadillac dealer. The bastard sold my mom
    a set of obsolete/discontinued Bridgestones for a premium price and then >>> refused to replace them when the bubbles formed, sending us to the
    Bridgestone dealer -- who replaced them at no charge, which is what the
    damn dealer should have done. Bastard went belly-up a few years later
    :-)

    Never had that trouble with any of the cheap tires I ever bought at Pep
    Boys or America's/Discount Tire.

    Specs are nice, but two tires with the same numbers on the website may >>>> feel totally different on your car.

    And a good alignment can make a world of difference too.

    Especially if your car is very out of line. I had a set of very worn
    tires on a car, and I did not align it when I put new tires on. I put
    off the alignment, even though it was pulling. Long story short, I
    trashed the new front tires in short of 10,000 miles, and had to buy two
    new ones then got the alignment (first new tie rod ends).

    It's a real bitch finding someone who can do a proper alignment on a
    1970 Dodge pickup. The race people (now out of business) said Sure we
    can do it, but they didn't. I found an old guy in a neighboring town who
    did it by hand while I watched and chatted, and it was like a miracle. I could have even used a 4-turn steering wheel instead of the 7-turn-lock-to-lock original!

    No shop wanted to align my "old" 1983 F-150 either. I finally found one
    that was willing to do it, but only one part of the alignment... either
    toe or camber they could not do, I don't remember which. Oh well, they
    only charged me $20 because of that, and the truck did drive a little
    bit more straight after that. Probably needed new front end parts.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)