In your experience, what percentage of your flat tires have to have the
tire replaced versus just having the flat repaired?
I realize everything is up to chance, but in the last couple of years, my household has had three flat tires, all due to nails or screws (there is always some construction going on nearby) where I took the tires to
GoodYear and all three had to be replaced.
One, as I recall, was too close to the shoulder, the other had been driven
on (they said) when they removed the carcass, and just yesterday, the third they said was worn to a wear bar (as it had uneven wear) but it seemed to
me to be barely above the wear bar at the one wear bar he pointed to as
most of the tread was about two or three mm above the wear bars so he
picked the lowest one at about a millimeter or less above the wear bar).
After waiting two hours in the waiting room, the guy came back and said he can't repair a dangerous tire, so again, for the third time, I had to buy a new tire, where it took another hour for them to have the car ready for me.
Given I had to remove the tire anyway to put on the spare, the whole ordeal took about five hours or so in elapsed time just to fix a basic flat.
Could I have more easily just repaired the tire at home?
I realize everything is up to chance but has it been your experience that almost all the tires you want to repair, they say can't be repaired?
Then there's the added cost of sales tax of around ten dollars, mounting
and balancing at around fifteen dollars, and the tire valve of five dollars and the disposal fee of about another five dollars. It all adds up.
I'm wondering if it's worth it to buy a "tire press" or whatever it takes
to change a tire (I have a small portable compressor already) at home.
Anyone repair your own tires at home when you get a flat?
Is it worth the money if you can save a few tires?
In your experience, what percentage of your flat tires have to have the
tire replaced versus just having the flat repaired?
I realize everything is up to chance, but in the last couple of years, my household has had three flat tires, all due to nails or screws (there is always some construction going on nearby) where I took the tires to
GoodYear and all three had to be replaced.
One, as I recall, was too close to the shoulder, the other had been driven
on (they said) when they removed the carcass, and just yesterday, the third they said was worn to a wear bar (as it had uneven wear) but it seemed to
me to be barely above the wear bar at the one wear bar he pointed to as
most of the tread was about two or three mm above the wear bars so he
picked the lowest one at about a millimeter or less above the wear bar).
After waiting two hours in the waiting room, the guy came back and said he can't repair a dangerous tire, so again, for the third time, I had to buy a new tire, where it took another hour for them to have the car ready for me.
Given I had to remove the tire anyway to put on the spare, the whole ordeal took about five hours or so in elapsed time just to fix a basic flat.
Could I have more easily just repaired the tire at home?
I realize everything is up to chance but has it been your experience that almost all the tires you want to repair, they say can't be repaired?
Then there's the added cost of sales tax of around ten dollars, mounting
and balancing at around fifteen dollars, and the tire valve of five dollars and the disposal fee of about another five dollars. It all adds up.
I'm wondering if it's worth it to buy a "tire press" or whatever it takes
to change a tire (I have a small portable compressor already) at home.
Anyone repair your own tires at home when you get a flat?
Is it worth the money if you can save a few tires?
In recent years I've only had two flats. One was plugged and lasted 4
years until it, like the others, was worn. The last one was bout 6
months ago. Patched inside, re-balanced. Total was $28 and a half hour.
I've heard they no longer plug tires as they don't always hold up as
well as a patch inside.
Good luck with your choice but I cannot justify buying equipment,
especially since the time the tire was plugged I was 600 miles from home.
On Sat, 29 Apr 2023 19:53:05 -0400, Ed P wrote:
In recent years I've only had two flats. One was plugged and lasted 4
years until it, like the others, was worn. The last one was bout 6
months ago. Patched inside, re-balanced. Total was $28 and a half hour.
I don't normally get flats myself, but I was counting the whole family.
It average to something like one flat a year, which, at $28 would be fine
but it's more than four times that when they talk you into a new tire.
I don't think your half hour is even close to the time unless you were able to drive on the flat tire, as I'd say it takes at least a half hour just to remove all the crap in the trunk, remove the spare, figure out where the
jack is, put it together, remove the old tire, and throw it back in the trunk.
Then there's the wait at the tire shop where just waiting on the line could be half of that half hour. So unless you live across the street from the GoodYear tire shop, it's almost impossible for it to be a half hour where I live. The commute alone is an hour.
I'm wondering if it's worth it to buy a "tire press" or whatever it
takes to change a tire (I have a small portable compressor already) at
home.
Anyone repair your own tires at home when you get a flat?
Is it worth the money if you can save a few tires?
On 4/29/2023 7:19 PM, Maxmillian wrote:
In your experience, what percentage of your flat tires have to have the
tire replaced versus just having the flat repaired?
I realize everything is up to chance, but in the last couple of
years, my
household has had three flat tires, all due to nails or screws (there is
always some construction going on nearby) where I took the tires to
GoodYear and all three had to be replaced.
One, as I recall, was too close to the shoulder, the other had been
driven
on (they said) when they removed the carcass, and just yesterday, the
third
they said was worn to a wear bar (as it had uneven wear) but it
seemed to
me to be barely above the wear bar at the one wear bar he pointed to as
most of the tread was about two or three mm above the wear bars so he
picked the lowest one at about a millimeter or less above the wear bar).
After waiting two hours in the waiting room, the guy came back and
said he
can't repair a dangerous tire, so again, for the third time, I had to
buy a
new tire, where it took another hour for them to have the car ready
for me.
Given I had to remove the tire anyway to put on the spare, the whole
ordeal
took about five hours or so in elapsed time just to fix a basic flat.
Could I have more easily just repaired the tire at home?
I realize everything is up to chance but has it been your experience
that
almost all the tires you want to repair, they say can't be repaired?
Then there's the added cost of sales tax of around ten dollars, mounting
and balancing at around fifteen dollars, and the tire valve of five
dollars
and the disposal fee of about another five dollars. It all adds up.
I'm wondering if it's worth it to buy a "tire press" or whatever it
takes
to change a tire (I have a small portable compressor already) at home.
I have seen how the mechanic pried open a tire. I'd rather pay him the
$20 to patch a nail puncture than trying to buy a machine to do it
myself.
I had a slow leak in one of my tires for many years. Recently I bought
a can of tire sealant to pump into the tire. It worked. No more slow
leak.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Slime-Thru-Core-Emergency-Flat-Tire-Sealant-60186/807544377
In your experience, what percentage of your flat tires have to have the
tire replaced versus just having the flat repaired?
I realize everything is up to chance, but in the last couple of years, my household has had three flat tires, all due to nails or screws (there is always some construction going on nearby) where I took the tires to
GoodYear and all three had to be replaced.
One, as I recall, was too close to the shoulder, the other had been driven
on (they said) when they removed the carcass, and just yesterday, the third they said was worn to a wear bar (as it had uneven wear) but it seemed to
me to be barely above the wear bar at the one wear bar he pointed to as
most of the tread was about two or three mm above the wear bars so he
picked the lowest one at about a millimeter or less above the wear bar).
After waiting two hours in the waiting room, the guy came back and said he can't repair a dangerous tire, so again, for the third time, I had to buy a new tire, where it took another hour for them to have the car ready for me.
Given I had to remove the tire anyway to put on the spare, the whole ordeal took about five hours or so in elapsed time just to fix a basic flat.
Could I have more easily just repaired the tire at home?
I realize everything is up to chance but has it been your experience that almost all the tires you want to repair, they say can't be repaired?
Then there's the added cost of sales tax of around ten dollars, mounting
and balancing at around fifteen dollars, and the tire valve of five dollars and the disposal fee of about another five dollars. It all adds up.
I'm wondering if it's worth it to buy a "tire press" or whatever it takes
to change a tire (I have a small portable compressor already) at home.
Anyone repair your own tires at home when you get a flat?
Is it worth the money if you can save a few tires?
In your experience, what percentage of your flat tires have to have the
tire replaced versus just having the flat repaired?
I realize everything is up to chance, but in the last couple of years, my >household has had three flat tires, all due to nails or screws (there is >always some construction going on nearby) where I took the tires to
GoodYear and all three had to be replaced.
One, as I recall, was too close to the shoulder, the other had been driven
on (they said) when they removed the carcass, and just yesterday, the third >they said was worn to a wear bar (as it had uneven wear) but it seemed to
me to be barely above the wear bar at the one wear bar he pointed to as
most of the tread was about two or three mm above the wear bars so he
picked the lowest one at about a millimeter or less above the wear bar).
After waiting two hours in the waiting room, the guy came back and said he >can't repair a dangerous tire, so again, for the third time, I had to buy a >new tire, where it took another hour for them to have the car ready for me.
Given I had to remove the tire anyway to put on the spare, the whole ordeal >took about five hours or so in elapsed time just to fix a basic flat.
Could I have more easily just repaired the tire at home?
I realize everything is up to chance but has it been your experience that >almost all the tires you want to repair, they say can't be repaired?
Then there's the added cost of sales tax of around ten dollars, mounting
and balancing at around fifteen dollars, and the tire valve of five dollars >and the disposal fee of about another five dollars. It all adds up.
I'm wondering if it's worth it to buy a "tire press" or whatever it takes
to change a tire (I have a small portable compressor already) at home.
Anyone repair your own tires at home when you get a flat?
Is it worth the money if you can save a few tires?
I had a slow leak in one of my tires for many years. Recently I bought a
can of tire sealant to pump into the tire. It worked. No more slow leak.
On Sun, 30 Apr 2023 00:21:36 -0400, π Mighty Wannabe β wrote:
I had a slow leak in one of my tires for many years. Recently I bought aThey'll love you the next time you buy a tire.
can of tire sealant to pump into the tire. It worked. No more slow leak.
On 4/30/2023 2:06 AM, rbowman wrote:
On Sun, 30 Apr 2023 00:21:36 -0400, Γ°ΕΈΛΕ½ Mighty Wannabe
Γ’Εβ¦ wrote:
I had a slow leak in one of my tires for many years.They'll love you the next time you buy a tire.
Recently I bought a
can of tire sealant to pump into the tire. It worked. No
more slow leak.
I read the description. It is water based, so it can be
washed off with water before it hardens. I guess it works
like some water-based glue. It will harden to seal the leak
but remain liquid inside the tire. It is recommended by the
manufacturer to have the tire professionally patched within
3 days (I guess it is the company protecting against
lawsuits). I read many customer comments that it stopped
their slow leak. That kind of slow leak might be in the rim
area, nothing to do with nail puncture.
In your experience, what percentage of your flat tires have to have the
tire replaced versus just having the flat repaired?
I realize everything is up to chance, but in the last couple of years, my household has had three flat tires, all due to nails or screws (there is always some construction going on nearby) where I took the tires to
GoodYear and all three had to be replaced.
One, as I recall, was too close to the shoulder, the other had been driven
on (they said) when they removed the carcass, and just yesterday, the third they said was worn to a wear bar (as it had uneven wear) but it seemed to
me to be barely above the wear bar at the one wear bar he pointed to as
most of the tread was about two or three mm above the wear bars so he
picked the lowest one at about a millimeter or less above the wear bar).
After waiting two hours in the waiting room, the guy came back and said he can't repair a dangerous tire, so again, for the third time, I had to buy a new tire, where it took another hour for them to have the car ready for me.
Given I had to remove the tire anyway to put on the spare, the whole ordeal took about five hours or so in elapsed time just to fix a basic flat.
Could I have more easily just repaired the tire at home?
I realize everything is up to chance but has it been your experience that almost all the tires you want to repair, they say can't be repaired?
Then there's the added cost of sales tax of around ten dollars, mounting
and balancing at around fifteen dollars, and the tire valve of five dollars and the disposal fee of about another five dollars. It all adds up.
I'm wondering if it's worth it to buy a "tire press" or whatever it takes
to change a tire (I have a small portable compressor already) at home.
Anyone repair your own tires at home when you get a flat?
Is it worth the money if you can save a few tires?
After waiting two hours in the waiting room, the guy came back and said he can't repair a dangerous tire, so again, for the third time, I had to buy a new tire, where it took another hour for them to have the car ready for me.
Given I had to remove the tire anyway to put on the spare, the whole ordeal took about five hours or so in elapsed time just to fix a basic flat.
Could I have more easily just repaired the tire at home?
I realize everything is up to chance but has it been your experience that almost all the tires you want to repair, they say can't be repaired?
On 4/30/2023 2:06 AM, rbowman wrote:
On Sun, 30 Apr 2023 00:21:36 -0400, wrote:
I had a slow leak in one of my tires for many years. Recently I bought a >>> can of tire sealant to pump into the tire. It worked. No more slow leak.They'll love you the next time you buy a tire.
I read the description. It is water based, so it can be washed off with
water before it hardens. I guess it works like some water-based glue. It
will harden to seal the leak but remain liquid inside the tire. It is >recommended by the manufacturer to have the tire professionally patched >within 3 days (I guess it is the company protecting against lawsuits). I
read many customer comments that it stopped their slow leak. That kind
of slow leak might be in the rim area, nothing to do with nail puncture.
My neighbourhood small garage can patch my tire and then balance it
again for $20.
$500 for the machine will be the cost of having 25 tires
fixed by a professional,
I don't think I will
ever need to fix 25 tires in my lifetime.
and you still need to factor in the cost of the
patches and glue if you do it yourself at home.
<@.> wrote:
On 4/30/2023 2:06 AM, rbowman wrote:It is water based, and it turns to a solid lump on contact with air. So
On Sun, 30 Apr 2023 00:21:36 -0400, wrote:I read the description. It is water based, so it can be washed off with
I had a slow leak in one of my tires for many years. Recently I bought a >>>> can of tire sealant to pump into the tire. It worked. No more slow leak. >>> They'll love you the next time you buy a tire.
water before it hardens. I guess it works like some water-based glue. It
will harden to seal the leak but remain liquid inside the tire. It is
recommended by the manufacturer to have the tire professionally patched
within 3 days (I guess it is the company protecting against lawsuits). I
read many customer comments that it stopped their slow leak. That kind
of slow leak might be in the rim area, nothing to do with nail puncture.
the part that is in contact with the leak solidifies very quickly... and
then the rest of it solidifies into crap splattered all over the inside
of the tire and rim after a while... which is why they tell you to clean
it out and have it patched within a couple days.
But the real reason why tire guys hate the stuff is that the propellant
is explosive and can ignite if a spark occurs. So warn them about it so
they can be careful about breaking the bead.
--scott
But the real reason why tire guys hate the stuff is that the propellant
is explosive and can ignite if a spark occurs.
I read the description. It is water based, so it can be
washed off with water before it hardens. I guess it works
like some water-based glue. It will harden to seal the leak
but remain liquid inside the tire. It is recommended by the
manufacturer to have the tire professionally patched within
3 days (I guess it is the company protecting against
lawsuits). I read many customer comments that it stopped
their slow leak. That kind of slow leak might be in the rim
area, nothing to do with nail puncture.
It's a latex emulsion. Clean up with soapy water.
On 2023/04/30 8:5 am, AMuzi wrote:
I read the description. It is water based, so it can be
washed off with water before it hardens. I guess it works
like some water-based glue. It will harden to seal the leak
but remain liquid inside the tire. It is recommended by the
manufacturer to have the tire professionally patched within
3 days (I guess it is the company protecting against
lawsuits). I read many customer comments that it stopped
their slow leak. That kind of slow leak might be in the rim
area, nothing to do with nail puncture.
It's a latex emulsion. Clean up with soapy water.
I have in my trunk tucked inside the spare tire which is flipped upside
down so that the wheel rim forms a round well an emergency flat tire kit.
There are foldable chocks, two blinking multi-color LED lights with the batteries in a ziplock bag outside the device (I gave up on leaving
batteries in the device after ruining a half dozen mag lights - remember them?). Also I gave up on flares (they always made a crumbly yellow mess
over time) & triangles (which work fine until the wind blows them away),
a cigarette lighter air pump, and a tire repair multi-plug fixit kit.
The fixit kit contains an awl and an open-ended insertion tool, glue, a
thin sharp knife, which is important for shearing off the ends.
While the kit comes with four or five four inch long plugs, the reality is once it's opened to the air the kit is ruined - so it's a one-time use kit.
I guess the green goopy stuff could be a useful addition, but notice above the things I've discontinued because they don't really work when you need them a few years AFTER you've put them in the temperature cycled trunk.
I suspect that after sitting in a hot trunk for a couple of years, the pressure would be gone from the can of green goopy stuff.
Of course, the answer is replace it every year, but who does that?
Most people who say they do that, are lying because most people don't.
Just like many people say they change the oil every 3K miles, they don't.
And while many say they rotate tires every 3K miles, most don't.
My reason for bringing that up is few of us will even look into that emergency kit after putting it there - until we need it on the road.
When you're on the side of the road, covered in mud splashed over you on purpose by truckers (yes, I've been there) on a slope, in the rain, at
night, and you're patching a tire - that's when you put those flimsy
foldable triangles down on the road with those weights, and then you instantly watch them blow across the road when the next trucker splashes
you (and yes, I've been there). Same with flares. Same with corroded batteries left inside the device.
If it goes in the trunk, it better be designed to last for years in
hot/cold cycles like you can't believe.
I bring this up because the green goop is not likely to have survived.
I know the counter is people will "say" they replace it every year.
I won't. I'll leave it in the trunk.
I suspect by the time I really need it, I can't rely on it working.
https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=tire%20machine
Thanks for the link, but it's a lot of work taking the tire off the car, prying it open, patching the puncture, and then putting the tire back together and onto the car (minus the balancing). I haven't encountered
enough tire punctures in my life to justify saving that once in a blue
moon $20 expense to get someone else to fix it for me.
I suggest looking for a local small shop on the cheaper side of town that does
tires. I think you're more likely to have them be willing to do a repair versus the
large chain shops, etc. that are going to be overly cautious and wanting to sell
new tires.
I haven't had a lot of tires that had problems over the years, but I'd
guess that it was about 25% could not be plugged, 75% could. It also depends on
what you're going to use the tire for. If it's going to be the spare, only get used
temporarily or never, I would be less concerned about the repair. All the ones
that I plugged lasted the life of the tire.
I suspect by the time I really need it, I can't rely on it working.
Maybe that's why they invented spare tires? It probably was not just to
have a place to store a fixit kit.
Unfortunately, my AWD Sienna does not have a space for a spare tire, so
it just gets stashed in the back if I carry one.
On 2023/04/30 8:5 am, AMuzi wrote:
I read the description. It is water based, so it can be
washed off with water before it hardens. I guess it works
like some water-based glue. It will harden to seal the leak
but remain liquid inside the tire. It is recommended by the
manufacturer to have the tire professionally patched within
3 days (I guess it is the company protecting against
lawsuits). I read many customer comments that it stopped
their slow leak. That kind of slow leak might be in the rim
area, nothing to do with nail puncture.
It's a latex emulsion. Clean up with soapy water.
I have in my trunk tucked inside the spare tire which is flipped upside
down so that the wheel rim forms a round well an emergency flat tire kit.
There are foldable chocks, two blinking multi-color LED lights with the batteries in a ziplock bag outside the device (I gave up on leaving
batteries in the device after ruining a half dozen mag lights - remember them?). Also I gave up on flares (they always made a crumbly yellow mess
over time) & triangles (which work fine until the wind blows them
away), a cigarette lighter air pump, and a tire repair multi-plug
fixit kit.
The fixit kit contains an awl and an open-ended insertion tool, glue, a
thin sharp knife, which is important for shearing off the ends.
While the kit comes with four or five four inch long plugs, the
reality is
once it's opened to the air the kit is ruined - so it's a one-time use
kit.
I guess the green goopy stuff could be a useful addition, but notice
above
the things I've discontinued because they don't really work when you need them a few years AFTER you've put them in the temperature cycled trunk.
I suspect that after sitting in a hot trunk for a couple of years, the pressure would be gone from the can of green goopy stuff.
Of course, the answer is replace it every year, but who does that?
Most people who say they do that, are lying because most people don't.
Just like many people say they change the oil every 3K miles, they don't.
And while many say they rotate tires every 3K miles, most don't.
My reason for bringing that up is few of us will even look into that emergency kit after putting it there - until we need it on the road.
When you're on the side of the road, covered in mud splashed over you on purpose by truckers (yes, I've been there) on a slope, in the rain, at
night, and you're patching a tire - that's when you put those flimsy
foldable triangles down on the road with those weights, and then you instantly watch them blow across the road when the next trucker splashes
you (and yes, I've been there). Same with flares. Same with corroded batteries left inside the device.
If it goes in the trunk, it better be designed to last for years in
hot/cold cycles like you can't believe.
I bring this up because the green goop is not likely to have survived.
I know the counter is people will "say" they replace it every year.
I won't. I'll leave it in the trunk.
I suspect by the time I really need it, I can't rely on it working.
On 2023/04/30 5:59 pm, Bob F wrote:
I suspect by the time I really need it, I can't rely on it working.
Maybe that's why they invented spare tires? It probably was not just
to have a place to store a fixit kit.
Unfortunately, my AWD Sienna does not have a space for a spare tire,
so it just gets stashed in the back if I carry one.
Touche!
I was so focused on describing a trunk fixit kit has to last years in hot
and cold cycles like you can't believe, I forgot all about the spare
tire!
Mainly I was pointing out that the green goopy stuff isn't likely to be
there when you need it. I prefer a cigarette lighter air pump instead.
But you're correct that if you get a flat, what you need is the emergency stuff (lights, flares, triangles, shiny clothes, a plastic bag to lay
down
on, and a big "fuck you" sign on the top of the car to those truckers.
Oh, and you'll need that jack of death too. And the chocks. And a tire
iron (which should last for years as it came from the factory).
I think they design those tire irons to be torqued to 85 foot pounds & no more (someone told me that they designed them that way for a normal man).
I just step on them. Does anyone else do that? Or is it just me who does?
Mighty Wannabe wrote:
https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=tire%20machine
Thanks for the link, but it's a lot of work taking the tire off the
car, prying it open, patching the puncture, and then putting the tire
back together and onto the car (minus the balancing). I haven't
encountered enough tire punctures in my life to justify saving that
once in a blue moon $20 expense to get someone else to fix it for me.
If the tire changing machine at HF costs $100 then it pays for itself the first time you need to replace 4 tires on your vehicle (at $25 per tire).
The ability to repair your tires at home is just an added convenience.
I believe the pressure inside the pressurized Slime Tire Sealant will
stay there forever because the content is "tire sealant" so by nature
the gas will never leak from its own container.
I have WD-40 in my trunk and never lost pressure.
The sealant is some water-based gooey stuff with lumps of thick resin. I don't think it will degrade over time inside of the can. There are also
other versions that are not pressurized, but you have to use valve-core
tool inside bottle cap that it comes with to remove the valve-core
before you squeeze the content into the valve.
It is very dangerous to fix your car tire beside the highway.
Even
police vehicles parked on the roadside with full emergency lights
blaring can get wiped out by on-coming trucks. For some reason a car
parked on the side of the road would attract other cars to ram into it.
The best bet if you have a tire puncture on the road is to pump tire
sealant into the flat tire, then pump air into the tire with a battery
air pump, and get to safety ASAP.
On 4/30/2023 10:37 AM, Scott Dorsey wrote:
<@.> wrote:
On 4/30/2023 2:06 AM, rbowman wrote:It is water based, and it turns to a solid lump on contact with air. So
On Sun, 30 Apr 2023 00:21:36 -0400, wrote:I read the description. It is water based, so it can be washed off with
I had a slow leak in one of my tires for many years. Recently I bought a >>>>> can of tire sealant to pump into the tire. It worked. No more slow leak. >>>> They'll love you the next time you buy a tire.
water before it hardens. I guess it works like some water-based glue. It >>> will harden to seal the leak but remain liquid inside the tire. It is
recommended by the manufacturer to have the tire professionally patched
within 3 days (I guess it is the company protecting against lawsuits). I >>> read many customer comments that it stopped their slow leak. That kind
of slow leak might be in the rim area, nothing to do with nail puncture.
the part that is in contact with the leak solidifies very quickly... and
then the rest of it solidifies into crap splattered all over the inside
of the tire and rim after a while... which is why they tell you to clean
it out and have it patched within a couple days.
But the real reason why tire guys hate the stuff is that the propellant
is explosive and can ignite if a spark occurs. So warn them about it so
they can be careful about breaking the bead.
--scott
I don't think those companies making tire sealants would be stupid
enough to use explosive gas as propellant in their aerosol tire sealant >products. The gas will remain inside the tire, unlike hairspray or >insecticide that will immediately dissipated into the atmosphere.
According to this "tire sealer and inflator" patent application, they
use CFC (a popular refrigerant gas) as propellant.
https://patents.justia.com/patent/4501825
A novel tire sealant and inflator composition comprising a resin, a
latex sealant, alkylene glycol, fibers, an alkanolamine, a foaming
agent, and water. The composition is packaged in aerosol cans with a >chlorofluorocarbon propellant/inflator and used to seal and inflate
punctured tires. The composition is applied to the punctured tire
through the valve stem, and acts to seal the puncture and inflate the
tire sufficiently to support the weight of the car.
=?UTF-8?B?8J+YjiBNaWdodHkgV2FubmFiZSDinIU=?= <@.> writes:
On 4/30/2023 10:37 AM, Scott Dorsey wrote:That patent was from 1984. Chlorofluorocarbons have been banned for
<@.> wrote:
On 4/30/2023 2:06 AM, rbowman wrote:of the tire and rim after a while... which is why they tell you to clean >>> it out and have it patched within a couple days.
On Sun, 30 Apr 2023 00:21:36 -0400, wrote:I read the description. It is water based, so it can be washed off with >>>> water before it hardens. I guess it works like some water-based glue. It >>>> will harden to seal the leak but remain liquid inside the tire. It is
I had a slow leak in one of my tires for many years. Recently I bought a >>>>>> can of tire sealant to pump into the tire. It worked. No more slow leak. >>>>> They'll love you the next time you buy a tire.
recommended by the manufacturer to have the tire professionally patched >>>> within 3 days (I guess it is the company protecting against lawsuits). I >>>> read many customer comments that it stopped their slow leak. That kind >>>> of slow leak might be in the rim area, nothing to do with nail puncture. >>> It is water based, and it turns to a solid lump on contact with air. So >>> the part that is in contact with the leak solidifies very quickly... and >>> then the rest of it solidifies into crap splattered all over the inside
But the real reason why tire guys hate the stuff is that the propellant
is explosive and can ignite if a spark occurs. So warn them about it so >>> they can be careful about breaking the bead.
--scott
I don't think those companies making tire sealants would be stupid
enough to use explosive gas as propellant in their aerosol tire sealant
products. The gas will remain inside the tire, unlike hairspray or
insecticide that will immediately dissipated into the atmosphere.
According to this "tire sealer and inflator" patent application, they
use CFC (a popular refrigerant gas) as propellant.
https://patents.justia.com/patent/4501825
A novel tire sealant and inflator composition comprising a resin, a
latex sealant, alkylene glycol, fibers, an alkanolamine, a foaming
agent, and water. The composition is packaged in aerosol cans with a
chlorofluorocarbon propellant/inflator and used to seal and inflate
punctured tires. The composition is applied to the punctured tire
through the valve stem, and acts to seal the puncture and inflate the
tire sufficiently to support the weight of the car.
thirty years.
Mighty Wannabe wrote:
I believe the pressure inside the pressurized Slime Tire Sealant will
stay there forever because the content is "tire sealant" so by nature
the gas will never leak from its own container.
I am not so sure of that as I've grabbed plenty of spray cans in my life
only to find that they're dead. I guess most were probably used though.
The temperature cycles in a trunk are horrific so it would be useful to
find what the manufacturer suggests as a reasonable replacement period.
I have WD-40 in my trunk and never lost pressure.
As I already mentioned, there are a lot of things people told me to do
that
I realized aren't great ideas (like the aforementioned flares, which
just turn into a crumbly yellow mess after years in a wet/dry hot/cold trunk).
One of those things was WD-40, which people seem to think is some kind of miracle water cure for just about every ill that a mechanic could
imagine.
I long ago gave up on the smelly stuff (it gives me a headache) and I've never even fretted about it. When I need oil, I use oil. When I need to loosen rusty nuts, I use ATF and bang a lot. When I need to "displace
water", I spray it with the compressor air gun.
What does WD-40 do that Jesus' own miracle water doesn't do?
The sealant is some water-based gooey stuff with lumps of thick
resin. I don't think it will degrade over time inside of the can.
There are also other versions that are not pressurized, but you have
to use valve-core tool inside bottle cap that it comes with to remove
the valve-core before you squeeze the content into the valve.
I don't use the green goopy stuff but I "thought" it was pressurized.
My beef was that it's going to lose pressure when stuck in a hot/cold
trunk
for years, such that when you really need it, it will no longer be there.
I've had this happen with halon fire extinguishers when I first started driving as people 'told me' I need to keep one in the car. When I needed
it, it wasn't there for me, and that alone taught me a valuable lesson.
If it's going to go in the trunk, then it can't be a can of pressurized anything because the moment you are under pressure, it won't be there.
If the green goopy stuff is not pressurized, then that would be fine.
It is very dangerous to fix your car tire beside the highway.
Whether or not it's "very dangerous" is up to people to determine
themselves. I've pulled over to pee for example. Is that very dangerous?
In some situations, like on the Pulaski Skyway, it's already very
dangerous
just to be driving on the thing, let alone being pulled over to the side.
In other cases, such as in the middle of Montana on I80, you could
park an
entire herd of cattle in the median while you work on putting the
spare on.
What's "very dangerous" are those damn truckers. They drive close to you
just for their own fun. If you don't know what I mean, you never drove in
NJ along roads like Highway 9, or Route 202, or Route 1. They're
assholes.
Even police vehicles parked on the roadside with full emergency
lights blaring can get wiped out by on-coming trucks. For some reason
a car parked on the side of the road would attract other cars to ram
into it.
I'm aware there are many stories where people rammed police cars which
had
their lights on. Worse, truckers (yes, in NJ) aim to get as close to the police as they can, just for their own glee - and every once in a while
(read the news) they actually hit the policemen (by accident) doing that.
Did I mention yet that the most dangerous situation when you're pulled
over
to repair your car are the truckers love to mess with you as they
drive by?
The best bet if you have a tire puncture on the road is to pump tire
sealant into the flat tire, then pump air into the tire with a
battery air pump, and get to safety ASAP.
Nowadays, with cellphones, which none of us had when we drove half our
lives or more, you can just call AAA for the ladies and for the men, you
can call the government 511 who usually tows you off the road for free.
Once off the road, the government free towers leave you in a safe spot
where you can then safely work on the care to your hearts content.
I think even the basic AAA will tow you five miles to a gas station for
those women who feel the need for the safety. From there they can call
you.
I've never needed a tow in my long life, but I've seen lots of cars
parked
on the side with big stickers on the rear window so others must have not figured out what was wrong with the car and had to abandon it on the
side.
I never bought a new car but I know how to repair them which is useful because unless you lose an axle, you can usually limp home on chewing
gum.
Mainly I was pointing out that the green goopy stuff isn't likely to be
there when you need it. I prefer a cigarette lighter air pump instead.
You still need the air pump after you've injected the green goopy stuff
into the tire. The tire sealant is meant to be injected into a flat
tire. You need to use air pump to bring the tire pressure up so you can
drive away.
I believe the pressure inside the pressurized Slime Tire Sealant will
stay there forever because the content is "tire sealant" so by nature
the gas will never leak from its own container.
I have WD-40 in my trunk
and never lost pressure.
The sealant is some water-based gooey stuff with lumps of thick resin. I don't think it will degrade over time inside of the can. There are also
other versions that are not pressurized, but you have to use valve-core
tool inside bottle cap that it comes with to remove the valve-core
before you squeeze the content into the valve.
It is very dangerous to fix your car tire beside the highway.
Even
police vehicles parked on the roadside with full emergency lights
blaring can get wiped out by on-coming trucks. For some reason a car
parked on the side of the road would attract other cars to ram into it.
The best bet if you have a tire puncture on the road is to pump tire
sealant into the flat tire, then pump air into the tire with a battery
air pump, and get to safety ASAP.
Mighty Wannabe wrote:
I believe the pressure inside the pressurized Slime Tire Sealant will
stay there forever because the content is "tire sealant" so by nature
the gas will never leak from its own container.
I am not so sure of that as I've grabbed plenty of spray cans in my life
only to find that they're dead. I guess most were probably used though.
The temperature cycles in a trunk are horrific so it would be useful to
find what the manufacturer suggests as a reasonable replacement period.
I have WD-40 in my trunk and never lost pressure.
As I already mentioned, there are a lot of things people told me to do
that
I realized aren't great ideas (like the aforementioned flares, which
just turn into a crumbly yellow mess after years in a wet/dry hot/cold trunk).
One of those things was WD-40, which people seem to think is some kind of miracle water cure for just about every ill that a mechanic could
imagine.
I long ago gave up on the smelly stuff (it gives me a headache) and I've never even fretted about it. When I need oil, I use oil. When I need to loosen rusty nuts, I use ATF and bang a lot. When I need to "displace
water", I spray it with the compressor air gun.
What does WD-40 do that Jesus' own miracle water doesn't do?
The sealant is some water-based gooey stuff with lumps of thick
resin. I don't think it will degrade over time inside of the can.
There are also other versions that are not pressurized, but you have
to use valve-core tool inside bottle cap that it comes with to remove
the valve-core before you squeeze the content into the valve.
I don't use the green goopy stuff but I "thought" it was pressurized.
My beef was that it's going to lose pressure when stuck in a hot/cold
trunk
for years, such that when you really need it, it will no longer be there.
I've had this happen with halon fire extinguishers when I first started driving as people 'told me' I need to keep one in the car. When I needed
it, it wasn't there for me, and that alone taught me a valuable lesson.
If it's going to go in the trunk, then it can't be a can of pressurized anything because the moment you are under pressure, it won't be there.
If the green goopy stuff is not pressurized, then that would be fine.
It is very dangerous to fix your car tire beside the highway.
Whether or not it's "very dangerous" is up to people to determine
themselves. I've pulled over to pee for example. Is that very dangerous?
In some situations, like on the Pulaski Skyway, it's already very
dangerous
just to be driving on the thing, let alone being pulled over to the side.
In other cases, such as in the middle of Montana on I80, you could
park an
entire herd of cattle in the median while you work on putting the
spare on.
What's "very dangerous" are those damn truckers. They drive close to you
just for their own fun. If you don't know what I mean, you never drove in
NJ along roads like Highway 9, or Route 202, or Route 1. They're
assholes.
Even police vehicles parked on the roadside with full emergency
lights blaring can get wiped out by on-coming trucks. For some reason
a car parked on the side of the road would attract other cars to ram
into it.
I'm aware there are many stories where people rammed police cars which
had
their lights on. Worse, truckers (yes, in NJ) aim to get as close to the police as they can, just for their own glee - and every once in a while
(read the news) they actually hit the policemen (by accident) doing that.
Did I mention yet that the most dangerous situation when you're pulled
over
to repair your car are the truckers love to mess with you as they
drive by?
The best bet if you have a tire puncture on the road is to pump tire
sealant into the flat tire, then pump air into the tire with a
battery air pump, and get to safety ASAP.
Nowadays, with cellphones, which none of us had when we drove half our
lives or more, you can just call AAA for the ladies and for the men, you
can call the government 511 who usually tows you off the road for free.
Once off the road, the government free towers leave you in a safe spot
where you can then safely work on the care to your hearts content.
I think even the basic AAA will tow you five miles to a gas station for
those women who feel the need for the safety. From there they can call
you.
I've never needed a tow in my long life, but I've seen lots of cars
parked
on the side with big stickers on the rear window so others must have not figured out what was wrong with the car and had to abandon it on the
side.
I never bought a new car but I know how to repair them which is useful because unless you lose an axle, you can usually limp home on chewing
gum.
On 2023/04/30 2:37 pm, Scott Dorsey wrote:
But the real reason why tire guys hate the stuff is that the propellant
is explosive and can ignite if a spark occurs.
Do you bullshit on purpose because you want to sound like you know
something? Or do you actually believe the bullshit that you just said?
On 2023/04/30 10:29 am, οΏ½οΏ½οΏ½οΏ½οΏ½οΏ½ Mighty Wannabe β wrote:
On 2023/04/30 10:29 am, Mighty Wannabe wrote:
Mainly I was pointing out that the green goopy stuff isn't likely to be
there when you need it. I prefer a cigarette lighter air pump instead.
You still need the air pump after you've injected the green goopy
stuff into the tire. The tire sealant is meant to be injected into a
flat tire. You need to use air pump to bring the tire pressure up so
you can drive away.
Oh. Thanks. I didn't realize the green goopy stuff is injected into a
tire which no longer has any pressure and that it wasn't meant to
pressurize the tire. It's got to take a LOT of air to fill a tire anyway.
The green goopy stuff must have 'some' pressure though, as what's
going to make it go inside the tire? Gravity?
I believe the pressure inside the pressurized Slime Tire Sealant will
stay there forever because the content is "tire sealant" so by nature
the gas will never leak from its own container.
I don't believe it.
What would be nice is confirmation from the manufacturer on the
storage lifetime in a trunk that experiences mighty hot and mighty
cold cycles.
I have WD-40 in my trunk and never lost pressure.
Some day I'm going to figure out what WD-40 does that the right choice doesn't do better. Besides, just the smell of WD-40 gives me a headache.
The sealant is some water-based gooey stuff with lumps of thick
resin. I don't think it will degrade over time inside of the can.
There are also other versions that are not pressurized, but you have
to use valve-core tool inside bottle cap that it comes with to remove
the valve-core before you squeeze the content into the valve.
Removing the schrader valve isn't any big deal, although if it's
night, along the road, on a driver-side tire, and a trucker plays his
tricks on you, that teeny tiny beautiful lovely shiny red and silver
jewel will be scattered somewhere along the road along with your
flares and triangles.
It is very dangerous to fix your car tire beside the highway.
Please stop saying that. This is a home repair group and an automotive
repair group. It's dangerous to do anything. Everything we do is
dangerous.
It's dangerous to use scissors or to drink from a glass cup too.
It's dangerous to saw wood or to drill holes in metal also.
It's dangerous to put coolant in a car. It's dangerous to change your
own oil.
It's dangerous to bleed your own brakes.
It's dangerous to climb a ladder.
Just saying it's dangerous to fix your car beside the highway is like
saying don't use a chainsaw because you will chop off all your fingers.
Whether or not its very dangerous will depend greatly on the situation.
You repeating that endlessly is just frustrating because it's wrong.
It's not dangerous sometimes. It's not very dangerous most of the time.
But it could be very dangerous some of the time too.
Like if you break down in the middle of the Pulaski Skyway.
That's very dangerous all the time, in my humble opinion.
But most of the time, it's just not as safe as you'd like it to be.
Even police vehicles parked on the roadside with full emergency
lights blaring can get wiped out by on-coming trucks. For some reason
a car parked on the side of the road would attract other cars to ram
into it.
While I have watched almost every video on YouTube for crazy drivers,
so I know that a lot of people drive into things they shouldn't be
driving into, the reason they provide a shoulder and median is so that
you can pull over.
Hell, I pull over all the time to duck behind a tree to take care of business, but I'm not hiding behind that tree due to the danger I feel.
If you're that afraid of the shoulder of the road, then that's why
they invented AAA (mostly for women who don't know how to fix a broken
car).
I give AAA as a gift to a bunch of relatives who are girls and who get
a new car. Usually I give it to them for five years, but I never give
it to the boys because they have to learn how to be a man and not a
scared wuss.
The best bet if you have a tire puncture on the road is to pump tire
sealant into the flat tire, then pump air into the tire with a
battery air pump, and get to safety ASAP.
That's a good point of what's the "best" bet if you have a flat.
How many flats are unrepairable?
That's why they put the spare tire on the car (as someone else noted).
Seems to me if you're pulled over in a location that isn't as safe as
you'd like it to be, the best bet is whatever is the fastest solution
that doesn't put you into danger.
A lot might depend on what side of the vehicle has the flat and the
angle of the embankment and the amount of room and the weather and
traffic, etc.
I'd think one of the better bets is to first assess the situation.
Then decide if you should give up and call for help.
Or decide to put the spare on.
Or decide to fix it on the spot.
If you decide to fix it on the spot, you're going to need "something"
to patch up the hole, and then you're going to need "something" to put
air back into that tire.
For me, that's the tire repair plugs and the little tiny compressor.
For others, I guess it's that green goopy stuff and a half dozen air
cans.
How many cans of air does it take anyway to fill up a typical SUV tire?
Well it says they
sell new tires too, but they assume I'm there for used tires. If they
ever didn't have my size, I guess they'd sell me new.
I was buying new from a used tire place. They charged 2 bucks each to dispose of the old.
As I was getting the new ones, the guy behind me was buying my old from the dealer for 20 each.
On 4/30/2023 12:16 PM, John Robertson wrote:
On 2023/04/30 5:59 pm, Bob F wrote:
I suspect by the time I really need it, I can't rely on it working.
Maybe that's why they invented spare tires? It probably was not just
to have a place to store a fixit kit.
Unfortunately, my AWD Sienna does not have a space for a spare tire,
so it just gets stashed in the back if I carry one.
Touche!
I was so focused on describing a trunk fixit kit has to last years in hot
and cold cycles like you can't believe, I forgot all about the spare
tire!
Mainly I was pointing out that the green goopy stuff isn't likely to be
there when you need it. I prefer a cigarette lighter air pump instead.
You still need the air pump after you've injected the green goopy stuff
into the tire. The tire sealant is meant to be injected into a flat
tire. You need to use air pump to bring the tire pressure up so you can
drive away.
I believe the pressure inside the pressurized Slime Tire Sealant will
stay there forever because the content is "tire sealant" so by nature
the gas will never leak from its own container. I have WD-40 in my trunk
and never lost pressure.
The sealant is some water-based gooey stuff with lumps of thick resin. I don't think it will degrade over time inside of the can. There are also
other versions that are not pressurized, but you have to use valve-core
tool inside bottle cap that it comes with to remove the valve-core
before you squeeze the content into the valve.
But you're correct that if you get a flat, what you need is the emergency
stuff (lights, flares, triangles, shiny clothes, a plastic bag to lay
down
on, and a big "fuck you" sign on the top of the car to those truckers.
It is very dangerous to fix your car tire beside the highway. Even
police vehicles parked on the roadside with full emergency lights
blaring can get wiped out by on-coming trucks. For some reason a car
parked on the side of the road would attract other cars to ram into it.
CFC has been replaced by another environmentally friendly refrigerant. I
am sure there are other nonflammable propellant out there. Helium may be
a good candidate. I can buy a small tank of helium from party-stores to inflate balloons.
On 2023/04/30 10:53 am, οΏ½οΏ½οΏ½οΏ½οΏ½οΏ½ Mighty Wannabe β wrote:
CFC has been replaced by another environmentally friendly refrigerant.
I am sure there are other nonflammable propellant out there. Helium
may be a good candidate. I can buy a small tank of helium from
party-stores to inflate balloons.
Speaking of environmentally friendly gases, I refill my sodastream
containers and twenty pound carbon dioxide welding tanks with dry ice.
They make and I bought a gadget that refills the sodastream containers from the welding tanks (it's just a high pressure hose, valves, and a gauge).
I wonder if they make a gadget like that for filling up tires once?
It wouldn't have to be carbon dioxide. It could be any non-flammable gas.
The pressure of carbon dioxide varies according to temperature, but even nominally at around 850 psi, it would need to be regulated down to
twentieth of that for a tire, but I wonder if they make a gadget for that?
I have a small fire extinguisher in the driver's door pocket that is as
close to me as possible in my car. The small fire extinguisher has a
built-in pressure gauge. It has never lost pressure. I think I have had
that same fire extinguisher in all the cars I had gone through in the
last 20 years.
Not exactly the one I have, but like this: https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-1038789-Standard-Extinguisher/dp/B01LTICQYE
If the tire changing machine at HF costs $100 then it pays for itself the
first time you need to replace 4 tires on your vehicle (at $25 per tire).
The ability to repair your tires at home is just an added convenience.
I love to fix many different things at home, but I have an aversion to
prying open car tires myself, especially when it is a lot of work, and
not expensive to pay others to do it.
On 2023/04/30 10:53 am, οΏ½οΏ½οΏ½οΏ½οΏ½οΏ½ Mighty Wannabe β wrote:
CFC has been replaced by another environmentally friendly
refrigerant. I am sure there are other nonflammable propellant out
there. Helium may be a good candidate. I can buy a small tank of
helium from party-stores to inflate balloons.
Speaking of environmentally friendly gases, I refill my sodastream
containers and twenty pound carbon dioxide welding tanks with dry ice.
They make and I bought a gadget that refills the sodastream containers
from
the welding tanks (it's just a high pressure hose, valves, and a gauge).
I wonder if they make a gadget like that for filling up tires once?
It wouldn't have to be carbon dioxide. It could be any non-flammable gas.
The pressure of carbon dioxide varies according to temperature, but even nominally at around 850 psi, it would need to be regulated down to
twentieth of that for a tire, but I wonder if they make a gadget for
that?
On Apr 30, 2023, οΏ½οΏ½οΏ½οΏ½οΏ½οΏ½ Mighty Wannabe β wrote
(in article<news:mNw3M.1004828$S2l4.682037@fx12.ams1>):
If the tire changing machine at HF costs $100 then it pays for itself the >>> first time you need to replace 4 tires on your vehicle (at $25 per tire). >>>
The ability to repair your tires at home is just an added convenience.
I love to fix many different things at home, but I have an aversion to
prying open car tires myself, especially when it is a lot of work, and
not expensive to pay others to do it.
My wife uses that exact same excuse on me all the time. :->
If someone doesn't want to do something, there are always excuses for why.
I watched the videos. Doesn't look all that hard.
Of course, youtube videos only show the tires that worked out well.
But some of those videos were of some guy in his back yard, another set of guys in a garage, and even one was an old Asian guy in his pajamas and slippers in his driveway. So I doubt it's too hard if you want to do it.
Same thing I tell my wife.
So that might not work on you either. :->
It seems like it's easy to do at home if you like working on your car.
If you don't like working on your car, then nobody can talk you into even doing an oil change, as the main excuse people use who never did things is that they don't want to do them (which is a perfectly good excuse).
But this should be the type of group for people who actually like doing things for themselves instead of paying people to wash behind their ears.
Ron, the humblest guy in town.
I wouldn't be able to walk
to the hospital's washroom without pissing my pants. Good thing I had
that empty jug.
The hand powered tire changer probably needs to be bolted to the floor
to work well.
I've noticed people who have never done something are always the ones
saying that it can't be done. We need to ask someone who has done it.
Whoever posted those videos shows that it can easily be done at home.
If the tire changing machine at HF costs $100 then it pays for itself
the first time you need to replace 4 tires on your vehicle (at $25 per
tire).
On 4/30/2023 11:52 AM, Gronk wrote:
Mighty Wannabe wrote:
https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=tire%20machine
Thanks for the link, but it's a lot of work taking the tire off the
car, prying it open, patching the puncture, and then putting the tire
back together and onto the car (minus the balancing). I haven't
encountered enough tire punctures in my life to justify saving that
once in a blue moon $20 expense to get someone else to fix it for me.
If the tire changing machine at HF costs $100 then it pays for itself
the first time you need to replace 4 tires on your vehicle (at $25 per
tire).
The ability to repair your tires at home is just an added convenience.
I love to fix many different things at home, but I have an aversion to
prying open car tires myself, especially when it is a lot of work, and
not expensive to pay others to do it.
Mighty Wannabe wrote:
https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=tire%20machine
Thanks for the link, but it's a lot of work taking the tire off the
car, prying it open, patching the puncture, and then putting the tire
back together and onto the car (minus the balancing). I haven't
encountered enough tire punctures in my life to justify saving that
once in a blue moon $20 expense to get someone else to fix it for me.
If the tire changing machine at HF costs $100 then it pays for itself the first time you need to replace 4 tires on your vehicle (at $25 per tire).
The ability to repair your tires at home is just an added convenience.
On Sun, 30 Apr 2023 09:07:31 -0600, Gronk wrote:
I've noticed people who have never done something are always the ones
saying that it can't be done. We need to ask someone who has done it.
Whoever posted those videos shows that it can easily be done at home.
Very few of the videos show when the project turns to shit. You know, when your entire vocabulary has been pruned down to 'Fuck! Fuck! Fuck!' as you beat on the tire with a 5lb hammer trying to get the fucking bead to seat.
I've noticed the people who have never done something tend to be over optimistic.
On Sun, 30 Apr 2023 09:52:25 -0600, Gronk wrote:
If the tire changing machine at HF costs $100 then it pays for itself
the first time you need to replace 4 tires on your vehicle (at $25 per
tire).
https://www.lesschwab.com/tires/free-tire-repair
I realize Les Schwab is not nationwide. However the free mounting when you buy the tires, plus free rotation, and repairs should be factored in.
How much did you save buying those Cooper CS5's from Amazon?
Oh, and you'll need that jack of death too. And the chocks.
And a tire iron (which should last for years as it came from the
factory).
I think they design those tire irons to be torqued to 85 foot pounds &
no more (someone told me that they designed them that way for a normal
man).
The ability to repair your tires at home is just an added convenience.
Of course to to it right you also need to be able to balance them too.
What does that cost?
I find it easier to pay and read a magazine while the work is being
done. I get a few years out of a set of tires.
Maybe that's why they invented spare tires? It probably was not just to
have a place to store a fixit kit.
Unfortunately, my AWD Sienna does not have a space for a spare tire, so
it just gets stashed in the back if I carry one.
rbowman wrote:
On Sun, 30 Apr 2023 09:07:31 -0600, Gronk wrote:
I've noticed people who have never done something are always the ones
saying that it can't be done. We need to ask someone who has done it.
Whoever posted those videos shows that it can easily be done at home.
Very few of the videos show when the project turns to shit. You know,
when your entire vocabulary has been pruned down to 'Fuck! Fuck!
Fuck!' as you beat on the tire with a 5lb hammer trying to get the
fucking bead to seat.
I've noticed the people who have never done something tend to be over
optimistic.
People promoting it often make it sound a little bit easier than it is. People deprecating it always make it sound a lot harder than it really is.
Usually they're just justifying why _they_ would never do home repairs.
You have to wonder why they are on a home repair newsgroup after all.
Few here can justify the cost of equipment to do it properly.
In the past 8 years I bought 4 tires, had one repaired. No way I can
justify buying the equipment and doing the labor. It would be a big
loss compared to investing that money and paying labor as needed.
Just because you can, does not mean you should.
OP said:
I'm wondering if it's worth it to buy a "tire press" or whatever it takes
to change a tire (I have a small portable compressor already) at home.
Anyone repair your own tires at home when you get a flat?
Is it worth the money if you can save a few tires?
You don't know what you don't know. I don't either.
Losing a tire at speed is quite an exciting adventure which
I hope you never experience and that makes tire repair guys
err on the conservative side of evaluation.
Some tires can be safely and effectively plugged. Some
cannot. There's judgement involved in that decision based on
similar prior experience.
I've noticed the people who have never done something tend to be over
optimistic.
People promoting it often make it sound a little bit easier than it is. People deprecating it always make it sound a lot harder than it really is.
Usually they're just justifying why _they_ would never do home repairs.
You have to wonder why they are on a home repair newsgroup after all.
On 4/30/2023 12:41 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
https://patents.justia.com/patent/4501825That patent was from 1984. Chlorofluorocarbons have been banned for
A novel tire sealant and inflator composition comprising a resin, a
latex sealant, alkylene glycol, fibers, an alkanolamine, a foaming
agent, and water. The composition is packaged in aerosol cans with a
chlorofluorocarbon propellant/inflator and used to seal and inflate
punctured tires. The composition is applied to the punctured tire
through the valve stem, and acts to seal the puncture and inflate the
tire sufficiently to support the weight of the car.
thirty years.
CFC has been replaced by another environmentally friendly refrigerant. I
am sure there are other nonflammable propellant out there. Helium may be
a good candidate. I can buy a small tank of helium from party-stores to >inflate balloons.
On Sun, 30 Apr 2023 06:33:25 -0700 (PDT), trader_4 wrote:
I suggest looking for a local small shop on the cheaper side of town that does
tires. I think you're more likely to have them be willing to do a repair versus the
large chain shops, etc. that are going to be overly cautious and wanting to sell
new tires.
What I mostly hated was all the waiting, and driving, and traffic, and >disappointment being told in the end that they mainly wanted to sell new >tires. Worse, they didn't have the same tread pattern but that didn't
bother them. I don't know if it matters but I know it "could" matter >sometimes if the tread pattern makes a difference (which you won't know
until it's too late).
If I had the tire press, I would just do it my self and take the risk of my >efforts, which is why I'm asking here on a repair & automotive tech group.
I haven't had a lot of tires that had problems over the years, but I'd
guess that it was about 25% could not be plugged, 75% could. It also depends on
what you're going to use the tire for. If it's going to be the spare, only get used
temporarily or never, I would be less concerned about the repair. All the ones
that I plugged lasted the life of the tire.
Thank you for answering the question as faithfully as you could.
Nobody else even tried to answer the question before saying what they'd do.
It seems reasonable that 1/4 of the tires that are flat "shouldn't" be >repaired if people follow the rules rigidly (which tires shops will do).
For one, I would think most tires are "driven on" for some distance after >they're flat, either because it's a slow leak or the driver needs to get
off the road to a safe place before changing over to the spare tire.
It would be good to know how long a flat tire can be driven on before it's >ruined. Is it 100 feet? 1 mile? More? Less? I don't know. Any idea?
Also we've all had nails/screws that are close to the edge, where I don't >know exactly where 'too close' might be, but I'm sure a shop will be more >conservative on that than I am for my own car (although for my wife & kids' >cars, I'd tend to be more conservative than I am on my own vehicles).
Along the same vein, glass and metal shards are problematic due to their >shape, where the question would be at what point is the slice too big.
There is also the case of multiple repairs in a tire, or a repair that is
too close to a pre-existing repair, which tire shops must have rules on.
And of course, there might be age-of-tire restrictions (anything over 3 >years, for example) or wear-bar restrictions or cracks in the sidewall.
Given that a flat tire is already, by definition, a "used tire", I'm sure >some of these factors can easily weight in on a portion of tires out there.
If that portion is 1/4 of all the tires will fail, that sounds reasonable.
They sell for maybe 70 or 100 dollars simple metal lever machines to
break the bead and remove a tire from a rim, but tire beads are a lot
stiffer than they were in the 1930's, you'll be worn out maybe even
before you've finished one tire, and you'll never see a tire shop using
a manual version.
The pneumatic versions are as big as a short washing
machine and cost, I'm sure, 1000 dollars or more.
Plus you need a good source of compressed air.
Losing a tire at speed is quite an exciting adventure which
I hope you never experience and that makes tire repair guys
err on the conservative side of evaluation.
Yes, for sure**
Everyone here keeps calling them plugs but there is a difference between plugs and strings and strings have replaced plugs. Looking to see if
the web agrees with me I found https://knowhow.napaonline.com/how-to-use-a-tire-plug-kit-the-right-way/
How to use a tire PLUG the right way, but when you look at the picture, they're using a string, not a plug. And this is a NAPA url!! The
autoparts chain!! How come they don't know what they are called.
The word "string" is nowhere in the article!! But plug means something different. They were rubber, cylindrical, harder to put in, sometimes
they ripped in half when you were trying to stuff them in a small hole,
and they had to be coated by the user by what seemed like rubber cement.
They started selling strings maybe 30 years ago and maybe too many
people are too young to remmeber the distinction.
This one calls them strings: https://www.amazon.com/Slime-2040-A-Tire-Plug-Kit/dp/B000ET9SAA/
**And you're right about high-speed blowouts, adventurous to say the
least, but I still like to tell this story. I had driven all day so I
asked a friend to drive when we went out for another hour, and we took
my car, a full-size Catalina. She owned a VW bug and when we got back
to her apartment, she drove head in and rammed the curb with my right
front tire. The next morning, I'm passing a semi at 65mph and I hear
a bang. It blew out where she hit the curb. I slowed down and pulled
over, but the car itself never missed a beat. I was amazed and I don't expect such good luck again.
Mighty Wannabe wrote:
What does WD-40 do that Jesus' own miracle water doesn't do?
On Apr 30, 2023, ?? Mighty Wannabe ? wrote
(in article<news:mNw3M.1004828$S2l4.682037@fx12.ams1>):
If the tire changing machine at HF costs $100 then it pays for itself the >>> first time you need to replace 4 tires on your vehicle (at $25 per tire). >>>
The ability to repair your tires at home is just an added convenience.
I love to fix many different things at home, but I have an aversion to
prying open car tires myself, especially when it is a lot of work, and
not expensive to pay others to do it.
My wife uses that exact same excuse on me all the time. :->
If someone doesn't want to do something, there are always excuses for why.
I watched the videos. Doesn't look all that hard.
Of course, youtube videos only show the tires that worked out well.
But some of those videos were of some guy in his back yard, another set of >guys in a garage, and even one was an old Asian guy in his pajamas and >slippers in his driveway. So I doubt it's too hard if you want to do it.
Same thing I tell my wife.
So that might not work on you either. :->
It seems like it's easy to do at home if you like working on your car.
If you don't like working on your car, then nobody can talk you into even
doing an oil change, as the main excuse people use who never did things is >that they don't want to do them (which is a perfectly good excuse).
But this should be the type of group for people who actually like doing >things for themselves instead of paying people to wash behind their ears.
Ron, the humblest guy in town.
I drove about 1000 feet to a
garage and no doubt about it, I ruined the tire.
On Sun, 30 Apr 2023 08:59:50 -0700, Bob F wrote:
Maybe that's why they invented spare tires? It probably was not just to
have a place to store a fixit kit.
Unfortunately, my AWD Sienna does not have a space for a spare tire, so
it just gets stashed in the back if I carry one.
And then they invented donuts... The space for the donut in my Toyota
isn't large enough for a real spare tire.
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> wrote:
On 2023/04/30 2:37 pm, Scott Dorsey wrote:I just read the warning on the can. If you don't believe it you can take
But the real reason why tire guys hate the stuff is that the propellantDo you bullshit on purpose because you want to sound like you know
is explosive and can ignite if a spark occurs.
something? Or do you actually believe the bullshit that you just said?
it up with them.
--scott
=?UTF-8?B?8J+YjiBNaWdodHkgV2FubmFiZSDinIU=?= <@.> writes:
On 4/30/2023 12:41 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:Have you tried lately? Helium is in short supply.
CFC has been replaced by another environmentally friendly refrigerant. Ihttps://patents.justia.com/patent/4501825That patent was from 1984. Chlorofluorocarbons have been banned for
A novel tire sealant and inflator composition comprising a resin, a
latex sealant, alkylene glycol, fibers, an alkanolamine, a foaming
agent, and water. The composition is packaged in aerosol cans with a
chlorofluorocarbon propellant/inflator and used to seal and inflate
punctured tires. The composition is applied to the punctured tire
through the valve stem, and acts to seal the puncture and inflate the
tire sufficiently to support the weight of the car.
thirty years.
am sure there are other nonflammable propellant out there. Helium may be
a good candidate. I can buy a small tank of helium from party-stores to
inflate balloons.
Ask me anything you want about how to do the tire changing job properly.
(I don't know anything about how to trim rosebushes so don't ask me that.)
On 4/30/2023 2:06 AM, rbowman wrote:
On Sun, 30 Apr 2023 00:21:36 -0400, ? Mighty Wannabe ? wrote:
I had a slow leak in one of my tires for many years. Recently I bought a >>> can of tire sealant to pump into the tire. It worked. No more slow leak.They'll love you the next time you buy a tire.
I read the description. It is water based, so it can be washed off with
water before it hardens. I guess it works like some water-based glue. It
will harden to seal the leak but remain liquid inside the tire. It is >recommended by the manufacturer to have the tire professionally patched >within 3 days
(I guess it is the company protecting against lawsuits). I
read many customer comments that it stopped their slow leak. That kind
of slow leak might be in the rim area, nothing to do with nail puncture.
On 2023-04-30, rbowman <bowman@montana.com> wrote:
On Sun, 30 Apr 2023 08:59:50 -0700, Bob F wrote:
Maybe that's why they invented spare tires? It probably was not just to
have a place to store a fixit kit.
Unfortunately, my AWD Sienna does not have a space for a spare tire, so
it just gets stashed in the back if I carry one.
And then they invented donuts... The space for the donut in my Toyota
isn't large enough for a real spare tire.
Real spares on my husband's and my Toyotas. His is on the rear door;
mine is slung underneath, between the rear tires (IIRC). The last
time I had a flat, I called AAA. The guy nearly burst a vein trying
to get the tire out from under the vehicle. What a stupid design.
In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 30 Apr 2023 09:43:51 -0800, RonTheGuy <ron@null.invalid> wrote:
On Apr 30, 2023, ?? Mighty Wannabe ? wrote
(in article<news:mNw3M.1004828$S2l4.682037@fx12.ams1>):
If the tire changing machine at HF costs $100 then it pays for itself the >>>> first time you need to replace 4 tires on your vehicle (at $25 per tire). >>>>
The ability to repair your tires at home is just an added convenience.
I love to fix many different things at home, but I have an aversion to
prying open car tires myself, especially when it is a lot of work, and
not expensive to pay others to do it.
My wife uses that exact same excuse on me all the time. :->
If someone doesn't want to do something, there are always excuses for why.
HOw do you know what is an excuse and what is a reason?
How do you know if a reason is WHY someone doesn't want to do something, versus something thought of later? I plan ahead and my reasons are reasons.
I watched the videos. Doesn't look all that hard.
Of course, youtube videos only show the tires that worked out well.
But some of those videos were of some guy in his back yard, another set of >> guys in a garage, and even one was an old Asian guy in his pajamas and
slippers in his driveway. So I doubt it's too hard if you want to do it.
Same thing I tell my wife.
So that might not work on you either. :->
I'm sure your wife woudn't work out for me.
It seems like it's easy to do at home if you like working on your car.
If you don't like working on your car, then nobody can talk you into even
I love working on my car. I almost wish it would break more often so I
could do more things. When a drug made me drowsy and I hit the curb and
had to replace the half-axle, ball joint, brake disc and one other part,
it was the most fun I had all year.
But I still don't want to remove tires from rims. It's more work than
it's worth and there are shops that have pneumatic tools that go bing,
bam, bom and it's doen. (Although I think $20 is an old price and it's closer to 40 now.)
And I don't want to have to bolt the manual tire machine to the garage
floor.
doing an oil change, as the main excuse people use who never did things is >> that they don't want to do them (which is a perfectly good excuse).
I did an oil change once. I even bought the constainer that lies on its
side and collects the oil. Then I had to go find someone to take the
oil. Once is enough. Now I pay someone who is all set up. It's the
same reasosn I don't make my own nails or aluminum foil.
In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 30 Apr 2023 07:05:35 -0400, ? Mighty Wannabe
? <@.> wrote:
On 4/30/2023 2:06 AM, rbowman wrote:The amazon ad someone posted (you, I think) said it "must be removed".
On Sun, 30 Apr 2023 00:21:36 -0400, ? Mighty Wannabe ? wrote:
I had a slow leak in one of my tires for many years. Recently I bought a >>>> can of tire sealant to pump into the tire. It worked. No more slow leak. >>> They'll love you the next time you buy a tire.
I read the description. It is water based, so it can be washed off with
water before it hardens. I guess it works like some water-based glue. It
will harden to seal the leak but remain liquid inside the tire. It is
recommended by the manufacturer to have the tire professionally patched
within 3 days
=?UTF-8?B?8J+YjiBNaWdodHkgV2FubmFiZSDinIU=?= <@.> writes:
On 4/30/2023 12:41 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
https://patents.justia.com/patent/4501825That patent was from 1984. Chlorofluorocarbons have been banned for
A novel tire sealant and inflator composition comprising a resin, a
latex sealant, alkylene glycol, fibers, an alkanolamine, a foaming
agent, and water. The composition is packaged in aerosol cans with a
chlorofluorocarbon propellant/inflator and used to seal and inflate
punctured tires. The composition is applied to the punctured tire
through the valve stem, and acts to seal the puncture and inflate the
tire sufficiently to support the weight of the car.
thirty years.
CFC has been replaced by another environmentally friendly refrigerant. I
am sure there are other nonflammable propellant out there. Helium may be
a good candidate. I can buy a small tank of helium from party-stores to
inflate balloons.
Have you tried lately? Helium is in short supply.
On 2023-04-30, rbowman <bowman@montana.com> wrote:
On Sun, 30 Apr 2023 08:59:50 -0700, Bob F wrote:
Maybe that's why they invented spare tires? It probably was not just to
have a place to store a fixit kit.
Unfortunately, my AWD Sienna does not have a space for a spare tire, so
it just gets stashed in the back if I carry one.
And then they invented donuts... The space for the donut in my Toyota
isn't large enough for a real spare tire.
Real spares on my husband's and my Toyotas. His is on the rear door;
mine is slung underneath, between the rear tires (IIRC). The last
time I had a flat, I called AAA. The guy nearly burst a vein trying
to get the tire out from under the vehicle. What a stupid design.
In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 30 Apr 2023 21:17:31 GMT, Cindy Hamilton <hamilton@invalid.com> wrote:
On 2023-04-30, rbowman <bowman@montana.com> wrote:My two Toyotas, nearly identical 2000 and 2005 Solaras, only had donuts
On Sun, 30 Apr 2023 08:59:50 -0700, Bob F wrote:Real spares on my husband's and my Toyotas. His is on the rear door;
Maybe that's why they invented spare tires? It probably was not just to >>>> have a place to store a fixit kit.And then they invented donuts... The space for the donut in my Toyota
Unfortunately, my AWD Sienna does not have a space for a spare tire, so >>>> it just gets stashed in the back if I carry one.
isn't large enough for a real spare tire.
but the well, under the trunk floor, was big enough for a full size
spare. So why did they put donuts in it?
mine is slung underneath, between the rear tires (IIRC). The lastWow, I assumed there was some good way to get those out, but if the AAA
time I had a flat, I called AAA. The guy nearly burst a vein trying
to get the tire out from under the vehicle. What a stupid design.
guy didn't know it, maybe it really is stupid.
On 4/30/2023 12:59 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
=?UTF-8?B?8J+YjiBNaWdodHkgV2FubmFiZSDinIU=?= <@.> writes:
On 4/30/2023 12:41 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
https://patents.justia.com/patent/4501825That patent was from 1984. Chlorofluorocarbons have
A novel tire sealant and inflator composition
comprising a resin, a
latex sealant, alkylene glycol, fibers, an
alkanolamine, a foaming
agent, and water. The composition is packaged in
aerosol cans with a
chlorofluorocarbon propellant/inflator and used to seal
and inflate
punctured tires. The composition is applied to the
punctured tire
through the valve stem, and acts to seal the puncture
and inflate the
tire sufficiently to support the weight of the car.
been banned for
thirty years.
CFC has been replaced by another environmentally friendly
refrigerant. I
am sure there are other nonflammable propellant out
there. Helium may be
a good candidate. I can buy a small tank of helium from
party-stores to
inflate balloons.
Have you tried lately? Helium is in short supply.
Helium will probably maximize leakage. Bigger molecules are
probably better.
On 4/30/2023 8:02 PM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 30 Apr 2023 21:17:31 GMT, Cindy Hamilton
<hamilton@invalid.com> wrote:
On 2023-04-30, rbowman <bowman@montana.com> wrote:My two Toyotas, nearly identical 2000 and 2005 Solaras, only had donuts
On Sun, 30 Apr 2023 08:59:50 -0700, Bob F wrote:Real spares on my husband's and my Toyotas.Β His is on the rear door;
Maybe that's why they invented spare tires? It probably was notAnd then they invented donuts...Β The space for the donut in my Toyota >>>> isn't large enough for a real spare tire.
just to
have a place to store a fixit kit.
Unfortunately, my AWD Sienna does not have a space for a spare
tire, so
it just gets stashed in the back if I carry one.
but the well, under the trunk floor, was big enough for a full size
spare.Β So why did they put donuts in it?
mine is slung underneath, between the rear tires (IIRC).Β The lastWow, I assumed there was some good way to get those out, but if the AAA
time I had a flat, I called AAA.Β The guy nearly burst a vein trying
to get the tire out from under the vehicle.Β What a stupid design.
guy didn't know it, maybe it really is stupid.
Maybe that AAA guy was a new hire.
Does the tire changing tool have to be bolted to the floor?
What tool do you have to balance the tires?
Did you ever have problems with getting the balance right?
What is the correct place to put the valve stem?
How long does it take you to remove the old tire and replace and balance
the new?
It takes less time to do it myself than to drive to a shop to get it
done, and it is way cheaper.
On Apr 30, 2023, Bob F wrote
(in article<news:u2mqca$3q7ib$1@dont-email.me>):
It takes less time to do it myself than to drive to a shop to get it
done, and it is way cheaper.
+1
If you count the total time and cost, having someone else do your oil
change will never be better than just doing your own oil changes at home.
Better oil. Quicker change. Better filter. Better gaskets (if any).
Better overall in every way.
If someone has an excuse not to change their own oil, it's just an excuse.
Ron, the humblest guy in town.
On Apr 30, 2023, Ed P wrote
(in article<news:xFG3M.1671473$MVg8.457195@fx12.iad>):
Why is the oil and filter better if it is the same brand? What exactly,
is the difference between the dealer Mobile 1 and my Mobile 1?
As for quicker, depends. I pass a reputable shop a few times a week and
they are faster than I am. If I drove over just for that reason yes.
Please explain your illusion.
As for excuses, at my age I no longer crawl under cars.
If you don't know that you'll be putting in better oil at a lower price
than the shop can do it at, then nothing anyone says will enter your mind.
Ron, the humblest guy in town.
Real spares on my husband's and my Toyotas. His is on the rear door;
mine is slung underneath, between the rear tires (IIRC). The last time
I had a flat, I called AAA. The guy nearly burst a vein trying to get
the tire out from under the vehicle. What a stupid design.
Why is the oil and filter better if it is the same brand? What exactly,
is the difference between the dealer Mobile 1 and my Mobile 1?
As for quicker, depends. I pass a reputable shop a few times a week and
they are faster than I am. If I drove over just for that reason yes.
Please explain your illusion.
As for excuses, at my age I no longer crawl under cars.
Lift the lower bead into the drop center & lift the top bead to the rim.
Fill with air until it pops. If necessary, grab the bazooka (1 out of
10).
On Sun, 30 Apr 2023 15:19:32 -0700, Bob F wrote:
Does the tire changing tool have to be bolted to the floor?
Absolutely. I drilled holes in a cement walkway out back.
The original plan was to use bolts so that I could remove it at will.
I never removed it and the red has weathered to a nice rosebush pink.
What tool do you have to balance the tires?
The Egyptians built the pyramids with a plumb bob I'm told.
And maybe even bubble levels for all I know.
HF sells a lovely aluminum and steel tire sized bubble level.
HF sells only the stick on weights though.
So you have to buy clamp on weights online.
Did you ever have problems with getting the balance right?
Never. Balance isn't a problem because you can cut the weights to size.
You lay them on the rim while you're balancing and move them around like checkers until you get just the right amount of weight in the right spots.
What is the correct place to put the valve stem?
That's the sixty-four dollar question. Every brand can be different.
Here is the instruction for mounting for my Yokohama tires. https://www.yokohamatire.com/tires-101/maintenance-care-1/mounting-your-tires
But most brands follow the same pattern but you should check to make sure. Note there are match mounting marks on a new rim but usually they're gone.
How long does it take you to remove the old tire and replace and balance
the new?
I never did it in a rush. I bring a coffee if it's in the morning.
And a beer if it's later in the afternoon. I take my sweet time doing it.
However, if you were in a race, it shouldn't take you appreciably longer or shorter than it takes a tire shop to do it since you do the same steps.
You chock & lift the vehicle and place safety jack stands where needed. Remove the wheel & tire assembly & remove the schrader valve inside pin. Lubricate heavily with a spray bottle with a dab of dish soap in it.
Break the 1st bead and then flip the tire & break the 2nd bead.
Put the tire on the tire mounting stand & remove the 3rd (top) bead.
Lift the tire into the drop center & remove the 4th (bottom) bead.
Lift the tire off the stand and remove the tire valve from the rim.
Inspect the rim and clean it up if needed & look for match mount marks. Usually they're long gone so just mount the red/yellow dots to the stem.
Pop a new stem in (the better ones are all metal and as long as you like). Remove the schrader valve from the new valve stem.
Throw the new tire onto the rim & lubricate lightly with a spray bottle.
Set the 5th (bottom) bead by running the tire iron in a 360 degree circle. Set the 6th (top) bead the same way - but you might need extra tire irons. Attach a wide-open air gun rubberbanded open to the valve stem threads.
Lift the lower bead into the drop center & lift the top bead to the rim.
Fill with air until it pops. If necessary, grab the bazooka (1 out of 10). Once it pops into place, replace the valve stem schrader valve inside pin. Fill to 60 psi and spray soapy water checking the uniformity of the set.
Drop it back to 30 psi (or whatever you want) and remove wheel from stand. Check that the static tire balancer bubble dot is in the center circle.
Put the tire & wheel assembly gently on the static tire balancer.
Place weights along the rim as needed & when satisfied, glue or crimp on. Flip the wheel and do the other side but usually it's already balanced.
Place the wheel & tire on the vehicle & torque to the manufacturer specs. Take it for a test drive. You're not going to get vibration.
If you get vibration (you won't), then take it to Costco who will charge
five dollars to balance any wheel/tire even one that they didn't do.
Not counting the test drive, it will take you as long as you want it to.
The only hard beads are the 1st bead and the 6th bead. The rest are easy.
Maybe a half hour if that's all you do but normally I take my time while I have the wheels off. Normally I rotate them. And I check the brakes.
It's pretty safe that if that's all you did, and hour would be plenty.
That's not counting the shower you'll want to take after blowing all the brake dust out and washing your clothes and putting all the tools away.
Anybody, even the first time they do it, can do it in an hour, although you'll find in the beginning you need to make some special tools that make your life easier (like a way to blow air into the tire to set the bead).
You need to know basic anatomy like where is the drop center for your rim. https://www.liveabout.com/wheel-anatomy-201-beads-and-flanges-3234479
And you'll find a few specialized cheap hand tools make the job easier.
After a while, you put a kit together with all the necessary tools in it.
On 4/30/2023 11:36 PM, RonTheGuy wrote:
On Apr 30, 2023, Bob F wrote
(in article<news:u2mqca$3q7ib$1@dont-email.me>):
It takes less time to do it myself than to drive to a shop to get it
done, and it is way cheaper.
+1
If you count the total time and cost, having someone else do your oil
change will never be better than just doing your own oil changes at home.
Better oil. Quicker change. Better filter. Better gaskets (if any).
Better overall in every way.
If someone has an excuse not to change their own oil, it's just an
excuse.
Ron, the humblest guy in town.
Why is the oil and filter better if it is the same brand?Β What exactly,
is the difference between the dealer Mobile 1 and my Mobile 1?
As for quicker, depends.Β I pass a reputable shop a few times a week and they are faster than I am.Β If I drove over just for that reason yes.
Please explain your illusion.
As for excuses, at my age I no longer crawl under cars.
Third hit is also $112 but that's before any promotional deals. https://simpletire.com/brands/cooper-tires/cs5-grand-touring
The hand powered tire changer probably needs to be bolted to the floor
to work well.
What tool do you have to balance the tires? Did you ever have problems
with getting the balance right?
One 16g CO2 cartridge may not be enough to fill a flat car or truck
tire. Topping up, maybe.
On Sun, 30 Apr 2023 13:54:15 -0400, π Mighty Wannabe β wrote:
One 16g CO2 cartridge may not be enough to fill a flat car or truckThe 12g version won't fully inflate a mountain bike tire. otoh, 12g Daisy cartridges are a lot easier to find and cheaper than the 16g version.
tire. Topping up, maybe.
In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 30 Apr 2023 21:17:31 GMT, Cindy Hamilton
<hamilton@invalid.com> wrote:
On 2023-04-30, rbowman <bowman@montana.com> wrote:
On Sun, 30 Apr 2023 08:59:50 -0700, Bob F wrote:
Maybe that's why they invented spare tires? It probably was not just to >>>> have a place to store a fixit kit.
Unfortunately, my AWD Sienna does not have a space for a spare tire, so >>>> it just gets stashed in the back if I carry one.
And then they invented donuts... The space for the donut in my Toyota
isn't large enough for a real spare tire.
Real spares on my husband's and my Toyotas. His is on the rear door;
My two Toyotas, nearly identical 2000 and 2005 Solaras, only had donuts
but the well, under the trunk floor, was big enough for a full size
spare. So why did they put donuts in it?
mine is slung underneath, between the rear tires (IIRC). The last
time I had a flat, I called AAA. The guy nearly burst a vein trying
to get the tire out from under the vehicle. What a stupid design.
Wow, I assumed there was some good way to get those out, but if the AAA
guy didn't know it, maybe it really is stupid.
On 4/30/2023 2:17 PM, Cindy Hamilton wrote:
On 2023-04-30, rbowman <bowman@montana.com> wrote:
On Sun, 30 Apr 2023 08:59:50 -0700, Bob F wrote:
Maybe that's why they invented spare tires? It probably was not just to >>>> have a place to store a fixit kit.
Unfortunately, my AWD Sienna does not have a space for a spare tire, so >>>> it just gets stashed in the back if I carry one.
And then they invented donuts... The space for the donut in my Toyota
isn't large enough for a real spare tire.
Real spares on my husband's and my Toyotas. His is on the rear door;
mine is slung underneath, between the rear tires (IIRC). The last
time I had a flat, I called AAA. The guy nearly burst a vein trying
to get the tire out from under the vehicle. What a stupid design.
I have read about recalls for the Sienna underneath tire storage recall because of rust.
You say his is on the rear door. I assume this is not a Sienna?
On Apr 30, 2023, Bob F wrote
(in article<news:u2mqca$3q7ib$1@dont-email.me>):
It takes less time to do it myself than to drive to a shop to get it
done, and it is way cheaper.
+1
If you count the total time and cost, having someone else do your oil
change will never be better than just doing your own oil changes at home.
Better oil. Quicker change. Better filter. Better gaskets (if any).
Better overall in every way.
If someone has an excuse not to change their own oil, it's just an excuse.
On Apr 30, 2023, Ed P wrote
(in article<news:xFG3M.1671473$MVg8.457195@fx12.iad>):
Why is the oil and filter better if it is the same brand? What exactly,
is the difference between the dealer Mobile 1 and my Mobile 1?
As for quicker, depends. I pass a reputable shop a few times a week and
they are faster than I am. If I drove over just for that reason yes.
Please explain your illusion.
As for excuses, at my age I no longer crawl under cars.
If you don't know that you'll be putting in better oil at a lower price
than the shop can do it at, then nothing anyone says will enter your mind.
Ron, the humblest guy in town.
On 2023-05-01, RonTheGuy <ron@null.invalid> wrote:
On Apr 30, 2023, Ed P wrote
(in article<news:xFG3M.1671473$MVg8.457195@fx12.iad>):
Why is the oil and filter better if it is the same brand? What exactly, >>> is the difference between the dealer Mobile 1 and my Mobile 1?
As for quicker, depends. I pass a reputable shop a few times a week and >>> they are faster than I am. If I drove over just for that reason yes.
Please explain your illusion.
As for excuses, at my age I no longer crawl under cars.
If you don't know that you'll be putting in better oil at a lower price
than the shop can do it at, then nothing anyone says will enter your mind. >>
Ron, the humblest guy in town.
If you have to tell people you're humble, you're not. Unless you're
being ironic.
As for excuses, at my age I no longer crawl under cars.
At 74, I am a little slower at it at worst.
The ramps simplify it.
Clearly, if you live in a small apartment, storing tools makes things
more difficult.
On 2023-05-01, RonTheGuy <ron@null.invalid> wrote:
On Apr 30, 2023, Bob F wrote
(in article<news:u2mqca$3q7ib$1@dont-email.me>):
It takes less time to do it myself than to drive to a shop to get it
done, and it is way cheaper.
+1
If you count the total time and cost, having someone else do your oil
change will never be better than just doing your own oil changes at home.
Better oil. Quicker change. Better filter. Better gaskets (if any).
Better overall in every way.
If someone has an excuse not to change their own oil, it's just an excuse.
We don't need an excuse. We just don't want to.
My mechanic does other things besides an oil change while he has it.
The hand powered tire changer probably needs to be bolted to the floor
to work well.
Be sort of amusing if it wasn't. Of course that assumes you have a floor
to bolt it to, or space in the garage.
If someone has an excuse not to change their own oil, it's just an excuse.
We don't need an excuse. We just don't want to.
My mechanic does other things besides an oil change while he has it.
Third hit is also $112 but that's before any promotional deals.
https://simpletire.com/brands/cooper-tires/cs5-grand-touring
iirc, that's about what I paid at Tire-Rama -- mounted.
My mechanic does other things besides an oil change while he has it.Last change I did was my '91 Buick Regal.
It was a real PITA to get to the filter.
Not so bad on a real lift, but ramps or jacks, not fun.
Did it twice, never again.
I also get the same exact oil that Ron gets. no better, no worse.
As for quicker, depends. I pass a reputable shop a few times a week and
they are faster than I am. If I drove over just for that reason yes.
On May 01, 2023, Ed P wrote
(in article<news:yTO3M.2608949$9sn9.356325@fx17.iad>):
My mechanic does other things besides an oil change while he has it.Last change I did was my '91 Buick Regal.
When you buy a car, you buy the tools that you need to work on that car.
It was a real PITA to get to the filter.
You jack up the front end, reach up, unscrew the filter. If the filter is hard to get to, you find the right oil filter wrench to make that job easy.
I also get the same exact oil that Ron gets. no better, no worse.
If you say you have to get Mobil 1 then it means you don't know oil.
People who know the least about a product always buy the brand names.
Or they buy the product with the longest warranty.
People who do that always know the least about what it is that they are buying, which is why they buy that way because they don't know how to buy.
On Apr 30, 2023, Bob F wrote
(in article<news:u2nhb7$177f$1@dont-email.me>):
As for excuses, at my age I no longer crawl under cars.
At 74, I am a little slower at it at worst.
I am about the same age and I also find it "less fun" to be lying on the >ground removing an oil filter bolt, but I still do it because of two great >values, the first being you get better quality oil at a lower price, and
the second being the satisfaction that you know the job is done right.
There are other benefits such as the time savings (an oil change is just >about the quickest job that can be done on a car - even vacuuming it takes >longer) and convenience of doing it when you want it done, but the main >reason is better oil at a better price & the satisfaction of doing it.
So are you buying some exotic oil not available at an oil change shop?
I used Mobil 1 as an example, but there are many other brands. Heinz
ketchup is the same no matter what store I buy it from. Oil no different.
Do you have specs comparing your exotic juice to the brand names?
On the other hand, modern cars are so close to the ground it
is impossible to get underneath unless you have a lift or use
jack stands or ramps.
Then there are the idiot engine designers that put the drain plug
on the side of the oil pan instead of in a recess on the bottom,
so the oil shoots out sideways instead of falling straight down
into the catch pan. Chevy, I'm talkin' 'bout you!
On Apr 30, 2023, Bob F wrote
(in article<news:u2nhb7$177f$1@dont-email.me>):
As for excuses, at my age I no longer crawl under cars.
At 74, I am a little slower at it at worst.
I am about the same age and I also find it "less fun" to be lying on the ground removing an oil filter bolt, but I still do it because of two great values, the first being you get better quality oil at a lower price, and
the second being the satisfaction that you know the job is done right.
Lift the lower bead into the drop center & lift the top bead to the rim.
Fill with air until it pops. If necessary, grab the bazooka (1 out of
10).
And don't forget to add the $90 bazooka to your home tire changing
station. It's that 1 in 10 where you need a sledge hammer to break the
bead and a bazooka to seat it that turns it into a 5 hour pain in the ass.
On Sun, 30 Apr 2023 13:54:15 -0400, π Mighty Wannabe β wrote:
One 16g CO2 cartridge may not be enough to fill a flat car or truckThe 12g version won't fully inflate a mountain bike tire. otoh, 12g Daisy cartridges are a lot easier to find and cheaper than the 16g version.
tire. Topping up, maybe.
On 1 May 2023 04:51:26 GMT, rbowman wrote:
You got that right. I didn't know if people would realize what I meant by "grab the bazooka" but you clearly understood what it is, and what is for.Lift the lower bead into the drop center & lift the top bead to the rim. >>> Fill with air until it pops. If necessary, grab the bazooka (1 out ofAnd don't forget to add the $90 bazooka to your home tire changing
10).
station. It's that 1 in 10 where you need a sledge hammer to break the
bead and a bazooka to seat it that turns it into a 5 hour pain in the ass.
Sometimes, it's just so much easier to have the right tools to do the job. You can get away with NOT having it, but then you need at least two people.
You have one person underneath keeping the bottom bead in the drop center. Then you have another person on top wheedling the top bead into the rim.
You must also have air running continuously screwed into the open valve.
It CAN be done without the bazooka (or without the MAF kaboom trick), but it's EASIER to do with the bazooka on those problem tires if you're alone.
It's the LT tires, with that high profile stiff sidewall that are the
hardest to get the initial seal in the drop center that need the blast.
If you already own some tools, then the cost will be lower, of course.
For most people the "extra" tools will cost about $100 per tire ($400).
HF sells everything you need though, which, using rounded numbers costs you $100 tire mounter (throw away its bead breaker which just gets in the way) $100 bead breaker (you have to extend it for the larger diameter wheels)
$100 bazooka (if you work alone, you'll need it on some brands of tires)
$100 static balancer (this tool works amazingly well even as it's low tech) $100 floor jack (you want it to go as high as you can but 15 inches is ok) $100 jack stands & chocks (height is usually more important than bearing) $200 compressor & hoses & fittings & electrical adapter (mine is 220VAC)
$100 torque wrench (the only time it's needed is at the final cinch'up)
There are minor tools but those are the three major tools that you'll need. Minor tools, offhand, are all around ten bucks so I'll just say that below.
$10 schrader valve removal screwdriver (required)
$10 tire valve removal & replacement tool (more useful for rubber valves)
$10 air gun (you sacrifice one air gun to screw onto the open tire valve)
$20 two long additional tire irons (useful, but not always required)
$10 strong spray bottle (don't use a Windex bottle which always breaks)
$10 vise grips (required because the long tire iron twists in your hands)
$20 pack of wheel weights of various sizes and types (stick on works ok)
$20 plug and patch kit (best to get the combined patchplug type)
$10 wheel weight on/off tool (optional - it just makes you feel better)
$10 assorted curved picks (to remove rocks and glass from between treads)
$10 assorted patch tools (scrapers, pizza wheels, chalk/grease markers)
$20 set of four all metal tire valves (bolt in types are my favorite)
$20 special tool for the BBS wheel covers in some fancy alloy wheels
Let me know if I missed anything as that's just off the cuff from memory.
Obviously there's a serious (about $400) investment in tools that you don't already have and which aren't useful for any other job, while the rest of
the investment will be useful for almost any job you do under the car.
At easy numbers of $25 saved per wheel, it would take 16 tire changes
(which would take a few years) to start making money on the tools bought.
Almost nobody has only one car in the household, but if we assume easy conservative figures of a new set of tires every four years and no flats, that's about 16 years for one car. For a two-car household, that drops in half to 8 years. For a four car household (I don't feel like dividing by 3
in my head) that should take about 4 years to start making money doing it.
There are other advantages and disadvantages, such as the satisfaction of being self sufficient versus the dissatisfaction of having to take a
shower, but there is no case anyone could make against cost as you will always end up making money on your tools given how much it costs to pay people.
The main case people would have for not doing the job is they don't want to do it or they don't have the room for the tools, and those are both valid.
On May 01, 2023, Ed P wrote
(in article<news:OnP3M.2610114$9sn9.2040201@fx17.iad>):
So are you buying some exotic oil not available at an oil change shop?
You really need to learn about what you're talking about.
Costco also sells Mobil 1. It's just not currently on sale.
Besides, people who say you have to buy the brand name almost always, if
not always, know absolutely nothing about the product they're buying.
Clearly you do not.
Do you have any idea who makes most oil that is on the market in the USA?
What makes the oil you use BETTER than what I buy?
How do you break the beads. I tried once, and even driving a car onto a
2x6 laid with the end almost to the outside of the rim would not pop it loose.
You haven't factored in the medical cost if you lose an eye or a limb. Industrial accidents do happen, more often to amateur auto mechanic.
On May 01, 2023, Ed P wrote
(in article<news:DIQ3M.200602$LAYb.134800@fx02.iad>):
What makes the oil you use BETTER than what I buy?
I saw that you focused on the better and not on the cheaper part.
On Mon, 1 May 2023 12:01:45 -0400, ΓΒ Β½ΓΒΈΕ½ Mighty Wannabe Γ’Εβ¦ wrote:
You haven't factored in the medical cost if you lose an eye or a limb.That's the kind of stuff people say when they're desperate for excuses.
Industrial accidents do happen, more often to amateur auto mechanic.
When you get to that stage, you're just making unsupportable excuses.
Why don't you just say you'd rather not work on your own car at home?
Not wanting to work on your car is a valid reason for not doing it.
Being worried about "losing and eye or a limb" is a preposterous excuse.
You're making an assumption of something that isn't likely to happen.
Where the heck are you going to lose an eye or a limb in this process?
Besides, just driving down to the tire shop has inherent risks too.
They're probably about the same in terms of accidents won't likely happen.
But tell me, where do you think you're going to lose an eye or a limb?
(And don't tell me the tire will explode as you have a better chance of having a car accident on your way to and from the tire shop).
There's probably a better chance of the water cooler exploding at the tire job while you're waiting or having a hot cup of coffee spilled in your lap.
On 5/1/2023 10:03 AM, RonTheGuy wrote:
On May 01, 2023, Ed P wrote
(in article<news:OnP3M.2610114$9sn9.2040201@fx17.iad>):
So are you buying some exotic oil not available at an oil change shop?
You really need to learn about what you're talking about.
Costco also sells Mobil 1. It's just not currently on sale.
Besides, people who say you have to buy the brand name almost always, if
not always, know absolutely nothing about the product they're buying.
Clearly you do not.
Do you have any idea who makes most oil that is on the market in the USA?
Clearly you cannot answer a simple question.
What makes the oil you use BETTER than what I buy?
Clearly you cannot answer a simple question.
What makes the oil you use BETTER than what I buy?
Unless you're re-using old oil (common back in the 40's
and 50's when rings sucked and you burned through a
quart a week), all modern oils meet the appropriate
standards and should all be interchangable, regardless
of cost. Synthetics have fewer impurities due to
the more costly refining process, and thus generally
have a higher cost.
On Mon, 1 May 2023 12:01:45 -0400, ΓΒ Β½ΓΒΈΕ½ Mighty Wannabe Γ’Εβ¦ wrote:
You haven't factored in the medical cost if you lose an eye or a limb.
Industrial accidents do happen, more often to amateur auto mechanic.
That's the kind of stuff people say when they're desperate for excuses.
When you get to that stage, you're just making unsupportable excuses.
Why don't you just say you'd rather not work on your own car at home?
Not wanting to work on your car is a valid reason for not doing it.
Being worried about "losing and eye or a limb" is a preposterous excuse.
You're making an assumption of something that isn't likely to happen.
Where the heck are you going to lose an eye or a limb in this process?
Besides, just driving down to the tire shop has inherent risks too.
They're probably about the same in terms of accidents won't likely happen.
But tell me, where do you think you're going to lose an eye or a limb?
(And don't tell me the tire will explode as you have a better chance of having a car accident on your way to and from the tire shop).
There's probably a better chance of the water cooler exploding at the tire job while you're waiting or having a hot cup of coffee spilled in your lap.
On 5/1/2023 11:05 AM, Michael wrote:
On 1 May 2023 04:51:26 GMT, rbowman wrote:
"grab the bazooka" but you clearly understood what it is, and what is for. >>Lift the lower bead into the drop center & lift the top bead to the rim. >>>> Fill with air until it pops. If necessary, grab the bazooka (1 out ofAnd don't forget to add the $90 bazooka to your home tire changing
10).
station. It's that 1 in 10 where you need a sledge hammer to break the
bead and a bazooka to seat it that turns it into a 5 hour pain in the ass. >> You got that right. I didn't know if people would realize what I meant by
Sometimes, it's just so much easier to have the right tools to do the job. >> You can get away with NOT having it, but then you need at least two people. >>
You have one person underneath keeping the bottom bead in the drop center. >> Then you have another person on top wheedling the top bead into the rim.
You must also have air running continuously screwed into the open valve.
It CAN be done without the bazooka (or without the MAF kaboom trick), but
it's EASIER to do with the bazooka on those problem tires if you're alone. >>
It's the LT tires, with that high profile stiff sidewall that are the
hardest to get the initial seal in the drop center that need the blast.
If you already own some tools, then the cost will be lower, of course.
For most people the "extra" tools will cost about $100 per tire ($400).
HF sells everything you need though, which, using rounded numbers costs you >> $100 tire mounter (throw away its bead breaker which just gets in the way) >> $100 bead breaker (you have to extend it for the larger diameter wheels)
$100 bazooka (if you work alone, you'll need it on some brands of tires)
$100 static balancer (this tool works amazingly well even as it's low tech) >> $100 floor jack (you want it to go as high as you can but 15 inches is ok) >> $100 jack stands & chocks (height is usually more important than bearing)
$200 compressor & hoses & fittings & electrical adapter (mine is 220VAC)
$100 torque wrench (the only time it's needed is at the final cinch'up)
There are minor tools but those are the three major tools that you'll need. >> Minor tools, offhand, are all around ten bucks so I'll just say that below. >>
$10 schrader valve removal screwdriver (required)
$10 tire valve removal & replacement tool (more useful for rubber valves)
$10 air gun (you sacrifice one air gun to screw onto the open tire valve)
$20 two long additional tire irons (useful, but not always required)
$10 strong spray bottle (don't use a Windex bottle which always breaks)
$10 vise grips (required because the long tire iron twists in your hands)
$20 pack of wheel weights of various sizes and types (stick on works ok)
$20 plug and patch kit (best to get the combined patchplug type)
$10 wheel weight on/off tool (optional - it just makes you feel better)
$10 assorted curved picks (to remove rocks and glass from between treads)
$10 assorted patch tools (scrapers, pizza wheels, chalk/grease markers)
$20 set of four all metal tire valves (bolt in types are my favorite)
$20 special tool for the BBS wheel covers in some fancy alloy wheels
Let me know if I missed anything as that's just off the cuff from memory.
Obviously there's a serious (about $400) investment in tools that you don't >> already have and which aren't useful for any other job, while the rest of
the investment will be useful for almost any job you do under the car.
At easy numbers of $25 saved per wheel, it would take 16 tire changes
(which would take a few years) to start making money on the tools bought.
Almost nobody has only one car in the household, but if we assume easy
conservative figures of a new set of tires every four years and no flats,
that's about 16 years for one car. For a two-car household, that drops in
half to 8 years. For a four car household (I don't feel like dividing by 3 >> in my head) that should take about 4 years to start making money doing it. >>
There are other advantages and disadvantages, such as the satisfaction of
being self sufficient versus the dissatisfaction of having to take a
shower, but there is no case anyone could make against cost as you will
always end up making money on your tools given how much it costs to pay
people.
The main case people would have for not doing the job is they don't want to >> do it or they don't have the room for the tools, and those are both valid.
You haven't factored in the medical cost if you lose an eye or a limb. >Industrial accidents do happen, more often to amateur auto mechanic.
What makes the oil you use BETTER than what I buy?
I saw that you focused on the better and not on the cheaper part.
Not everybody cares about cheaper. I rarely buy anything that's
low-bidder, from food to tools to contractors.
On May 01, 2023, Cindy Hamilton wrote
(in article<news:g4S3M.1691024$gGD7.841459@fx11.iad>):
What makes the oil you use BETTER than what I buy?
I saw that you focused on the better and not on the cheaper part.
Not everybody cares about cheaper. I rarely buy anything that's
low-bidder, from food to tools to contractors.
There is nothing wrong with making smart decisions based on understanding what the product or service is that you are paying your money for to get.
But the only people who say better and/or cheaper is no good for them are people like you, who almost always, in my experience, don't understand a single thing about that product or service which they are purchasing.
People like you are think there is only one quality metric. Price
They buy by price BECAUSE they don't understand what it is they're buying.
And there is nothing wrong with that.
What's wrong is thinking that those who buy by UNDERSTANDING what they're buying are somehow wrong. They're not. They know the product rather well.
Ron, the humblest guy in town.
On 5/1/2023 4:36 AM, Cindy Hamilton wrote:
On 2023-05-01, RonTheGuy <ron@null.invalid> wrote:Last change I did was my '91 Buick Regal. It was a real PITA to get to
On Apr 30, 2023, Bob F wroteWe don't need an excuse. We just don't want to.
(in article<news:u2mqca$3q7ib$1@dont-email.me>):
It takes less time to do it myself than to drive to a shop to get it
done, and it is way cheaper.
+1
If you count the total time and cost, having someone else do your oil
change will never be better than just doing your own oil changes at home. >>>
Better oil. Quicker change. Better filter. Better gaskets (if any).
Better overall in every way.
If someone has an excuse not to change their own oil, it's just an excuse. >>
My mechanic does other things besides an oil change while he has it.
the filter. Not so bad on a real lift, but ramps or jacks, not fun.
Did it twice, never again.
I also get the same exact oil that Ron gets. no better, no worse.
In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 1 May 2023 09:10:54 -0400, Ed P
<esp@snet.xxx> wrote:
On 5/1/2023 4:36 AM, Cindy Hamilton wrote:
On 2023-05-01, RonTheGuy <ron@null.invalid> wrote:Last change I did was my '91 Buick Regal. It was a real PITA to get to
On Apr 30, 2023, Bob F wroteWe don't need an excuse. We just don't want to.
(in article<news:u2mqca$3q7ib$1@dont-email.me>):
It takes less time to do it myself than to drive to a shop to get it >>>>> done, and it is way cheaper.
+1
If you count the total time and cost, having someone else do your oil
change will never be better than just doing your own oil changes at home. >>>>
Better oil. Quicker change. Better filter. Better gaskets (if any).
Better overall in every way.
If someone has an excuse not to change their own oil, it's just an excuse. >>>
My mechanic does other things besides an oil change while he has it.
the filter. Not so bad on a real lift, but ramps or jacks, not fun.
Did it twice, never again.
I think Ron wrote that you can get a real lift at Harbor Freight for
cheap. It's hydraulic but not electic. It comes wth a hand pump. Easy >Peasy.
On Mon, 1 May 2023 03:17:10 -0400, π Mighty Wannabe β wrote:
I cannot find 12g "threaded" CO2 cartridge on Amazon.Okay, I'll spell it out. The version of CO2 cartridges that hold 12g. They are not threaded.
Do you have concrete outside anywhere you can impact drill a hole in for those lead things you pound into the hole and then you can screw in a
bolt?
I cannot find 12g "threaded" CO2 cartridge on Amazon.
The action is simple. It doesn't change. You just repeat it over & over. Until it works.
$10 schrader valve removal screwdriver (required)
As for quicker, depends. I pass a reputable shop a few times a week and
they are faster than I am. If I drove over just for that reason yes.
As for excuses, at my age I no longer crawl under cars.
On the other hand, modern cars are so close to the ground it is
impossible to get underneath unless you have a lift or use jack stands
or ramps.
Also you can find less expensive tires with better specs if you know how
to buy tires, but most people don't know how to buy tires so they buy
what was already on the car as that's the only tire they know anything
about.
Last change I did was my '91 Buick Regal. It was a real PITA to get to
the filter. Not so bad on a real lift, but ramps or jacks, not fun. Did
it twice, never again.
For example, you can buy "diesel" engine oil, which is GREAT in terms of
wear protection, but it will kill your cat.
You really need to learn about what you're talking about. Costco also
sells Mobil 1. It's just not currently on sale.
On 5/1/2023 4:56 PM, rbowman wrote:
On Mon, 1 May 2023 03:17:10 -0400, Γ°ΕΈΛΕ½ Mighty Wannabe Γ’Εβ¦
wrote:
I cannot find 12g "threaded" CO2 cartridge on Amazon.Okay, I'll spell it out. The version of CO2 cartridges
that hold 12g. They
are not threaded.
Then the whole contraption will be bulky like the handle of
a handgun.
On Mon, 1 May 2023 03:17:10 -0400, π Mighty Wannabe β wrote:
I cannot find 12g "threaded" CO2 cartridge on Amazon.
Okay, I'll spell it out. The version of CO2 cartridges that hold 12g. They are not threaded.
The action is simple. It doesn't change. You just repeat it over & over.
Until it works.
Or you get out the sledge hammer.
$10 schrader valve removal screwdriver (required)
https://slime.com/products/core-remover-valve-cap
I tend to use these, particularly on the dirt bike. No hunting for the
core remover tool and like it says it can be cumbersome to get some of the screwdriver types in between the spokes.
Or if you like bling https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/tires-and-wheels/tusk-billet-aluminum- valve-stem-caps-w-core-remover-p
On May 01, 2023, Ed P wrote
(in article<news:yTO3M.2608949$9sn9.356325@fx17.iad>):
My mechanic does other things besides an oil change while he has it.Last change I did was my '91 Buick Regal.
When you buy a car, you buy the tools that you need to work on that car.
It was a real PITA to get to the filter.
You jack up the front end, reach up, unscrew the filter. If the filter is hard to get to, you find the right oil filter wrench to make that job easy.
Not so bad on a real lift, but ramps or jacks, not fun.
We all pine for a lift. Very few (if any) of us own a lift. Too expensive.
Did it twice, never again.
There is nothing wrong with you just saying you don't like the job.
I also get the same exact oil that Ron gets. no better, no worse.
I usually buy the dino juice when it's on sale but you can't get anything
but synthetic nowadays at Costco but this is what is on sale there today. https://daily.slickdeals.net/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/Costco-April-2023-Coupon-Book-8-959x1024.jpeg
Do you have concrete outside anywhere you can impact drill a hole in for
those lead things you pound into the hole and then you can screw in a
bolt?
No. Years ago I build a pad out of pavers for a motorcycle center stand
but that's long gone.
For example, you can buy "diesel" engine oil, which is GREAT in terms of
wear protection, but it will kill your cat.
otoh, on a bike where the engine oil also fills the gear box, Rotella is
just the thing.
On May 01, 2023, rbowman wrote
(in article<news:kbaqopFdqr0U12@mid.individual.net>):
For example, you can buy "diesel" engine oil, which is GREAT in terms of >>> wear protection, but it will kill your cat.
otoh, on a bike where the engine oil also fills the gear box, Rotella is
just the thing.
Like anything, you need to know what it is that you're buying.
Many people, unfortunately, buy only based on advertising.
Or worse, they buy the expensive product thinking price equates to quality.
I get my motor oil in the five liter jugs at Costco on sale usually.
Or Walmart. Or anywhere. All that matters is the API & SAE designations.
And the API designations, for my weather conditions, don't matter all that much, so it's only the API approvals, and those are almost always the same.
Same with my two strokes, although someone recently told me I shouldn't be using marine specified two-stroke oil - but I can't yet figure out why.
That's a case where I really do not know what it is that I am buying.
Do you know better?
Ron, the humblest guy in town.
You really need to learn about what you're talking about. Costco also
sells Mobil 1. It's just not currently on sale.
I figure Kirkland is about the same stuff. The 5 quart bottles are a bit
of a pain for a car that takes 3.75 quarts.
rbowman wrote:
Thanks for that suggestion. It's nicer conversing with you than trying to shoot down the absurd and arbitrary never ending myriad excuses others are bandying about for why they don't want to work on their cars at home.$10 schrader valve removal screwdriver (required)https://slime.com/products/core-remover-valve-cap
I tend to use these, particularly on the dirt bike. No hunting for the
core remover tool and like it says it can be cumbersome to get some of the >> screwdriver types in between the spokes.
Those caps are nice in that they'll always be there when you need them
as the best tool for the job, sometimes, is the tool that is in your hands.
It doesn't really matter how you remove & replace the core.
Just that you have a tool to remove and replace the core.
A lot of people seem to use this cross type of core replacing tool. https://www.grainger.com/product/HALTEC-Metal-4-Way-Valve-Tool-33W506 https://www.grainger.com/product/WESTWARD-Common-Steel-Valve-Stem-and-2HLE5
Most of the time the valve is blowing air like a banshee while you're twisting on the core so I use the screwdriver type that is shown here. https://www.amazon.ca/Frienda-Removal-Remover-Install-Motorcycle/dp/B096MFMFZ6/
Take for example when you've just managed to set the bead and the air is rushing in. Now it's time to replace the core without the tire deflating.
You get pretty good at screwing in the core with your right hand while you hold the core from blowing away like an artillery shell in the other hand.
You feed the core to the right hand and line it up on the tool and then
while the air is blowing in your face, you push it down & start screwing.
Or if you like blingThose are a good idea, especially for bicycle use as they're convenient. Everyone loves great engineering, and those 'lil blue caps sure are 'purty.
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/tires-and-wheels/tusk-billet-aluminum-
valve-stem-caps-w-core-remover-p
Some tools I don't really need but I would like to have are a tire spreader https://www.amazon.ca/Ken-Tool-31554-Truck-Tire-Spreader/dp/B00063WP68 https://www.walmart.com/ip/Manual-Tire-Spreader/417996946
Which would just make it easier when scraping & patching inside the tire.
And some kind of chickenpox rasp, instead of using the flat hand rasp. https://www.alltiresupply.com/en-ca/collections/tire-repair-tools/products/rema-flared-contour-wheel?variant=21725417669
https://www.alltiresupply.com/en-ca/collections/tire-repair-tools/products/two-cup-rasps-mounted-back-to-back-on-arbor
And sometimes I wonder if it matters had I bought dedicated weight tools https://www.grainger.com/product/KEN-TOOL-Tire-Hammer-18-in-Lg-36P418 https://www.amazon.ca/CK-Auto-Balancing-Weight-Hammer/dp/B075NCCBYV/ https://www.grainger.com/product/KEN-TOOL-Professional-Wheel-Weight-2WFL8
But a regular pair of pliers & hammer works so I can't justify the tool.
Other times, I wonder why they have so many tools, but I forget they're mostly working on truck tires, which are a different type of animal. https://www.alltiresupply.com/en-ca/collections/manual-bead-breakers
But it would be interesting to see how this special hammer is used. https://www.amazon.ca/Ken-Tool-35327-Bead-Breaking-Wedge/dp/B000VHZI8G?
And it would be interesting to see how a "curved" tire iron works in use. https://www.amazon.ca/Core-Tools-CT113-Curved-Tire/dp/B00NIKMWZU/ https://www.amazon.ca/Ken-Tool-Division-Kt33220-Curved-Spoon/dp/B005EB7H8I/
I'm still trying to figure out how a curved bead breaker can possibly work. https://www.amazon.ca/RebarTech-Lifting-Demount-Changer-TB01/dp/B0B877HWJ8/
My last "luxury tool" was the bazooka gift to myself after a stuck tire. Sometimes I need a "stuck tire" to justify, to myself, these luxury tools!
Are you the same?
Better and cheaper rarely travel together.
Why should I buy Kraft
Parmesan cheese when Parmagiano-Reggiano is available?
People like you are think there is only one quality metric. Price
They buy by price BECAUSE they don't understand what it is they're buying.
My husband is a retired engineer, in the 99th percentile of mechanical aptitude. He certainly understands what he's buying. He is so
rarely wrong, I've just gotten into the habit of trusting him, no
matter how outlandish his proposal sounds.
And there is nothing wrong with that.
What's wrong is thinking that those who buy by UNDERSTANDING what they're
buying are somehow wrong. They're not. They know the product rather well.
Ron, the humblest guy in town.
No. You're an arrogant ass.
They have floor jacks, jackstands, transmission jacks, engine hoists
They don't offer a "real" lift, either centerpost or four poster.
But most people are too afraid to step off the dock into the unsteady boat.
which is why I said
previously that you get one tire free for every four tires that you buy).
If you buy 4 and get one free .that that is 5 total for 25 percent savings. If you buy 3 and get the 4th free it is 33 percent
On 5/1/2023 7:46 PM, Michael wrote:
rbowman wrote:
Thanks for that suggestion. It's nicer conversing with you$10 schrader valve removal screwdriver (required)https://slime.com/products/core-remover-valve-cap
I tend to use these, particularly on the dirt bike. No
hunting for the
core remover tool and like it says it can be cumbersome
to get some of the
screwdriver types in between the spokes.
than trying to
shoot down the absurd and arbitrary never ending myriad
excuses others are
bandying about for why they don't want to work on their
cars at home.
Those caps are nice in that they'll always be there when
you need them
as the best tool for the job, sometimes, is the tool that
is in your hands.
It doesn't really matter how you remove & replace the core.
Just that you have a tool to remove and replace the core.
A lot of people seem to use this cross type of core
replacing tool.
https://www.grainger.com/product/HALTEC-Metal-4-Way-Valve-Tool-33W506
https://www.grainger.com/product/WESTWARD-Common-Steel-Valve-Stem-and-2HLE5 >>
Most of the time the valve is blowing air like a banshee
while you're
twisting on the core so I use the screwdriver type that is
shown here.
https://www.amazon.ca/Frienda-Removal-Remover-Install-Motorcycle/dp/B096MFMFZ6/
Take for example when you've just managed to set the bead
and the air is
rushing in. Now it's time to replace the core without the
tire deflating.
Why don't you wait until there is no pressure inside?
You get pretty good at screwing in the core with your
right hand while you
hold the core from blowing away like an artillery shell in
the other hand.
You feed the core to the right hand and line it up on the
tool and then
while the air is blowing in your face, you push it down &
start screwing.
And risk shooting the valve-core into your eyeball?
Or if you like blingThose are a good idea, especially for bicycle use as
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/tires-and-wheels/tusk-billet-aluminum- >>>
valve-stem-caps-w-core-remover-p
they're convenient.
Everyone loves great engineering, and those 'lil blue caps
sure are 'purty.
Some tools I don't really need but I would like to have
are a tire spreader
https://www.amazon.ca/Ken-Tool-31554-Truck-Tire-Spreader/dp/B00063WP68
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Manual-Tire-Spreader/417996946
Which would just make it easier when scraping & patching
inside the tire.
And some kind of chickenpox rasp, instead of using the
flat hand rasp.
https://www.alltiresupply.com/en-ca/collections/tire-repair-tools/products/rema-flared-contour-wheel?variant=21725417669
https://www.alltiresupply.com/en-ca/collections/tire-repair-tools/products/two-cup-rasps-mounted-back-to-back-on-arbor
And sometimes I wonder if it matters had I bought
dedicated weight tools
https://www.grainger.com/product/KEN-TOOL-Tire-Hammer-18-in-Lg-36P418
https://www.amazon.ca/CK-Auto-Balancing-Weight-Hammer/dp/B075NCCBYV/
https://www.grainger.com/product/KEN-TOOL-Professional-Wheel-Weight-2WFL8
But a regular pair of pliers & hammer works so I can't
justify the tool.
Other times, I wonder why they have so many tools, but I
forget they're
mostly working on truck tires, which are a different type
of animal.
https://www.alltiresupply.com/en-ca/collections/manual-bead-breakers
But it would be interesting to see how this special hammer
is used.
https://www.amazon.ca/Ken-Tool-35327-Bead-Breaking-Wedge/dp/B000VHZI8G?
And it would be interesting to see how a "curved" tire
iron works in use.
https://www.amazon.ca/Core-Tools-CT113-Curved-Tire/dp/B00NIKMWZU/
https://www.amazon.ca/Ken-Tool-Division-Kt33220-Curved-Spoon/dp/B005EB7H8I/ >>
I'm still trying to figure out how a curved bead breaker
can possibly work.
https://www.amazon.ca/RebarTech-Lifting-Demount-Changer-TB01/dp/B0B877HWJ8/ >>
My last "luxury tool" was the bazooka gift to myself after
a stuck tire.
Sometimes I need a "stuck tire" to justify, to myself,
these luxury tools!
Are you the same?
"Why don't you wait until there is no pressure inside?"
I definitely wasn't going to buy what was on the car. Toyota used LRR
tires to get the mileage up. I don't have a problem with that except they were worn out in a little over 20,000 miles which I consider unacceptable
on a 2300 pound car. The current one came with Goodyear Assurance tires so I'll see how that goes. The CS5s had good reviews both for tread life and traction.
I'm used to tire buying. When you ride bikes that get 8,000 miles on the
rear if you're lucky you get to try a lot of different tires. With a dual sport in particular you're always looking for that ideal balance of on and off road performance.
Mostly caster because camber can be measured as a
function of the caster with the proper sliding 20 degree protractor plates.
As far as I know, there is no such thing as "Kirkland" in terms of >manufacturing, so they get it from 'someone' and sell it as an off brand.
I simply told you that motor oil is a commodity - price isn't a quality metric for commodities - the quality of the oil is the quality metric.
On May 01, 2023, Scott Lurndal wrote (in article<news:aBT3M.2871698$vBI8.2282792@fx15.iad>):
They have floor jacks, jackstands, transmission jacks, engine hoists
They don't offer a "real" lift, either centerpost or four poster.
I have to agree. A real lift is a few thousand dollars. https://www.babco.ca/lp-car-lifts-for-the-home-garage
Boy oh boy. Which one of us would NOT love to have one of those babies!
On Mon, 1 May 2023 16:42:18 -0800, RonTheGuy wrote:
I simply told you that motor oil is a commodity - price isn't a quality
metric for commodities - the quality of the oil is the quality metric.
Wolf's Head was a decent brand of oil. Then there was Fox Head, which you bought when you were getting 100 miles per quart. I think it was recycled.
I haven't seen dubious crap like that in a long time.
As far as I know, there is no such thing as "Kirkland" in terms of manufacturing, so they get it from 'someone' and sell it as an off
brand.
But gasoline is a commodity.
If it's top tier, it's good enough for me.
I suspect the Kirkland oil is OEMed by Warren. Warren does a lot of the house-brand oils and they will blend anything to meet whatever specs the reseller wants. If you want crap, they'll make it for you... if you want
a high end oil with ZDDP added, they'll make that for you too... whatever
you want they'll make. So it's more a matter of what grade and formulation Costco wants and will pay for than the manufacturer.
Well, the good news is that the radials last a lot longer than the
diagonal bias ply tires used to last when we all started working on our
cars!
That 20K miles seems low though. Almost at the diagonal ply tire wear
rate.
Do you drive squirrelly roadways maybe? Twisting & turning sometimes
scrubs off a lot of the tread on the fronts.
Maybe that's where the suggested sledge hammer is supposed to help out?
They are not big nor unwieldy at all: https://dbyvw4eroffpi.cloudfront.net/product-media/1VJP/1000/1000/Genuine-Innovations-Ultraflate-20G-CO2-Inflator.jpg
Some people prefer that style as the bare steel CO2 cartridge can freeze fingers in use (rapid pressure drop =
rapid temperature drop).
But what's wrong with the driveway? Doesn't anyone have a driveway
anymore?
On 4/30/2023 10:21 AM, John Robertson wrote:
On 2023/04/30 10:53 am, ?????? Mighty Wannabe ? wrote:
CFC has been replaced by another environmentally friendly refrigerant.
I am sure there are other nonflammable propellant out there. Helium
may be a good candidate. I can buy a small tank of helium from
party-stores to inflate balloons.
Speaking of environmentally friendly gases, I refill my sodastream
containers and twenty pound carbon dioxide welding tanks with dry ice.
They make and I bought a gadget that refills the sodastream containers from >> the welding tanks (it's just a high pressure hose, valves, and a gauge).
I wonder if they make a gadget like that for filling up tires once?
It wouldn't have to be carbon dioxide. It could be any non-flammable gas.
The pressure of carbon dioxide varies according to temperature, but even
nominally at around 850 psi, it would need to be regulated down to
twentieth of that for a tire, but I wonder if they make a gadget for that?
They call it a regulator.
On May 01, 2023, Cindy Hamilton wrote
(in article<news:9GS3M.642584$PXw7.310660@fx45.iad>):
Better and cheaper rarely travel together.
When it comes to working on your own vehicle, they do.
Why should I buy Kraft
Parmesan cheese when Parmagiano-Reggiano is available?
Oil is a commodity fluid, much like whole milk certainly is.
Which whole milk do you buy?
What's the difference between the other whole milks out the there?
People like you are think there is only one quality metric. PriceMy husband is a retired engineer, in the 99th percentile of mechanical
They buy by price BECAUSE they don't understand what it is they're buying. >>
aptitude. He certainly understands what he's buying. He is so
rarely wrong, I've just gotten into the habit of trusting him, no
matter how outlandish his proposal sounds.
If he's the one saying that the only metric of quality is price, then put
him here instead of you speaking for him & I'll tell him what I told you.
And there is nothing wrong with that.
What's wrong is thinking that those who buy by UNDERSTANDING what they're >>> buying are somehow wrong. They're not. They know the product rather well. >>>
Ron, the humblest guy in town.
No. You're an arrogant ass.
I'd rather converse with rbowman who is actually trying to say something. It's you who is arrogant. You said price is the only quality metric.
I simply told you that motor oil is a commodity - price isn't a quality metric for commodities - the quality of the oil is the quality metric.
And that's stamped on every container.
You think I'm arrogant because you feel that the fact you know nothing
about motor oils gives you the right to tell others that they're not commodities, while others here - who do know oils - don't say what you do.
People like you, who never know anything about what they're buying, always deprecate others who do know what it is that they're buying.
If you ask how I know you know nothing about motor oils, it's not only because you haven't mentioned a single quality metric about oils, but also because you equated price to quality which is always the mark of someone
who knows nothing about what it is that they're buying.
People who know nothing of what they're buying, are the ones who buy by
price because they inherently feel, instinctively, that price equates to quality. It might. It might not. It usually has nothing to do with quality.
It has more to do with advertising than anything else given oil is a commodity.
BTW, there's nothing wrong with you not knowing how to buy motor oils.
What's wrong is you telling others how they should buy motor oils.
Nobody said you can't buy by price alone and not by quality.
You're the one who said not to buy by quality but to buy by price.
On 2023/04/30 10:53 am, οΏ½οΏ½οΏ½οΏ½οΏ½οΏ½ Mighty Wannabe β wrote:
CFC has been replaced by another environmentally friendly
refrigerant. I am sure there are other nonflammable propellant out
there. Helium may be a good candidate. I can buy a small tank of
helium from party-stores to inflate balloons.
Speaking of environmentally friendly gases, I refill my sodastream
containers and twenty pound carbon dioxide welding tanks with dry ice.
They make and I bought a gadget that refills the sodastream containers
from
the welding tanks (it's just a high pressure hose, valves, and a gauge).
I wonder if they make a gadget like that for filling up tires once?
It wouldn't have to be carbon dioxide. It could be any non-flammable gas.
The pressure of carbon dioxide varies according to temperature, but even nominally at around 850 psi, it would need to be regulated down to
twentieth of that for a tire, but I wonder if they make a gadget for
that?
On May 01, 2023, rbowman wrote
(in article<news:kbbdchFh3c2U2@mid.individual.net>):
The only relationship to quality is whatever is important about the gas. https://www.sbxl.com/is-costco-gas-good/
On 2023-05-02, RonTheGuy <ron@null.invalid> wrote:
On May 01, 2023, Cindy Hamilton wrote
(in article<news:9GS3M.642584$PXw7.310660@fx45.iad>):
Better and cheaper rarely travel together.
When it comes to working on your own vehicle, they do.
Why should I buy Kraft
Parmesan cheese when Parmagiano-Reggiano is available?
Oil is a commodity fluid, much like whole milk certainly is.
Which whole milk do you buy?
The store brand at my grocery. In addition to being the least
expensive, it tastes the best. Other brands (including the store
brands at other grocery stores) sometimes have off flavor.
What's the difference between the other whole milks out the there?
People like you are think there is only one quality metric. PriceMy husband is a retired engineer, in the 99th percentile of mechanical
They buy by price BECAUSE they don't understand what it is they're buying. >>>
aptitude. He certainly understands what he's buying. He is so
rarely wrong, I've just gotten into the habit of trusting him, no
matter how outlandish his proposal sounds.
If he's the one saying that the only metric of quality is price, then put
him here instead of you speaking for him & I'll tell him what I told you.
And there is nothing wrong with that.
What's wrong is thinking that those who buy by UNDERSTANDING what they're >>>> buying are somehow wrong. They're not. They know the product rather well. >>>>
Ron, the humblest guy in town.
No. You're an arrogant ass.
I'd rather converse with rbowman who is actually trying to say something.
It's you who is arrogant. You said price is the only quality metric.
No. I said price and quality don't always go together. Sometimes the
most expensive thing is optimal. Sometimes the least expensive thing
is optimal. In my experience, it's usually the one in the middle.
You jumped to the conclusion that I always buy the most expensive thing.
Hope you had a nice trip.
I simply told you that motor oil is a commodity - price isn't a quality
metric for commodities - the quality of the oil is the quality metric.
And that's stamped on every container.
You think I'm arrogant because you feel that the fact you know nothing
about motor oils gives you the right to tell others that they're not
commodities, while others here - who do know oils - don't say what you do.
No, I think you're arrogant because you're arrogant. You have an
inflated opinion of your intelligence.
People like you, who never know anything about what they're buying, always >> deprecate others who do know what it is that they're buying.
Ah, people like me. I'm glad you know me so well. Drop by sometime,
and we'll have a cup of tea together.
If you ask how I know you know nothing about motor oils, it's not only
because you haven't mentioned a single quality metric about oils, but also >> because you equated price to quality which is always the mark of someone
who knows nothing about what it is that they're buying.
People who know nothing of what they're buying, are the ones who buy by
price because they inherently feel, instinctively, that price equates to
quality. It might. It might not. It usually has nothing to do with quality. >>
It has more to do with advertising than anything else given oil is a
commodity.
BTW, there's nothing wrong with you not knowing how to buy motor oils.
What's wrong is you telling others how they should buy motor oils.
Please quote me where I told anyone how to buy motor oils.
Nobody said you can't buy by price alone and not by quality.
You're the one who said not to buy by quality but to buy by price.
No, I didn't. Read very, very carefully. Sound out the words if
you need to.
While I don't disagree with the premise that 'gas is gas regardless
of retailer', that article is completely useless, when it starts
quoting 'many users of Reddit' as a source.
Oil is a commodity fluid, much like whole milk certainly is.
Which whole milk do you buy?
The store brand at my grocery. In addition to being the least
expensive, it tastes the best. Other brands (including the store
brands at other grocery stores) sometimes have off flavor.
No. I said price and quality don't always go together.
Sometimes the most expensive thing is optimal. Sometimes the least expensive thing
is optimal. In my experience, it's usually the one in the middle.
You jumped to the conclusion that I always buy the most expensive thing.
Hope you had a nice trip.
No, I think you're arrogant because you're arrogant. You have an
inflated opinion of your intelligence.
People like you, who never know anything about what they're buying, always >> deprecate others who do know what it is that they're buying.
Ah, people like me. I'm glad you know me so well. Drop by sometime,
and we'll have a cup of tea together.
But what's wrong with the driveway? Doesn't anyone have a driveway
anymore?
Yes, and it's gravel...
Maybe that's where the suggested sledge hammer is supposed to help out?
I knew a guy was very good at changing big truck tires and that was his
tool of choice. Of course if you're a klutz you might destroy the rim. A splitting wedge and a single jack works too.
I don't yet understand how the hammer is supposed to work since you
can't hammer on the sidewall, can you? And there's no way to hit the
bead, is there? It would be nice to see a description of how hammers
work on beads.
While I don't disagree with the premise that 'gas is gas regardless of retailer', that article is completely useless, when it starts quoting
'many users of Reddit' as a source.
n.b. I buy my gas from costco.
On May 01, 2023, rbowman wrote (in article<news:kbbfb3Fh3c2U5@mid.individual.net>):
But what's wrong with the driveway? Doesn't anyone have a driveway
anymore?
Yes, and it's gravel...
You're making this hard on me! :->
What's wrong with temporarily bolting it to the garage floor?
Doesn't anyone have a cement-floored garage anymore?
On Tue, 2 May 2023 07:47:40 -0800, RonTheGuy wrote:
On May 01, 2023, rbowman wrote (in
article<news:kbbfb3Fh3c2U5@mid.individual.net>):
But what's wrong with the driveway? Doesn't anyone have a driveway
anymore?
Yes, and it's gravel...
You're making this hard on me! :->
What's wrong with temporarily bolting it to the garage floor?
Doesn't anyone have a cement-floored garage anymore?
I'll say this very slowly. I do not have a garage. I have a gravel
driveway.
On 5/2/2023 12:53 PM, rbowman wrote:
On Tue, 2 May 2023 07:47:40 -0800, RonTheGuy wrote:
On May 01, 2023, rbowman wrote (in
article<news:kbbfb3Fh3c2U5@mid.individual.net>):
But what's wrong with the driveway? Doesn't anyone have a driveway
anymore?
Yes, and it's gravel...
You're making this hard on me! :->
What's wrong with temporarily bolting it to the garage floor?
Doesn't anyone have a cement-floored garage anymore?
I'll say this very slowly. I do not have a garage. I have a gravel
driveway.
What kind of floor do you have in the living room?Β Best to put the
lag bolts into a joist.
On Tue, 02 May 2023 13:42:45 GMT, Scott Lurndal wrote:
While I don't disagree with the premise that 'gas is gas regardless of
retailer', that article is completely useless, when it starts quoting
'many users of Reddit' as a source.
n.b. I buy my gas from costco.
I've never seen the gas at CostCo to be more than a few cents cheaper than >the other stations in town.
I think the ZDDP is "good stuff" for engines but it will kill the cat.
Right?
On 5/2/2023 12:53 PM, rbowman wrote:
On Tue, 2 May 2023 07:47:40 -0800, RonTheGuy wrote:
On May 01, 2023, rbowman wrote (in
article<news:kbbfb3Fh3c2U5@mid.individual.net>):
But what's wrong with the driveway? Doesn't anyone have a driveway
anymore?
Yes, and it's gravel...
You're making this hard on me! :->
What's wrong with temporarily bolting it to the garage floor?
Doesn't anyone have a cement-floored garage anymore?
I'll say this very slowly. I do not have a garage. I have a gravel
driveway.
What kind of floor do you have in the living room? Best to put the lag
bolts into a joist.
On 5/2/2023 1:31 PM, Ed P wrote:
On 5/2/2023 12:53 PM, rbowman wrote:
On Tue, 2 May 2023 07:47:40 -0800, RonTheGuy wrote:
On May 01, 2023, rbowman wrote (in
article<news:kbbfb3Fh3c2U5@mid.individual.net>):
But what's wrong with the driveway? Doesn't anyone have a driveway >>>>>> anymore?
Yes, and it's gravel...
You're making this hard on me! :->
What's wrong with temporarily bolting it to the garage floor?
Doesn't anyone have a cement-floored garage anymore?
I'll say this very slowly. I do not have a garage. I have a gravel
driveway.
What kind of floor do you have in the living room?Β Best to put the
lag bolts into a joist.
Why would anyone want to change a tire in the living room?
rbowman <bowman@montana.com> writes:
On Tue, 02 May 2023 13:42:45 GMT, Scott Lurndal wrote:
While I don't disagree with the premise that 'gas is gas regardless of
retailer', that article is completely useless, when it starts quoting
'many users of Reddit' as a source.
n.b. I buy my gas from costco.
I've never seen the gas at CostCo to be more than a few cents cheaper
than the other stations in town.
Around here it's between 0.30 and 1.00 less expensive compared with the
name brand stations. As much as $20 per fillup saved.
On 5/2/2023 12:53 PM, rbowman wrote:
On Tue, 2 May 2023 07:47:40 -0800, RonTheGuy wrote:
On May 01, 2023, rbowman wrote (in
article<news:kbbfb3Fh3c2U5@mid.individual.net>):
But what's wrong with the driveway? Doesn't anyone have a driveway
anymore?
Yes, and it's gravel...
You're making this hard on me! :->
What's wrong with temporarily bolting it to the garage floor?
Doesn't anyone have a cement-floored garage anymore?
I'll say this very slowly. I do not have a garage. I have a gravel
driveway.
What kind of floor do you have in the living room? Best to put the lag
bolts into a joist.
On 2023-05-02, Ed P <esp@snet.xxx> wrote:
On 5/2/2023 12:53 PM, rbowman wrote:
On Tue, 2 May 2023 07:47:40 -0800, RonTheGuy wrote:
On May 01, 2023, rbowman wrote (in
article<news:kbbfb3Fh3c2U5@mid.individual.net>):
But what's wrong with the driveway? Doesn't anyone have a driveway >>>>>> anymore?
Yes, and it's gravel...
You're making this hard on me! :->
What's wrong with temporarily bolting it to the garage floor?
Doesn't anyone have a cement-floored garage anymore?
I'll say this very slowly. I do not have a garage. I have a gravel
driveway.
What kind of floor do you have in the living room? Best to put the lag
bolts into a joist.
Oh, Ed. Bowman doesn't live in a goat barn. (shakes head sadly)
On 5/2/2023 1:31 PM, Ed P wrote:
On 5/2/2023 12:53 PM, rbowman wrote:
On Tue, 2 May 2023 07:47:40 -0800, RonTheGuy wrote:
On May 01, 2023, rbowman wrote (in
article<news:kbbfb3Fh3c2U5@mid.individual.net>):
But what's wrong with the driveway? Doesn't anyone have a driveway >>>>>> anymore?
Yes, and it's gravel...
You're making this hard on me! :->
What's wrong with temporarily bolting it to the garage floor?
Doesn't anyone have a cement-floored garage anymore?
I'll say this very slowly. I do not have a garage. I have a gravel
driveway.
What kind of floor do you have in the living room?Β Best to put the lag
bolts into a joist.
Why would anyone want to change a tire in the living room?
On May 01, 2023, Scott Lurndal wrote
(in article<news:aBT3M.2871698$vBI8.2282792@fx15.iad>):
They have floor jacks, jackstands, transmission jacks, engine hoists
They don't offer a "real" lift, either centerpost or four poster.
I have to agree. A real lift is a few thousand dollars. >https://www.babco.ca/lp-car-lifts-for-the-home-garage
Boy oh boy. Which one of us would NOT love to have one of those babies!
Ron, the humblest guy in town.
On 3 May 2023 02:10:43 GMT, rbowman wrote:
I just filled up tonight, a little under 8 gallons. CostCo is $3.39,
the other stations are $3.44.Β Whoopee! 40 cents!Β I was there anyway
so it was convenient. I did notice the 'Top Tier' sticker among the
rest of the stuff on the pump.
I usually get a hundred gallons at a time which, at 40 cents, is a savings
of forty dollars per fillup, and at one fillup a month, almost $500/year.
https://i.postimg.cc/MTPm0FN4/costcogas.jpg
You can see my 6 gallon heavy-gauge Nissan steel gas can for marine use in that photo, which was for the rust thread I had asked about on 4/21/2023.
Sticker says Top Tier too! And there's never a long wait. Maybe a couple of cars in front of me, but depending on when I go, it's often nearly empty.
I just filled up tonight, a little under 8 gallons. CostCo is $3.39, the other stations are $3.44. Whoopee! 40 cents! I was there anyway so it
was convenient. I did notice the 'Top Tier' sticker among the rest of the stuff on the pump.
On 3 May 2023 02:10:43 GMT, rbowman wrote:
I just filled up tonight, a little under 8 gallons. CostCo is $3.39, the
other stations are $3.44. Whoopee! 40 cents! I was there anyway so it
was convenient. I did notice the 'Top Tier' sticker among the rest of the
stuff on the pump.
I usually get a hundred gallons at a time which, at 40 cents, is a savings
of forty dollars per fillup, and at one fillup a month, almost $500/year.
https://i.postimg.cc/MTPm0FN4/costcogas.jpg
You can see my 6 gallon heavy-gauge Nissan steel gas can for marine use in that photo, which was for the rust thread I had asked about on 4/21/2023.
Sticker says Top Tier too! And there's never a long wait. Maybe a couple of cars in front of me, but depending on when I go, it's often nearly empty.
On Tue, 02 May 2023 21:12:25 GMT, Cindy Hamilton wrote:
On 2023-05-02, Ed P <esp@snet.xxx> wrote:
On 5/2/2023 12:53 PM, rbowman wrote:
On Tue, 2 May 2023 07:47:40 -0800, RonTheGuy wrote:
On May 01, 2023, rbowman wrote (in
article<news:kbbfb3Fh3c2U5@mid.individual.net>):
But what's wrong with the driveway? Doesn't anyone have a driveway >>>>>>> anymore?
Yes, and it's gravel...
You're making this hard on me! :->
What's wrong with temporarily bolting it to the garage floor?
Doesn't anyone have a cement-floored garage anymore?
I'll say this very slowly. I do not have a garage. I have a gravel
driveway.
What kind of floor do you have in the living room? Best to put the lag
bolts into a joist.
Oh, Ed. Bowman doesn't live in a goat barn. (shakes head sadly)
How do you know? Thanks for the reminder though. A guy down the road has goats and has put up a sign offering goat milk. I've been meaning to stop
and get some on my way home.
On Wed, 3 May 2023 15:26:28 +0900, Minoru Osaka wrote:
On 3 May 2023 02:10:43 GMT, rbowman wrote:
I just filled up tonight, a little under 8 gallons. CostCo is $3.39,
the other stations are $3.44.Β Whoopee! 40 cents!Β I was there anyway
so it was convenient. I did notice the 'Top Tier' sticker among the
rest of the stuff on the pump.
I usually get a hundred gallons at a time which, at 40 cents, is a
savings
of forty dollars per fillup, and at one fillup a month, almost $500/year.
https://i.postimg.cc/MTPm0FN4/costcogas.jpg
You can see my 6 gallon heavy-gauge Nissan steel gas can for marine
use in
that photo, which was for the rust thread I had asked about on 4/21/2023.
Sticker says Top Tier too! And there's never a long wait. Maybe a
couple of
cars in front of me, but depending on when I go, it's often nearly empty.
Boo boo. 4 cents times 100 gallons is only 4 dollars times 12 is only about $50 saved, but the Costco is Top Tier and convenient and nobody gets mad at me while I get a hundred gallons as there are three bays in front of me and four of those three bays to the sides, so I'm not holding up anyone's time.
That $50 saved buys me another few gas cans so I can get more gas per fill.
With the high price of gas ($5.30/gallon on my last fill), it helps a bit. https://i.postimg.cc/XJK7bNKj/costcoprice.jpg
Pump shuts off at $250.00 so it takes a couple of cycles at over $500/fill.
Pump shuts off at $250.00 so it takes a couple of cycles at over $500/fill.
Some of that is in your vehicle. I'm not interested in storing that much
gas in plastic jugs on my property. Unless used in other machines, I'm
not interested in filling my tank from them too.
I hope your storage is far from your neighbors.
Sticker says Top Tier too! And there's never a long wait. Maybe a couple of >> cars in front of me, but depending on when I go, it's often nearly empty.
You might want to look into tossing a few of those plastic cans out,
they look well past their use by date.
On 3 May 2023 02:10:43 GMT, rbowman wrote:
I just filled up tonight, a little under 8 gallons. CostCo is $3.39,
the other stations are $3.44.Β Whoopee! 40 cents!Β I was there anyway
so it was convenient. I did notice the 'Top Tier' sticker among the
rest of the stuff on the pump.
I usually get a hundred gallons at a time which, at 40 cents, is a savings
of forty dollars per fillup, and at one fillup a month, almost $500/year.
https://i.postimg.cc/MTPm0FN4/costcogas.jpg
You can see my 6 gallon heavy-gauge Nissan steel gas can for marine use in that photo, which was for the rust thread I had asked about on 4/21/2023.
Sticker says Top Tier too! And there's never a long wait. Maybe a couple of cars in front of me, but depending on when I go, it's often nearly empty.
Some of that is in your vehicle. I'm not interested in storing that much
gas in plastic jugs on my property. Unless used in other machines, I'm
not interested in filling my tank from them too.
On 3 May 2023 02:10:43 GMT, rbowman wrote:
I just filled up tonight, a little under 8 gallons. CostCo is $3.39,
the other stations are $3.44. Whoopee! 40 cents! I was there anyway
so it was convenient. I did notice the 'Top Tier' sticker among the
rest of the stuff on the pump.
I usually get a hundred gallons at a time which, at 40 cents, is a
savings of forty dollars per fillup, and at one fillup a month, almost $500/year.
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