XPost: alt.home.repair

Failed smog due to crack in 3 inch rubber air duct hose.
$105 https://www.xportautoparts.com/oem-parts/mitsubishi-air-duct-mr571700

It's a corrugated rubber hose about 10 inches long & about 3 inches wide.
Do you think a less expensive box store A/C hose will work?

https://www.amazon.com/QWORK-Extendable-Adjustable-Universal-Flexible/dp/B08P3326BS/r
https://www.amazon.com/Intake-Adjustable-Flexible-Turbo-System/dp/B07QK46N4C
--
Please wear your mask!
Bugs are everywhere. :)
!__!
(@)(@)
\.'||'./
-: :: :-
/'..''..'\

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

XPost: alt.home.repair

Bugsy wrote:

Failed smog due to crack in 3 inch rubber air duct hose.
$105 https://www.xportautoparts.com/oem-parts/mitsubishi-air-duct-mr571700

It's a corrugated rubber hose about 10 inches long & about 3 inches wide.
Do you think a less expensive box store A/C hose will work?

https://www.amazon.com/QWORK-Extendable-Adjustable-Universal-Flexible/dp/B08P3326BS/r
https://www.amazon.com/Intake-Adjustable-Flexible-Turbo-System/dp/B07QK46N4C

If it were me I would get an automotive rated hose.
Think about the heat, vibration, chemicals, etc.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

XPost: alt.home.repair

On 10/27/2022 20:26, Bugsy wrote:

Failed smog due to crack in 3 inch rubber air duct hose.
$105 https://www.xportautoparts.com/oem-parts/mitsubishi-air-duct-mr571700

It's a corrugated rubber hose about 10 inches long& about 3 inches wide.
Do you think a less expensive box store A/C hose will work?

Shucks, I'd just duct-tape it. Then again, I live in wonderful Ohio.
No car inspection, and also, a non-emissions county. Life is great, and
full of $500 PA-state cars that won't pass their inspections.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

XPost: alt.home.repair

In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 27 Oct 2022 19:26:54 -0500, Bugsy <bugsy@zimage.comBUGSY> wrote:

Failed smog due to crack in 3 inch rubber air duct hose.
$105 https://www.xportautoparts.com/oem-parts/mitsubishi-air-duct-mr571700

Well, this one has a built-in right turn but the other two may not be
able to make the turn to the right without first going to the left a
little bit. Do you have room?

The factory part also shows a place for another hose or something at the
bottom left. Do you need that?

It's a corrugated rubber hose about 10 inches long & about 3 inches wide.
Do you think a less expensive box store A/C hose will work?

https://www.amazon.com/QWORK-Extendable-Adjustable-Universal-Flexible/dp/B08P3326BS/r

I don't know what the purpose of the two metal rings is. The factory
part hasn't got them and my hose didn't have or need them. The video
is no help (although at least it's about the part for sale. Some videos
are just about nothing.) This one is too long, 36", and you'd have to
cut it and then you'd have to clamp on the accordion part of the hose.
You coudl not get a leak-free connection. NO GOOD>

https://www.amazon.com/Intake-Adjustable-Flexible-Turbo-System/dp/B07QK46N4C

This one is 13.39 inches. You don't say how long the space is in your
car and the factory part doesn't feel the need to say how long it is.
So you might not have to cut it but otoh, this has no flat section at
the end, even new, so you lose nothing by cutting it. Apparently they
think you can make a air-tight seal, but I don't see how. It gets 6
5-star ratings.


I had 2 engine codes, both for lean mixture, which usually means too
much air getting in the mixture which usually means an air leak. I did
all the things one is supposed to do, ending with making a propane wand
and running the want wherever there might be a leak. No luck. Maybe I
didnt' try hard enough to get the want underneath this hose, the one
from the air cleaner to the throttle body, but finally I leaned over the engine, put some weight on the hose, and it came right off. it wasn't
on well and that was the leak. But it had been on wrong for years and
it was impossible to connect both ends. Factory versions of this hose
are pretty stiff, even when new. It had two small bends and one didn't
bend the right amount.

I had to buy a new one, though two years ago it was iirc only about $50.
From either Advance Auto or the other one that starts with A. I tried
to find out what they charge but you don't give the year or model of
your car. Why are people so reluctant to give details.

That the check engine light was on was probably the reason the car was
so cheap. I figured I could fix it but it took longer than expected, 3
years. Still the gas mileage was good the whole time. I think it
stumbled a little when accelerating from a stop, but I learned to avoid
that by using the pedal just right. After the leak was gone, it didn't
do that anymore.


Both of your off brand are listed for autos, and I dont think it gets
vey hot in my 3L engine compartment, and I dont' think any chemicals get
on the hose, and inside it's just fresh air, and I wouldn't worry about vibration, but I would worry about getting a leak-free connection.
Still 5 people rated the last hose 5 stars and 55 people even rated the
one I blew off as 3.9 stars. And you could buy one of the cheap
ones, especially the one without metal ends, and return it if it wont'
fit. Just don't cut it or make it dirty.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

XPost: alt.home.repair

On 10/27/2022 5:26 PM, Bugsy wrote:

Failed smog due to crack in 3 inch rubber air duct hose.
$105 https://www.xportautoparts.com/oem-parts/mitsubishi-air-duct-mr571700

It's a corrugated rubber hose about 10 inches long & about 3 inches wide.
Do you think a less expensive box store A/C hose will work?

https://www.amazon.com/QWORK-Extendable-Adjustable-Universal-Flexible/dp/B08P3326BS/r
https://www.amazon.com/Intake-Adjustable-Flexible-Turbo-System/dp/B07QK46N4C

https://www.wholesalemitsubishiparts.com/oem-parts/mitsubishi-air-duct-mr571700

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

XPost: alt.home.repair

Bugsy <bugsy@zimage.comBUGSY> wrote:

Failed smog due to crack in 3 inch rubber air duct hose.
$105 https://www.xportautoparts.com/oem-parts/mitsubishi-air-duct-mr571700

So, it's on the intake -after- the air mass sensor? And you didn't notice
the running problems? I would think the smog test would be the least of your worries.

It's a corrugated rubber hose about 10 inches long & about 3 inches wide.
Do you think a less expensive box store A/C hose will work?

https://www.amazon.com/QWORK-Extendable-Adjustable-Universal-Flexible/dp/B08P3326BS/r
https://www.amazon.com/Intake-Adjustable-Flexible-Turbo-System/dp/B07QK46N4C

Maybe. You might be able to patch it with 3M weatherstripping adhesive too
for test purposes. Doesn't need to take much pressure but it needs to be well-sealed and reliable.

And I bet a nickel if it's bad that you're going to find more vacuum leaks after you replace it too. If it were me, I'd use the OEM part and then I
would go poking around with an unlit propane torch looking for more leaks. --scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

XPost: alt.home.repair

In alt.home.repair, on 28 Oct 2022 20:12:02 -0000, kludge@panix.com
(Scott Dorsey) wrote:

Bugsy <bugsy@zimage.comBUGSY> wrote:

Failed smog due to crack in 3 inch rubber air duct hose.

Scott is right that you might be able to patch it. Rough it up with
sandpaper where the crack is and then use GE black silicone sealant.
Wet your finger and you can mold and smooth it after it's on. And we
have 10 fingers so you don't have to lick a dirty finger. You can even
put on 2 coats.

Did your check engine light ever go on? I'm old enough and drive
little enough that I never have to have an emissions test anymore, but I
had a CE light and I want my car to work right anyhow. Mine had been
part-way off for so long, I couldn't ge t it on at both ends even when I
worked at it. But a crack I might have tried to patch.

If you do get a code, after you try patchine it, you can get a device
that will erase your active and pending codes and then see if it shows
up again, so you don' have to keep going to the smog people until you
know it's fixed.

$105 https://www.xportautoparts.com/oem-parts/mitsubishi-air-duct-mr571700

So, it's on the intake -after- the air mass sensor? And you didn't notice >the running problems?

I only had a little bit of stumbling from a dead stop when my hose was
on wrong.

I would think the smog test would be the least of your
worries.

Gas mileage was good too.

It's a corrugated rubber hose about 10 inches long & about 3 inches wide. >>Do you think a less expensive box store A/C hose will work?

https://www.amazon.com/QWORK-Extendable-Adjustable-Universal-Flexible/dp/B08P3326BS/r

https://www.amazon.com/Intake-Adjustable-Flexible-Turbo-System/dp/B07QK46N4C

Maybe. You might be able to patch it with 3M weatherstripping adhesive too >for test purposes. Doesn't need to take much pressure but it needs to be >well-sealed and reliable.

Doesn't take any pressure. Just a little vacuum.

And I bet a nickel if it's bad that you're going to find more vacuum leaks >after you replace it too. If it were me, I'd use the OEM part and then I >would go poking around with an unlit propane torch looking for more leaks. >--scott

Why should there be more leaks than this hose? If there had been, I
think a check engine code would have been set and the light would have
gone on.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

XPost: alt.home.repair

micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:

(Scott Dorsey) wrote:

And I bet a nickel if it's bad that you're going to find more vacuum leaks >>after you replace it too. If it were me, I'd use the OEM part and then I >>would go poking around with an unlit propane torch looking for more leaks.

Why should there be more leaks than this hose? If there had been, I
think a check engine code would have been set and the light would have
gone on.

Because when people defer maintenance, the stuff you see is always the tip
of the iceberg.
--scott


--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

XPost: alt.home.repair

Scott Dorsey <kludge@panix.com> wrote:

Bugsy <bugsy@zimage.comBUGSY> wrote:

Failed smog due to crack in 3 inch rubber air duct hose.
$105 https://www.xportautoparts.com/oem-parts/mitsubishi-air-duct-mr571700

So, it's on the intake -after- the air mass sensor?

Thanks for taking a look at the hose and for answering how to find
something that isn't a hundred dollars for a short piece of open rubber.

And you didn't notice the running problems?

I'm sure the smog inspector himself broke it as he said he only saw it
_after_ he pushed hard on it. It's there now. But it wasn't there before.

Of course, if you can break rubber, then it's the original 2004 hose.
But still, there are no running problems and there never were.

The smog for a 2004 is only via the OBD and the OBD results passed.

I would think the smog test would be the least of your worries.

How long do hoses typically last?
What is your recommended time frame for replacing all the engine hoses?

If it's something people do, there will be lots of full kits for it.
Do full rubber hose kits exist for the 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer ES 2L gas?

It's a corrugated rubber hose about 10 inches long & about 3 inches wide. >>Do you think a less expensive box store A/C hose will work?

https://www.amazon.com/QWORK-Extendable-Adjustable-Universal-Flexible/dp/B08P3326BS/r

https://www.amazon.com/Intake-Adjustable-Flexible-Turbo-System/dp/B07QK46N4C

Maybe. You might be able to patch it with 3M weatherstripping adhesive too for test purposes. Doesn't need to take much pressure but it needs to be well-sealed and reliable.

Here's the problem.
There is no problem.

The mechanic _created_ the problem.

It's not his fault though (as I mentioned above).
If he was able to induce the crack, then the hose is old.

But...

I can't just patch it since he's expecting a new hose.
You're not allowed to use non-stock parts in the emissions system.
And he already told me if he sees the tape, he'll fail it again.

Of course I can seal it from the inside and go somewhere else to smog.
But I don't know what he has already reported to the state.

If he reported the hose broken the new smog guy will look for it too.
Won't he?

Plus, smog is about $75 which is the price I just paid for the Kia hose.

And I bet a nickel if it's bad that you're going to find more vacuum leaks after you replace it too. If it were me, I'd use the OEM part and then I would go poking around with an unlit propane torch looking for more leaks.

Remember there was no problem until I went to the smog inspection.
He _caused_ the problem (although the fact he could cause it is a problem).

Anyway, it seems Kia and Mitsubishi are the same company according to the
auto parts store so they use the same hose (also in the Hyundai he said).

It's still super expensive (for a rubber hose) at $75 shipped & taxed.
But it's on the way.

Kia OE 2813838200 - Engine Air Intake Hose
SKU: 2694211948

Kia OE 2813838200 - Engine Air Intake Hose SKU: 2694211948
Engine Air Intake Hose (2813838200) by Kia OE. Make vehicle look and
perform as good as new with Kia OE parts. Precision designed and tested to
meet the highest quality standards, genuine OEM Kia...
Fits Following Model(s):
2.4 LITER.
--
Please wear your mask!
Bugs are everywhere. :)
!__!
(@)(@)
\.'||'./
-: :: :-
/'..''..'\

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

XPost: alt.home.repair

In article <tjjh5q$133hf$1@paganini.bofh.team>, bugsy@zimage.comBUGSY
says...

Anyway, it seems Kia and Mitsubishi are the same company according to the auto parts store so they use the same hose (also in the Hyundai he said).

It's still super expensive (for a rubber hose) at $75 shipped & taxed.
But it's on the way.

Kia OE 2813838200 - Engine Air Intake Hose
SKU: 2694211948

Just about all parts that are custom made for a csr are very expensive
for what they are. I bet it is less than $ 15 for a key with a chip or
one of the key fobs, but they often charge you well over $ 100 for one
and to program it for your car.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

XPost: alt.home.repair

In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 29 Oct 2022 11:48:14 -0400, Ralph Mowery <rmowery42@charter.net> wrote:

In article <tjjh5q$133hf$1@paganini.bofh.team>, bugsy@zimage.comBUGSY
says...

Anyway, it seems Kia and Mitsubishi are the same company according to the
auto parts store so they use the same hose (also in the Hyundai he said).

Seems to me Chryrler used a Mitsuibishin engine in some of it's car,
84-95 and maybe still.

It's still super expensive (for a rubber hose) at $75 shipped & taxed.
But it's on the way.

Kia OE 2813838200 - Engine Air Intake Hose
SKU: 2694211948

Just about all parts that are custom made for a csr are very expensive
for what they are.

Yes.

I bet it is less than $ 15 for a key with a chip or
one of the key fobs, but they often charge you well over $ 100 for one
and to program it for your car.

But for keys and fobs, depending on the car I suppose, not so true.
Somehwere, Amazon maybe, I bought fobs for iirc $15

two toyota fobxs for $30 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XRKR9W1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Chrysler Sebring fob for $11 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LG1U7A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2 Toyotal key balnks for $15 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KTHXKMO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FWI48SY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You need a working fob, or maybe 2 of them I forget, to program a new
fob yourself. Instructions are online for most cars.

For the key, how does this work. Myabe you should cut a copy on a non
chip blank, then program the new key but just hold it near the keyhole
when you use the non-chip key to start the car. This way, you know if
you can program the key before you cut it. And a non-chip key has uses, opening doors etc. without permitting a your 12-year old or a stranger
to start the car. To actually get it copied, I went to a real
locksmith. A little more but less chance of ruining the blank, I
figured. I didn't extract a promise that he would pay for a new blank if
he ruined this one, I didnt' ask for anything special, but he made
several and didn't ruin anytthing.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

XPost: alt.home.repair

In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 29 Oct 2022 10:34:25 -0500, Bugsy <bugsy@zimage.comBUGSY> wrote:

Scott Dorsey <kludge@panix.com> wrote:

Bugsy <bugsy@zimage.comBUGSY> wrote:

Failed smog due to crack in 3 inch rubber air duct hose.
$105 https://www.xportautoparts.com/oem-parts/mitsubishi-air-duct-mr571700 >>

So, it's on the intake -after- the air mass sensor?

Thanks for taking a look at the hose and for answering how to find
something that isn't a hundred dollars for a short piece of open rubber.

And you didn't notice the running problems?

I'm sure the smog inspector himself broke it as he said he only saw it >_after_ he pushed hard on it. It's there now. But it wasn't there before.

You're in California?

In Md and I think other reglar emissions regions, they don't even open
the hood, just connect the code reader iirc. Before there was a code connection, put a sensor in the tailpipe. Maybe if I'd failed they'd
have looked under the hood???

Of course, if you can break rubber, then it's the original 2004 hose.
But still, there are no running problems and there never were.

The smog for a 2004 is only via the OBD and the OBD results passed.

And still they looked under the hood!

I would think the smog test would be the least of your worries.

How long do hoses typically last?

I had some cars that at 12 years the hoses were brittle.

But my 2005 toyota, none of the hoses were brittle last year. And
three of them went on the corresponding nipples fairly tightly, and
didn't show vaccum leaking when I put propane next to them.

What is your recommended time frame for replacing all the engine hoses?

When they are stiff and bittle afaic.

If it's something people do, there will be lots of full kits for it.

Most of the hoses are just hoses. you used to be able to buy them buy
the foot, whatever length you want. Maybe at a real auto parts store I
still could but at Pep Boys, Advance, etc. I could only get bubble
packed 10' lengths or something like that.

3 cars ago I had taken one car to Jiffy Lube, and I didnt ask them to do
more than change the oil, but he gave me a form that claimed they had
checked all sorts of things. I was watching and they did not check my
PCV valve, plus if they had, I think they would have broken the hose,
because when I later checked, it was stiff and brittle. So I replaced
all the hoses then.

Do full rubber hose kits exist for the 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer ES 2L gas?

I don't know but I doubt it.

The 2005 toyotal air intake hose (same hose as yours) whose replacement
I described was still in excellent shape in 2020, but it had been
sitting in a distorted situation for so long I couldn't get it to fit
correctly at both ends at the same time. But the rubber wasn't bad. I
still have it, outside. When I get groceries later today, I'll check if
it's stiff or brittle.

It's a corrugated rubber hose about 10 inches long & about 3 inches wide. >>>Do you think a less expensive box store A/C hose will work?

https://www.amazon.com/QWORK-Extendable-Adjustable-Universal-Flexible/dp/B08P3326BS/r

https://www.amazon.com/Intake-Adjustable-Flexible-Turbo-System/dp/B07QK46N4C >>

Maybe. You might be able to patch it with 3M weatherstripping adhesive too >> for test purposes. Doesn't need to take much pressure but it needs to be
well-sealed and reliable.

Here's the problem.
There is no problem.

The mechanic _created_ the problem.

It's not his fault though (as I mentioned above).
If he was able to induce the crack, then the hose is old.

I agree that you have to spend money once in a while.

I'm done for now.

But...

I can't just patch it since he's expecting a new hose.
You're not allowed to use non-stock parts in the emissions system.
And he already told me if he sees the tape, he'll fail it again.

Of course I can seal it from the inside and go somewhere else to smog.
But I don't know what he has already reported to the state.

If he reported the hose broken the new smog guy will look for it too.
Won't he?

Plus, smog is about $75 which is the price I just paid for the Kia hose.

And I bet a nickel if it's bad that you're going to find more vacuum leaks >> after you replace it too. If it were me, I'd use the OEM part and then I
would go poking around with an unlit propane torch looking for more leaks.

Remember there was no problem until I went to the smog inspection.
He _caused_ the problem (although the fact he could cause it is a problem).

Anyway, it seems Kia and Mitsubishi are the same company according to the >auto parts store so they use the same hose (also in the Hyundai he said).

It's still super expensive (for a rubber hose) at $75 shipped & taxed.
But it's on the way.

Kia OE 2813838200 - Engine Air Intake Hose
SKU: 2694211948

Kia OE 2813838200 - Engine Air Intake Hose SKU: 2694211948
Engine Air Intake Hose (2813838200) by Kia OE. Make vehicle look and
perform as good as new with Kia OE parts. Precision designed and tested to >meet the highest quality standards, genuine OEM Kia...
Fits Following Model(s):
2.4 LITER.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

XPost: alt.home.repair

In alt.home.repair, on 29 Oct 2022 00:41:29 -0000, kludge@panix.com
(Scott Dorsey) wrote:

micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:

(Scott Dorsey) wrote:

And I bet a nickel if it's bad that you're going to find more vacuum leaks >>>after you replace it too. If it were me, I'd use the OEM part and then I >>>would go poking around with an unlit propane torch looking for more leaks. >>

Why should there be more leaks than this hose? If there had been, I
think a check engine code would have been set and the light would have
gone on.

Because when people defer maintenance, the stuff you see is always the tip
of the iceberg.
--scott

It doesn't look to me like he deferred maaintenance, but even for those
who do, the only maintenance related to vacuum leaks is the hoses, and
unless they have deterioated, there is no point in replacing them.

For that matter, even if they are stiff AND brittle, if you dont' have
to take them off, those within the engine won't leak. Maybe a hose from
the engine to not-the-engine will be affected by vibration.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

XPost: alt.home.repair

On 10/29/2022 1:45 PM, micky wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on 29 Oct 2022 00:41:29 -0000, kludge@panix.com
(Scott Dorsey) wrote:

micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:

(Scott Dorsey) wrote:

And I bet a nickel if it's bad that you're going to find more vacuum leaks >>>> after you replace it too. If it were me, I'd use the OEM part and then I >>>> would go poking around with an unlit propane torch looking for more leaks. >>>

Why should there be more leaks than this hose? If there had been, I
think a check engine code would have been set and the light would have
gone on.

Because when people defer maintenance, the stuff you see is always the tip >> of the iceberg.
--scott

It doesn't look to me like he deferred maaintenance, but even for those
who do, the only maintenance related to vacuum leaks is the hoses, and
unless they have deterioated, there is no point in replacing them.

Plenty of gaskets affect vacuum too.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

XPost: alt.home.repair

On 30/10/2022 2:48 am, Ralph Mowery wrote:

In article <tjjh5q$133hf$1@paganini.bofh.team>, bugsy@zimage.comBUGSY
says...

Anyway, it seems Kia and Mitsubishi are the same company according to the
auto parts store so they use the same hose (also in the Hyundai he said).

It's still super expensive (for a rubber hose) at $75 shipped & taxed.
But it's on the way.

Kia OE 2813838200 - Engine Air Intake Hose
SKU: 2694211948

Just about all parts that are custom made for a csr are very expensive
for what they are. I bet it is less than $ 15 for a key with a chip or
one of the key fobs, but they often charge you well over $ 100 for one
and to program it for your car.

Not hard to understand the cost since they need to pay for the
electronic gadgetry to do the programming and that cost often includes a subscription fee that could well be thousands of dollars annually. Then
there's the subscription fees for the workshop manuals. These up front
costs and annual fees need to be amortised over every job the tools are
used for. That is only reasonable, that is only fair.


--
Xeno


Nothing astonishes Noddy so much as common sense and plain dealing.
(with apologies to Ralph Waldo Emerson)

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

XPost: alt.home.repair

In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 29 Oct 2022 16:41:53 -0400, micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:

If it's something people do, there will be lots of full kits for it.

Most of the hoses are just hoses. you used to be able to buy them buy
the foot, whatever length you want. Maybe at a real auto parts store I
still could but at Pep Boys, Advance, etc. I could only get bubble
packed 10' lengths or something like that.

3 cars ago I had taken one car to Jiffy Lube, and I didnt ask them to do
more than change the oil, but he gave me a form that claimed they had
checked all sorts of things. I was watching and they did not check my
PCV valve, plus if they had, I think they would have broken the hose,
because when I later checked, it was stiff and brittle. So I replaced
all the hoses then.

By which I meant the hoses, the vacuum hoses on top of the engine, where
it used to be very hot but with modern engines it's only somewhat hot,
but still hotter than most of the rest of the car.

I only needed two diameters iirc, at most 3. And even though I bought
in 8 or 10' lengths, I didnt' have too much left over or waste.

Do full rubber hose kits exist for the 2004 Mitsubishi Lancer ES 2L gas?

I don't know but I doubt it.

The 2005 toyotal air intake hose (same hose as yours) whose replacement
I described was still in excellent shape in 2020, but it had been
sitting in a distorted situation for so long I couldn't get it to fit >correctly at both ends at the same time. But the rubber wasn't bad. I >still have it, outside. When I get groceries later today, I'll check if
it's stiff or brittle.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

XPost: alt.home.repair

On 10/27/2022 5:26 PM, Bugsy wrote:

Failed smog due to crack in 3 inch rubber air duct hose.
$105 https://www.xportautoparts.com/oem-parts/mitsubishi-air-duct-mr571700

It's a corrugated rubber hose about 10 inches long & about 3 inches wide.
Do you think a less expensive box store A/C hose will work?

https://www.amazon.com/QWORK-Extendable-Adjustable-Universal-Flexible/dp/B08P3326BS/r
https://www.amazon.com/Intake-Adjustable-Flexible-Turbo-System/dp/B07QK46N4C

FWIW, I have had excellent results using super-glue on rubber. On a very recently created break, where the rubber is not contaminated, it might
be worth at least experimenting on the used piece.

I have used O-ring kits that include bulk round rubber, super glue, and
a 45 degree angle cutter. Cut, apply glue, and press carefully together.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

XPost: alt.home.repair

In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 29 Oct 2022 14:29:51 -0700, Bob F <bobnospam@gmail.com> wrote:

On 10/29/2022 1:45 PM, micky wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on 29 Oct 2022 00:41:29 -0000, kludge@panix.com
(Scott Dorsey) wrote:

micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:

(Scott Dorsey) wrote:

And I bet a nickel if it's bad that you're going to find more vacuum leaks
after you replace it too. If it were me, I'd use the OEM part and then I >>>>> would go poking around with an unlit propane torch looking for more leaks.

Why should there be more leaks than this hose? If there had been, I
think a check engine code would have been set and the light would have >>>> gone on.

Because when people defer maintenance, the stuff you see is always the tip >>> of the iceberg.
--scott

It doesn't look to me like he deferred maaintenance, but even for those
who do, the only maintenance related to vacuum leaks is the hoses, and
unless they have deterioated, there is no point in replacing them.

Plenty of gaskets affect vacuum too.

Does anyone replace gaskets as part of maintenance, before they find a
leak at one?

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

XPost: alt.home.repair

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 31 Oct 2022 16:38:26 -0700, Bob F <bobnospam@gmail.com> wrote:

On 10/27/2022 5:26 PM, Bugsy wrote:

Failed smog due to crack in 3 inch rubber air duct hose.
$105 https://www.xportautoparts.com/oem-parts/mitsubishi-air-duct-mr571700 >>
It's a corrugated rubber hose about 10 inches long & about 3 inches wide.
Do you think a less expensive box store A/C hose will work?

https://www.amazon.com/QWORK-Extendable-Adjustable-Universal-Flexible/dp/B08P3326BS/r
https://www.amazon.com/Intake-Adjustable-Flexible-Turbo-System/dp/B07QK46N4C

FWIW, I have had excellent results using super-glue on rubber. On a very >recently created break, where the rubber is not contaminated, it might
be worth at least experimenting on the used piece.

And that would not be apparent to the inspector.

(I my self have never gotten superglue to work at all. It doessn't even
stick my fingers together. But I'm sure a lot of people find success
with it.)

I have used O-ring kits that include bulk round rubber, super glue, and
a 45 degree angle cutter. Cut, apply glue, and press carefully together.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

Bugsy wrote:

Failed smog due to crack in 3 inch rubber air duct hose.
$105 https://www.xportautoparts.com/oem-parts/mitsubishi-air-duct-mr571700

It's a corrugated rubber hose about 10 inches long & about 3 inches wide.
Do you think a less expensive box store A/C hose will work?

https://www.amazon.com/QWORK-Extendable-Adjustable-Universal-Flexible/dp/B08P3326BS/r
https://www.amazon.com/Intake-Adjustable-Flexible-Turbo-System/dp/B07QK46N4C

I've bogged one up with Sikaflex soft silicone. It was one a propane
engine that went bang in the intake manifold, (which is also unmerciful
to air filter and MAF sensor)

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)