On Wednesday, June 4, 1997 at 12:00:00 AM UTC-7, Gml...@scvnet.com wrote:

Neb79 wrote:

It is in the high 80s here, and in the 90s some days. It won't be long untill it hits triple digits.

I converted to doghouse cooling this spring, but, it really doesn't seem
to help at all.
My oil temperatures have been ridiculous. I don't drive more than 15
miles at a time, because the oil just gets too hot. Any more driving than that and the engine compartment starts to broil, and smoke sizzles off of everything. I see anything from 180 at night after 12 miles to 240 in
the day after 12 miles (it must have been hot today) .

<snip>

I admit, there are gaps in the tin, as I have somewhat old and banged up tins. The rear breastplate is the wrong one, and it has the wrong shape......and it doesn't provide much of a seal at all. When I DO get
the right breastplate, and get new tins (after my rebuild: it leaks tons
of oil anyway), what should I expect for a stock dual port 1600/doghouse cooler in this warm 85+ degree weather? BTW: I have a thunderbird header and single QP.

I can't give you numbers, since my VWs aren't instrumented. I can tell
you that you will see an improvement when you get your tin squared away.

You really should have looked after the tin when you put the doghouse
cooler on!

If you want to get an idea of how the lack of sealing affects your
engine, go down to Radio Shack and get a $10 indoor-outdoor
thermometer. Tape the "outdoor" sensor in the airflow to the fan
intake, and then tape the display to your back window so you can see it
while driving.

Drive the car and see what the fan intake temperature _really_ is. With
a bad rear tin, I would expect to see temps around 30 degrees F above
the outside air temperature. This means that on a 90 degree day you
engine will think that it's 120 degrees out!

With the tin installed and sealed correctly, the fan intake temperature
will be within a couple of degrees of the outside air temperature. Much nicer for your motor.

While you have the tin apart, be sure to check it all for cracks (you
will probably find some on the cylinder tin of dual-port motors, at
least!) Cracks can be fixed by brazing the cracks back together. I
also use sheet metal doublers in crack-prone areas. This makes the tin
much longer lasting and easier to work on. I don't like aftermarket
tin, as it often doesn't fit as well as the OEM stuff.

The reason I don't run a gauge is that I keep my motors stock, so they
should stay within their designed parameters. Ol' Dr. Porsche didn't
think it needed a temperature gauge, so it probably doesn't! If you do
run a guage, make sure that it properly calibrated. Calibration errors
are common with automotive instrumentation and can make you think that
you have a problem when you really do not.

George Lyle
--
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