• Is the Chrysler 3.5 engine any good?

    From KC@21:1/5 to All on Sun Apr 3 02:18:02 2016
    replying to General Schvantzkoph, KC wrote:
    I have a 99 , 300 m with 159,650 miles on it. Have had some issues with other area's in this car. First two years it was flat beded in five times . Spent more time at the dealership being repaired in the first two years! Numerous other issues too. Last week driving at 55mph I started hearing this terrible noise coming from under the hood . Took it to a local repair shop and found
    out it has spun a bearing and atleast one if not more pistons are hitting the cylinder head. Any used engine put back in it would be a big gamble and probably throwing money away ! Still has other issues that needed to be looked at and repaired. Definitely not very dependable !

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  • From Steve Stone@21:1/5 to All on Sun Apr 3 10:02:43 2016
    On 4/2/2016 10:18 PM, KC wrote:
    replying to General Schvantzkoph, KC wrote:
    I have a 99 , 300 m with 159,650 miles on it. Have had some issues with other
    area's in this car. First two years it was flat beded in five times . Spent more time at the dealership being repaired in the first two years! Numerous other issues too. Last week driving at 55mph I started hearing this
    terrible
    noise coming from under the hood . Took it to a local repair shop and found out it has spun a bearing and atleast one if not more pistons are
    hitting the
    cylinder head. Any used engine put back in it would be a big gamble and probably throwing money away ! Still has other issues that needed to be looked
    at and repaired. Definitely not very dependable !


    Wow, 159,000 miles and it finally wore out.
    Did you use synthetic oil or regular oil? Did you do oil changes on
    schedule?
    Just trying to anticipate what to look forward to since I am the
    original owner of a 2000 3ooM with 42,000 miles.

    STeve



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  • From Steve Stone@21:1/5 to All on Sun Apr 3 10:07:41 2016
    Quote:

    I don't claim to be an expert and this is just my opinion.
    I've been in the automotive industry for the last 30 plus
    years and learn something new every day.

    I've had a fair amount of experience with the chrysler 2.7 ,
    3.2 and 3.5 in their LH body cars.

    I had a 2.7L , my personal car , seize up at an idle with no warning.
    These are known for consuming coolant and it was my fault for not
    fixing that problem , which led to the engine failure.

    Back to the original thread topic . It seems as if Chrysler was after
    some additional fuel mileage and HP when they built the 2nd gen.
    3.5L engines. I have a 183,000 mile 3.5 that I put a set of rod brgs
    in at 172,000. I had just purchased the vehicle and noticed an ever
    so slight knock on start up only. After pulling the pan and looking at
    the bearings , only the upper half was just starting to see copper, the
    bottom half looked good for the miles.
    If you look at the bearing width vs. the crank journal and conn. rod
    width , Chrysler could have very easily used a bearing .100 wider to
    help with the load carrying capacity, but that causes more rotating
    friction. I'd rather give up 1 mpg than have to think about loosing
    the bottom end.
    I had nothing to loose but my time and the cost of a set of rod bearings
    , so I polished it up and put it back together.
    Now just a little more rambling,,,,,
    - People think their doing a good job by going to a quick lube every
    3000 miles . The oil they use it the cheapest crap they can buy !!
    I'm not here to sell oil but you get what you pay for " most of the
    time" do your homework , even some of the top advertised synthetics
    aren't that great.
    - Run a premium oil filter
    - And from my own experience , when you have " ANY " amount of
    coolant consumption , address it immediately.
    I honestly believe because they have a weaker than average bottom
    end that all of the above is super critical.
    Again , Just my humble opinion and to end on a positive note , if I
    didn't enjoy driving my car and I really do , I'd never put this kind of
    work into it.

    http://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/300m-concorde-lhs-new-yorker-19/3-5l-connecting-rod-bearing-issues-99-04-lh-18201/

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  • From Steve Stone@21:1/5 to All on Sun Apr 3 10:15:16 2016
    You might like this link too:

    http://300mclub.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=27345

    3.5 Engine Connecting Rod Bearing Information/ Analysis

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  • From Steve Stone@21:1/5 to MoPar Man on Sun Apr 3 16:48:50 2016
    On 4/3/2016 12:50 PM, MoPar Man wrote:
    Um, Steve -

    Did you notice that "KC" started this thread on Saturday- by replying to
    a post made in 2004?


    No... but now I do.. duh on my end.

    Steve

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  • From MoPar Man@21:1/5 to Steve Stone on Sun Apr 3 12:50:08 2016
    Um, Steve -

    Did you notice that "KC" started this thread on Saturday- by replying to
    a post made in 2004?

    Steve Stone wrote:

    Wow, 159,000 miles and it finally wore out.
    Did you use synthetic oil or regular oil? Did you do oil changes on
    schedule?
    Just trying to anticipate what to look forward to since I am the
    original owner of a 2000 3ooM with 42,000 miles.

    I own a 2000 Chrysler 300m - bought it new back in November 1999.

    It has 133k miles on it. In 2012 or 2013 I took it to a dealer to
    replace the timing belt - because it was the original belt and it was
    10+ years old and if that belt breaks then the engine is toast.
    Otherwise the engine was in perfect shape. I had the timing belt idler
    pulley, the water pump and a few seals changed as part of the same job
    because why not - since all the labor cost was already covered to get to
    the timing belt.

    The engine is otherwise trouble free in 16 years. Had to replace 1
    spark-plug ignition coil. Had to replace the front exhaust couplers
    (the semi-flexible joint after the cat convertors) and the exhaust
    resonator (where the 2 exhaust pipes join into a single pipe, sort of
    looks like a muffler). Otherwise all original exhaust components remain
    in place, including the muffler (bottom surface is peppered with holes
    but they don't seem to make a difference).

    Just make sure you change the gear oil (differential fluid) every once
    in while. The 300m transaxle has it's own oil sump, takes a liter of
    SAE 90 oil (don't use synthetic!). Other cars lubricate the transaxle
    with transmission fluid - which is lame.

    Never had anything done with the transmission. Even tranny oil is
    original!

    Car gets 28 to 30 mpg on the highway at 65 - 70 mph.

    Never had anything done to fuel system (original injectors, original
    fuel pump, original fuel filter, etc).

    Suspension is where the focus is on the 300m (and probably all LH-body
    cars). I've replaced all 4 struts (with complete replacements, known as "quick-strut" units, fully assembled). Unless you drive on very flat
    and well-maintained roads you're going to have to replace the front sway
    bar bushings every 4 years or live with a knocking sound from the front
    wheels.

    I've replaced all 4 wheel bearings (because why not if the price is
    right). Have replaced the sway bar links once or twice. I've replaced
    one of the lower control arms and torsion strut rod and bushings, going
    to do the same on the other side soon. Still using original outer tie
    rods but I'm going to be replacing the inner tie rod bushings (because
    these wear out and I assume mine has). Probably buy the entire rods and
    ends because they're cheap enough (Rock Auto).

    One stupid problem I have is that over the past 3 years I've been
    getting less and less heat out of the heater. Heater core getting
    plugged up seems to be a chronic problem in LH cars. I'll try to flush
    the shit out of it when I work on the inner tie rod bushings (need to
    remove the hood and cross-piece thing to do that, and that gives me
    access to heater hoses at the firewall).

    Other than the timing belt, I do all the work on this car myself.

    Door speakers wear out (cone separates from frame) and I've used epoxy
    to repair it, but it doesn't last.

    I bought a set of after-market head lights from china or singapore a few
    months ago (Eagle Eyes, from ebay) for $80 (came with light bulbs) and
    wow, crystal clear head lights make the car look new again!

    So yes, the 3.5 engine is fantastic. I should have bought another
    chrysler 300m back in 2004 and just kept it in a box for when my 2000
    car finally wears out. I do not like anything that anyone's making now,
    and I've always hated the bloated, boxy and heavy 300c that Chrysler
    replaced the 300m with in 2005.

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  • From Jeremy Murphy@21:1/5 to All on Sat May 28 05:18:01 2016
    replying to Steve, Jeremy Murphy wrote:
    I have an '04 Pacifica sitting at 191,400 miles that just got 24.3 mpg on a
    530 mile trip.

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  • From Eddie111@21:1/5 to All on Thu Nov 17 03:18:41 2016
    replying to kokomoNOSPAMkid, Eddie111 wrote:
    I have had 3 cars with the 3.5. 2 of them still ran good at 240k just didn't want to put any more money in the car . The 323rd has 160k on and still
    driving it.

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  • From Eddie111@21:1/5 to All on Thu Nov 17 03:16:10 2016
    replying to kokomoNOSPAMkid, Eddie111 wrote:
    I have had 3 cars with the 3.5. 2 of them still ran good at 240k just didn't want to put any more money in the car . The 323rd has 160k on and still
    driving it.

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  • From Eddie111@21:1/5 to All on Thu Nov 17 03:22:15 2016
    replying to kokomoNOSPAMkid, Eddie111 wrote:
    I have had 3 cars with the 3.5. 2 of them still ran good at 240k just didn't want to put any more money in the car . The 323rd has 160k on and still
    driving it.

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  • From Joe@21:1/5 to All on Thu Feb 16 13:18:03 2017
    replying to KC, Joe wrote:
    You garage is ripping you off if that's what they told you!
    A "spun bearing" won't cause the pistons to hit the valves.....highway robbery!

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  • From andy@21:1/5 to All on Sun Mar 5 16:18:02 2017
    replying to Geoff, andy wrote:
    our 2005 300 has 161,000...and i was just talking to a guy who has 243,000 on his...


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  • From jackson@21:1/5 to All on Sun Mar 12 16:18:01 2017
    replying to Joe, jackson wrote:
    A spun rod bearing most certainly will allow the piston to kiss the cylinder head. I'm a retired mechanic, 45 years in the trade

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  • From Larry Holcombe@21:1/5 to All on Thu Jun 8 13:18:01 2017
    replying to David Zatz, Larry Holcombe wrote:
    Just had the timing belt/water pump etc. replaced on my 3.5L 2005 Pacifica but it was running fine, just preventive maintenance at 111,000 miles. Great car and so far great trouble free engine and everything works like new. I do add injector cleaner about every six months. As best I can tell if you maintain
    the the 3.5 you've got a 250,000 to 300,000 mile engine.


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  • From Steve Stone@21:1/5 to Larry Holcombe on Fri Jun 9 14:41:46 2017
    On 6/8/2017 9:18 AM, Larry Holcombe wrote:
    replying to David Zatz, Larry Holcombe wrote:
    Just had the timing belt/water pump etc. replaced on my 3.5L 2005
    Pacifica but
    it was running fine, just preventive maintenance at 111,000 miles. Great
    car
    and so far great trouble free engine and everything works like new. I do
    add
    injector cleaner about every six months. As best I can tell if you maintain the the 3.5 you've got a 250,000 to 300,000 mile engine.



    How much did it cost to get the timing belt replaced?

    Thanks,
    Steve

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  • From michael@21:1/5 to All on Fri Sep 29 23:18:01 2017
    replying to kokomoNOSPAMkid, michael wrote:
    i have a 2006 pasifica it had 104.00.00 when we got it that was a little over
    a year ago it now has 145.000 and i started to see oil in my coolant just a little so as time went by i thought oil cooler was going out but it was good so then i thought head gasket geeting ready to go and it did did the work myself resurfaceed heads my self put it back together and crossed my fingers and it was like a new engine i was going to give it a week before i get
    excited and in about 5 days the head gaskets blew again so i took off the
    heads again and im going to have them presure cheak and resurfaced im hopeing that there is a crack in one of the heads because that would explain why it blew again but if no cracks or leaks then im wondering if the new gaskets were any good ive done about 10 head gaskets replacments and ive never seen 3 layer gaskets seperated like this were i didnt want to use them but 1 or 2 pepole told me that how they are new idkn the other thing was i didnt retorqe the
    head bolts after starting the engine with the new gasket after cooling down
    but the one side bolts were not as tight as they were when i t torqed them
    down would that make the gasket fail i dont know im going to loss it if it fails a third time any one can help me ????????

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  • From Trunx wikid@21:1/5 to All on Mon Dec 11 18:18:00 2017
    replying to Steve Stone, Trunx wikid wrote:
    2001 300M with 260k Miles a hole in exhaust, very very minor body rust, no engine issues what so ever, 3k Synthetic LOFs no sludge i LOVE IT!!!!

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  • From jvc.rcm.90@gmail.com@21:1/5 to Steve on Sun Jan 7 05:38:04 2018
    On Sunday, June 27, 2004 at 9:22:42 PM UTC-4, Steve wrote:
    Hmmm... wrote:

    Can you elaborate on the "radical" design changes between the 1st and 2nd generation LH 3.5L? Just curious. I think I read something about 1st generation being non-interference, and that was changed in the 2nd generation?



    The biggest change is that the first-genration had a cast nickel/iron
    block, the second gen has an aluminum block with nickel/iron liners. The second gen also has coil-on-plug ignition, and is apparently now an interference engine due to changes either in the combustion chamber or
    the piston compression height. However, very little (essentially
    nothing) changed with the rotating assembly- still a forged steel crank,
    nice long rods swinging short "slipper" pistons with a relatively low bob-weight (some other makers stick with taller pistons and shorten the
    RODS which leads to greater side-loading on the cylinder walls and
    higher stresses in the rod itself), cross-bolted mains (I believe with a
    full block girdle in the aluminum version, not necessary in the iron version). All-in-all its one HELL of a fine engine. You don't hear much
    about it because, like the 318, 383, 440, and slant-six before it, it
    just goes out and does its job for hundreds of thousands of miles
    without fancy advertizing.

    You are correct my mopar man....................

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  • From Richard@21:1/5 to All on Fri Jun 1 03:18:02 2018
    replying to Steve Stone, Richard wrote:
    Quite agree Steve, spot on advice re oil, and the weak bottom end....a basic engineering design fault, to not provide a shade more bearing width, and the extra drag too minimal to shave even 1 mpg off the standard. It is staggering to see a team of Chrysler design engineers so incompetent as to provide an engine that is on a par with a 1960,s engine....narrow bearings and too high a load to cope...but they lasted longer then even with the rubbish oils of that era. I have a very dim view of today,s engineers, where even Lexus get it wrong...too many smart letter after a name , and no spanner experience makes a crap designer. .

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  • From LH car GUY@21:1/5 to All on Mon Nov 1 03:45:03 2021
    355000 miles on my 99 'trepid only replaced the spark plugs, coils, timing belt with pulley and water pump. Oil and filter change every 3000 miles only with conventional 10w30 walmart tech oil.

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