• Is it possible to fix a badly warped 45 record?

    From Terry S@21:1/5 to tub...@myshop.com on Mon Apr 29 19:45:32 2019
    On Monday, April 29, 2019 at 3:01:04 AM UTC-5, tub...@myshop.com wrote:
    I got a 45 record at a rummage sale for 10 cents. Nothing special, but
    since I just acquired an old portable record player, I wanted to try it.
    I put the record on the dash in my car and left it there till the next
    day. Apparently the sun warped it, and it now looks like waves on the
    ocean. Before tossing it in the trash, I want to know if there is a way
    to fix this. I've heard this is possible, but dont know how.

    I was wondering about heating it with a hair dryer, then sitting a flat object on it, such as a board, and a weight on top of the board till it cools.

    Have any of you tried anything like this?
    Maybe I'm just wasting my time, but I'll give it a try if there is any
    hope for it.

    I forgot how touchy records are to heat..... Now I know.....

    Just what the hell did you THINK might happen if you left a 45 on your dash?

    Never mind, this I'm certain is another BS post anyway. You just like to hear yourself type.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Neon John@21:1/5 to All on Tue May 7 14:23:45 2019
    On Mon, 29 Apr 2019 07:02:19 -0700, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>
    wrote:


    However if you ever considered using Google or another search engine you >could try "flatten record" and you would find your answer.

    If he had used Google then he would not have started a conversation in
    the almost dead group.

    Years ago, the Chattanooga (TN) public library decided to get rid of
    all its analog recordings. I was the only bidder and got the
    collection for the opening bid of $100. Two pickup trucks full.

    Many 45s were in rough shape and I had a lot of 'em. I have a friend
    who owns a replacement glass company. I had him cut me a couple dozen
    12" squares of "thick glass".

    Get a can of silicone spray, spray each side of the glass and polish
    it off. This keeps the vinyl from sticking to the glass.

    I have a large lab oven. I alternated glass and record until the
    stack was near the top. I placed a glass piece on the top and added 2
    20 lb bars of solder. The oven is equipped with a precision temp
    controller capable of 1 deg F control. Controllers to do this are
    available on sleazebay for about $15.

    A domestic oven will work fine. Just be sure to shield the records
    from the direct infrared of the heating element. A piece of heavy
    duty aluminum will do the job just find.

    Restoring the records to flatness while not distorting the grooves is
    a long, drawn-out process. After researching record vinyl
    characteristics, I set my controller to 140 deg. The process took at
    least a week - I didn't keep track.

    This process was developed using several records containing junk music
    so I know the process works.

    This was an amazing collection, ranging from real albums (a book with
    each page containing a 78RPM record) on up to relatively modern music.
    Some of the albums still had the cello on them - never listened to.

    It took several years to digitize the collection, after which I
    donated it to our small local library. They were thrilled.

    Here's another tip. If you have a very scratched record that you want
    to attempt digitizing, mix up a quart of water with a drop of
    dishwashing detergent. The detergent is a surfactant that causes the
    water to wet even the finest features. Flood the record with the
    water and play it while flooded. Some highs are lost but the
    scratches practically disappear. This process turns a practically
    unlistenable into something that can be listened to, though not always
    at the highest of fidelity.

    If you worry about water getting in your cartridge (I didn't), buy a
    second one just for wet recording. It doesn't have to be a
    particularly high quality cartridge considering the source.

    John
    John DeArmond
    http://www.neon-john.com
    http://www.tnduction.com
    Tellico Plains, Occupied TN
    See website for email address

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From tubeguy@myshop.com@21:1/5 to Neon John on Tue May 7 23:27:44 2019
    On Tue, 07 May 2019 14:23:45 -0400, Neon John <no@never.com> wrote:

    If he had used Google then he would not have started a conversation in
    the almost dead group.

    And probably gotten lots of useless information and hundreds of dead
    links. Google is garbage and gets worse every year..... But they're
    happy to take your money..... And steal your identity.....

    I try to use the web as little as possible.

    Thanks for all your useful help on this subject.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From John Robertson@21:1/5 to Neon John on Wed May 8 15:36:52 2019
    On 2019/05/07 11:23 a.m., Neon John wrote:
    On Mon, 29 Apr 2019 07:02:19 -0700, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>
    wrote:


    However if you ever considered using Google or another search engine you
    could try "flatten record" and you would find your answer.

    If he had used Google then he would not have started a conversation in
    the almost dead group.

    Years ago, the Chattanooga (TN) public library decided to get rid of
    all its analog recordings. I was the only bidder and got the
    collection for the opening bid of $100. Two pickup trucks full.

    Many 45s were in rough shape and I had a lot of 'em. I have a friend
    who owns a replacement glass company. I had him cut me a couple dozen
    12" squares of "thick glass".

    Get a can of silicone spray, spray each side of the glass and polish
    it off. This keeps the vinyl from sticking to the glass.

    I have a large lab oven. I alternated glass and record until the
    stack was near the top. I placed a glass piece on the top and added 2
    20 lb bars of solder. The oven is equipped with a precision temp
    controller capable of 1 deg F control. Controllers to do this are
    available on sleazebay for about $15.

    A domestic oven will work fine. Just be sure to shield the records
    from the direct infrared of the heating element. A piece of heavy
    duty aluminum will do the job just find.

    Restoring the records to flatness while not distorting the grooves is
    a long, drawn-out process. After researching record vinyl
    characteristics, I set my controller to 140 deg. The process took at
    least a week - I didn't keep track.

    This process was developed using several records containing junk music
    so I know the process works.

    This was an amazing collection, ranging from real albums (a book with
    each page containing a 78RPM record) on up to relatively modern music.
    Some of the albums still had the cello on them - never listened to.

    It took several years to digitize the collection, after which I
    donated it to our small local library. They were thrilled.

    Here's another tip. If you have a very scratched record that you want
    to attempt digitizing, mix up a quart of water with a drop of
    dishwashing detergent. The detergent is a surfactant that causes the
    water to wet even the finest features. Flood the record with the
    water and play it while flooded. Some highs are lost but the
    scratches practically disappear. This process turns a practically unlistenable into something that can be listened to, though not always
    at the highest of fidelity.

    If you worry about water getting in your cartridge (I didn't), buy a
    second one just for wet recording. It doesn't have to be a
    particularly high quality cartridge considering the source.

    John
    John DeArmond
    http://www.neon-john.com
    http://www.tnduction.com
    Tellico Plains, Occupied TN
    See website for email address


    Great description of the process. Did you consider using a pace of paper
    or thin cardboard with a hole cut out large enough to deal with the
    label? I imagine the record would 'sag' until it was flat on the bottom
    side and settled down a bit from the top side of the label.

    Still when you are dealing with previously warped - flat records, even
    if offset slightly, are a great improvement.

    Thanks for taking the time to report.

    John :-#)#

    --
    (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
    John's Jukes Ltd.
    MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
    (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
    www.flippers.com
    "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Adrian Tuddenham@21:1/5 to John Robertson on Thu May 9 09:20:31 2019
    John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> wrote:

    ...Did you consider using a pace of paper
    or thin cardboard with a hole cut out large enough to deal with the
    label? I imagine the record would 'sag' until it was flat on the bottom
    side and settled down a bit from the top side of the label.

    The cardboard, instead of the glass, would be in contact with the record surface and would leave an impression or even stick to it. It really
    needs a glass sheet with a hole in it, but this would have to be made by
    a specialist glass cutter.

    When I got my 'circular' glass sheets made, they looked as though they
    had been chewed out with a pair of false teeth. I had assumed the glass
    cutter would have the appropriate machine, but it appears he didn't.
    They worked all right, so there was no point in making a fuss.

    They both have central holes, so I not only use them for flattening, but
    one of the pair goes on the turntable to raise the disc up to a smaller diameter region of the centre spindle. This allows it to be more
    accurately centred by means of a meter in the feedback circuit of the
    parallel tracker servo.


    --
    ~ Adrian Tuddenham ~
    (Remove the ".invalid"s and add ".co.uk" to reply)
    www.poppyrecords.co.uk

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From John Robertson@21:1/5 to Adrian Tuddenham on Thu May 9 07:49:26 2019
    Hi Adrian,

    On 2019/05/09 1:20 a.m., Adrian Tuddenham wrote:
    John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> wrote:

    ...Did you consider using a pace of paper
    or thin cardboard with a hole cut out large enough to deal with the
    label? I imagine the record would 'sag' until it was flat on the bottom
    side and settled down a bit from the top side of the label.

    The cardboard, instead of the glass, would be in contact with the record surface and would leave an impression or even stick to it. It really
    needs a glass sheet with a hole in it, but this would have to be made by
    a specialist glass cutter.

    If the record playing part (groove section) did not sag to one side
    beneath the extra thickness of the labels then my suggestion about a
    thin piece of paper or cardboard (or ??) would not be needed to keep the
    body of the record centred relative to the thickness of the centre area
    with the label. I agree that if the paper/cardboard was squished against
    the record it would flatten the groves. This idea was more to act as a
    support for the playing part of the record when it softened and
    flattened out. Of course if the records are warped then the warpage goes
    higher and lower than the label portion so how do you prevent the groves
    from being flattened where they are in contact with the glass?

    I'M starting to think one could do this centrifugally - spin the record
    in the oven that is just warm enough to make the plastic flexible, but
    not enough to stretch... Rube Goldberg lives!


    When I got my 'circular' glass sheets made, they looked as though they
    had been chewed out with a pair of false teeth. I had assumed the glass cutter would have the appropriate machine, but it appears he didn't.
    They worked all right, so there was no point in making a fuss.

    They both have central holes, so I not only use them for flattening, but
    one of the pair goes on the turntable to raise the disc up to a smaller diameter region of the centre spindle. This allows it to be more
    accurately centred by means of a meter in the feedback circuit of the parallel tracker servo.




    I don't quite have a picture in my mind about your last paragraph. What
    do you mean by "They both have central holes"? Obviously the record has
    a hole (large or small de[ending on the 45), but what else does?

    Also, wouldn't a square piece of glass work just as well as a round one
    that is cut to the diameter of the 45? That seems like an excessive
    expense and why would it matter if the glass was round or square 7 to
    7.25 inches on a side? If all were square you could make a simple frame
    to keep them all centred in the oven?

    Do you have any photos? I'm sure a few of us would be interested and I
    would like to make a write up for my jukebox support pages on flippers.com

    Thanks,

    John :-#)#

    --
    (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
    John's Jukes Ltd.
    MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
    (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
    www.flippers.com
    "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Adrian Tuddenham@21:1/5 to John Robertson on Thu May 9 18:32:55 2019
    John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> wrote:


    They both have central holes, so I not only use them for flattening, but one of the pair goes on the turntable to raise the disc up to a smaller diameter region of the centre spindle. This allows it to be more accurately centred by means of a meter in the feedback circuit of the parallel tracker servo.

    I don't quite have a picture in my mind about your last paragraph. What
    do you mean by "They both have central holes"? Obviously the record has
    a hole (large or small de[ending on the 45), but what else does?

    Also, wouldn't a square piece of glass work just as well as a round one
    that is cut to the diameter of the 45? That seems like an excessive
    expense and why would it matter if the glass was round or square 7 to
    7.25 inches on a side? If all were square you could make a simple frame
    to keep them all centred in the oven?

    Do you have any photos? I'm sure a few of us would be interested and I
    would like to make a write up for my jukebox support pages on flippers.com

    You can see part of the parallel-tracker in the background of the
    picture at:

    http://www.poppyrecords.co.uk/lifebeforevinyl/main.htm

    The short arm is suspended beneath a die-cast box, which contains the
    optical sensor for pickup angle. Two photocells receive a beam from an infra-red LED; a metal flag on the arm pivot partially obscures each of
    them. When the arm is truely tangential to the grooves, the photocell
    currents are in balance, but any off-balance caused by skewing is
    amplified and applied to a servo motor that drives the whole assembly
    along the track until the correct angle is restored. There are some
    analogue electronics involved in damping any tendency to hunt and to
    over-ride the time constants and make the motor run at full speed when a
    large error needs correcting quickly.

    The motor can be switched off by means of a front panel control, so that
    the static error voltage can be read off a meter. Another position of
    the switch increases the gain so that the markings on the meter
    correspond to thousandths of an inch, to aid acurate centring as the
    turntable is rotated slowly by hand.

    There is also the option to electrically bias the pickup to one side or
    the other, this is especially useful when playing a record with sticking
    or jumping grooves. I have a second turntable that can play in reverse,
    which allows a turn that has been missed because of a groove jump to be
    played by creeping up on it from behind - the recording of that section
    is then reversed and dropped into the rest of the playback.

    In the picture you can just make out the glass plate, which is about an
    inch bigger in diameter than the disc. For flattening purposes, a
    square of glass would have been sufficient (I used to use the back
    windows out of a scrap Mini van), but the corners would be a bit of a
    hazard rotating at 78 rpm on a turntable.


    [If you want to hear the programmes, go to the individual programme page
    and click on the single dot below the Episode title.]

    --
    ~ Adrian Tuddenham ~
    (Remove the ".invalid"s and add ".co.uk" to reply)
    www.poppyrecords.co.uk

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Jim Mueller@21:1/5 to John Robertson on Sun May 12 04:07:00 2019
    On Wed, 08 May 2019 15:36:52 -0700, John Robertson wrote:
    Did you consider using a pace of paper or thin cardboard with a hole
    cut out large enough to deal with the label? I imagine the record would
    'sag' until it was flat on the bottom side and settled down a bit from
    the top side of the label.

    Still when you are dealing with previously warped - flat records, even
    if offset slightly, are a great improvement.

    Thanks for taking the time to report.

    John :-#)#

    How about aluminum? That wouldn't leave crud on the record like a paper product would and is much easier to work than glass.

    --
    Jim Mueller wrongname@nospam.com

    To get my real email address, replace wrongname with eggmen.
    Then replace nospam with expressmail. Lastly, replace com with dk.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Neon John@21:1/5 to All on Fri May 17 13:29:47 2019
    On Sun, 12 May 2019 04:07:00 GMT, Jim Mueller <wrongname@nospam.com>
    wrote:

    How about aluminum? That wouldn't leave crud on the record like a paper >product would and is much easier to work than glass.

    One of my hobby endeavors is working with glass. Blown, stained,
    neon, etc.

    I can cut a glass circle in about 15 seconds. I have a compass-like
    tool with a suction cup on one end and a sharp carbide cutter on the
    other. Stick the cup at the center of the disc. Set the radius and
    then rotate the carbide tool to cut a circle groove in the glass.
    Using a manual glass cutting tool, run several grooves from the circle
    on an angle to the edge of the glass.

    Hold the glass and tap the underside with something a bit heavy. Most
    glass cutters have a cast iron ball on the other end.

    A crack will start. Continue tapping around the circle just behind
    the head of the crack. Sometimes the crack will deviate to one of the
    angle lines. This is good. Without the stress cracks, the
    accumulated stress will likely cause the crack to deviate from the
    circle. When the crack reaches the beginning, the circle will pop
    out.

    Float glass costs a fraction of the price of plywood.

    My friend has a Pantograph-machine that is about 4X faster than doing
    it manually.

    John

    John DeArmond
    http://www.neon-john.com
    http://www.tnduction.com
    Tellico Plains, Occupied TN
    See website for email address

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Jim Mueller@21:1/5 to Neon John on Sat May 18 04:47:01 2019
    On Fri, 17 May 2019 13:29:47 -0400, Neon John wrote:

    On Sun, 12 May 2019 04:07:00 GMT, Jim Mueller <wrongname@nospam.com>
    wrote:

    How about aluminum? That wouldn't leave crud on the record like a paper >>product would and is much easier to work than glass.

    One of my hobby endeavors is working with glass. Blown, stained, neon,
    etc.

    I can cut a glass circle in about 15 seconds. I have a compass-like
    tool with a suction cup on one end and a sharp carbide cutter on the
    other. Stick the cup at the center of the disc. Set the radius and
    then rotate the carbide tool to cut a circle groove in the glass. Using
    a manual glass cutting tool, run several grooves from the circle on an
    angle to the edge of the glass.

    Hold the glass and tap the underside with something a bit heavy. Most
    glass cutters have a cast iron ball on the other end.

    A crack will start. Continue tapping around the circle just behind the
    head of the crack. Sometimes the crack will deviate to one of the angle lines. This is good. Without the stress cracks, the accumulated stress
    will likely cause the crack to deviate from the circle. When the crack reaches the beginning, the circle will pop out.

    Float glass costs a fraction of the price of plywood.

    My friend has a Pantograph-machine that is about 4X faster than doing it manually.

    John

    John DeArmond http://www.neon-john.com http://www.tnduction.com Tellico Plains, Occupied TN See website for email address

    That sounds like the circle of glass is the desired piece. What if the
    circle were the scrap? Like for cutting a hole in the glass to clear the thicker label of a 45?



    --
    Jim Mueller wrongname@nospam.com

    To get my real email address, replace wrongname with eggmen.
    Then replace nospam with expressmail. Lastly, replace com with dk.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Neon John@21:1/5 to All on Sat May 18 09:32:55 2019
    On Sat, 18 May 2019 04:47:01 GMT, Jim Mueller <wrongname@nospam.com>
    wrote:

    That sounds like the circle of glass is the desired piece. What if the >circle were the scrap? Like for cutting a hole in the glass to clear the >thicker label of a 45?

    Same process, smaller circle, minus the diagonals, of course. You'll
    run the risk of having crack deviation but that doesn't happen too
    often.

    John
    John DeArmond
    http://www.neon-john.com
    http://www.tnduction.com
    Tellico Plains, Occupied TN
    See website for email address

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)