Not the social group kind, the stone kind.
I need to lay down a walkway to the shed[0]. The path needs to be about
3' wide and it's about 60' from the patio to the shed, with a few turns. While I'd like it to be darkish (hides tannic acid stains from oak leaves better, and not so much glare), it doesn't have to match the patio's
color or design. Slate and anything polished is probably out, for traction-when-wet issues. Uneven surfaces are out because some of the "pedestrians" use wheels.
I really like Penrose[1] and Cairo[2] and Escheresque tilings, but
they're crazy expensive, if they even exist as stock items. I found
one guy selling the latter[3], but at $40-$60 each we're talking $10-$15 _thousand_ for the stones, not to mention the other associated costs
(this will be a DIY job). I was hoping for something in the hundreds. I found a place selling hexagonal stones[5], but at $6.50 each they come
to about $1200. Too bad, I think they're cool.
I could get plain square red-brown stones[4] at Home Depot for under
$200, but that's boring. It turns out that very few places actually
want to sell me stones; most want to do it for me. That or my
google-fu sucks.
Any suggestions?
[0] http://imgur.com/Yk6zNCe The shed's the grey roof visible behind the
bush.
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Penrose_tiling
[2] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cairo_pentagonal_tiling ; advantages
include that it uses only one kind of tile, and that the one is
convex.
[3] http://www.geckostone.com/
[4] http://www.homedepot.com/p/100333084
[5] http://carrollsbuildingmaterials.com/landscape-products/pavers-profiles-finishes/classic-hexagon-pavers/
Not the social group kind, the stone kind.
I need to lay down a walkway to the shed[0]. The path needs to be about
3' wide and it's about 60' from the patio to the shed, with a few turns. >While I'd like it to be darkish (hides tannic acid stains from oak leaves >better, and not so much glare), it doesn't have to match the patio's
color or design. Slate and anything polished is probably out, for >traction-when-wet issues. Uneven surfaces are out because some of the >"pedestrians" use wheels.
I really like Penrose[1] and Cairo[2] and Escheresque tilings, but
they're crazy expensive, if they even exist as stock items. I found
one guy selling the latter[3], but at $40-$60 each we're talking $10-$15 >_thousand_ for the stones, not to mention the other associated costs
(this will be a DIY job). I was hoping for something in the hundreds. I >found a place selling hexagonal stones[5], but at $6.50 each they come
to about $1200. Too bad, I think they're cool.
I could get plain square red-brown stones[4] at Home Depot for under
$200, but that's boring. It turns out that very few places actually
want to sell me stones; most want to do it for me. That or my
google-fu sucks.
Any suggestions?
[0] http://imgur.com/Yk6zNCe The shed's the grey roof visible behind the
bush.
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Penrose_tiling
[2] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cairo_pentagonal_tiling ; advantages
include that it uses only one kind of tile, and that the one is
convex.
[3] http://www.geckostone.com/
[4] http://www.homedepot.com/p/100333084
[5] http://carrollsbuildingmaterials.com/landscape-products/pavers-profiles-finishes/classic-hexagon-pavers/
On 3/25/2016 6:40 PM, Hactar wrote:
Not the social group kind, the stone kind.Why not just do concrete? You can stain it any color you like, you can
I need to lay down a walkway to the shed[0]. The path needs to be about
3' wide and it's about 60' from the patio to the shed, with a few turns.
While I'd like it to be darkish (hides tannic acid stains from oak leaves
better, and not so much glare), it doesn't have to match the patio's
color or design. Slate and anything polished is probably out, for
traction-when-wet issues. Uneven surfaces are out because some of the
"pedestrians" use wheels.
I really like Penrose[1] and Cairo[2] and Escheresque tilings, but
they're crazy expensive, if they even exist as stock items. I found
one guy selling the latter[3], but at $40-$60 each we're talking $10-$15
_thousand_ for the stones, not to mention the other associated costs
(this will be a DIY job). I was hoping for something in the hundreds. I
found a place selling hexagonal stones[5], but at $6.50 each they come
to about $1200. Too bad, I think they're cool.
I could get plain square red-brown stones[4] at Home Depot for under
$200, but that's boring. It turns out that very few places actually
want to sell me stones; most want to do it for me. That or my
google-fu sucks.
Any suggestions?
[0] http://imgur.com/Yk6zNCe The shed's the grey roof visible behind the
bush.
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Penrose_tiling
[2] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cairo_pentagonal_tiling ; advantages
include that it uses only one kind of tile, and that the one is
convex.
[3] http://www.geckostone.com/
[4] http://www.homedepot.com/p/100333084
[5] http://carrollsbuildingmaterials.com/landscape-products/pavers-profiles-finishes/classic-hexagon-pavers/
even get it pattern stamped for variety. You've only got 180 sqft.
That's going to need less than 2 yards of concrete, or, if you want it
4" thick, it would take 180 80' bags of redimix at about 3-4 per bag.
You can probably hire it done for less than $6 per sqft.
On Fri, 25 Mar 2016 19:40:42 -0400, Hactar wrote:
Not the social group kind, the stone kind.
I need to lay down a walkway to the shed[0]. The path needs to be about
3' wide and it's about 60' from the patio to the shed, with a few turns.
While I'd like it to be darkish (hides tannic acid stains from oak leaves
better, and not so much glare), it doesn't have to match the patio's
color or design. Slate and anything polished is probably out, for
traction-when-wet issues. Uneven surfaces are out because some of the
"pedestrians" use wheels.
I really like Penrose[1] and Cairo[2] and Escheresque tilings, but
they're crazy expensive, if they even exist as stock items. I found
one guy selling the latter[3], but at $40-$60 each we're talking $10-$15
_thousand_ for the stones, not to mention the other associated costs
(this will be a DIY job). I was hoping for something in the hundreds. I
found a place selling hexagonal stones[5], but at $6.50 each they come
to about $1200. Too bad, I think they're cool.
I could get plain square red-brown stones[4] at Home Depot for under
$200, but that's boring. It turns out that very few places actually
want to sell me stones; most want to do it for me. That or my
google-fu sucks.
Any suggestions?
[0] http://imgur.com/Yk6zNCe The shed's the grey roof visible behind the
bush.
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Penrose_tiling
[2] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cairo_pentagonal_tiling ; advantages
include that it uses only one kind of tile, and that the one is
convex.
[3] http://www.geckostone.com/
[4] http://www.homedepot.com/p/100333084
[5] http://carrollsbuildingmaterials.com/landscape-products/pavers-profiles-finishes/classic-hexagon-pavers/
We were just talking about this tonight. The concrete path out to the back is in very sad shape. I think we're going with your option #4 because,
shit, we're not made out of money.
On 3/25/2016 11:33 PM, Lesmond wrote:
On Fri, 25 Mar 2016 20:49:07 -0500, Tim Wright wrote:But that's not the case in sunny Florida, where Hactar is.
On 3/25/2016 6:40 PM, Hactar wrote:
Not the social group kind, the stone kind.Why not just do concrete? You can stain it any color you like, you can
I need to lay down a walkway to the shed[0]. The path needs to be about >>>> 3' wide and it's about 60' from the patio to the shed, with a few turns. >>>> While I'd like it to be darkish (hides tannic acid stains from oak leaves >>>> better, and not so much glare), it doesn't have to match the patio's
color or design. Slate and anything polished is probably out, for
traction-when-wet issues. Uneven surfaces are out because some of the >>>> "pedestrians" use wheels.
I really like Penrose[1] and Cairo[2] and Escheresque tilings, but
they're crazy expensive, if they even exist as stock items. I found
one guy selling the latter[3], but at $40-$60 each we're talking $10-$15 >>>> _thousand_ for the stones, not to mention the other associated costs
(this will be a DIY job). I was hoping for something in the hundreds. I >>>> found a place selling hexagonal stones[5], but at $6.50 each they come >>>> to about $1200. Too bad, I think they're cool.
I could get plain square red-brown stones[4] at Home Depot for under
$200, but that's boring. It turns out that very few places actually
want to sell me stones; most want to do it for me. That or my
google-fu sucks.
Any suggestions?
[0] http://imgur.com/Yk6zNCe The shed's the grey roof visible behind the >>>> bush.
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Penrose_tiling
[2] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cairo_pentagonal_tiling ; advantages >>>> include that it uses only one kind of tile, and that the one is
convex.
[3] http://www.geckostone.com/
[4] http://www.homedepot.com/p/100333084
[5] http://carrollsbuildingmaterials.com/landscape-products/pavers-profiles-finishes/classic-hexagon-pavers/
even get it pattern stamped for variety. You've only got 180 sqft.
That's going to need less than 2 yards of concrete, or, if you want it
4" thick, it would take 180 80' bags of redimix at about 3-4 per bag.
You can probably hire it done for less than $6 per sqft.
Because concrete has a short shelf life at least around here. Too much
freezing, defrosting, cracking.
On Fri, 25 Mar 2016 20:49:07 -0500, Tim Wright wrote:
On 3/25/2016 6:40 PM, Hactar wrote:
Not the social group kind, the stone kind.Why not just do concrete? You can stain it any color you like, you can
I need to lay down a walkway to the shed[0]. The path needs to be about >>> 3' wide and it's about 60' from the patio to the shed, with a few turns. >>> While I'd like it to be darkish (hides tannic acid stains from oak leaves >>> better, and not so much glare), it doesn't have to match the patio's
color or design. Slate and anything polished is probably out, for
traction-when-wet issues. Uneven surfaces are out because some of the
"pedestrians" use wheels.
I really like Penrose[1] and Cairo[2] and Escheresque tilings, but
they're crazy expensive, if they even exist as stock items. I found
one guy selling the latter[3], but at $40-$60 each we're talking $10-$15 >>> _thousand_ for the stones, not to mention the other associated costs
(this will be a DIY job). I was hoping for something in the hundreds. I >>> found a place selling hexagonal stones[5], but at $6.50 each they come
to about $1200. Too bad, I think they're cool.
I could get plain square red-brown stones[4] at Home Depot for under
$200, but that's boring. It turns out that very few places actually
want to sell me stones; most want to do it for me. That or my
google-fu sucks.
Any suggestions?
[0] http://imgur.com/Yk6zNCe The shed's the grey roof visible behind the >>> bush.
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Penrose_tiling
[2] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cairo_pentagonal_tiling ; advantages
include that it uses only one kind of tile, and that the one is
convex.
[3] http://www.geckostone.com/
[4] http://www.homedepot.com/p/100333084
[5] http://carrollsbuildingmaterials.com/landscape-products/pavers-profiles-finishes/classic-hexagon-pavers/
even get it pattern stamped for variety. You've only got 180 sqft.
That's going to need less than 2 yards of concrete, or, if you want it
4" thick, it would take 180 80' bags of redimix at about 3-4 per bag.
You can probably hire it done for less than $6 per sqft.
Because concrete has a short shelf life at least around here. Too much freezing, defrosting, cracking.
On Fri, 25 Mar 2016 19:40:42 -0400, Hactar wrote:
Not the social group kind, the stone kind.
I could get plain square red-brown stones[4] at Home Depot for under
$200, but that's boring. It turns out that very few places actually
want to sell me stones; most want to do it for me. That or my
google-fu sucks.
Any suggestions?
[4] http://www.homedepot.com/p/100333084
We were just talking about this tonight. The concrete path out to the back is in very sad shape. I think we're going with your option #4 because,
shit, we're not made out of money.
I found a place[1] that sells hexagon molds. They're 16" across the
flats, which (if my geometry is correct) gives them an area of 4.6 ft^2. They'd need about one 80lb bag of concrete mix[2] each, which makes them about [$400]. Not bad.
[1] http://www.moldcreations.com/16in-Hexagon-Mold-2033-p/2033.htm
[2] http://www.homedepot.com/p/100350291
In article <yrfzbaqirevmbaarg.o4msr57.pminews@192.168.0.6>,
Lesmond <lesmond@verizon.net> wrote:
On Fri, 25 Mar 2016 20:49:07 -0500, Tim Wright wrote:
On 3/25/2016 6:40 PM, Hactar wrote:http://carrollsbuildingmaterials.com/landscape-products/pavers-profiles-finishes/classic-hexagon-pavers/
Not the social group kind, the stone kind.
I need to lay down a walkway to the shed[0]. The path needs to be about >> >> 3' wide and it's about 60' from the patio to the shed, with a few turns. >> >> While I'd like it to be darkish (hides tannic acid stains from oak leaves >> >> better, and not so much glare), it doesn't have to match the patio's
color or design. Slate and anything polished is probably out, for
traction-when-wet issues. Uneven surfaces are out because some of the
"pedestrians" use wheels.
I really like Penrose[1] and Cairo[2] and Escheresque tilings, but
they're crazy expensive, if they even exist as stock items. I found
one guy selling the latter[3], but at $40-$60 each we're talking $10-$15 >> >> _thousand_ for the stones, not to mention the other associated costs
(this will be a DIY job). I was hoping for something in the hundreds. I >> >> found a place selling hexagonal stones[5], but at $6.50 each they come
to about $1200. Too bad, I think they're cool.
I could get plain square red-brown stones[4] at Home Depot for under
$200, but that's boring. It turns out that very few places actually
want to sell me stones; most want to do it for me. That or my
google-fu sucks.
Any suggestions?
[0] http://imgur.com/Yk6zNCe The shed's the grey roof visible behind the >> >> bush.
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Penrose_tiling
[2] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cairo_pentagonal_tiling ; advantages
include that it uses only one kind of tile, and that the one is
convex.
[3] http://www.geckostone.com/
[4] http://www.homedepot.com/p/100333084
[5]
Why not just do concrete? You can stain it any color you like, you can
even get it pattern stamped for variety. You've only got 180 sqft.
That's going to need less than 2 yards of concrete, or, if you want it
4" thick, it would take 180 80' bags of redimix at about 3-4 per bag.
You can probably hire it done for less than $6 per sqft.
Because concrete has a short shelf life at least around here. Too much
freezing, defrosting, cracking.
Not worried about freezing. It might freeze 2-3 times per year. Tree
roots, however, are a concrete-killer.
On Fri, 25 Mar 2016 20:49:07 -0500, Tim Wright wrote:
On 3/25/2016 6:40 PM, Hactar wrote:
Not the social group kind, the stone kind.Why not just do concrete? You can stain it any color you like, you can >even get it pattern stamped for variety. You've only got 180 sqft.
I need to lay down a walkway to the shed[0]. The path needs to be about >> 3' wide and it's about 60' from the patio to the shed, with a few turns. >> While I'd like it to be darkish (hides tannic acid stains from oak leaves >> better, and not so much glare), it doesn't have to match the patio's
color or design. Slate and anything polished is probably out, for
traction-when-wet issues. Uneven surfaces are out because some of the
"pedestrians" use wheels.
I really like Penrose[1] and Cairo[2] and Escheresque tilings, but
they're crazy expensive, if they even exist as stock items. I found
one guy selling the latter[3], but at $40-$60 each we're talking $10-$15 >> _thousand_ for the stones, not to mention the other associated costs
(this will be a DIY job). I was hoping for something in the hundreds. I >> found a place selling hexagonal stones[5], but at $6.50 each they come
to about $1200. Too bad, I think they're cool.
I could get plain square red-brown stones[4] at Home Depot for under
$200, but that's boring. It turns out that very few places actually
want to sell me stones; most want to do it for me. That or my
google-fu sucks.
Any suggestions?
[0] http://imgur.com/Yk6zNCe The shed's the grey roof visible behind the >> bush.
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Penrose_tiling
[2] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cairo_pentagonal_tiling ; advantages
include that it uses only one kind of tile, and that the one is
convex.
[3] http://www.geckostone.com/
[4] http://www.homedepot.com/p/100333084
[5] http://carrollsbuildingmaterials.com/landscape-products/pavers-profiles-finishes/classic-hexagon-pavers/
That's going to need less than 2 yards of concrete, or, if you want it
4" thick, it would take 180 80' bags of redimix at about 3-4 per bag.
You can probably hire it done for less than $6 per sqft.
Because concrete has a short shelf life at least around here. Too much freezing, defrosting, cracking.
In article <gqlhsc-u4m.ln1@pc.home>, Hactar <ebenZEROONE@verizon.net> wrote:
I found a place[1] that sells hexagon molds. They're 16" across the
flats, which (if my geometry is correct) gives them an area of 4.6 ft^2.
They'd need about one 80lb bag of concrete mix[2] each, which makes them
about [$400]. Not bad.
[1] http://www.moldcreations.com/16in-Hexagon-Mold-2033-p/2033.htm
[2] http://www.homedepot.com/p/100350291
I found a smaller, thinner mold[1] for a lot less. 12" across the
flats, looks like 1" thick. I think we'll need around 150 stones, which works out to around 1.5 tons of sackrete, I think. I have a few
questions:
1a. How long after pouring could I dump the concrete out of the mold to
cure, and re-use the mold?
1b. How long after pouring can I put it in place/walk on it?
1c. If 1b > 1 hour, can I stack up uncured concrete with an air gap in
between? How high can the stack be? Should I aim a fan at the stack?
2. How long does pourable concrete "keep", assuming I keep stirring it?
3a. Would 1" thick be strong enough for foot traffic?
3b. Would I need to add a metal mesh to the mold for strength?
Thanks. I'm trying to figure out how long this would take and how much
work it would be.
[1] http://www.ebay.com/itm/291708773867
On 3/27/2016 3:19 PM, Hactar wrote:
In article <bfydnYR-Fcd9s2XLnZ2dnUU7-U_NnZ2d@supernews.com>,
Tim Wright <tlwright6x@gmail.com> wrote:
It's going to be a lot of work. Concrete is heavy, it needs to mixed
thoroughly, and it doesn't need as much water as you may think. One 80lb >> bag is one third of a cubic foot or 576 cubic inches.
Sure about that? In the bag I linked to it says "1 bag yields .60 cubic feet with 4 qts (3.7 L) of water". Nobody here can lift an 80 lb bag, so
I figure we'll have them delivered, then scoop it out to mix it. I'll probably mix it in a 5 gallon bucket using a drill-powered stirrer.
I don't know what to say. All I've ever used said it was 1/3 cubic foot
per bag. Maybe it's different now, it's been quite some time since I
bought redimix.
Post a link to the mix you're looking at, please. Not disputing what
you're saying, just curious.
[2] http://www.homedepot.com/p/100350291
On 3/27/2016 12:06 PM, Hactar wrote:
In article <gqlhsc-u4m.ln1@pc.home>, Hactar<ebenZEROONE@verizon.net> wrote:
I found a place[1] that sells hexagon molds. They're 16" across the
flats, which (if my geometry is correct) gives them an area of 4.6 ft^2. >> They'd need about one 80lb bag of concrete mix[2] each, which makes them >> about [$400]. Not bad.
[1] http://www.moldcreations.com/16in-Hexagon-Mold-2033-p/2033.htm
[2] http://www.homedepot.com/p/100350291
I found a smaller, thinner mold[1] for a lot less. 12" across the
flats, looks like 1" thick. I think we'll need around 150 stones, which works out to around 1.5 tons of sackrete, I think. I have a few
questions:
1a. How long after pouring could I dump the concrete out of the mold to
cure, and re-use the mold?
I'd give it 24 hours.
1b. How long after pouring can I put it in place/walk on it?
I'd give it an additional 24 hours.
1c. If 1b > 1 hour, can I stack up uncured concrete with an air gap in
between? How high can the stack be? Should I aim a fan at the stack?
Concrete sets, it doesn't dry. No need for an air gap, it is a chemical reaction. Concrete will set under water.
2. How long does pourable concrete "keep", assuming I keep stirring it?
It depends on the mix. I'd try to use it within an hour.
3a. Would 1" thick be strong enough for foot traffic?
Should be
3b. Would I need to add a metal mesh to the mold for strength?
Probably not needed, as long as it is placed on flat ground.
Thanks. I'm trying to figure out how long this would take and how much work it would be.
It's going to be a lot of work. Concrete is heavy, it needs to mixed thoroughly, and it doesn't need as much water as you may think. One 80lb
bag is one third of a cubic foot or 576 cubic inches.
[1] http://www.ebay.com/itm/291708773867
Looking at the the mold, it's going to take about 374 cubic inches of
mix. You'll get less waste if you buy 3 molds, which will consume 2 80#
bags of concrete. On some tiles you'll want to get a thin piece of
plywood to divide the mold in half so you can have straight edges for
the ends and edges.
If my math is wrong, someone will be along in a bit to correct me.
In article <bfydnYR-Fcd9s2XLnZ2dnUU7-U_NnZ2d@supernews.com>,
Tim Wright <tlwright6x@gmail.com> wrote:
On 3/27/2016 12:06 PM, Hactar wrote:
In article <gqlhsc-u4m.ln1@pc.home>, Hactar<ebenZEROONE@verizon.net> wrote:
I found a place[1] that sells hexagon molds. They're 16" across the
flats, which (if my geometry is correct) gives them an area of 4.6 ft^2. >>>> They'd need about one 80lb bag of concrete mix[2] each, which makes them >>>> about [$400]. Not bad.
[1] http://www.moldcreations.com/16in-Hexagon-Mold-2033-p/2033.htm
[2] http://www.homedepot.com/p/100350291
I found a smaller, thinner mold[1] for a lot less. 12" across the
flats, looks like 1" thick. I think we'll need around 150 stones, which >>> works out to around 1.5 tons of sackrete, I think. I have a few
questions:
1a. How long after pouring could I dump the concrete out of the mold to
cure, and re-use the mold?
I'd give it 24 hours.
1b. How long after pouring can I put it in place/walk on it?
I'd give it an additional 24 hours.
OK, so lay the ones I poured two days ago (or at least stack them up to
be lain), un-mold the ones I poured yesterday, pour, then walk away until tomorrow.
1c. If 1b > 1 hour, can I stack up uncured concrete with an air gap inConcrete sets, it doesn't dry. No need for an air gap, it is a chemical
between? How high can the stack be? Should I aim a fan at the stack? >>
reaction. Concrete will set under water.
Noted. Not even for cooling?
2. How long does pourable concrete "keep", assuming I keep stirring it?
It depends on the mix. I'd try to use it within an hour.
That's its "working time"? This one says 45 minutes, so that's how long
I have once I add the water, correct?
3a. Would 1" thick be strong enough for foot traffic?
Should be
3b. Would I need to add a metal mesh to the mold for strength?
Probably not needed, as long as it is placed on flat ground.
Good, that makes it simpler.
Thanks. I'm trying to figure out how long this would take and how much
work it would be.
It's going to be a lot of work. Concrete is heavy, it needs to mixed
thoroughly, and it doesn't need as much water as you may think. One 80lb
bag is one third of a cubic foot or 576 cubic inches.
Sure about that? In the bag I linked to it says "1 bag yields .60 cubic
feet with 4 qts (3.7 L) of water". Nobody here can lift an 80 lb bag, so
I figure we'll have them delivered, then scoop it out to mix it. I'll probably mix it in a 5 gallon bucket using a drill-powered stirrer.
[1] http://www.ebay.com/itm/291708773867Looking at the the mold, it's going to take about 374 cubic inches of
mix. You'll get less waste if you buy 3 molds, which will consume 2 80#
bags of concrete. On some tiles you'll want to get a thin piece of
plywood to divide the mold in half so you can have straight edges for
the ends and edges.
Yes, that's easier than getting a concrete saw. Maybe I'll use a thin divider to get two at once. Waxed paper around a notecard?
If my math is wrong, someone will be along in a bit to correct me.
That's OK, I might be wrong too. My geometry tells me
A = d^2 * 2 sqrt(3) in^2 for the mold area which would be 499 in^2, so
at 1" thick that gives 0.289 ft^3. One bag minus two molds leaves
0.022 ft^3 behind, which is bupkis. Did my geometry fail me?
...
OK, Wikipedia[1] says A = d^2 * sqrt(3)/2 = 125 in^2, so V = 0.072 ft^3.
That means I can get 8 from each bag, with 39 in^3 left over, which is
not bupkis. Maybe I need to work out exactly how much powder and water
it takes to make however many molds I have, then mark scoops with that.
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hexagon#Regular_hexagon
In article <BPmdnZXH29igz2XLnZ2dnUU7-UvNnZ2d@supernews.com>,
Tim Wright <tlwright6x@gmail.com> wrote:
On 3/27/2016 3:19 PM, Hactar wrote:
In article <bfydnYR-Fcd9s2XLnZ2dnUU7-U_NnZ2d@supernews.com>,
Tim Wright <tlwright6x@gmail.com> wrote:
It's going to be a lot of work. Concrete is heavy, it needs to mixed
thoroughly, and it doesn't need as much water as you may think. One 80lb >>>> bag is one third of a cubic foot or 576 cubic inches.
Sure about that? In the bag I linked to it says "1 bag yields .60 cubic >>> feet with 4 qts (3.7 L) of water". Nobody here can lift an 80 lb bag, so >>> I figure we'll have them delivered, then scoop it out to mix it. I'll
probably mix it in a 5 gallon bucket using a drill-powered stirrer.
I don't know what to say. All I've ever used said it was 1/3 cubic foot
per bag. Maybe it's different now, it's been quite some time since I
bought redimix.
Maybe it's a misprint on the website, maybe you're assuming 40 lbs per bag.
Post a link to the mix you're looking at, please. Not disputing what
you're saying, just curious.
This one:
[2] http://www.homedepot.com/p/100350291
Concrete sets, it doesn't dry. No need for an air gap, it is a chemical >reaction. Concrete will set under water.
On Sun, 27 Mar 2016 13:06:55 -0400, ebenZEROONE@verizon.net (Hactar)
wrote:
I found a smaller, thinner mold[1] for a lot less. 12" across the
flats, looks like 1" thick. I think we'll need around 150 stones, which >works out to around 1.5 tons of sackrete, I think. I have a few
questions:
1a. How long after pouring could I dump the concrete out of the mold to
cure, and re-use the mold?
1b. How long after pouring can I put it in place/walk on it?
1c. If 1b > 1 hour, can I stack up uncured concrete with an air gap in
between? How high can the stack be? Should I aim a fan at the stack?
2. How long does pourable concrete "keep", assuming I keep stirring it?
3a. Would 1" thick be strong enough for foot traffic?
3b. Would I need to add a metal mesh to the mold for strength?
Thanks. I'm trying to figure out how long this would take and how much >work it would be.
[1] http://www.ebay.com/itm/291708773867
You received your answers from someone else, but I have a question for
you: are you planning to do all of this concrete mixing and pouring
yourself or will you be hiring someone to do it? I did a small
portion of a patio using 50 lb. sacks of concrete mix. It was
back-breaking work when I was younger and stronger, so how are you
planning to accomplish this as a do-it-yourself project.
The mix will heat as it cures, but for something thin like your stepping stones, that isn't a problem. For something thick like Hoover Dam, it is a major factor.
On 3/27/2016 12:06 PM, Hactar wrote:
In article <gqlhsc-u4m.ln1@pc.home>, Hactar <ebenZEROONE@verizon.net> wrote:
I found a place[1] that sells hexagon molds. They're 16" across the
flats, which (if my geometry is correct) gives them an area of 4.6 ft^2. >> They'd need about one 80lb bag of concrete mix[2] each, which makes them >> about [$400]. Not bad.
[1] http://www.moldcreations.com/16in-Hexagon-Mold-2033-p/2033.htm
[2] http://www.homedepot.com/p/100350291
I found a smaller, thinner mold[1] for a lot less. 12" across the
flats, looks like 1" thick. I think we'll need around 150 stones, which works out to around 1.5 tons of sackrete, I think. I have a few
questions:
1a. How long after pouring could I dump the concrete out of the mold to
cure, and re-use the mold?
I'd give it 24 hours.
1b. How long after pouring can I put it in place/walk on it?
I'd give it an additional 24 hours.
1c. If 1b > 1 hour, can I stack up uncured concrete with an air gap in
between? How high can the stack be? Should I aim a fan at the stack?
Concrete sets, it doesn't dry. No need for an air gap, it is a chemical reaction. Concrete will set under water.
2. How long does pourable concrete "keep", assuming I keep stirring it?
It depends on the mix. I'd try to use it within an hour.
3a. Would 1" thick be strong enough for foot traffic?
Should be
3b. Would I need to add a metal mesh to the mold for strength?
Probably not needed, as long as it is placed on flat ground.
Thanks. I'm trying to figure out how long this would take and how much work it would be.
It's going to be a lot of work. Concrete is heavy, it needs to mixed thoroughly, and it doesn't need as much water as you may think. One 80lb
bag is one third of a cubic foot or 576 cubic inches.
[1] http://www.ebay.com/itm/291708773867
Looking at the the mold, it's going to take about 374 cubic inches of
mix. You'll get less waste if you buy 3 molds, which will consume 2 80#
bags of concrete. On some tiles you'll want to get a thin piece of
plywood to divide the mold in half so you can have straight edges for
the ends and edges.
If my math is wrong, someone will be along in a bit to correct me.
In article <a2ggfblf6bcqb1cs42kqj81d5ughim51re@4ax.com>,
Les Albert <lalbert1@aol.com> wrote:
On Sun, 27 Mar 2016 13:06:55 -0400, ebenZEROONE@verizon.net (Hactar)
wrote:
I found a smaller, thinner mold[1] for a lot less. 12" across the
flats, looks like 1" thick. I think we'll need around 150 stones, which >works out to around 1.5 tons of sackrete, I think. I have a few >questions:
1a. How long after pouring could I dump the concrete out of the mold to
cure, and re-use the mold?
1b. How long after pouring can I put it in place/walk on it?
1c. If 1b > 1 hour, can I stack up uncured concrete with an air gap in
between? How high can the stack be? Should I aim a fan at the stack?
2. How long does pourable concrete "keep", assuming I keep stirring it? >3a. Would 1" thick be strong enough for foot traffic?
3b. Would I need to add a metal mesh to the mold for strength?
Thanks. I'm trying to figure out how long this would take and how much >work it would be.
[1] http://www.ebay.com/itm/291708773867
You received your answers from someone else, but I have a question for
you: are you planning to do all of this concrete mixing and pouring yourself or will you be hiring someone to do it? I did a small
portion of a patio using 50 lb. sacks of concrete mix. It was back-breaking work when I was younger and stronger, so how are you
planning to accomplish this as a do-it-yourself project.
I don't know. The more scary stories I hear about it, the more I lean
toward pre-hardened stones. I've got a friend who has agreed to do the
grunt work for me for the price of cold beer. That seems more than fair
to me. Pouring concrete is something that takes a long time. I'd love
to get something unusual, but it's quite expensive.
Tim Wright <tlwright6x@gmail.com> wrote:
Concrete sets, it doesn't dry. No need for an air gap, it is a chemical >reaction. Concrete will set under water.
Doesn't it get too warm if it doesn't have an air gap to dump heat
into?
On 3/27/2016 3:19 PM, Hactar wrote:
In article <bfydnYR-Fcd9s2XLnZ2dnUU7-U_NnZ2d@supernews.com>,
Tim Wright <tlwright6x@gmail.com> wrote:
On 3/27/2016 12:06 PM, Hactar wrote:
In article <gqlhsc-u4m.ln1@pc.home>, Hactar<ebenZEROONE@verizon.net> wrote:
I found a place[1] that sells hexagon molds. They're 16" across the >>>> flats, which (if my geometry is correct) gives them an area of 4.6 ft^2. >>>> They'd need about one 80lb bag of concrete mix[2] each, which makes them >>>> about [$400]. Not bad.
[1] http://www.moldcreations.com/16in-Hexagon-Mold-2033-p/2033.htm
[2] http://www.homedepot.com/p/100350291
I found a smaller, thinner mold[1] for a lot less. 12" across the
flats, looks like 1" thick. I think we'll need around 150 stones, which >>> works out to around 1.5 tons of sackrete, I think. I have a few
questions:
1a. How long after pouring could I dump the concrete out of the mold to >>> cure, and re-use the mold?
I'd give it 24 hours.
1b. How long after pouring can I put it in place/walk on it?
I'd give it an additional 24 hours.
OK, so lay the ones I poured two days ago (or at least stack them up to
be lain), un-mold the ones I poured yesterday, pour, then walk away until tomorrow.
1c. If 1b > 1 hour, can I stack up uncured concrete with an air gap in >>> between? How high can the stack be? Should I aim a fan at the
stack?
Concrete sets, it doesn't dry. No need for an air gap, it is a chemical >> reaction. Concrete will set under water.
Noted. Not even for cooling?
The mix will heat as it cures, but for something thin like your stepping stones, that isn't a problem. For something thick like Hoover Dam, it
is a major factor.
2. How long does pourable concrete "keep", assuming I keep stirring it? >>It depends on the mix. I'd try to use it within an hour.
That's its "working time"? This one says 45 minutes, so that's how long
I have once I add the water, correct?
3a. Would 1" thick be strong enough for foot traffic?
Should be
3b. Would I need to add a metal mesh to the mold for strength?
Probably not needed, as long as it is placed on flat ground.
Good, that makes it simpler.
Thanks. I'm trying to figure out how long this would take and how much >>> work it would be.
It's going to be a lot of work. Concrete is heavy, it needs to mixed
thoroughly, and it doesn't need as much water as you may think. One 80lb >> bag is one third of a cubic foot or 576 cubic inches.
Sure about that? In the bag I linked to it says "1 bag yields .60 cubic feet with 4 qts (3.7 L) of water". Nobody here can lift an 80 lb bag, so
I figure we'll have them delivered, then scoop it out to mix it. I'll probably mix it in a 5 gallon bucket using a drill-powered stirrer.
I don't know what to say. All I've ever used said it was 1/3 cubic foot
per bag. Maybe it's different now, it's been quite some time since I
bought redimix.
[1] http://www.ebay.com/itm/291708773867Looking at the the mold, it's going to take about 374 cubic inches of
mix. You'll get less waste if you buy 3 molds, which will consume 2 80# >> bags of concrete. On some tiles you'll want to get a thin piece of
plywood to divide the mold in half so you can have straight edges for
the ends and edges.
Yes, that's easier than getting a concrete saw. Maybe I'll use a thin divider to get two at once. Waxed paper around a notecard?
If my math is wrong, someone will be along in a bit to correct me.
That's OK, I might be wrong too. My geometry tells me
A = d^2 * 2 sqrt(3) in^2 for the mold area which would be 499 in^2, so
at 1" thick that gives 0.289 ft^3. One bag minus two molds leaves
0.022 ft^3 behind, which is bupkis. Did my geometry fail me?
...
OK, Wikipedia[1] says A = d^2 * sqrt(3)/2 = 125 in^2, so V = 0.072 ft^3. That means I can get 8 from each bag, with 39 in^3 left over, which is
not bupkis. Maybe I need to work out exactly how much powder and water
it takes to make however many molds I have, then mark scoops with that.
[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hexagon#Regular_hexagon
Post a link to the mix you're looking at, please. Not disputing what
you're saying, just curious.
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