Any suggestions on how to make this easier?
In article <593cfa0e54dave@davenoise.co.uk>,
Dave Plowman (News) <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:
Any suggestions on how to make this easier?
Have you checked the dpi of the scan? The dark side often defaults to
72 dpi, whereas RISC OS assumes 90 dpi as default, (I think sprites
can only be multiples of 45 dpi, i.e. 45, 90, 180 dpi).
Look at the original dpi in DPScan before converting to a sprite -
you may have to scale it by 90/72 before converting.
In article <593cfa0e54dave@davenoise.co.uk>,
Dave Plowman (News) <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:
Any suggestions on how to make this easier?
Have you checked the dpi of the scan? The dark side often defaults to
72 dpi, whereas RISC OS assumes 90 dpi as default, (I think sprites
can only be multiples of 45 dpi, i.e. 45, 90, 180 dpi).
Right. I'll try that. Although I'd like a rather higher resolution.
On 15/06/2021 15:32, News wrote:
In article <593cfa0e54dave@davenoise.co.uk>,
Dave Plowman (News) <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:
Any suggestions on how to make this easier?
Have you checked the dpi of the scan? The dark side often defaults to
72 dpi, whereas RISC OS assumes 90 dpi as default, (I think sprites
can only be multiples of 45 dpi, i.e. 45, 90, 180 dpi).
Those are the nominal dpi's of the screen on Windows and RISC OS. For a
scan you should set the dpi of the image file to match what the scanner
has been set to. e.g. 300
In article <593d0a551fdave@davenoise.co.uk>,
Dave Plowman (News) <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:
Right. I'll try that. Although I'd like a rather higher resolution.
OK Dave. I think if you are using sprite format you are limited in
the available dpi.
What are the allowable scan dpis on the scanner? My old Epson allowed
180, 360, 720 dpi among others. I think you have to allow for the
fact that the sprite format allows only a limited number of dpis and
will default to 90dpi if not told otherwise.
Investigate the following. If you scan at say 360 dpi, then scaling
by two before converting to sprite will allow a sprite of 180 dpi at
'real' size. I assume ProCad will deal with sprites that are not the
default 90 dpi. Scanning at 720 dpi would need a scaling of four.
On occasion, I've wished to copy a PCB. Using the trusty old Epson GT9500
and DPingScan, I could scan it and drop it straight into ProCad+ and it
was exact real size. Then do the artwork for a copy.
But now, with an Epson XP 415, any scan has to be done on the dark side
and transferred to ProCad+. And have the file changed to a Sprite too.
Using DPingScan. Native is Tiff, BMP, or JPEG. and always has to be
re-sized, and often impossible to get spot on.
Any suggestions on how to make this easier?
In article <593cfa0e54dave@davenoise.co.uk>,
Dave Plowman (News) <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:
On occasion, I've wished to copy a PCB. Using the trusty old Epson GT9500 and DPingScan, I could scan it and drop it straight into ProCad+ and it
was exact real size. Then do the artwork for a copy.
But now, with an Epson XP 415, any scan has to be done on the dark side
and transferred to ProCad+. And have the file changed to a Sprite too. Using DPingScan. Native is Tiff, BMP, or JPEG. and always has to be re-sized, and often impossible to get spot on.
Any suggestions on how to make this easier?
I scan to JPEG, load into !Openvector and trace. I then load into Draw+
and make any ammendments I wish to make.
In article <saakfh$fdd$1@dont-email.me>,
druck <news@druck.org.uk> wrote:
Those are the nominal dpi's of the screen on Windows and RISC OS. For a
scan you should set the dpi of the image file to match what the scanner
has been set to. e.g. 300
To load into ProCad+, it has to be a Sprite. If I set DPingScan to the dpi the scanner is set to and then save that out as a Sprite, the size is
wrong in ProCad.
I scan to JPEG, load into !Openvector and trace. I then load into Draw+
and make any ammendments I wish to make.
Does Draw+ produce the Gerber files needed for auto production?
In article <593d7eec5fdave@davenoise.co.uk>,
Dave Plowman (News) <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:
I scan to JPEG, load into !Openvector and trace. I then load into Draw+ and make any ammendments I wish to make.
Does Draw+ produce the Gerber files needed for auto production?
No but draw files can be loaded into ProCad+
In article <593d90fe0fSpambin@argonet.co.uk>,
Stuart <Spambin@argonet.co.uk> wrote:
In article <593d7eec5fdave@davenoise.co.uk>,
Dave Plowman (News) <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:
I scan to JPEG, load into !Openvector and trace. I then load into Draw+ and make any ammendments I wish to make.
Does Draw+ produce the Gerber files needed for auto production?
No but draw files can be loaded into ProCad+
They can, but I like Procad.
In article <593d95a87edave@davenoise.co.uk>,
Dave Plowman (News) <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:
In article <593d90fe0fSpambin@argonet.co.uk>,
Stuart <Spambin@argonet.co.uk> wrote:
In article <593d7eec5fdave@davenoise.co.uk>,
Dave Plowman (News) <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:
I scan to JPEG, load into !Openvector and trace. I then load into Draw+
and make any ammendments I wish to make.
Does Draw+ produce the Gerber files needed for auto production?
No but draw files can be loaded into ProCad+
They can, but I like Procad.
I use it too, different software has different attributes, strong points
and uses.
I was simply suggesting an alternative route that might solve your issue.
Personally, I still produce all my PCBs from masks I print out from Draw+
Personally, I still produce all my PCBs from masks I print out from
Draw+
Any draw prog is OK for that. So the one you prefer best of all. But
since it's now so cheap to get PCBs made from a Gerber file I've given
up doing it at home.
In article <593e6d4798Spambin@argonet.co.uk>,
Stuart <Spambin@argonet.co.uk> wrote:
I've never considered the idea of getting PCBs made though I can see many advantages in doing so. What would be the cost of a typical double-sided 100x220mm board?
Not had any made recently. But getting a double sided or layered board,
ready drilled, with printed legends and solder resist coated is simply something I can't do at home.
Google will find you plenty of prices. Obviously the price per unit comes down drastically with quantity.
Of course I'm getting old, so the fiddle of making my own from scratch not
so appealing as once.
In article <593e39410adave@davenoise.co.uk>,
Dave Plowman (News) <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:
Personally, I still produce all my PCBs from masks I print out from
Draw+
Any draw prog is OK for that. So the one you prefer best of all. But
since it's now so cheap to get PCBs made from a Gerber file I've given
up doing it at home.
To an extent you are correct but to me the advantages of Draw+ are:
1) a 0.1" grid matrix visible on the screen and the ability to lock to a fraction of the grid. For example, when laying out IC pads I lock to the
0.1 and when laying tracks I usually lock to grid/4, i.e. 0.025, though almost any fraction is possible. Internally, the programme records
positions in O.S. units and I can, if necessary, swap the grid between
inch and metric on the same drawing without anything moving.
2) Layers so that I can have "copper side" tracks on one layer,
"component side" tracks on another layer, components on a different
layer and so on. I build up all PCBs as if looking down on the component layer then separate and reverse the "component side" track layer before printing.
3) Libraries of component footprints which allow the instant placing
of, for example, pads for ICs and I have built up an extensive library already.
I know much, if not all, of this can be done with Procad but I have
always found moving stuff around the screen to a new position with
Procad to be far, far, more difficult.
!Open Vector, which I mentioned, can also do much of the above but does
not have quite the same facilities regarding the grid. On the other hand,
it can load and manipulate JPEGs directly allowing easy tracing of
magazine track layouts.
I've never considered the idea of getting PCBs made though I can see many advantages in doing so. What would be the cost of a typical double-sided 100x220mm board?
"Dave Plowman (News)" <da...@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:I also purchased some parts on chimicron.com, and they will be shipped on the same day as the order. Shipping is also fast!
In article <593e6d47...@argonet.co.uk>,
Stuart <Spa...@argonet.co.uk> wrote:
I've never considered the idea of getting PCBs made though I can see many
advantages in doing so. What would be the cost of a typical double-sided 100x220mm board?
Not had any made recently. But getting a double sided or layered board, ready drilled, with printed legends and solder resist coated is simply something I can't do at home.
Google will find you plenty of prices. Obviously the price per unit comes down drastically with quantity.We put most of ours through jlcpcb.com, who are based in Shenzhen. Shipping is usually a few weeks from China, although we usually pay more for DHL shipping.
100x220 is quite large, but for double sided they quote $12.80 for 5 pieces and $7.44 for shipping (8-20 business days). It's another $11.44 for DHL Express (4-6 business days). Roundtrip with DHL including manufacturing and shipping time is usually about 10 calendar days (ie order Sunday night of week 1, arrive by Friday of week 2, bearing in mind they're 8 hours ahead).
Quality is good - not like some bargain-basement Chinese boards you might find. Their solder stencils are good too. They have 4 and 6 layer flows at
a modest price bump should you need them.
They do assembly, but we haven't used them for that (yet). They also have a components arm are called lcsc.com who are a bit like a Chinese Farnell, and they can bundle components in with your PCB order.
Of course I'm getting old, so the fiddle of making my own from scratch not so appealing as once.At those prices it's not worth the hassle of making your own, unless you're in a great hurry.
Theo
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