• RPC battery.

    From Dave Plowman (News)@21:1/5 to All on Wed May 5 15:50:21 2021
    Looks like mine has failed. For the second time it has lost the date etc
    at boot.

    What's the best replacement and source these days?

    --
    *Ever stop to think and forget to start again?

    Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
    To e-mail, change noise into sound.

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  • From Chris Hughes@21:1/5 to dave@davenoise.co.uk on Wed May 5 15:54:08 2021
    In message <5927e66da0dave@davenoise.co.uk>
    "Dave Plowman (News)" <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:

    Looks like mine has failed. For the second time it has lost the date etc
    at boot.

    What's the best replacement and source these days?

    Probably CJE Micros



    --
    Chris Hughes

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  • From Steve Fryatt@21:1/5 to Chris Hughes on Wed May 5 19:05:18 2021
    On 5 May, Chris Hughes wrote in message
    <9fc6e62759.chris@mytarbis.plus.com>:

    In message <5927e66da0dave@davenoise.co.uk>
    "Dave Plowman (News)" <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:

    Looks like mine has failed. For the second time it has lost the date etc
    at boot.

    What's the best replacement and source these days?

    Probably CJE Micros

    I thought the general consensus was a AA or AAA battery holder on flying
    leads, well away from the PCB, and a suitable rechargable cell.

    If you google this from several years ago, ISTR that I concluded that at the charge currents used by the RPC, it was fine to continuously trickle-charge NiMH cells (but whether I did that for AA and AAA cells is another matter).

    --
    Steve Fryatt - Leeds, England

    http://www.stevefryatt.org.uk/

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  • From Alan Griffin@21:1/5 to dave@davenoise.co.uk on Wed May 5 16:17:26 2021
    In article <5927e66da0dave@davenoise.co.uk>,
    Dave Plowman (News) <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:
    Looks like mine has failed. For the second time it has lost the date
    etc at boot.

    What's the best replacement and source these days?

    I just use an AA rechargeable battery with a lead connecting it to
    where the old battery used to be.
    Alan

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  • From Dave@21:1/5 to Dave on Wed May 5 21:14:57 2021
    In article <592803696bdave@triffid.co.uk>,
    Dave <dave@triffid.co.uk> wrote:
    In article <5927e8e899ajg@argonet.co.uk>,
    Alan Griffin <ajg@argonet.co.uk> wrote:
    In article <5927e66da0dave@davenoise.co.uk>,
    Dave Plowman (News) <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:
    Looks like mine has failed. For the second time it has lost the date
    etc at boot.

    What's the best replacement and source these days?

    I just use an AA rechargeable battery with a lead connecting it to
    where the old battery used to be.
    Alan

    Same here... On my old SARPC (Purchased in early 1995 and still working)
    I removed the battery from the MOBO many years ago, soldered in leads
    that come up to the gulley at the front top of the two slices, fitted an
    AA battery holder and a rechargeable battery... Never had any problems
    with it.

    Dave

    Had a vague memory...
    'Wunce upon a tyme...' There was an illustrated guide/howto on Bernard
    Veasey's bapfish website about the CMOS battery replacement/moving.

    Dave

    --

    Dave Triffid

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  • From Dave@21:1/5 to Alan Griffin on Wed May 5 21:06:55 2021
    In article <5927e8e899ajg@argonet.co.uk>,
    Alan Griffin <ajg@argonet.co.uk> wrote:
    In article <5927e66da0dave@davenoise.co.uk>,
    Dave Plowman (News) <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:
    Looks like mine has failed. For the second time it has lost the date
    etc at boot.

    What's the best replacement and source these days?

    I just use an AA rechargeable battery with a lead connecting it to
    where the old battery used to be.
    Alan

    Same here...
    On my old SARPC (Purchased in early 1995 and still working) I removed the battery from the MOBO many years ago, soldered in leads that come up to
    the gulley at the front top of the two slices, fitted an AA battery holder
    and a rechargeable battery... Never had any problems with it.

    Dave

    --

    Dave Triffid

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Stuart@21:1/5 to Steve Fryatt on Wed May 5 22:33:07 2021
    In article <mpro.qsnbkp01a0m0101r0.news@stevefryatt.org.uk>,
    Steve Fryatt <news@stevefryatt.org.uk> wrote:
    Probably CJE Micros

    I thought the general consensus was a AA or AAA battery holder on flying leads, well away from the PCB, and a suitable rechargable cell.

    The only comment I would make is that it is a good idea to fully charge it first in a standard charger or it will take forever at the low current
    provided by the RPC

    --
    Stuart Winsor

    Tools With A Mission
    sending tools across the world
    http://www.twam.co.uk/

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Chris Evans (CJE/4D)@21:1/5 to URL:mailto:news@stevefryatt.org.uk on Wed May 12 16:56:07 2021
    In article <mpro.qsnbkp01a0m0101r0.news@stevefryatt.org.uk>, Steve Fryatt <URL:mailto:news@stevefryatt.org.uk> wrote:
    On 5 May, Chris Hughes wrote in message
    <9fc6e62759.chris@mytarbis.plus.com>:

    In message <5927e66da0dave@davenoise.co.uk>
    "Dave Plowman (News)" <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:

    Looks like mine has failed. For the second time it has lost the date etc at boot.

    I hope I'm wrong but normally by the time the battery stops keeping date and time, the horse has well an truly bolted with battery leakage having very
    badly damaged the motherboard.
    You might get away with a new plug in RTC see: http://www.cjemicros.co.uk/blog/?m=201309

    What's the best replacement and source these days?

    Probably CJE Micros

    I thought the general consensus was a AA or AAA battery holder on flying leads, well away from the PCB, and a suitable rechargable cell.

    We can supply 'remote batteries' or PCB attached!
    As we are still occasionally finding working original batteries that havn't leaked I suspect in another 20+ years time it won't be a battery fitted in
    2021 that will be stopping the computer!

    If you google this from several years ago, ISTR that I concluded that at the charge currents used by the RPC, it was fine to continuously trickle-charge NiMH cells (but whether I did that for AA and AAA cells is another matter).

    Chris Evans

    --

    ****** IGEPv5: The fastest RISC OS computer so far! *******
    ------------ http://www.cjemicros.co.uk/igepv5 ------------
    CJE Micro's 'Raspberry Pi & RISC OS Specialists'
    Tel: +44 (0)1903 523222
    chris@cjemicros.co.uk http://www.cjemicros.co.uk/
    Unit 16 Arunside Ind. Est., Fort Road, Littlehampton, W.Sussex BN17 7QU

    Don't let the urgent things in life, crowd out the important things!

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  • From Sebastian Barthel@21:1/5 to All on Sat Jun 5 12:37:05 2021
    Am Wed, 05 May 2021 21:14:57 +0100 schrieb Dave:

    'Wunce upon a tyme...' There was an illustrated guide/howto on Bernard Veasey's bapfish website


    https://www.bapfish.org.uk/cmos.htm

    and - until now - it stands the test of time.


    For the "original oriented" user, there is also a NiMH replacement
    Battery, wich is intended by Varta to replace the old batteries in place.
    It's called

    Varta CP 300H SLF

    <https://www.voelkner.de/products/1109/Varta-CP-300H-SLF-Knopfzellen- Akku-300H-NiMH-300-mAh-1.2V-1St..html>

    ( website for datasheets (UK) )


    But probably its a much better idea to separate the battery from the
    mainboard.


    If Your battery has signs of leakage, its unavoidable to remove the
    remnants from the mainboard. This is done by bathing this part of the
    board in vinegard (2%-5%) and wash it twice with de-ionised water
    afterwards. If its (really) dried it should be fit for another 125 years
    or so.

    Eventually it could be a good idea to take a photo of this part of the
    board and show it to the people here or in the forum at iconbar or at stardot.org.uk


    If the mainboard is defected then the CJE replacements are very fine and
    much easier to install, then a complete rearrangement and rebuilding of
    the SMD structures in the area of the realtime clock chip. And probably 'cheaper' - but this depends.

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  • From Stuart@21:1/5 to Sebastian Barthel on Sun Jun 6 11:22:47 2021
    In article <s9fr5h$adf$1@solani.org>,
    Sebastian Barthel <naitsabes@freenet.de> wrote:

    But probably its a much better idea to separate the battery from the mainboard.

    Everytime.

    --
    Stuart Winsor

    Tools With A Mission
    sending tools across the world
    http://www.twam.co.uk/

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Dave@21:1/5 to Stuart on Sun Jun 6 18:24:46 2021
    In article <593848ae87Spambin@argonet.co.uk>,
    Stuart <Spambin@argonet.co.uk> wrote:
    In article <s9fr5h$adf$1@solani.org>,
    Sebastian Barthel <naitsabes@freenet.de> wrote:

    But probably its a much better idea to separate the battery from the mainboard.

    Everytime.

    At least on the Other side, on my Win PCs the CMOS batteries can just be
    popped out of the holder and replaced, no soldering involved. :-)

    Done that a few times over the years...

    Dave

    --

    Dave Triffid

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