• John Gohde's shack is in a state of disrepair. Is he infirm?

    From DFS@21:1/5 to All on Sun Jan 14 22:39:58 2024
    https://www.google.com/maps/@37.4816197,-77.4500711,3a,37.7y,191.94h,90.02t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1s4cp6evBD62MCuR-mxIGOEw!2e0!7i16384!8i8192?entry=ttu


    As of Jul 2023 the mailbox still says 2827 Godhe, so he probably still
    owns it.

    Where is that nasty old geezer? He hasn't posted in a little over 3
    years. Probably overdosed on Vitamin D and is sitting in his chair with
    long hair and becoming mummified.

    Notice the crumbling stair treads, the weeds growing in the gutter and
    what appears to be cracked windows.


    To fix the stairs:
    * have Home Depot cut the new treads to length.
    * use a sawzall to cut the old treads down the middle, then lever them
    out. Or hammer up from the side.
    * remove all nails and screws.
    * very important: before installation, lightly sand the treads by hand
    all around with a sanding block. Water seal them, then stain
    them
    * squirt wood glue onto the stringer surface (the stringer is the zig-
    zag piece on which the treads rest).
    * press the new tread into place and put some weight on it for a few
    minutes. The glue won't set right away but it will help keep the
    tread in place.
    * stand on the tread and drill screw holes straight down through the
    tread and about 1" into the stringer
    * screw the 4" wood screws in (I'd go with qty 2 screws on each side of
    the tread)


    Hints for GodHesDumb:
    * before putting the new treads in, I would go under the porch and
    add some hangers or screws to strengthen the stringer connection to
    the porch
    * likely the railing will block you from putting screws in at 90
    degrees, so you probably should remove the bottom 2 rails and put
    them back in when you're done.
    * on your short height porch, I'd start from the bottom when removing
    and installing new stair treads. You'll need a certain amt of
    leverage and strength to drill holes and put the screws in, and
    standing on a new tread might help
    * leave your back door unlocked until the job is finished



    the building materials are inexpensive:

    1) 2"x10"x8' (or 2x12) pine boards at Lowes 3 @ $12 each = $36 https://www.lowes.com/pd/Top-Choice-2-in-x-12-in-x-8-ft-Southern-Yellow-Pine-Lumber-Common-1-5-in-x-11-25-in-x-8-ft-Actual/1000009752

    2) 4" flathead phillips wood screws, 4 per tread + spares $4 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Phillips-10-4-in-Phillips-Square-Flat-Head-Wood-Screws-25-Pack-25400/100348669

    3) $35 corded drill at Harbor Freight https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/drills-drivers/corded-drills-drivers/63-amp-12-in-variable-speed-drill-59519.html

    4) small drill bit to predrill the holes for the wood screws, plus a
    Phillips head drill bit. Total $5

    5) $55 corded reciprocating saw at Harbor Freight https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/power-saws/reciprocating-saws/10-amp-variable-speed-reciprocating-saw-56250.html

    The saw should come with at least one blade.

    6) some wood glue. $4 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gorilla-4-fl-oz-Wood-Glue-Epoxy-62020/306912991

    7) sanding block, wood stain and wood sealer $20


    $90 for power tools, $70 for materials. So total around $160 if you
    have to buy everything. Not bad at all for tools and new 2" treads,
    glued and screwed and solid. 1" treads might even do the job, but
    they'll flex some. The 2" definitely won't.

    You might also have a handyman come bid on the job, just to compare.

    DO NOT buy the cheapest power tools from Harbor Freight. They might not
    even make it through this small job.


    If you can't do it yourself, hire someone to clean the gutters and seal
    them. Otherwise water will find a way to get out of the gutter and into
    the house and cause serious damage.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From -hh@21:1/5 to DFS on Tue Jan 16 13:29:29 2024
    On Jan 14, 2024, DFS wrote
    (in article <6O1pN.117288$taff.110705@fx41.iad>):


    https://www.google.com/maps/@37.4816197,-77.4500711,3a,37.7y,191.94h,90.02t/da
    ta=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1s4cp6evBD62MCuR-mxIGOEw!2e0!7i16384!8i8192?entry=ttu

    As of Jul 2023 the mailbox still says 2827 Godhe, so he probably still
    owns it.

    Where is that nasty old geezer? He hasn't posted in a little over 3
    years. Probably overdosed on Vitamin D and is sitting in his chair with
    long hair and becoming mummified.

    Probably got tired of losing and wandered off after his PC crashed.

    -hh



    Notice the crumbling stair treads, the weeds growing in the gutter and
    what appears to be cracked windows.

    To fix the stairs:
    * have Home Depot cut the new treads to length.
    * use a sawzall to cut the old treads down the middle, then lever them
    out. Or hammer up from the side.
    * remove all nails and screws.
    * very important: before installation, lightly sand the treads by hand
    all around with a sanding block. Water seal them, then stain
    them
    * squirt wood glue onto the stringer surface (the stringer is the zig-
    zag piece on which the treads rest).
    * press the new tread into place and put some weight on it for a few
    minutes. The glue won't set right away but it will help keep the
    tread in place.
    * stand on the tread and drill screw holes straight down through the
    tread and about 1" into the stringer
    * screw the 4" wood screws in (I'd go with qty 2 screws on each side of
    the tread)

    Hints for GodHesDumb:
    * before putting the new treads in, I would go under the porch and
    add some hangers or screws to strengthen the stringer connection to
    the porch
    * likely the railing will block you from putting screws in at 90
    degrees, so you probably should remove the bottom 2 rails and put
    them back in when you're done.
    * on your short height porch, I'd start from the bottom when removing
    and installing new stair treads. You'll need a certain amt of
    leverage and strength to drill holes and put the screws in, and
    standing on a new tread might help
    * leave your back door unlocked until the job is finished

    the building materials are inexpensive:

    1) 2"x10"x8' (or 2x12) pine boards at Lowes 3 @ $12 each = $36 https://www.lowes.com/pd/Top-Choice-2-in-x-12-in-x-8-ft-Southern-Yellow-Pine-L
    umber-Common-1-5-in-x-11-25-in-x-8-ft-Actual/1000009752

    2) 4" flathead phillips wood screws, 4 per tread + spares $4 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Phillips-10-4-in-Phillips-Square-Flat-Head-Wood-Sc
    rews-25-Pack-25400/100348669

    3) $35 corded drill at Harbor Freight https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/drills-drivers/corded-drills-drivers
    /63-amp-12-in-variable-speed-drill-59519.html

    4) small drill bit to predrill the holes for the wood screws, plus a
    Phillips head drill bit. Total $5

    5) $55 corded reciprocating saw at Harbor Freight https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/power-saws/reciprocating-saws/10-amp
    -variable-speed-reciprocating-saw-56250.html

    The saw should come with at least one blade.

    6) some wood glue. $4 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gorilla-4-fl-oz-Wood-Glue-Epoxy-62020/306912991

    7) sanding block, wood stain and wood sealer $20

    $90 for power tools, $70 for materials. So total around $160 if you
    have to buy everything. Not bad at all for tools and new 2" treads,
    glued and screwed and solid. 1" treads might even do the job, but
    they'll flex some. The 2" definitely won't.

    You might also have a handyman come bid on the job, just to compare.

    DO NOT buy the cheapest power tools from Harbor Freight. They might not
    even make it through this small job.

    If you can't do it yourself, hire someone to clean the gutters and seal
    them. Otherwise water will find a way to get out of the gutter and into
    the house and cause serious damage.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)