• Poor reception

    From Jim the Geordie@21:1/5 to All on Mon Sep 4 19:21:29 2023
    Forgive me if I have the facts wrong but basically my old Samsung mobile
    is Android 4 (WCDMA/GSM if that means something to you) and gets better reception than my current Android 11 (LTE/3G/2G auto connect) in the
    same place on the same network.
    Is that to do with the aerial?
    Is there anything I can do about it beyond changing my phone?

    --
    Jim the Geordie

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Andy Burns@21:1/5 to Jim the Geordie on Mon Sep 4 19:58:05 2023
    Jim the Geordie wrote:

    Forgive me if I have the facts wrong but basically my old Samsung mobile
    is Android 4 (WCDMA/GSM if that means something to you) and gets better reception than my current Android 11 (LTE/3G/2G auto connect) in the
    same place on the same network.

    Well, it may get higher signal bars, but the best speed that'll reach on
    WCDMA is 2Mbps, where even a couple of bars of LTE will get you a few
    10's of Mbps

    A Jelly Bean 2.5G phone is not much more than a curio really ...

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  • From Wally J@21:1/5 to Andy Burns on Mon Sep 4 16:40:45 2023
    Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk> wrote

    Forgive me if I have the facts wrong but basically my old Samsung mobile
    is Android 4 (WCDMA/GSM if that means something to you) and gets better
    reception than my current Android 11 (LTE/3G/2G auto connect) in the
    same place on the same network.

    Well, it may get higher signal bars, but the best speed that'll reach on WCDMA is 2Mbps, where even a couple of bars of LTE will get you a few
    10's of Mbps

    A Jelly Bean 2.5G phone is not much more than a curio really ...

    Each time I get a new Android phone, I compare its Wi-Fi and cellular
    signal strength to the older Android phones to see if there's a difference.
    <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=make.more.r2d2.google.cellular_pro>

    There almost always is.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Carlos E. R.@21:1/5 to Jim the Geordie on Mon Sep 4 18:03:54 2023
    On 2023-09-04 14:21, Jim the Geordie wrote:

    Forgive me if I have the facts wrong but basically my old Samsung mobile
    is Android 4 (WCDMA/GSM if that means something to you) and gets better reception than my current Android 11 (LTE/3G/2G auto connect) in the
    same place on the same network.
    Is that to do with the aerial?
    Is there anything I can do about it beyond changing my phone?

    Possibly not using the same frequency bands, so the transmitters could
    be different ones or even at different sites.

    --
    Cheers,
    Carlos E.R.

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  • From Bodger@21:1/5 to Jim the Geordie on Mon Sep 4 18:16:50 2023
    On 9/4/2023 2:21 PM, Jim the Geordie wrote:

    Forgive me if I have the facts wrong but basically my old Samsung mobile
    is Android 4 (WCDMA/GSM if that means something to you) and gets better reception than my current Android 11 (LTE/3G/2G auto connect) in the
    same place on the same network.
    Is that to do with the aerial?
    Is there anything I can do about it beyond changing my phone?


    I would think that the hardware would make more difference than the Android version. You say that your older phone is a Samsung. Which model? What is
    the newer phone? I've been on the Nexus/Pixel train since Nexus S days and
    have never noted any change in reception due to OS changes but some phones
    were clearly better than others in weak-signal conditions. Local bands
    could, of course, make a difference but in a given geographic location from
    the same carrier I'd expect that to be less of a factor.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From VanguardLH@21:1/5 to Jim the Geordie on Mon Sep 4 21:55:56 2023
    Jim the Geordie <jim@jimXscott.co.uk> wrote:

    Forgive me if I have the facts wrong but basically my old Samsung mobile
    is Android 4 (WCDMA/GSM if that means something to you) and gets better reception than my current Android 11 (LTE/3G/2G auto connect) in the
    same place on the same network.
    Is that to do with the aerial?
    Is there anything I can do about it beyond changing my phone?

    Signal bars in the display are NOT how you measure signal strength. The
    bars are just an indicator, like a wind sock that points straight out
    tells you there is enough wind to raise the sock, but not how fast is
    the wind.

    Go into Android settings -> General -> About phone -> Network (your
    navpath may vary from mine). Look at the dBm measurement to compare
    signal strength on the 2 phones.

    You can also use an app to give your cellular info, like Network Cell
    Info. There are lite and full versions. I paid the $2 to get the full version.

    https://play.google.com/store/search?q=network+cell+info+lite&c=apps https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.wilysis.cellinfo

    You'll get far more info than you'll likely understand for a long time.
    One feature, map, will show to which cell tower the phone is connected. Possibly one phone connects to a different cell tower than the other
    phone, and distance causes signal attentuation as do obstructions
    between cell tower to phone. Both phones on the same cellular carrier
    does not mean both phones connect to the same cell tower.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Neil@21:1/5 to VanguardLH on Tue Sep 5 00:07:43 2023
    On 9/4/2023 10:55 PM, VanguardLH wrote:
    Signal bars in the display are NOT how you measure signal strength. The
    bars are just an indicator, like a wind sock that points straight out
    tells you there is enough wind to raise the sock, but not how fast is
    the wind.

    Agree with you the Wi-Fi status bars are almost useless for comparisons.
    They put them there for the mom & pop who don't know anything about Wi-Fi.

    Go into Android settings -> General -> About phone -> Network (your
    navpath may vary from mine). Look at the dBm measurement to compare
    signal strength on the 2 phones.

    Even better, the newer Androids tell you the signal strength in decibels
    right where you do the normal Wi-Fi connection - for _all_ your SSIDs.

    You also get channel and MAC address and a lot of other information.

    On my phone, it's set in the Android 12 Developer options Settings area. Settings > Developer options > Enable Wi-Fi Verbose logging = on/off
    "Increase Wi-Fi logging level, show per SSID RSSI in Wi-Fi Picker"

    You can also use an app to give your cellular info, like Network Cell
    Info. There are lite and full versions. I paid the $2 to get the full version.
    https://play.google.com/store/search?q=network+cell+info+lite&c=apps https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.wilysis.cellinfo

    Lots of apps to choose which report the Wi-Fi & cellular signal strength. https://play.google.com/store/search?q=wi-fi+signal+strength+meter&c=apps

    You'll get far more info than you'll likely understand for a long time.
    One feature, map, will show to which cell tower the phone is connected.

    While that is correct, it's only approximate since nobody but the cell
    tower companies has an _accurate_ map of where all the cell towers are.

    It's a guess. Probably not a bad guess. But it's a guess nonetheless.

    Possibly one phone connects to a different cell tower than the other
    phone, and distance causes signal attentuation as do obstructions
    between cell tower to phone.

    Personally, I'd never in a million years buy an app that I didn't test out
    the freeware alternatives first - since usually you don't need any money.

    Looking at the dozen Wi-Fi signal analyzers that came up, all but a few had
    ads or cost money - but this one says that it's free and open source. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer

    These are also free without ads but they're not open source applications. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ubnt.usurvey https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.manageengine.wifimonitor

    This one is also free without ads & it maps out your home Wi-Fi signal. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.etwok.netspotapp

    Both phones on the same cellular carrier
    does not mean both phones connect to the same cell tower.

    Most of the Wi-Fi analyzers tell you the unique tower ID, which can be a
    local femto/micro cell in someone's house or inside of a large building.

    They also tell you the sector ID, and the frequency band, where what you
    say is true - that just knowing the tower doesn't mean the same antenna.
    --
    regards,
    Neil

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  • From Carlos E. R.@21:1/5 to Bodger on Mon Sep 4 23:19:21 2023
    On 2023-09-04 18:16, Bodger wrote:
    On 9/4/2023 2:21 PM, Jim the Geordie wrote:

    Forgive me if I have the facts wrong but basically my old Samsung mobile
    is Android 4 (WCDMA/GSM if that means something to you) and gets better
    reception than my current Android 11 (LTE/3G/2G auto connect) in the
    same place on the same network.
    Is that to do with the aerial?
    Is there anything I can do about it beyond changing my phone?


    I would think that the hardware would make more difference than the
    Android version.

    It is a clue on the year of manufacture.

    That phone has to be quite old, so it can not receive the new bands.

    --
    Cheers,
    Carlos E.R.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Alan@21:1/5 to VanguardLH on Tue Sep 5 02:03:38 2023
    On 2023-09-04 22:55, VanguardLH wrote:
    Jim the Geordie <jim@jimXscott.co.uk> wrote:

    Forgive me if I have the facts wrong but basically my old Samsung mobile
    is Android 4 (WCDMA/GSM if that means something to you) and gets better
    reception than my current Android 11 (LTE/3G/2G auto connect) in the
    same place on the same network.
    Is that to do with the aerial?
    Is there anything I can do about it beyond changing my phone?

    Signal bars in the display are NOT how you measure signal strength. The
    bars are just an indicator, like a wind sock that points straight out
    tells you there is enough wind to raise the sock, but not how fast is
    the wind.

    You might want to look into windsocks a bit more before you use that
    analogy again:

    'Alternating stripes of high-visibility orange and white were initially
    used to help to estimate wind speed, with each stripe adding 3 knots
    (5.6 km/h; 3.5 mph) to the estimated speed. However, some circular frame mountings cause windsocks to be held open at one end, indicating a
    velocity of 3 knots even when stripes are not present. A fully extended windsock suggests a wind speed of 15 knots (28 km/h; 17 mph) or greater.[2]'

    <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Windsock>

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From VanguardLH@21:1/5 to Neil on Tue Sep 5 00:56:48 2023
    Neil <neil@myschool.edu> wrote:

    Personally, I'd never in a million years buy an app that I didn't test
    out the freeware alternatives first - since usually you don't need
    any money.

    I used the free edition of Network Cell Info Lite for about 2 years. At
    one point, I inventoried all the free apps that I had used for more than
    a year, and determined how often I used it. If the app was useful, I recompense the author. I grew up in the heyday of shareware, and if I continued using the software then I paid for it. If the cost was a nip
    instead of a deep bite, I'd reward the software author. I won't pay for
    an app to get rid of just ads. Paying means I get more features, not
    eliminate nuisances. Shareware has waned, but some software is
    donationware. Free editions are often lures to pay, but there must be bang-for-the-buck on additional features -- that I will actually use.

    For example, I've still not paid for CCleaner after using it for many
    years, because its payware version has no features that I want. I'd get nothing in return for my money.

    Android apps that I first got free, kept for over a year, used many
    times, and found highly useful, and then paid for are:
    - M2Catlyst's Network Cell Info ($2.14).
    - MobiWia's GPS Status & Toolbox ($2.14).
    - Hawkins' Torque Pro ($5.32). Used with a ODB2 dongle to view and
    analyze car problems).
    - Talent App's ParKing ($6.98). Alas, its owner abandoned the app, and
    it has a couple bugs, the author hasn't replied to anyone since 2021,
    but it was useful back then, and mostly still is).

    I have a bunch of free apps that I won't pay for, or don't even have a
    premium version to buy. In fact, some apps won't let you buy a premium
    version just to get rid of ads, because the author makes more revenue
    due to the ads then trying to get a remainder slice of the billing
    through the Google Play Store.

    I don't install many apps on my smartphone. I'm not an app-aholic.
    Every couple of years I review the apps on my phone to decide if I'd get something more that I actually want by buying the premium version. Some
    are truly free apps (which means no ads since that is a nuisance cost),
    so no way to reward their authors. Some have payware versions, but if
    all paying does is get rid of ads then I don't pay, and more likely will remove. Hard to find free apps that aren't also adware. Although it's
    been over a couple years since my last review of apps to decide if I
    wanted to pay for any of them, I've done a recent review, and there
    aren't any more that have a premium version that I want, or don't have a premium version at all.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Neil@21:1/5 to VanguardLH on Tue Sep 5 03:59:36 2023
    On 9/5/2023 1:56 AM, VanguardLH wrote:
    If the app was useful, I recompense the author.

    It's interesting people think it's about the money, when the money is the
    least of the penalties for paying ten bucks for free software.

    Buying it gives a healthy cut to Google who doesn't deserve 30%.

    You can usually donate to the author instead of buying the software.
    That way the author gets 100% instead of only 70% of your money.

    In addition you must be a smarter man than I am to be able to buy software
    off the Google Play Store without using a credit card on your account.

    The tremendous loss of privacy from credit cards is how they keep tabs on people and, anecdotally, it's how they catch criminals (like the National
    Guard IT guy who opened up the social media account he posted the documents
    to using his credit card and home address).

    How do you manage to pay for apps without surrendering your privacy?

    Lastly, once you put a credit card on an Android phone, it instantly
    becomes dangerous - like a radioactive barrel of nuclear plant waste.

    Forevermore, for the rest of the life of that phone (and for the rest of
    the life of the backups of that phone), you now have to worry about safeguarding that phone from being lost, stolen or hacked.

    How did you manage to pay for apps to the tune of only a few bucks and yet
    you lost the convenience and privacy of having a phone that you wouldn't
    care if you lost it or if it was stolen.

    You lost thousands (or whatever) worth of worries for ten dollars of app. Unless you are smarter than that and you found a (secret?) way around it?

    It's not about the money - people who think it is about the money don't understand it's not about the ten bucks - it's about the loss of privacy.

    1. Google gets 30% and the developer loses that 30%
    2. Your credit card is a huge loss of privacy on a phone
    3. Putting a credit card on a phone is like making the phone radioactive

    You have to safeguard it forever - just because of that one simple mistake.
    --
    regards,
    Neil

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Jim the Geordie@21:1/5 to All on Tue Sep 5 10:31:37 2023
    In article <klnl1pF8sovU4@mid.individual.net>, robin_listas@es.invalid
    says...

    On 2023-09-04 18:16, Bodger wrote:
    On 9/4/2023 2:21 PM, Jim the Geordie wrote:

    Forgive me if I have the facts wrong but basically my old Samsung mobile >> is Android 4 (WCDMA/GSM if that means something to you) and gets better
    reception than my current Android 11 (LTE/3G/2G auto connect) in the
    same place on the same network.
    Is that to do with the aerial?
    Is there anything I can do about it beyond changing my phone?


    I would think that the hardware would make more difference than the
    Android version.

    It is a clue on the year of manufacture.

    That phone has to be quite old, so it can not receive the new bands.

    My point is that the old phone works better then the newer one!

    --
    Jim the Geordie

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From VanguardLH@21:1/5 to Neil on Tue Sep 5 04:45:13 2023
    Neil <neil@myschool.edu> wrote:

    On 9/5/2023 1:56 AM, VanguardLH wrote:
    If the app was useful, I recompense the author.

    It's interesting people think it's about the money, when the money is the least of the penalties for paying ten bucks for free software.

    Buying it gives a healthy cut to Google who doesn't deserve 30%.

    You can usually donate to the author instead of buying the software.
    That way the author gets 100% instead of only 70% of your money.

    In addition you must be a smarter man than I am to be able to buy software off the Google Play Store without using a credit card on your account.

    The tremendous loss of privacy from credit cards is how they keep tabs on people and, anecdotally, it's how they catch criminals (like the National Guard IT guy who opened up the social media account he posted the documents to using his credit card and home address).

    How do you manage to pay for apps without surrendering your privacy?

    Lastly, once you put a credit card on an Android phone, it instantly
    becomes dangerous - like a radioactive barrel of nuclear plant waste.

    Forevermore, for the rest of the life of that phone (and for the rest of
    the life of the backups of that phone), you now have to worry about safeguarding that phone from being lost, stolen or hacked.

    How did you manage to pay for apps to the tune of only a few bucks and yet you lost the convenience and privacy of having a phone that you wouldn't
    care if you lost it or if it was stolen.

    You lost thousands (or whatever) worth of worries for ten dollars of app. Unless you are smarter than that and you found a (secret?) way around it?

    It's not about the money - people who think it is about the money don't understand it's not about the ten bucks - it's about the loss of privacy.

    1. Google gets 30% and the developer loses that 30%
    2. Your credit card is a huge loss of privacy on a phone
    3. Putting a credit card on a phone is like making the phone radioactive

    You have to safeguard it forever - just because of that one simple mistake.

    I'm not getting into the privacy debate. You have folks so scared of
    using credit cards online, but think nothing of handing them over to a
    table jockey at a restaurant.

    We've already stepped away from the main thread, and this steps away
    again, so the discussion gets way off-topic.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Jim the Geordie@21:1/5 to All on Tue Sep 5 10:35:00 2023
    In article <1tnx805dcomkk$.dlg@v.nguard.lh>, V@nguard.LH says...

    Jim the Geordie <jim@jimXscott.co.uk> wrote:

    Forgive me if I have the facts wrong but basically my old Samsung mobile
    is Android 4 (WCDMA/GSM if that means something to you) and gets better reception than my current Android 11 (LTE/3G/2G auto connect) in the
    same place on the same network.
    Is that to do with the aerial?
    Is there anything I can do about it beyond changing my phone?

    Signal bars in the display are NOT how you measure signal strength. The
    bars are just an indicator, like a wind sock that points straight out
    tells you there is enough wind to raise the sock, but not how fast is
    the wind.

    Go into Android settings -> General -> About phone -> Network (your
    navpath may vary from mine). Look at the dBm measurement to compare
    signal strength on the 2 phones.

    You can also use an app to give your cellular info, like Network Cell
    Info. There are lite and full versions. I paid the $2 to get the full version.

    https://play.google.com/store/search?q=network+cell+info+lite&c=apps https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.wilysis.cellinfo

    You'll get far more info than you'll likely understand for a long time.
    One feature, map, will show to which cell tower the phone is connected. Possibly one phone connects to a different cell tower than the other
    phone, and distance causes signal attentuation as do obstructions
    between cell tower to phone. Both phones on the same cellular carrier
    does not mean both phones connect to the same cell tower.

    All very interesting, but no help really.
    I'll just have to use the older phone at this one location.

    --
    Jim the Geordie

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From VanguardLH@21:1/5 to Alan on Tue Sep 5 04:46:16 2023
    Alan <nuh-uh@nope.com> wrote:

    On 2023-09-04 22:55, VanguardLH wrote:
    Jim the Geordie <jim@jimXscott.co.uk> wrote:

    Forgive me if I have the facts wrong but basically my old Samsung mobile >>> is Android 4 (WCDMA/GSM if that means something to you) and gets better
    reception than my current Android 11 (LTE/3G/2G auto connect) in the
    same place on the same network.
    Is that to do with the aerial?
    Is there anything I can do about it beyond changing my phone?

    Signal bars in the display are NOT how you measure signal strength. The
    bars are just an indicator, like a wind sock that points straight out
    tells you there is enough wind to raise the sock, but not how fast is
    the wind.

    You might want to look into windsocks a bit more before you use that
    analogy again:

    'Alternating stripes of high-visibility orange and white were initially
    used to help to estimate wind speed, with each stripe adding 3 knots
    (5.6 km/h; 3.5 mph) to the estimated speed. However, some circular frame mountings cause windsocks to be held open at one end, indicating a
    velocity of 3 knots even when stripes are not present. A fully extended windsock suggests a wind speed of 15 knots (28 km/h; 17 mph) or greater.[2]'

    <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Windsock>

    With as much accuracy as bars for signal strength on a phone.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Stefan Ram@21:1/5 to Neil on Tue Sep 5 09:50:50 2023
    Neil <neil@myschool.edu> writes:
    How do you manage to pay for apps without surrendering your privacy?

    Here, you can buy credit cards in several types of stores,
    e.g., for 15 or 50 Euro. They have a multi-digit confirmation
    number printed on them. You can pay the cards in cash.

    These cards are usually designed to pay for a service with a
    particular provider.

    I don't know much about those cards, but I guess you then
    could transfer the number to you creditor and he them might
    be able to gain a monetary benefit from it.

    So, you might be able to pay via that number, and that number
    is not connected to you in an obvious matter.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From VanguardLH@21:1/5 to Jim the Geordie on Tue Sep 5 05:24:44 2023
    Jim the Geordie <jim@jimXscott.co.uk> wrote:

    In article <1tnx805dcomkk$.dlg@v.nguard.lh>, V@nguard.LH says...

    Jim the Geordie <jim@jimXscott.co.uk> wrote:

    Forgive me if I have the facts wrong but basically my old Samsung mobile >>> is Android 4 (WCDMA/GSM if that means something to you) and gets better
    reception than my current Android 11 (LTE/3G/2G auto connect) in the
    same place on the same network.
    Is that to do with the aerial?
    Is there anything I can do about it beyond changing my phone?

    Signal bars in the display are NOT how you measure signal strength. The
    bars are just an indicator, like a wind sock that points straight out
    tells you there is enough wind to raise the sock, but not how fast is
    the wind.

    Go into Android settings -> General -> About phone -> Network (your
    navpath may vary from mine). Look at the dBm measurement to compare
    signal strength on the 2 phones.

    You can also use an app to give your cellular info, like Network Cell
    Info. There are lite and full versions. I paid the $2 to get the full
    version.

    https://play.google.com/store/search?q=network+cell+info+lite&c=apps
    https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.wilysis.cellinfo

    You'll get far more info than you'll likely understand for a long time.
    One feature, map, will show to which cell tower the phone is connected.
    Possibly one phone connects to a different cell tower than the other
    phone, and distance causes signal attentuation as do obstructions
    between cell tower to phone. Both phones on the same cellular carrier
    does not mean both phones connect to the same cell tower.

    All very interesting, but no help really.
    I'll just have to use the older phone at this one location.

    Ah, I see. You started the discussion, but it really wasn't important
    enough to even go into your phone's settings to check signal dBm while
    watching a commercial on TV.

    Someone else mentioned which bands your phones support. You could go to gsmarena.com to hunt down your phone to see which bands each phone
    supports. There are apps that will tell you, too.

    RF density may not be as homogenous as you think. I've seen where
    rocking in a chair or moving just a couple feet can affect signal
    strength. How exact is "same place" when testing your phones?

    What does "better reception" mean? That sound quality is more scratchy,
    there are cutouts, you can't receive or make calls, what? Is it about
    sound quality at your end, or the other person's end in the call?
    Perhaps reception to you is about the quality of calls. Reception alone
    means signal strength, and bars won't tell you that, so how do you know reception is worse for one of your phones? There is NO STANDARD on what
    a bar represents for signal strength. Every phone maker chooses
    whatever scale they want. Until you look at the dBm reading while
    connecting in a call, you have no way to know signal strength is weaker
    or stronger for one phone compared to the other phone.

    Some artifacts may be due to enable noise reduction on your phone (often
    a setting in the dialer app). I have a buddy where it makes his voice
    have cutouts, especially when using his phone through his car's head
    unit. Lots of noise in a car. On my phone, there are 2 sound quality
    options: suppression and clarity. Suppression (noise cancelling) is
    used to cutout background noise on my end of a call. Alas, sometimes
    the voice gets suppressed, too, having the other person hear cutouts in
    your voice. Clarity attempts to make the other person's voice sound
    better. On my phone, I disabled both options which reduced the number
    of cutouts from the other person that I'd hear, and the number of
    cutouts in my voice that the other person hears. It's not like these
    options provide you with variable tweaking levels.

    When you say both phones use the same carrier, are they? Do you
    contract with Verizon, AT&T, T-Mobile, or other major carrier? Or do
    you use an MVNO, like Tracfone? With an MVNO (Mobile Virtual Network Operator), like Tracfone, you pay them, but they decide which carrier
    you use. Could be AT&T, Verizon, or some other carrier they decide to
    assign to your SIM. Do you KNOW you are using the same carrier from the
    same cell tower for both phones?

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Neil@21:1/5 to VanguardLH on Tue Sep 5 10:03:49 2023
    On 9/5/2023 5:45 AM, VanguardLH wrote:
    You have to safeguard it forever - just because of that one simple mistake.

    I'm not getting into the privacy debate. You have folks so scared of
    using credit cards online, but think nothing of handing them over to a
    table jockey at a restaurant.

    True. But you were defending the pittance you paid for the tools, where I
    was just explaining that there are two sides to that coin, one of which is donating to the developer achieves more than donating 1/3rd to Google, and
    the other is that the instant you put financial information onto a phone,
    it becomes a radioactive waste that has to be guarded lest it get out.

    We've already stepped away from the main thread, and this steps away
    again, so the discussion gets way off-topic.

    True. The discussion is about how to tell if two phones have differing reception, and in order to definitively check, the OP needs the software.

    Without the software - the OP is mostly guessing based only on bars.
    --
    regards,
    Neil

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Alan@21:1/5 to VanguardLH on Tue Sep 5 10:06:47 2023
    On 2023-09-05 05:46, VanguardLH wrote:
    Alan <nuh-uh@nope.com> wrote:

    On 2023-09-04 22:55, VanguardLH wrote:
    Jim the Geordie <jim@jimXscott.co.uk> wrote:

    Forgive me if I have the facts wrong but basically my old Samsung mobile >>>> is Android 4 (WCDMA/GSM if that means something to you) and gets better >>>> reception than my current Android 11 (LTE/3G/2G auto connect) in the
    same place on the same network.
    Is that to do with the aerial?
    Is there anything I can do about it beyond changing my phone?

    Signal bars in the display are NOT how you measure signal strength. The >>> bars are just an indicator, like a wind sock that points straight out
    tells you there is enough wind to raise the sock, but not how fast is
    the wind.

    You might want to look into windsocks a bit more before you use that
    analogy again:

    'Alternating stripes of high-visibility orange and white were initially
    used to help to estimate wind speed, with each stripe adding 3 knots
    (5.6 km/h; 3.5 mph) to the estimated speed. However, some circular frame
    mountings cause windsocks to be held open at one end, indicating a
    velocity of 3 knots even when stripes are not present. A fully extended
    windsock suggests a wind speed of 15 knots (28 km/h; 17 mph) or greater.[2]' >>
    <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Windsock>

    With as much accuracy as bars for signal strength on a phone.

    Why would you imagine that windsocks aren't reasonably accurate?

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Alan@21:1/5 to Neil on Tue Sep 5 10:05:46 2023
    On 2023-09-05 03:59, Neil wrote:
    On 9/5/2023 1:56 AM, VanguardLH wrote:
     If the app was useful, I recompense the author.

    It's interesting people think it's about the money, when the money is the least of the penalties for paying ten bucks for free software.

    Buying it gives a healthy cut to Google who doesn't deserve 30%.

    You can usually donate to the author instead of buying the software.
    That way the author gets 100% instead of only 70% of your money.

    In addition you must be a smarter man than I am to be able to buy
    software off the Google Play Store without using a credit card on your account.

    The tremendous loss of privacy from credit cards is how they keep tabs
    on people and, anecdotally, it's how they catch criminals (like the
    National Guard IT guy who opened up the social media account he posted
    the documents to using his credit card and home address).

    How do you manage to pay for apps without surrendering your privacy?

    Lastly, once you put a credit card on an Android phone, it instantly
    becomes dangerous - like a radioactive barrel of nuclear plant waste.

    Forevermore, for the rest of the life of that phone (and for the rest of
    the life of the backups of that phone), you now have to worry about safeguarding that phone from being lost, stolen or hacked.

    How did you manage to pay for apps to the tune of only a few bucks and
    yet you lost the convenience and privacy of having a phone that you
    wouldn't care if you lost it or if it was stolen.

    You lost thousands (or whatever) worth of worries for ten dollars of app. Unless you are smarter than that and you found a (secret?) way around it?

    It's not about the money - people who think it is about the money don't understand it's not about the ten bucks - it's about the loss of privacy.

    1. Google gets 30% and the developer loses that 30%
    2. Your credit card is a huge loss of privacy on a phone
    3. Putting a credit card on a phone is like making the phone radioactive

    You have to safeguard it forever - just because of that one simple mistake.

    Hi, Arlen!

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Jim the Geordie@21:1/5 to All on Tue Sep 5 15:08:46 2023
    In article <1t1rg47o0b6k9$.dlg@v.nguard.lh>, V@nguard.LH says...

    Jim the Geordie <jim@jimXscott.co.uk> wrote:

    In article <1tnx805dcomkk$.dlg@v.nguard.lh>, V@nguard.LH says...

    Jim the Geordie <jim@jimXscott.co.uk> wrote:

    Forgive me if I have the facts wrong but basically my old Samsung mobile >>> is Android 4 (WCDMA/GSM if that means something to you) and gets better >>> reception than my current Android 11 (LTE/3G/2G auto connect) in the
    same place on the same network.
    Is that to do with the aerial?
    Is there anything I can do about it beyond changing my phone?

    Signal bars in the display are NOT how you measure signal strength. The >> bars are just an indicator, like a wind sock that points straight out
    tells you there is enough wind to raise the sock, but not how fast is
    the wind.

    Go into Android settings -> General -> About phone -> Network (your
    navpath may vary from mine). Look at the dBm measurement to compare
    signal strength on the 2 phones.

    You can also use an app to give your cellular info, like Network Cell
    Info. There are lite and full versions. I paid the $2 to get the full
    version.

    https://play.google.com/store/search?q=network+cell+info+lite&c=apps
    https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.wilysis.cellinfo

    You'll get far more info than you'll likely understand for a long time.
    One feature, map, will show to which cell tower the phone is connected.
    Possibly one phone connects to a different cell tower than the other
    phone, and distance causes signal attentuation as do obstructions
    between cell tower to phone. Both phones on the same cellular carrier
    does not mean both phones connect to the same cell tower.

    All very interesting, but no help really.
    I'll just have to use the older phone at this one location.

    Ah, I see. You started the discussion, but it really wasn't important
    enough to even go into your phone's settings to check signal dBm while watching a commercial on TV.

    Someone else mentioned which bands your phones support. You could go to gsmarena.com to hunt down your phone to see which bands each phone
    supports. There are apps that will tell you, too.

    RF density may not be as homogenous as you think. I've seen where
    rocking in a chair or moving just a couple feet can affect signal

    Sorry I started this.
    I am a bloke with a mobile getting my signal from O2. In a particular
    cafe which to be fair has reinforced concrete roof and brick walls with
    big windows. When I open an app, I (mostly) get a message saying no
    signal (do you want to play a game?)(I don't)
    Mt wife uses my old android Galaxt Ace v4.4 and gets a signal although
    it is slow.
    At this point both phones are sat side by side near a window.
    When I move 10 feet outside (towards the sea ie away from any mast and
    the concrete roof) the signal returns to both.
    I expected better of my newer phone in identical conditions and simply
    wondered if I could do anything about it, beyond eating somewhere else
    and waiting until the end of my contract.

    --
    Jim the Geordie

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Neil@21:1/5 to Stefan Ram on Tue Sep 5 10:10:24 2023
    On 9/5/2023 5:50 AM, Stefan Ram wrote:
    Here, you can buy credit cards in several types of stores,
    e.g., for 15 or 50 Euro. They have a multi-digit confirmation
    number printed on them. You can pay the cards in cash.

    Thank you for suggesting a specific non-identifiable credit card for paying
    for apps, where I was assuming that's what Mr. VanguardLH was using.

    The disadvantage of normal credit cards is that you create radioactive
    waste which has to be guarded whereas with those cash cards, you do not.

    These cards are usually designed to pay for a service with a
    particular provider.

    He didn't say what kind of credit card he was using though, so we don't
    know if he made his phone radioactive or not - but if he's using his own
    credit cards, he has to guard that phone forever to prevent leaks.

    I don't know much about those cards, but I guess you then
    could transfer the number to you creditor and he them might
    be able to gain a monetary benefit from it.

    For that purpose, I'd recommend people donate to the developer rather than
    they buy the app off the Google Play Store because of Google's cut.

    So, you might be able to pay via that number, and that number
    is not connected to you in an obvious matter.

    Given there are plenty of free ad-free apps that are just as good as the payware apps, it's my recommendation that people donate to the developers.

    https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ubnt.usurvey https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.manageengine.wifimonitor https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.etwok.netspotapp
    --
    regards,
    Neil

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Frank Slootweg@21:1/5 to Neil on Tue Sep 5 14:41:27 2023
    Neil <neil@myschool.edu> wrote:
    [...]

    Given there are plenty of free ad-free apps that are just as good as the payware apps, it's my recommendation that people donate to the developers.

    https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vrem.wifianalyzer https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ubnt.usurvey https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.manageengine.wifimonitor https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.etwok.netspotapp

    'Arlen', can you *please* get a clue!? This thread isn't and never has
    been about Wi-Fi, so all these apps you keep harping about are totally irrelevant.

    BTW, you can buy apps in the Play Store without *any* kind of
    creditcard, but please don't let that fact get in the way of your
    paranoia.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Carlos E. R.@21:1/5 to Jim the Geordie on Tue Sep 5 12:55:19 2023
    On 2023-09-05 10:08, Jim the Geordie wrote:
    In article <1t1rg47o0b6k9$.dlg@v.nguard.lh>, V@nguard.LH says...

    Jim the Geordie <jim@jimXscott.co.uk> wrote:

    In article <1tnx805dcomkk$.dlg@v.nguard.lh>, V@nguard.LH says...


    Sorry I started this.
    I am a bloke with a mobile getting my signal from O2. In a particular
    cafe which to be fair has reinforced concrete roof and brick walls with
    big windows. When I open an app, I (mostly) get a message saying no
    signal (do you want to play a game?)(I don't)
    Mt wife uses my old android Galaxt Ace v4.4 and gets a signal although
    it is slow.
    At this point both phones are sat side by side near a window.
    When I move 10 feet outside (towards the sea ie away from any mast and
    the concrete roof) the signal returns to both.
    I expected better of my newer phone in identical conditions and simply wondered if I could do anything about it, beyond eating somewhere else
    and waiting until the end of my contract.

    But the thing is, very possibly they are not identical conditions,
    because very possibly they are using different bands.

    --
    Cheers,
    Carlos E.R.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Jim the Geordie@21:1/5 to All on Tue Sep 5 18:24:57 2023
    In article <klp4rnFj14gU1@mid.individual.net>, robin_listas@es.invalid
    says...

    On 2023-09-05 10:08, Jim the Geordie wrote:
    In article <1t1rg47o0b6k9$.dlg@v.nguard.lh>, V@nguard.LH says...

    Jim the Geordie <jim@jimXscott.co.uk> wrote:

    In article <1tnx805dcomkk$.dlg@v.nguard.lh>, V@nguard.LH says...


    Sorry I started this.
    I am a bloke with a mobile getting my signal from O2. In a particular
    cafe which to be fair has reinforced concrete roof and brick walls with
    big windows. When I open an app, I (mostly) get a message saying no
    signal (do you want to play a game?)(I don't)
    Mt wife uses my old android Galaxt Ace v4.4 and gets a signal although
    it is slow.
    At this point both phones are sat side by side near a window.
    When I move 10 feet outside (towards the sea ie away from any mast and
    the concrete roof) the signal returns to both.
    I expected better of my newer phone in identical conditions and simply wondered if I could do anything about it, beyond eating somewhere else
    and waiting until the end of my contract.

    But the thing is, very possibly they are not identical conditions,
    because very possibly they are using different bands.

    Ah!
    And is that something I can change?

    --
    Jim the Geordie

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Carlos E. R.@21:1/5 to Jim the Geordie on Tue Sep 5 15:09:44 2023
    On 2023-09-05 13:24, Jim the Geordie wrote:
    In article <klp4rnFj14gU1@mid.individual.net>, robin_listas@es.invalid says...

    On 2023-09-05 10:08, Jim the Geordie wrote:
    In article <1t1rg47o0b6k9$.dlg@v.nguard.lh>, V@nguard.LH says...

    Jim the Geordie <jim@jimXscott.co.uk> wrote:

    In article <1tnx805dcomkk$.dlg@v.nguard.lh>, V@nguard.LH says...


    Sorry I started this.
    I am a bloke with a mobile getting my signal from O2. In a particular
    cafe which to be fair has reinforced concrete roof and brick walls with
    big windows. When I open an app, I (mostly) get a message saying no
    signal (do you want to play a game?)(I don't)
    Mt wife uses my old android Galaxt Ace v4.4 and gets a signal although
    it is slow.
    At this point both phones are sat side by side near a window.
    When I move 10 feet outside (towards the sea ie away from any mast and
    the concrete roof) the signal returns to both.
    I expected better of my newer phone in identical conditions and simply
    wondered if I could do anything about it, beyond eating somewhere else
    and waiting until the end of my contract.

    But the thing is, very possibly they are not identical conditions,
    because very possibly they are using different bands.

    Ah!
    And is that something I can change?

    Not likely, no.

    It is just that the telcos have newer technologies which they put on
    newer bands that the old phones don't have. These new frequencies can be
    on new transmitters possibly on different towers, so you can not say the
    phone has bad reception without finding first what exact band is each
    phone operating at, at the same instant.

    For example, a not really old phone of mine lost internet connectivity
    because the telcos decided to drop support for some band, G2 or G3, and
    the phone seems to have a faulty G4.

    Guessing, the newer bands are on higher frequency, which penetrate worse armored concrete buildings.


    --
    Cheers,
    Carlos E.R.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Andy Burns@21:1/5 to Jim the Geordie on Tue Sep 5 20:36:46 2023
    Jim the Geordie wrote:

    robin_listas says...

    But the thing is, very possibly they are not identical conditions,
    because very possibly they are using different bands.

    Ah!
    And is that something I can change?

    Well you *could* reduce the bands available to the newer phone to only
    those available to the older one (i.e. turn your 4G phone into a 2.5G phone)

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Andy Burns@21:1/5 to Brian Gregory on Tue Sep 5 20:52:00 2023
    Brian Gregory wrote:

    If you don't require internet you could perhaps see if you can disable
    4G on the new phone in settings.

    Jim could try this as an experiment on the newer phone.

    go into your dialler and "call"
    *#*#4636#*#*

    you should arrive at a testing menu,
    pick phone information

    before doing anything else, take a careful note of what it says
    under "set preferred network type", maybe even take a photo of the
    screen just to be sure.

    then change it to "GSM/WCDMA preferred"
    your new phone is now limited to the same bands as your old phone

    See if it makes better phone calls like that.

    Put the setting back to what it originally was, or the new phone will
    drop to dire mobile data speeds.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Brian Gregory@21:1/5 to Jim the Geordie on Tue Sep 5 20:39:42 2023
    On 05/09/2023 18:24, Jim the Geordie wrote:
    In article <klp4rnFj14gU1@mid.individual.net>, robin_listas@es.invalid says...

    On 2023-09-05 10:08, Jim the Geordie wrote:
    But the thing is, very possibly they are not identical conditions,
    because very possibly they are using different bands.

    Ah!
    And is that something I can change?


    The old phone is GSM and WCDMA. As far as I can see, in the UK That
    equates to a restricted version of 3G and 2G.

    The new phone does 4G (among other things) so it probably prefers to
    connect to 4G if it can, and except in some densely populated areas, 4G
    signals tend to be weaker.

    If you don't require internet you could perhaps see if you can disable
    4G on the new phone in settings.

    --
    Brian Gregory (in England).

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Carlos E. R.@21:1/5 to Jim the Geordie on Tue Sep 5 16:10:23 2023
    On 2023-09-05 05:31, Jim the Geordie wrote:
    In article <klnl1pF8sovU4@mid.individual.net>, robin_listas@es.invalid says...

    On 2023-09-04 18:16, Bodger wrote:
    On 9/4/2023 2:21 PM, Jim the Geordie wrote:

    Forgive me if I have the facts wrong but basically my old Samsung mobile >>>> is Android 4 (WCDMA/GSM if that means something to you) and gets better >>>> reception than my current Android 11 (LTE/3G/2G auto connect) in the
    same place on the same network.
    Is that to do with the aerial?
    Is there anything I can do about it beyond changing my phone?


    I would think that the hardware would make more difference than the
    Android version.

    It is a clue on the year of manufacture.

    That phone has to be quite old, so it can not receive the new bands.

    My point is that the old phone works better then the newer one!

    Not necessarily, because you don't know what band is each phone actually
    using.

    Using different bands also means that each phone may be connecting to
    different towers, which may be at different distances and with different powers.

    --
    Cheers,
    Carlos E.R.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Andy Burns@21:1/5 to Jim the Geordie on Tue Sep 5 21:00:29 2023
    Jim the Geordie wrote:

    I am a bloke with a mobile getting my signal from O2.
    Mt wife uses my old android Galaxt Ace v4.4

    Is she also on O2, or another network?

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From VanguardLH@21:1/5 to Neil on Tue Sep 5 16:42:04 2023
    Neil <neil@myschool.edu> wrote:

    the other is that the instant you put financial information onto a phone,
    it becomes a radioactive waste that has to be guarded lest it get out.

    Actually, the credit card is not on the phone, but is recorded for the transaction in the account. Someone stealing my phone is not getting my
    credit card info. Besides the auto-lockout, I always lock my phone when
    done using it, and can remotely reset it, too.

    I do like the "radioactive waste" description, though, for other shit
    that resides on the phone.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From VanguardLH@21:1/5 to Alan on Tue Sep 5 17:00:19 2023
    Alan <nuh-uh@nope.com> wrote:

    On 2023-09-05 05:46, VanguardLH wrote:
    Alan <nuh-uh@nope.com> wrote:

    On 2023-09-04 22:55, VanguardLH wrote:
    Jim the Geordie <jim@jimXscott.co.uk> wrote:

    Forgive me if I have the facts wrong but basically my old Samsung mobile >>>>> is Android 4 (WCDMA/GSM if that means something to you) and gets better >>>>> reception than my current Android 11 (LTE/3G/2G auto connect) in the >>>>> same place on the same network.
    Is that to do with the aerial?
    Is there anything I can do about it beyond changing my phone?

    Signal bars in the display are NOT how you measure signal strength. The >>>> bars are just an indicator, like a wind sock that points straight out
    tells you there is enough wind to raise the sock, but not how fast is
    the wind.

    You might want to look into windsocks a bit more before you use that
    analogy again:

    'Alternating stripes of high-visibility orange and white were initially
    used to help to estimate wind speed, with each stripe adding 3 knots
    (5.6 km/h; 3.5 mph) to the estimated speed. However, some circular frame >>> mountings cause windsocks to be held open at one end, indicating a
    velocity of 3 knots even when stripes are not present. A fully extended
    windsock suggests a wind speed of 15 knots (28 km/h; 17 mph) or greater.[2]'

    <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Windsock>

    With as much accuracy as bars for signal strength on a phone.

    Why would you imagine that windsocks aren't reasonably accurate?

    Windsock are basic indicators. They are designed where the weight of
    the material and diameter will reflect a granularity of 3 knot (3.5 mph) increments, but at full point only indicate 15 knots, or higher, but not
    how mugh higher. I certainly would not use a windsock to compensate for
    a long-range shot at the range, especially since the windsock is not the target. If 3.5 mph increments are accurate to you, then my analogy
    fails. To me, increments of 3.5 mph is not very accurate. Is it 0 mph,
    3.5 mph, 7 mph, or something between, and how do I interpret a partial
    stripe extension on the windsock? If I go by only full stripes on a
    windsock, I won't know if the wind is 3.5 mph or 7 mph. For landing a
    plane, yeah, accurate enough. For placing a long-range shot, nope.

    Does the FAA, or other gov't agency, enforce the accuracy of windsocks?
    There's de facto standards, and then there are real ones. How do you
    know a windsock meets FAA regulations on indicated wind speed? Some
    windsocks use a metal frame that holds open the windsock, so it
    indicates a speed of 3 knots even when there is no wind. Is the
    windsock optimally positioned for where knowing the wind speed is
    critical? How about obstructions, like building or trees?

    At airports, ATC (Air Traffic Control) will use a weather station to
    determine wind speed, with sensors at various locations, not just one or
    a couple. Why would they spend the much higher money on weather
    stations if a windsock did it all?

    Windsocks can be useful. So can bars on a phone for signal strenght.
    The OP said one phone has less signal strength than another phone, but
    never mentions by how many bars different. He was told how to determine
    the dBm for signal strength on his phones. Instead of using bars
    (windsocks), he can find the actual value.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From VanguardLH@21:1/5 to Jim the Geordie on Tue Sep 5 17:11:19 2023
    Jim the Geordie <jim@jimXscott.co.uk> wrote:

    In article <1t1rg47o0b6k9$.dlg@v.nguard.lh>, V@nguard.LH says...

    Jim the Geordie <jim@jimXscott.co.uk> wrote:

    In article <1tnx805dcomkk$.dlg@v.nguard.lh>, V@nguard.LH says...

    Jim the Geordie <jim@jimXscott.co.uk> wrote:

    Forgive me if I have the facts wrong but basically my old Samsung mobile >>>>> is Android 4 (WCDMA/GSM if that means something to you) and gets better >>>>> reception than my current Android 11 (LTE/3G/2G auto connect) in the >>>>> same place on the same network.
    Is that to do with the aerial?
    Is there anything I can do about it beyond changing my phone?

    Signal bars in the display are NOT how you measure signal strength. The >>>> bars are just an indicator, like a wind sock that points straight out
    tells you there is enough wind to raise the sock, but not how fast is
    the wind.

    Go into Android settings -> General -> About phone -> Network (your
    navpath may vary from mine). Look at the dBm measurement to compare
    signal strength on the 2 phones.

    You can also use an app to give your cellular info, like Network Cell
    Info. There are lite and full versions. I paid the $2 to get the full >>>> version.

    https://play.google.com/store/search?q=network+cell+info+lite&c=apps
    https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.wilysis.cellinfo

    You'll get far more info than you'll likely understand for a long time. >>>> One feature, map, will show to which cell tower the phone is connected. >>>> Possibly one phone connects to a different cell tower than the other
    phone, and distance causes signal attentuation as do obstructions
    between cell tower to phone. Both phones on the same cellular carrier >>>> does not mean both phones connect to the same cell tower.

    All very interesting, but no help really.
    I'll just have to use the older phone at this one location.

    Ah, I see. You started the discussion, but it really wasn't important
    enough to even go into your phone's settings to check signal dBm while
    watching a commercial on TV.

    Someone else mentioned which bands your phones support. You could go to
    gsmarena.com to hunt down your phone to see which bands each phone
    supports. There are apps that will tell you, too.

    RF density may not be as homogenous as you think. I've seen where
    rocking in a chair or moving just a couple feet can affect signal

    Sorry I started this.
    I am a bloke with a mobile getting my signal from O2. In a particular
    cafe which to be fair has reinforced concrete roof and brick walls with
    big windows. When I open an app, I (mostly) get a message saying no
    signal (do you want to play a game?)(I don't)
    Mt wife uses my old android Galaxt Ace v4.4 and gets a signal although
    it is slow.
    At this point both phones are sat side by side near a window.
    When I move 10 feet outside (towards the sea ie away from any mast and
    the concrete roof) the signal returns to both.
    I expected better of my newer phone in identical conditions and simply wondered if I could do anything about it, beyond eating somewhere else
    and waiting until the end of my contract.

    You might be connecting to a repeater or microcell inside the business
    instead of getting a signal through a window on one side of the
    building. The Network Cell app will show you to where you are
    connected. Repeaters often have a limited number of bands, and may not
    be equally strong on every one that both your phones support.

    But, yes, with a new phone, I'd expect it to get a signal as well, or
    better, than an [very] old phone. But I'd try to investigate just from
    where each phone was connected to make sure all externals were equal.

    As others mentioned, you might be close to a tower that better supports
    the bands for the old phones, and the other phone picks a tower farther
    away for the bands it uses.

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  • From Jim the Geordie@21:1/5 to All on Tue Sep 5 23:49:52 2023
    In article <klpfmsFk78bU4@mid.individual.net>, usenet@andyburns.uk
    says...

    Jim the Geordie wrote:

    I am a bloke with a mobile getting my signal from O2.
    Mt wife uses my old android Galaxt Ace v4.4

    Is she also on O2, or another network?

    Same

    --
    Jim the Geordie

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  • From Wally J@21:1/5 to VanguardLH on Tue Sep 5 22:43:54 2023
    VanguardLH <V@nguard.LH> wrote

    Besides the auto-lockout, I always lock my phone when
    done using it, and can remotely reset it, too.

    It's a philosophical discussion where the privacy advocates would say that
    your phone is likely to be lost and/or stolen so you should not need to put
    a lock on it because you should know enough ahead of time not to put confidential information on it in any way, manner, shape or form.

    My phones have never had a lockout (the screenblank is all they have).
    It's very convenient.

    You have to weigh the luxury of not having to deal with locks.
    Against the luxury of being able to pay someone from your phone.

    If someone steals my phone - all they get are my apps (and any recent
    photo's I've taken that haven't yet been moved to the NAS drive at home).

    The other philosophy is to use the phone as a banking system.
    That requires locks.

    Locks are not convenient.
    And they're not foolproof.

    Not putting anything confidential on the phone _is_ foolproof.
    And convenient.

    The difference is the philosophy of how much you value convenience versus
    how much you value the ability to be able to pay people from your phone.

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