• How to use Liftmaster garage door IR safety sensors for other uses?

    From eeewoz50@gmail.com@21:1/5 to Bob F on Fri Jan 15 19:05:35 2016
    On Monday, June 25, 2012 at 5:37:06 PM UTC-4, Bob F wrote:
    I picked up a couple pairs of these Liftmaster 41A5034 garage door safety sensors, which I thought I might be able to use for other sensing on my homebrew
    home control system. Does anyone know what voltage/current the sender needs, and
    what connections the 2 wire detector needs and how it signals. They both have
    white 2 conductor wire with a black line on one of the conductors.

    The way that the sensors work might be this: The transmit module power leads and the sensor power leads are connected in parallel. The transmit module pulses on at a fixed rate. The detector module shorts out the power leads whenever it detects a light
    pulse from the LED module. The control unit watches for pulses on the power leads. No pulses means the light path is blocked.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From eeewoz50@gmail.com@21:1/5 to eeew...@gmail.com on Fri Jan 15 19:08:12 2016
    On Friday, January 15, 2016 at 10:05:38 PM UTC-5, eeew...@gmail.com wrote:
    On Monday, June 25, 2012 at 5:37:06 PM UTC-4, Bob F wrote:
    I picked up a couple pairs of these Liftmaster 41A5034 garage door safety sensors, which I thought I might be able to use for other sensing on my homebrew
    home control system. Does anyone know what voltage/current the sender needs, and
    what connections the 2 wire detector needs and how it signals. They both have
    white 2 conductor wire with a black line on one of the conductors.

    The way that the sensors work might be this: The transmit module power leads and the sensor power leads are connected in parallel. The transmit module pulses on at a fixed rate. The detector module shorts out the power leads whenever it detects a
    light pulse from the LED module. The control unit watches for pulses on the power leads. No pulses means the light path is blocked.

    Each module can have some capacitance that is diode coupled from the power leads to power the module while the power leads are shorted.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From josephromero14@gmail.com@21:1/5 to All on Wed Feb 22 20:09:19 2017
    With the devices hooked up, an oscilloscope was used to see what was going on. With the light blocked between the transmitter and receiver, the white/black wire is 6VDC above the white wire. When not blocked, a periodic signal is observed, where the
    white/black wire is 6V above the white wire for about 5.5 ms, then falls close to 0V for about 0.5 ms. This suggests that the opener is supplying 6V through a resistor -- the receiver is "pulling" the voltage to (near) 0V briefly and periodically. One
    cannot expect it to pull too hard, so a resistor must be present.
    oscilloscope picture The devices were removed from the opener. With a DC voltmeter across the terminals on the opener, the voltage was measured while resistors with gradually decreasing values were put across the terminals. Since the small boxes both
    have lit LED's when operating, the internal equivalent resistance can't much more than about 1k for a 6V source, so that was the starting value for the external resistors. A significant drop in voltage (though less than by 1/2) was noted for a couple
    hundred ohms across the terminals. That means that the Thevenin equivalent resistance is less than about a couple hundred ohms.
    A 6V power supply was wired through a 150 ohm resistor to the two boxes. Plus to the white/black wire, 0V (gnd) to the white wire. The signal was observed to be virtually identical to what was observed from the opener, except the maximum was closer to 5V
    rather than 6V. It might be that a smaller resistor is expected or that the circuit is not linear (hence, Thevenin's theorem is not applicable). But it works, anyway.
    photo of circuit To make a completed electric eye for use without the opener, a small circuit board was used which included a 6V regulator (7806) and a 555 (low-power) wired as a "missing pulse detector." The circuitry for the latter can be found on the
    555 data sheet, and is easily found with an internet search. It has been copied and recopied by many. Referring to that diagram, I used a 2N3906 PNP transistor, and a 0.1 uF capacitor and a 75k resistor for the timing. The power was supplied through a
    surplus wall cube (labeled 9VDC, 200 mA). The regulated 6V powers the 555 directly, and the white/black wire to the remote boxes through a series resistor (I ended up using 150 ohms for that though a somewhat smaller value may work better). I put in two
    LEDs. One just shows that the power is on, the other comes on when the beam is broken. More LEDs is better, right?
    Pin 3 of the 555 goes low when the light beam is broken, and is high otherwise. So far it is just wired to light an LED. I am not sure what I might use the electric eye for as of yet. Perhaps something to do with trick or treaters?
    Note that in the process of testing, I tried various power supply voltages. The frequency of the pulses does depend on the voltage. A 5V source still seems to work, though the frequency is not as steady

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From josephromero14@gmail.com@21:1/5 to All on Wed Feb 22 20:08:36 2017
    With the devices hooked up, an oscilloscope was used to see what was going on. With the light blocked between the transmitter and receiver, the white/black wire is 6VDC above the white wire. When not blocked, a periodic signal is observed, where the
    white/black wire is 6V above the white wire for about 5.5 ms, then falls close to 0V for about 0.5 ms. This suggests that the opener is supplying 6V through a resistor -- the receiver is "pulling" the voltage to (near) 0V briefly and periodically. One
    cannot expect it to pull too hard, so a resistor must be present.
    oscilloscope picture The devices were removed from the opener. With a DC voltmeter across the terminals on the opener, the voltage was measured while resistors with gradually decreasing values were put across the terminals. Since the small boxes both
    have lit LED's when operating, the internal equivalent resistance can't much more than about 1k for a 6V source, so that was the starting value for the external resistors. A significant drop in voltage (though less than by 1/2) was noted for a couple
    hundred ohms across the terminals. That means that the Thevenin equivalent resistance is less than about a couple hundred ohms.
    A 6V power supply was wired through a 150 ohm resistor to the two boxes. Plus to the white/black wire, 0V (gnd) to the white wire. The signal was observed to be virtually identical to what was observed from the opener, except the maximum was closer to 5V
    rather than 6V. It might be that a smaller resistor is expected or that the circuit is not linear (hence, Thevenin's theorem is not applicable). But it works, anyway.
    photo of circuit To make a completed electric eye for use without the opener, a small circuit board was used which included a 6V regulator (7806) and a 555 (low-power) wired as a "missing pulse detector." The circuitry for the latter can be found on the
    555 data sheet, and is easily found with an internet search. It has been copied and recopied by many. Referring to that diagram, I used a 2N3906 PNP transistor, and a 0.1 uF capacitor and a 75k resistor for the timing. The power was supplied through a
    surplus wall cube (labeled 9VDC, 200 mA). The regulated 6V powers the 555 directly, and the white/black wire to the remote boxes through a series resistor (I ended up using 150 ohms for that though a somewhat smaller value may work better). I put in two
    LEDs. One just shows that the power is on, the other comes on when the beam is broken. More LEDs is better, right?
    Pin 3 of the 555 goes low when the light beam is broken, and is high otherwise. So far it is just wired to light an LED. I am not sure what I might use the electric eye for as of yet. Perhaps something to do with trick or treaters?
    Note that in the process of testing, I tried various power supply voltages. The frequency of the pulses does depend on the voltage. A 5V source still seems to work, though the frequency is not as steady

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Art Todesco@21:1/5 to josephromero14@gmail.com on Thu Feb 23 08:46:00 2017
    On 2/22/2017 11:09 PM, josephromero14@gmail.com wrote:
    With the devices hooked up, an oscilloscope was used to see what was going on. With the light blocked between the transmitter and receiver, the white/black wire is 6VDC above the white wire. When not blocked, a periodic signal is observed, where the
    white/black wire is 6V above the white wire for about 5.5 ms, then falls close to 0V for about 0.5 ms. This suggests that the opener is supplying 6V through a resistor -- the receiver is "pulling" the voltage to (near) 0V briefly and periodically. One
    cannot expect it to pull too hard, so a resistor must be present.
    oscilloscope picture The devices were removed from the opener. With a DC voltmeter across the terminals on the opener, the voltage was measured while resistors with gradually decreasing values were put across the terminals. Since the small boxes both
    have lit LED's when operating, the internal equivalent resistance can't much more than about 1k for a 6V source, so that was the starting value for the external resistors. A significant drop in voltage (though less than by 1/2) was noted for a couple
    hundred ohms across the terminals. That means that the Thevenin equivalent resistance is less than about a couple hundred ohms.
    A 6V power supply was wired through a 150 ohm resistor to the two boxes. Plus to the white/black wire, 0V (gnd) to the white wire. The signal was observed to be virtually identical to what was observed from the opener, except the maximum was closer to
    5V rather than 6V. It might be that a smaller resistor is expected or that the circuit is not linear (hence, Thevenin's theorem is not applicable). But it works, anyway.
    photo of circuit To make a completed electric eye for use without the opener, a small circuit board was used which included a 6V regulator (7806) and a 555 (low-power) wired as a "missing pulse detector." The circuitry for the latter can be found on
    the 555 data sheet, and is easily found with an internet search. It has been copied and recopied by many. Referring to that diagram, I used a 2N3906 PNP transistor, and a 0.1 uF capacitor and a 75k resistor for the timing. The power was supplied through
    a surplus wall cube (labeled 9VDC, 200 mA). The regulated 6V powers the 555 directly, and the white/black wire to the remote boxes through a series resistor (I ended up using 150 ohms for that though a somewhat smaller value may work better). I put in
    two LEDs. One just shows that the power is on, the other comes on when the beam is broken. More LEDs is better, right?
    Pin 3 of the 555 goes low when the light beam is broken, and is high otherwise. So far it is just wired to light an LED. I am not sure what I might use the electric eye for as of yet. Perhaps something to do with trick or treaters?
    Note that in the process of testing, I tried various power supply voltages. The frequency of the pulses does depend on the voltage. A 5V source still seems to work, though the frequency is not as steady

    Fun to see some activity here, even if it is just a few people. For
    Halloween, I used a Seco unit across the road to trigger the mechanical
    stuff, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001LFPB0M/ref=pe_385040_128020140_pd_te_s_gr_ti/175-9736184-1310369
    But it is a bit pricey. They also make a 45 foot unit, which is what I
    use across the road. No need for power on the other side as you only
    need a reflector which looks like a bike reflector.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From navy.vet.1959@gmail.com@21:1/5 to josephr...@gmail.com on Fri Jan 25 23:09:19 2019
    I wonder if they are using this like a switching power supply. By turning it off for 0.5 ms out of every 6 ms with a 6V peak, the average voltage that would be generated would be 5.5V.

    On Wednesday, February 22, 2017 at 10:08:38 PM UTC-6, josephr...@gmail.com wrote:
    With the devices hooked up, an oscilloscope was used to see what was going on. With the light blocked between the transmitter and receiver, the white/black wire is 6VDC above the white wire. When not blocked, a periodic signal is observed, where the
    white/black wire is 6V above the white wire for about 5.5 ms, then falls close to 0V for about 0.5 ms. This suggests that the opener is supplying 6V through a resistor -- the receiver is "pulling" the voltage to (near) 0V briefly and periodically. One
    cannot expect it to pull too hard, so a resistor must be present.
    oscilloscope picture The devices were removed from the opener. With a DC voltmeter across the terminals on the opener, the voltage was measured while resistors with gradually decreasing values were put across the terminals. Since the small boxes both
    have lit LED's when operating, the internal equivalent resistance can't much more than about 1k for a 6V source, so that was the starting value for the external resistors. A significant drop in voltage (though less than by 1/2) was noted for a couple
    hundred ohms across the terminals. That means that the Thevenin equivalent resistance is less than about a couple hundred ohms.
    A 6V power supply was wired through a 150 ohm resistor to the two boxes. Plus to the white/black wire, 0V (gnd) to the white wire. The signal was observed to be virtually identical to what was observed from the opener, except the maximum was closer to
    5V rather than 6V. It might be that a smaller resistor is expected or that the circuit is not linear (hence, Thevenin's theorem is not applicable). But it works, anyway.
    photo of circuit To make a completed electric eye for use without the opener, a small circuit board was used which included a 6V regulator (7806) and a 555 (low-power) wired as a "missing pulse detector." The circuitry for the latter can be found on
    the 555 data sheet, and is easily found with an internet search. It has been copied and recopied by many. Referring to that diagram, I used a 2N3906 PNP transistor, and a 0.1 uF capacitor and a 75k resistor for the timing. The power was supplied through
    a surplus wall cube (labeled 9VDC, 200 mA). The regulated 6V powers the 555 directly, and the white/black wire to the remote boxes through a series resistor (I ended up using 150 ohms for that though a somewhat smaller value may work better). I put in
    two LEDs. One just shows that the power is on, the other comes on when the beam is broken. More LEDs is better, right?
    Pin 3 of the 555 goes low when the light beam is broken, and is high otherwise. So far it is just wired to light an LED. I am not sure what I might use the electric eye for as of yet. Perhaps something to do with trick or treaters?
    Note that in the process of testing, I tried various power supply voltages. The frequency of the pulses does depend on the voltage. A 5V source still seems to work, though the frequency is not as steady

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From therealraymaynard@gmail.com@21:1/5 to All on Mon Jul 22 10:18:35 2019
    I know this is an old thread, but I actually measured how the ones on my Liftmaster Pro 1/2HP model work. The main unit outputs 6.2V open circuit which dops to 5.84 when both sensors are connected. The total draw is 15 MA, indicating the internal pullup
    resistor is about 25 Ohms. The transmitter and receiver each draw about 7.5MA. In normal operation the transmitter sends out about .4MS pulses at about 160HZ. When the receiver sees them it pulls the supply lines to about .25V. This develops a signal
    across the main unit internal resistor. The main unit needs to see these pulses in order to enable door closure. The yellow LED on the back of my unit flashes once about every 8 seconds then the sensors are disconnected and when you hook them up and the
    unit senses the signal, it flashes 4 times.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From therealraymaynard@gmail.com@21:1/5 to All on Mon Jul 22 10:46:37 2019
    I know this is an old thread, but I actually measured how the ones on my Liftmaster Pro 1/2HP model work. The main unit outputs 6.2V open circuit which dops to 5.84 when both sensors are connected. The total draw is 15 MA, indicating the internal pullup
    resistor is about 25 Ohms. The transmitter and receiver each draw about 7.5MA. In normal operation the transmitter sends out about .4MS pulses at about 160HZ. When the receiver sees them it pulls the supply lines to about .25V. This develops a signal
    across the main unit internal resistor. The main unit needs to see these pulses in order to enable door closure. The yellow LED on the back of my unit flashes once about every 8 seconds then the sensors are disconnected and when you hook them up and the
    unit senses the signal, it flashes 4 times.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)