• =?UTF-8?Q?OT:_4=e2=80=b2_Bath=2c_dual_40W_T12=2c_120-277V_fluoresce?= =

    From Adam@21:1/5 to All on Mon Dec 13 15:41:48 2021
    Sorry for posting this here but I was not able to post this to
    alt.home.repair newsgroup. Anyone know why ?

    4′ Bath, dual 40W T12, 120-277V fluorescent fixture ballast problem

    Is it better to replace bad ballast or bypass ballast and convert to LED
    tubes (which are more expensive and has safety recall issues) ?

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  • From Mike Easter@21:1/5 to Adam on Mon Dec 13 16:27:45 2021
    Adam wrote:
    Is it better to replace bad ballast or bypass ballast and convert to LED tubes (which are more expensive and has safety recall issues) ?

    The last time I had a fixture ballast problem it was cheaper and easier
    to replace the fixture than to replace the ballast. This was a cheap
    'shop type' fixture which was inside an architectural housing and diffuser.

    Historically - in my past - I've replaced ballasts lots of times. That
    was the conventional way of dealing w/ the problem. This time the cost
    of the ballast vs the cost of the fixture were about the same. Home Depot.

    --
    Mike Easter

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  • From Adam@21:1/5 to Mike Easter on Mon Dec 13 17:22:07 2021
    On 12/13/2021 04:27 PM, Mike Easter wrote:
    Adam wrote:
    Is it better to replace bad ballast or bypass ballast and convert to
    LED tubes (which are more expensive and has safety recall issues) ?

    The last time I had a fixture ballast problem it was cheaper and easier
    to replace the fixture than to replace the ballast. This was a cheap
    'shop type' fixture which was inside an architectural housing and diffuser.

    Historically - in my past - I've replaced ballasts lots of times. That
    was the conventional way of dealing w/ the problem. This time the cost
    of the ballast vs the cost of the fixture were about the same. Home Depot.


    I opened it up enough to get the make / model of the light fixture but
    not enough to get to the make / model of the ballast.

    Light fixture is Lightolier 5483WHU, which apparently has been
    superseded by...

    Lightolier Belmont – 4′ Bath, White 2-Lt 32W T8, 120-277V – 5493WHU https://www.lightoliertracklighting.com/product/lightolier-belmont-4-bath-white-2-lt-32w-t8-120-277v-5493whu/

    The light fixture is based on something like...

    LIGHTOLIER, SW4S232HPFUNVHI 2 Lamp 4' T8 Instant start FLUORESCENT STRIP
    LAMP https://www.ebay.com/itm/LIGHTOLIER-SW4S232HPFUNVHI-2-Lamp-4-T8-Instant-start-FLUORESCENT-STRIP-LAMP/173490229329

    Fluorescent ballasts (~$25) are relatively cheap to replace.
    How to choose a "quality" fluorescent ballast ?

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Adam on Tue Dec 14 04:40:52 2021
    On 12/13/2021 8:22 PM, Adam wrote:
    On 12/13/2021 04:27 PM, Mike Easter wrote:
    Adam wrote:
    Is it better to replace bad ballast or bypass ballast and convert to
    LED tubes (which are more expensive and has safety recall issues) ?

    The last time I had a fixture ballast problem it was cheaper and easier
    to replace the fixture than to replace the ballast.  This was a cheap
    'shop type' fixture which was inside an architectural housing and diffuser. >>
    Historically - in my past - I've replaced ballasts lots of times.  That
    was the conventional way of dealing w/ the problem.  This time the cost
    of the ballast vs the cost of the fixture were about the same.  Home Depot. >>

    I opened it up enough to get the make / model of the light fixture but not enough to get to the make / model of the ballast.

    Light fixture is Lightolier 5483WHU, which apparently has been superseded by...

    Lightolier Belmont – 4′ Bath, White 2-Lt 32W T8, 120-277V – 5493WHU https://www.lightoliertracklighting.com/product/lightolier-belmont-4-bath-white-2-lt-32w-t8-120-277v-5493whu/

    The light fixture is based on something like...

    LIGHTOLIER, SW4S232HPFUNVHI 2 Lamp 4' T8 Instant start FLUORESCENT STRIP LAMP https://www.ebay.com/itm/LIGHTOLIER-SW4S232HPFUNVHI-2-Lamp-4-T8-Instant-start-FLUORESCENT-STRIP-LAMP/173490229329

    Fluorescent ballasts (~$25) are relatively cheap to replace.
    How to choose a "quality" fluorescent ballast ?


    The last item in your examples, that's an electronic ballast (SW4S232HPFUNVHI). Double-clicking the Ebay picture got a close-up, in the middle pane.
    There should be a smoother start to that. There are at least a couple
    kinds of ballasts, and you'd probably want to replace like with like
    so there is no slow or disappointing start behavior. The older ballasts probably have a chunk of iron inside (higher shipping weight) and
    those hum a bit. The ballasts in my basement, are the old kind.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_ballast#Electronic_ballasts

    Fluorescents have a problem with their cold start. The material inside
    the tube, is condensed, and is no longer a "vapor". One way to vaporize
    some material inside the tube, is for the end filaments to heat up. Then,
    a moderate start voltage might be enough to strike a conducting current.
    The other method, is to short out the filament and not use it, then
    apply an extra-high voltage to strike the arc. Then, set up the power
    supply voltage versus load curve, such that as more current is drawn, the voltage output is reduced. In a sense, an electronic ballast is not
    "regulated" like a wall adapter. The voltage is not a constant. The
    voltage varies between "strike" and "burn" values. Strike being the value needed to get a cold tube to conduct, burn being the value which is sufficient if a plasma is already in the tube. You can even PWM the plasma, up to a
    point, before it extinguishes and an electronic ballast has to go back
    to strike voltage to restart it.

    The downside of the power supply behavior, is the correct PSU has to be selected for the load. You would not try to run a seven foot tube, off
    a four foot power supply (ballast might shut off on overcurrent). That's possibly why the Ebay example has a list of tubes that one would support.
    The intent is for the load curve, to match the load type.

    *******

    As for AIOE, Paolo blocks a group to posting, when he receives an "abuse complaint".
    Shutting the group, is so other server administrators don't complain or de-peer him.

    https://news.aioe.org/tools/groupslist/

    The green color indicates it is blocked to posting. Groups stay blocked
    for random periods of time. It could be green in color for a day or a year. Usually, this blockade is the work of a single kook... typically blockage
    is a weekend thing (the kook likes to practice craft on weekend). The funny thing
    is, if you examine the group later, you can hardly notice anyone kooking out in it.
    So if someone is abusing it, it's pretty hard to tell from the normal level
    of noise.

    https://news.aioe.org/tools/groupslist/index.php?id=groupslist&group=alt.home.repair&exclude=4

    For comparison, the coloration for this group is white, indicating R/W is possible (fully working)

    https://news.aioe.org/tools/groupslist/index.php?id=groupslist&group=alt.os.linux.ubuntu&exclude=4

    This is known affectionately as the "banlist" - when you see the message on AIOE,
    it is the group that is banned, not the person. As it's pretty hard to ban people
    on AIOE (lack of reliable header field to filter on). At least one poster was banned based on name, because the individual insisted on signing posts with
    his full name, and so a filter with his name in it was used to block him.
    I don't think anyone explained to him, how to bypass this :-)

    Paul

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  • From philo@21:1/5 to Adam on Tue Dec 14 16:24:21 2021
    On 12/13/21 5:41 PM, Adam wrote:

    Sorry for posting this here but I was not able to post this to alt.home.repair newsgroup.  Anyone know why ?

    4′ Bath, dual 40W T12, 120-277V fluorescent fixture ballast problem

    Is it better to replace bad ballast or bypass ballast and convert to LED tubes (which are more expensive and has safety recall issues) ?



    I converted all here to fluorescent full spectrum lighting. Ballasts had
    to be replaced as well>
    Love them.

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  • From Adrian Caspersz@21:1/5 to Adam on Wed Dec 15 12:39:02 2021
    On 13/12/2021 23:41, Adam wrote:

    Sorry for posting this here but I was not able to post this to alt.home.repair newsgroup.  Anyone know why ?

    4′ Bath, dual 40W T12, 120-277V fluorescent fixture ballast problem

    Is it better to replace bad ballast or bypass ballast and convert to LED tubes (which are more expensive and has safety recall issues) ?

    Interested to know what safety recall issues? US thing?

    --
    Adrian C

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  • From Adam@21:1/5 to Adrian Caspersz on Wed Dec 15 07:07:57 2021
    On 12/15/2021 04:39 AM, Adrian Caspersz wrote:
    On 13/12/2021 23:41, Adam wrote:

    Sorry for posting this here but I was not able to post this to
    alt.home.repair newsgroup. Anyone know why ?

    4′ Bath, dual 40W T12, 120-277V fluorescent fixture ballast problem

    Is it better to replace bad ballast or bypass ballast and convert to
    LED tubes (which are more expensive and has safety recall issues) ?

    Interested to know what safety recall issues? US thing?


    https://www.homedepot.com/c/Product_Recalls

    8/25/2016 Cree LED T8 Lamps ================================================================
    Cree Recalls LED T8 Lamps Due to Burn Hazard; Includes T8 Lamps Provided
    as Replacements in Previous Recall https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2016/cree-recalls-led-t8-lamps


    On a side note, seems like the digital world wants to take over but
    beware of going SOLELY with digital systems.

    Yesterday, I kept getting a busy signal when calling an ACE hardware
    store. At the end of the day, I finally got through but they were
    closing. The guy tells me there was a power outage ALL day.
    Unless businesses have a power generator, it might be wise to
    consider having a backup for digital phone systems.

    Still working on response for GURU Paul's post.

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