Had a power supply die, so I replaced it with a used one I had that I
had marked "good."
It booted to the bios and I just set if for default but it never loaded
the OS. It just returned to the bios.
HD was detected and set for first boot option.
Though I was sure I had a legacy Win10 install, I did try UEFI but still could not get past bios.
Finally a cracked open a new in the box PSU and all worked fine. I
assume there was some low voltage.
Both sup[plies went to a metal scavenger
philo wrote:
Had a power supply die, so I replaced it with a used one I had that I
had marked "good."
It booted to the bios and I just set if for default but it never
loaded the OS. It just returned to the bios.
HD was detected and set for first boot option.
Though I was sure I had a legacy Win10 install, I did try UEFI but
still could not get past bios.
Finally a cracked open a new in the box PSU and all worked fine. I
assume there was some low voltage.
Both sup[plies went to a metal scavenger
You could have tried a memtest floppy.
One of the slightly older single threaded versions.
Then get out your multimeter and checked supply voltages.
I suppose Power_Good was signaling a problem.
I'd probably have the hard drive disconnected while
working on it at this point. To reduce the chances of
damaging it. Disconnect power and data.
Or, you could put a dummy load on the PSU to test it out.
I have a dummy load, but it is "lite" and hardly a test.
It's enough though, to tip over my "weak" PSU, which is
the original Heroichi (HEC) bought for my first PC. It
hasn't blown up, but that supply can only run one 12V
fan before that's too much for it. Not enough power
to run a CPU. That supply is from well before the badcap
era. Haven't thrown it into the chipper yet.
I like about 100W for a dummy load. As higher loads cost
money :-) And my electronics store is gone, so easy access
to their power resistors is now gone too.
Paul
On 9/28/20 2:08 PM, Paul wrote:
philo wrote:
Had a power supply die, so I replaced it with a used one I had that I
had marked "good."
It booted to the bios and I just set if for default but it never
loaded the OS. It just returned to the bios.
HD was detected and set for first boot option.
Though I was sure I had a legacy Win10 install, I did try UEFI but
still could not get past bios.
Finally a cracked open a new in the box PSU and all worked fine. I
assume there was some low voltage.
Both sup[plies went to a metal scavenger
You could have tried a memtest floppy.
One of the slightly older single threaded versions.
Then get out your multimeter and checked supply voltages.
I suppose Power_Good was signaling a problem.
I'd probably have the hard drive disconnected while
working on it at this point. To reduce the chances of
damaging it. Disconnect power and data.
Or, you could put a dummy load on the PSU to test it out.
I have a dummy load, but it is "lite" and hardly a test.
It's enough though, to tip over my "weak" PSU, which is
the original Heroichi (HEC) bought for my first PC. It
hasn't blown up, but that supply can only run one 12V
fan before that's too much for it. Not enough power
to run a CPU. That supply is from well before the badcap
era. Haven't thrown it into the chipper yet.
I like about 100W for a dummy load. As higher loads cost
money :-) And my electronics store is gone, so easy access
to their power resistors is now gone too.
Paul
I tossed it so I would not fool around trying to find the problem.
What I really need to do is a get a 24 pin PSU tester
The 20 pin tester is not a good way to test a 24 pin PSU
philo wrote:
On 9/28/20 2:08 PM, Paul wrote:
philo wrote:
Had a power supply die, so I replaced it with a used one I had that
I had marked "good."
It booted to the bios and I just set if for default but it never
loaded the OS. It just returned to the bios.
HD was detected and set for first boot option.
Though I was sure I had a legacy Win10 install, I did try UEFI but
still could not get past bios.
Finally a cracked open a new in the box PSU and all worked fine. I
assume there was some low voltage.
Both sup[plies went to a metal scavenger
You could have tried a memtest floppy.
One of the slightly older single threaded versions.
Then get out your multimeter and checked supply voltages.
I suppose Power_Good was signaling a problem.
I'd probably have the hard drive disconnected while
working on it at this point. To reduce the chances of
damaging it. Disconnect power and data.
Or, you could put a dummy load on the PSU to test it out.
I have a dummy load, but it is "lite" and hardly a test.
It's enough though, to tip over my "weak" PSU, which is
the original Heroichi (HEC) bought for my first PC. It
hasn't blown up, but that supply can only run one 12V
fan before that's too much for it. Not enough power
to run a CPU. That supply is from well before the badcap
era. Haven't thrown it into the chipper yet.
I like about 100W for a dummy load. As higher loads cost
money :-) And my electronics store is gone, so easy access
to their power resistors is now gone too.
Paul
I tossed it so I would not fool around trying to find the problem.
What I really need to do is a get a 24 pin PSU tester
The 20 pin tester is not a good way to test a 24 pin PSU
The extra four pins on the end, are "ampacity extensions".
No new rails. No curve balls.
The 20 pin tester should have "indicators" for all rails,
like window comparators to check the voltages.
The key wire on the 24 pin, is an extra yellow 12V wire, which
improves the room for current flow for +12V used by PCIe slots.
And this is only an issue if the computer is "filled with NVidia
6600 cards" - those draw around 4.2 amps from +12V at the slot.
And for a pair of those in SLI, that's why you want the 24 pin providing system power. That gives a total room of 12A for current flow for
PCIe slots. Enough for 8.4 amps for a couple 6600 cards. Higher power
cards, generally only draw 2 or 3 amps from the slot, the balance
is heavily drawn from the end-card connectors.
There are no new functions on the 24 pin. All the logic-type
signals are the same. Just a few extra "parallel wires" to carry
current. PSU testers generally don't have current flow
functions - the cheap ones just check voltage level (high or low).
Checking any red wire, is enough to quantify the voltage on a
red wire.
Now, if you're looking for continuity testing ("are all the wires
in the loom connected"), that's a different animal. A rack mount
lab tester probably checks for that. A $20 home tester is unlikely
to care.
And when a home tester presents a "load" to the PSU, it's usually
just on one rail. The 3.3V rail is the one with remote sense (the
little brown wire) and is the one that collects feedback
right at the load. But I don't think that's where they put the
load resistor on the tester :-) It might be on +5V. I've never
owned a consumer-grade PSU tester to know - I use a multimeter
instead.
Paul
On 9/29/20 8:53 PM, Paul wrote:
philo wrote:
I've been using the 20 pin tester simply to weed out 100% dead supplies.
On a good 24 pin supply there is always one LED not lit and thus it
shows an overall failure.
Until recently that has proven good enough.
For peace of mind, next time I place an order to NewEgg, I''l get a 24
pin tester.
Building and repairing very few computers now days...
used to be three a week.
On 9/30/20 8:27 PM, philo wrote:
On 9/29/20 8:53 PM, Paul wrote:
philo wrote:
<snip>
I've been using the 20 pin tester simply to weed out 100% dead supplies.
On a good 24 pin supply there is always one LED not lit and thus it
shows an overall failure.
Until recently that has proven good enough.
For peace of mind, next time I place an order to NewEgg, I''l get a 24
pin tester.
Building and repairing very few computers now days...
used to be three a week.
Had a look at the 24 pin PSU
no -5 volt at all
That is what triggers the 20 pin tester to show fault
philo wrote:
On 9/30/20 8:27 PM, philo wrote:
On 9/29/20 8:53 PM, Paul wrote:
philo wrote:
<snip>
I've been using the 20 pin tester simply to weed out 100% dead supplies. >>>
On a good 24 pin supply there is always one LED not lit and thus it
shows an overall failure.
Until recently that has proven good enough.
For peace of mind, next time I place an order to NewEgg, I''l get a
24 pin tester.
Building and repairing very few computers now days...
used to be three a week.
Had a look at the 24 pin PSU
no -5 volt at all
That is what triggers the 20 pin tester to show fault
I have a cable made up with a 7905 running off -12V
joined to it. This makes a "fake" -5V to "fool" whatever
gets in your way. The adapter currently sits in my Asus P2B-S
from year 2000 or so. (The Asus board measures and complains
about -5V, but nothing on the board uses it. Kooky.)
It's not designed to supply a lot of current - the faking
circuit is just there to make a voltage value, to shut up
complaints.
Paul
On 10/2/20 6:47 PM, Paul wrote:
philo wrote:
On 9/30/20 8:27 PM, philo wrote:
On 9/29/20 8:53 PM, Paul wrote:
philo wrote:
<snip>
I've been using the 20 pin tester simply to weed out 100% dead
supplies.
On a good 24 pin supply there is always one LED not lit and thus it
shows an overall failure.
Until recently that has proven good enough.
For peace of mind, next time I place an order to NewEgg, I''l get a
24 pin tester.
Building and repairing very few computers now days...
used to be three a week.
Had a look at the 24 pin PSU
no -5 volt at all
That is what triggers the 20 pin tester to show fault
I have a cable made up with a 7905 running off -12V
joined to it. This makes a "fake" -5V to "fool" whatever
gets in your way. The adapter currently sits in my Asus P2B-S
from year 2000 or so. (The Asus board measures and complains
about -5V, but nothing on the board uses it. Kooky.)
It's not designed to supply a lot of current - the faking
circuit is just there to make a voltage value, to shut up
complaints.
Paul
Was in my workshop today and finished texting the last two of my power supplies. One would only start the machine intermittently. The other one fine...so I have a total of one spare supply.
I did find a bad cap in the intermittent supply, but since it's an
Antec, did not bother to replace it.
I disassembled it and will use the parts in a junk sculpture. I make a
lot of weird art using junked parts that I've been saving.
philo wrote:
On 10/2/20 6:47 PM, Paul wrote:
phi
I have a cable made up with a 7905 running off -12V
joined to it. This makes a "fake" -5V to "fool" whatever
gets in your way. The adapter currently sits in my Asus P2B-S
from year 2000 or so. (The Asus board measures and complains
about -5V, but nothing on the board uses it. Kooky.)
It's not designed to supply a lot of current - the faking
circuit is just there to make a voltage value, to shut up
complaints.
Paul
Was in my workshop today and finished texting the last two of my power
supplies. One would only start the machine intermittently. The other
one fine...so I have a total of one spare supply.
I did find a bad cap in the intermittent supply, but since it's an
Antec, did not bother to replace it.
I disassembled it and will use the parts in a junk sculpture. I make a
lot of weird art using junked parts that I've been saving.
Antec have inspired a lot of artists in their time.
Lots of "capacitor men" made out of leaking caps :-)
Paul
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